Removing a Spinning Bolt

thescreensavers

Diamond Member
Aug 3, 2005
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g98KMS8eDBQ

Installed a mod a bit ago, and the bolt never tightened. Got a ebay endoscope Camera and confirmed that the weldnut/nut plate is not broken.

So my Next Step is to get a new bolt and try to carefully remove the old bolt. then run a tap through and try the new bolt.

Whats the best way to remove this bolt?

Edit:

Its a M12x1.25 (17mm socket) bolt
Ebay Camera Used LINK
 
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sgrinavi

Diamond Member
Jul 31, 2007
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How much access do you have from the other side? I've had luck prying with a carpet tack puller while turning the bolt, but it takes space.

A tap's probably not going to do you a whole lot of good since there's nothing there to tap, you're probably going to have to take it apart and replace the nut.
 

PottedMeat

Lifer
Apr 17, 2002
12,363
475
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if it's gonna be tapped out ( next size up ) anyway, i'd just stick a socket on a power drill and let them grind the threads off until the bolt drops out
 

sgrinavi

Diamond Member
Jul 31, 2007
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if it's gonna be tapped out ( next size up ) anyway, i'd just stick a socket on a power drill and let them grind the threads off until the bolt drops out

What happens to all the metal shavings? How much wall is going to be left on that nut when you drill it out?
 

leper84

Senior member
Dec 29, 2011
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Yep... thems is some threads sticking out lol.

See if you can't get a pry bar or a screwdriver to push down (away from the hole) against the head of the bolt while you're trying to take it out.
 

PottedMeat

Lifer
Apr 17, 2002
12,363
475
126
What happens to all the metal shavings? How much wall is going to be left on that nut when you drill it out?

from the video it looks like an empty cavity so either they'll go in there or drop out with the bolt.

the welded nut seems fairly thick, going from 17->18mm looks alright, if not he could hold a 17mm nut with some large tweezers or pliers inside the cavity and that would hold
 

leper84

Senior member
Dec 29, 2011
989
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What happens to all the metal shavings? How much wall is going to be left on that nut when you drill it out?

The shavings don't matter really, the tap will clean out almost all the shavings it cuts and he can just spray the hole out with some brake clean or pb blaster afterwards.

The wall might be an issue depending on what he re-threads with. I would probably see about re-threading with a standard size instead of jumping to the next metric up- as in going from a m10 to a 7/16 instead of a m12.
 

RGUN

Golden Member
Dec 11, 2005
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Trying not to get away from the point of your thread but the video quality looks decent for an ebay find. Can you identify which model you bought?
 

thescreensavers

Diamond Member
Aug 3, 2005
9,916
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How much access do you have from the other side? I've had luck prying with a carpet tack puller while turning the bolt, but it takes space.

A tap's probably not going to do you a whole lot of good since there's nothing there to tap, you're probably going to have to take it apart and replace the nut.

The whole reason for the tap was to "fix up" the threads from driving the bad bolt through it. Only if I can remove the old bolt without ruining the threads terribly. I really do not want to replace the nut and work with what I got. If I have to replace the nut which is worse case, I would just uses a stepper drill and make the "camera hole" big enough to fit an offset wrench in and I would just buy a Bolt Washers and Nut and call it a day.



Yep... thems is some threads sticking out lol.

See if you can't get a pry bar or a screwdriver to push down (away from the hole) against the head of the bolt while you're trying to take it out.

Yep I can do that possibly through the hole I used for the camera, I will try that first but it most probably will not work.

Trying not to get away from the point of your thread but the video quality looks decent for an ebay find. Can you identify which model you bought?

updated the OP with some more info, and linked the camera used
 
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olds

Elite Member
Mar 3, 2000
50,096
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I am unclear on what's happening.

If you are turning the bolt and it is turning but isn't backing out, I would think you could put some vice grips on the head and pull it out.
 

leper84

Senior member
Dec 29, 2011
989
29
86
Yep I can do that possibly through the hole I used for the camera, I will try that first but it most probably will not work.

Not on the end though, on the actual head of the bolt where you would put your socket on so you get better leverage. See if you can jam a pry bar to push down on the head while you're turning it, most of the time that will help it catch if there are a couple remaining threads and pull it out.
 

thescreensavers

Diamond Member
Aug 3, 2005
9,916
2
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I am unclear on what's happening.

If you are turning the bolt and it is turning but isn't backing out, I would think you could put some vice grips on the head and pull it out.

Yep, I actually havent tried vice grips, I dont have any at home Ill get some try that out!

I have gotten a hammer and flat head and tried to get it wedged in, to pry onto but its clamped together enough to where I can't really wedge anything into it.


Not on the end though, on the actual head of the bolt where you would put your socket on so you get better leverage. See if you can jam a pry bar to push down on the head while you're turning it, most of the time that will help it catch if there are a couple remaining threads and pull it out.

I will try the vicegrip idea, hope that works would be so awesome if it does.
 

ino uno soweno

Senior member
Jun 7, 2013
377
0
41
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g98KMS8eDBQ

Installed a mod a bit ago, and the bolt never tightened. Got a ebay endoscope Camera and confirmed that the weldnut/nut plate is not broken.

So my Next Step is to get a new bolt and try to carefully remove the old bolt. then run a tap through and try the new bolt.

Whats the best way to remove this bolt?

Edit:

Its a M12x1.25 (17mm socket) bolt
Ebay Camera Used LINK
One method for pulling out threaded bolts is I use PVA glue to glue the socket to the bolt head, then glue in short extension bar, My ratchet handle has a lock on and off for the bar , so I do not have to glue the ratchet on the bar,


If anyone is wondering how strong PVA wood glue, just do the test for yourself, , PVA a bolt and socket , bar and ratchet together , lock the bolt in a good vice and see if you can pull it apart, but watch your back,,
You should clean the surfaces and prepare the glue, to prepare glue I mean it is a bit runny, so you just pour out an amount, and use a paint scraper to mix it until it is like toothpaste, and easier to work with, ,
Paint grease with 1/8” wide paint brush, on the face behind the bolt, so no glue sticks on,


Glue and locate the socket bar ratchet centre line to the nut, get the wife’s hair drier and cure the PVA, 2 hours, let cool,


You should be able to pull the bolt out enough to catch the thread on the end of the bolt, pretty easy, and start cutting your bolt back out, I would suggest small 1/8 turn cuts, back off each cut, and free it up a little then lean back into the next cut, 1/8 turn, and back off, and so on until maybe 1 ½ turns where it will screw out itself without much pressure pulling on the ratchet, keep a constant pull on the ratchet as you turn the bolt at the start especially , ,


When their out, put them in water for a few hours and the PVA will dissolve and wash off. And you can pull them apart easy,
Please then continue to your next step, sounds good to me, but please remember when you get these situations it sometimes causes the bolt to loosen on its own, I suggest locktite thread lock,
Hope that helps,

:)
 

marvdmartian

Diamond Member
Apr 12, 2002
5,441
27
91
Yep... thems is some threads sticking out lol.

See if you can't get a pry bar or a screwdriver to push down (away from the hole) against the head of the bolt while you're trying to take it out.

Usually the best method I've found. Or vice grips.

From the video, it appears as though the threads are galled. Almost as if it was cross-threaded, or the threads in the hole didn't match the threads of the bolt. D:
 

thescreensavers

Diamond Member
Aug 3, 2005
9,916
2
81
After July 4th weekend my car can see downtime if needed so I will start this next week.

Will update when I can get to it.

Current Plan:

Vice Grips, Pull/Pry and Turn.
Run an M12x1.25 Tap into the hole
Replace with good M12x1.25 bolt
 
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thescreensavers

Diamond Member
Aug 3, 2005
9,916
2
81
Final Update:

So I tried the vice grips Idea, I literally hung off the bolt and turned it didn't budge again. I tried and tried but it still wasnt going anywhere.

So I threw in the white towel and just decided to bring it to my shop. I left it there and borrowed a car for the day. They got it out but they told me it was a tough one. They used my included Tap and bolt, they didn't even open up their own drawer.

Now my car is quite again no more creaking. I also pained the bolt with Black Engine Enamel so it shouldn't rust or stick out like a sore thumb.

It costed me a whopping $45 I should of brought it in earlier.