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removing a stuck rotor....

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Gibson486

Gibson486

Lifer
I am trying to remove a rotor that is pretty stuck. i was able to hammer out the passenger side with a 1 lbs mallot, but the driver side will not budge. Anyone have any tricks that they use to remove stubborn rotors?

BTW, I have a Mazda 3, if it matters.
 
Yep, penetrating oil....Deep Creep, PB Blaster, or whatever. Let it soak for a good, long time, then get back at it with the hammer.

Or, heat it. One of those propane torch deals they have at Lowes or Home Depot will do.

Heat it and beat it. It'll come off.
 
To prevent damaging it, beat it near the studs and center hub like you are driving it back ON the car. It will start to loosen up and bounce back at you. Using that method you can employ a drift and a really big hammer without any consequence.
 
skyking said:
To prevent damaging it, beat it near the studs and center hub like you are driving it back ON the car. It will start to loosen up and bounce back at you. Using that method you can employ a drift and a really big hammer without any consequence.
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This
 
All these crazy stuck rotor stories. All my rotors start to fall off the hub, being held only by the caliper, as soon as I take the wheel off 😛
 
exdeath said:
All these crazy stuck rotor stories. All my rotors start to fall off the hub, being held only by the caliper, as soon as I take the wheel off 😛
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Pfft, real men let their rotors soak in salt for five years prior to removal. 😉
 
I am going to replace the rotor.....so I don't care if I break it. If I do the heat method,where do I apply heat? DO I have to worry about applying too much heat?
 
Penetrating lube will give you nothing of benefit here, I swear it must be the most overrated mechanical approach ever.

I don't think you need heat. It may help but try what was mentioned above first.

The worst rotor I have had would not come off with a rubber mallet. However, it would with a hammer. The hammer was no heavier but importantly it was metal. I believe that striking the rotor shot vibrations through where it was connected to hub and started to break apart the rust. Of course the rotor got damaged in the process.
 
I've used a pully puller in the past with great results.

As far as the hammer vs. mallet. The hammer produces a much harder shock of a blow that the mallet is explicitly designed to prevent. Which is why the hammer works in this case.
 
I must admit the ingenuity of the Japanese car builders in regards to my wife's 2002 Mazda MPV van - each front rotor has a threaded hole (10 or 12mm). I don't remember exact size, but you just start threading a bolt there and it pushes the stuck rotor off. Eureka!

Have you checked yours?
 
FYI they often have threaded lugs where you can screw a bolt (of the correct thread/pitch of course!) in and it will pop the rotor off.

Past that, pretty much +1 to what others said - pb blaster and BFH
 
darom said:
I must admit the ingenuity of the Japanese car builders in regards to my wife's 2002 Mazda MPV van - each front rotor has a threaded hole (10 or 12mm). I don't remember exact size, but you just start threading a bolt there and it pushes the stuck rotor off. Eureka!

Have you checked yours?
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I am listening....where is this thread? Is this the threaded hole that is used to hold the whole caliper assembly in its place? I would love to do something like this....my arms are so sore from hammering 3 hours straight. I think I know what you are talking about though......
 
Gibson486 said:
I am listening....where is this thread? Is this the threaded hole that is used to hold the whole caliper assembly in its place? I would love to do something like this....my arms are so sore from hammering 3 hours straight. I think I know what you are talking about though......
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10_03_6.jpg
 
awesome timing for this thread. I'm about to change rotors in the spring when it's not freaking 10 degrees outside. Gathering much needed information!
 
as others have said, penetrating oil plus a steel hammer on the hat will work. period.

i like the bolt method less because you can crack the rotor if you're not careful. i've never damaged one by hitting it with a hammer [in the right place].
 
PB Blaster. It works. If it can do stuck lug nuts, it can do rotor hubs. You just have to give it time to soak do it's think and not expect it to work instantly.
 
exdeath said:
PB Blaster. It works. If it can do stuck lug nuts, it can do rotor hubs. You just have to give it time to soak do it's think and not expect it to work instantly.
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I'm not so particular to brand of oil, but letting it sit overnight is a big help. I'll even oil the crap out of something and drive it the next day to give it a chance to work.
 
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