Right? I can't call it a rookie mistake either.You gotta stock up before you begin operations...
Right? I can't call it a rookie mistake either.![]()
That washer that you are looking at will come off with a magnet or a set of needlenose pliers.
I couldn't get needlenose pliers in there, they were too big.Then you will find an identical nut underneath.
That nut will come off with the same socket-remember that nut as it is the first one back on.
The torque is a little funky-but basically tighten by hand and back off so that you get .001 to .008 of play-yes that is hard to determine.
Put the washer back on and add the other nut and tighten it good.
Shoot for the .002 to .006 range because as you tighten it it will decrease.
That is normal clearance.
I've always worn sandals.Do your shoes get ruined walking on water?
That nut will come off with the same socket-remember that nut as it is the first one back on.
The torque is a little funky-but basically tighten by hand and back off so that you get .001 to .008 of play-yes that is hard to determine.
Put the washer back on and add the other nut and tighten it good.
Shoot for the .002 to .006 range because as you tighten it it will decrease.
That is normal clearance.
It's going to be impossible to 'eyeball' that clearance and why feeler gauges are sold.
Feeler gauge? I've got over 1,000 brake jobs under my belt and never heard of this. I'm a little out of date tho. Link to a brake job (4x4 or otherwise) showing a feeler gauge checking hub bearing play?
A torque wrench is very important for certain jobs-but I will admit I only use them on cylinderheads, cranks, pistons, and new brake rotors.
I don't think any FSM's show it either.
You do realize when an engineer puts up a 3 sig fig clearance it may be important in some way, right?
Most that do car work are lucky at best with their jerry rigging.
It was this forum that also stated torque wrenches are totally a waste of time in an engine rebuild. I forget the poster, but he was popular.
