Removing a kitchen faucet help.... *Round 2* Let's get it on!

[Cuda1447]

Alright, so I'll be the first to admit I'm not really a handyman. Hell, I'm not a handyman at all. But I'm trying.


I purchased a new kitchen faucet and am in the process of trying to remove the old one. I've already flooded my kitchen/living room, but that's another story. Right now I have all water shut off to my house and I have two major problems.


1. I can't get the faucet out. I see how it connects, but I just can't seem to turn anything to get it to loosen. I've attached a picture. I've tried using a basin wrench, as a lot of guides have suggested, but it isn't doing me any good.

2. Prior to flooding the house I cracked a pvc looking pipe that supplied the water to my faucet. It was an accident, but it sent water rushing in all over the place. In any case, I need to repair this piece and don't really know where to begin, again, I've attached a picture.



Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated.

Round 2 begins at bottom of thread.

 

[Homerboy]

PVC for the supply line?
Never seen that before. "round here has to be copper.
Let alone why are there 2 converging into one line?

I'm confused.

 

[Kommander_Kink]

The best way to have done this is to have sawed off the pipe and then added couplings to connect the new sink with the old pipe. Some fittings are so rusted they never come out, also do you have a hand-held torch? They sell them at Home Depot, they are good at getting fittings loose.

 

[highland145]

"round here, cpvc supply is fine.

Can't see what that "collar" is or what it's supposed to do.

The worst case: Unhook the supplies/drain and take the counter off.

Homer, looks like it should have been tee'd under the cabinet but was rigged instead.

 

[Theo Moreau]

PVC for the supply line?
Never seen that before. "round here has to be copper.
Let alone why are there 2 converging into one line?

I'm confused.

^What he said^

 

[Cuda1447]

"round here, cpvc supply is fine.

Can't see what that "collar" is or what it's supposed to do.

The worst case: Unhook the supplies/drain and take the counter off.

Homer, looks like it should have been tee'd under the cabinet but was rigged instead.

Take the counter off?!? Oh geezus. This is getting to be a ridiculous adventure. Honestly, I don't even know how to take the counter off.....

 

[iGas]

You need a basin wrench if the basin can not be remove. And, I don't know of any plumbing code that allows PVC piping for hot potable water supply (might want to look at your local code and replace it with PEX or copper as required).

 

[Drako]

Could you post a picture of the top of the faucet?

 

[iGas]

"round here, cpvc supply is fine.

Can't see what that "collar" is or what it's supposed to do.

The worst case: Unhook the supplies/drain and take the counter off.

Homer, looks like it should have been tee'd under the cabinet but was rigged instead.

My understanding is that cpvc is okay for hot/cold supply tube that connects the faucet to the stop valve.

CPVC is allows for cold only.

Yeah, it looked rigged. However it look like the 3/8" CVPC supply tube & stop valve is supplying water to the faucet. I would like to see what they have done below the cabinet/floor.

 

[Elbryn]

sometimes giving the whole thing a good wack or three loosens it up a bit. could hit it with some wd40 or the like to try to loosen it up. last resort could always use a dremel or angle grinder or something similar to cut the nut off.

 

[highland145]

sometimes giving the whole thing a good wack or three loosens it up a bit. could hit it with some wd40 or the like to try to loosen it up. last resort could always use a dremel or angle grinder or something similar to cut the nut off.

..

 

[OCGuy]

If you keep banging your head against the wall, it could just fall off.

 

[iGas]

sometimes giving the whole thing a good wack or three loosens it up a bit. could hit it with some wd40 or the like to try to loosen it up. last resort could always use a dremel or angle grinder or something similar to cut the nut off.

I'm pretty sure it would be a precarious operation if you try to cut the nut off in a tight place.

There are 2~3 nuts to take off:

Take the supply tube nut off
Take the nut that hold the escutcheon plate in place
May need to take the nut that hold faucet to the counter/basin (may have large washer below the counter/washer).

 

[Cuda1447]

 

[highland145]

My understanding is that cpvc is okay for hot/cold supply tube that connects the faucet to the stop valve.

CPVC is allows for cold only.

Yeah, it looked rigged. However it look like the 3/8" CVPC supply tube & stop valve is supplying water to the faucet. I would like to see what they have done below the cabinet/floor.

Here, for whatever reason, the whole house can be cpvc. From the stop valve to the faucet is 3/8 copper or flex tube. Coming off the water heater, has to stub out 8"(iirc) galvanized then cpvc.

Know what that "collar" is? Is it part of the sink itself? Either way, there are 2 nuts that can be loosened in the pic.

Cuda, that was worst case on the counter. And make sure you're turning them the right way. It's upside down.

 

[Cuda1447]

Maybe those pictures will help a little bit in identifying a way to attack this bastard.

 

[Drako]

You can remove that from the top.

Remove the cap on the faucet handle, then remove the spigot. You should be able to get the base off and there are a couple of nuts to remove.

 

[iGas]

Take the P-Trap off the drain, from the sink tail piece to drain & garberator (may need to take garberator off) to give you working room.

PS. Is there a cheater vent on top of that 3" drain pipe that is sticking up?

 

[Drako]

Take the P-Trap off the drain, from the sink tail piece to drain & garberator (may need to take garberator off) to give you working room.

PS. Is there a cheater vent on top of that 3" drain pipe that is sticking up?

WTF is a garberator .

LOL, had to look that up. Crazy Canucks can't say garbage disposal?

 

[iGas]

Here, for whatever reason, the whole house can be cpvc. From the stop valve to the faucet is 3/8 copper or flex tube. Coming off the water heater, has to stub out 8"(iirc) galvanized then cpvc.

Know what that "collar" is? Is it part of the sink itself? Either way, there are 2 nuts that can be loosened in the pic.

Cuda, that was worst case on the counter. And make sure you're turning them the right way. It's upside down.

Plumbing code in North America (Canada & US) indicated that you must have at least 18" of copper or galvanize pipe that connect to the hot water tank, and are subject to the local jurisdiction.

The collar is an escutcheon plate.

 

[DrPizza]

n/m, I replied late.

 

[iGas]

You can remove that from the top.

Remove the cap on the faucet handle, then remove the spigot. You should be able to get the base off and there are a couple of nuts to remove.

It is possible to remove the faucet from above, but you have to cut the body off the counter/basin.

 

[Drako]

Plumbing code in North America (Canada & US) indicated that you must have at least 18" of copper or galvanize pipe that connect to the hot water tank, and are subject to the local jurisdiction.

The collar is a escutcheon plate.

That bothers me a lot less than the electrical coming out of the bottom of the cabinet. That is certainly not code in most places, as water could run down the conduit.

 

[IronWing]

One thing to consider is that should it be necessary to do the needful, that the sooner you call the plumber, the better off you'll be. The day is getting long of tooth.

 

[Drako]

One thing to consider is that should it be necessary to do the needful, that the sooner you call the plumber, the better off you'll be. The day is getting long of tooth.

LOL, do the needful