• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Removed throttle body. Behind it, there's WATER in my engine?! (PIC)

Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Oil in the TB is common from PCV issues and EGR related issues.

It doesn't have to be worn rings but could certainly be so.
 
Tech_Greek said:
Oil in the TB is common from PCV issues and EGR related issues.

It doesn't have to be worn rings but could certainly be so.
Click to expand...

considering he's dumping fuel into the engine, it actually makes total sense.


If op can just put all new, COLDER plugs back into his engine, try idling it, monitor condition, then unplug certain fuel injectors, perhaps he'll understand what he is dealing with. The whole idea of running on 3 cylinders of thousands of miles is baffling to me that he wouldn't notice.
 
tortillasoup said:
considering he's dumping fuel into the engine, it actually makes total sense.


If op can just put all new, COLDER plugs back into his engine, try idling it, monitor condition, then unplug certain fuel injectors, perhaps he'll understand what he is dealing with. The whole idea of running on 3 cylinders of thousands of miles is baffling to me that he wouldn't notice.
Click to expand...

how do I unplug a fuel injector?
 
tortillasoup said:
a compression test should be able to confirm that. I think you have a better chance of a malfunctioning PCV system than a headgasket issue though neither can be ruled out until you test it.
Click to expand...

NutBucket said:
Hmm. Well, then it's possible that oil is just pooling from the crankcase ventilation system. If there are no other symptoms just clean it out and don't worry about it. If you're really worried you could install an oil catch can (but it's complete overkill for this application).
Click to expand...

I agree with the PCV assessment. Unless you have convincing evidence that the HG can leak oil into the intake tract, which seems HIGHLY unlikely.

tortillasoup said:
considering he's dumping fuel into the engine, it actually makes total sense.


If op can just put all new, COLDER plugs back into his engine, try idling it, monitor condition, then unplug certain fuel injectors, perhaps he'll understand what he is dealing with. The whole idea of running on 3 cylinders of thousands of miles is baffling to me that he wouldn't notice.
Click to expand...

Why would you use colder plugs? I doubt knock is an issue, and hotter plugs will likely stay cleaner if oil is getting in.
 
I would use the OEM heat plugs. You're not gaining much by going either way.

As far as oil in the intake from a blown HG - not happening unless it's a boosted car with a closed recirculating by pass valve.

Another thing to remember is that gas can be seen in the intake if the car runs rich from vacuum under decel. If it's firing three out four it'll be running dumb rich.
 
JCH13 said:
Why would you use colder plugs? I doubt knock is an issue, and hotter plugs will likely stay cleaner if oil is getting in.
Click to expand...

He needs to use colder plugs because Mazda released a bulletin SAYING he needs to use colder plugs, likely because of this breaking off electrode problem.
 
JEDI said:
how do I unplug a fuel injector?
Click to expand...

mazda3tach3ax.jpg


I have no idea if that picture is of your engine bay but if it is, you're in luck cause if you have a turbo or some shit, it's a lot more work to access the injectors.
 
Last edited:
tortillasoup said:
He needs to use colder plugs because Mazda released a bulletin SAYING he needs to use colder plugs, likely because of this breaking off electrode problem.
Click to expand...

a few posts ago I did mention that I used the itr6F colder plugs (as well as 2 other brands), and cyl #4 still ate the ground prongs.
(or did I mention it in the other thread?)
 
Someone mentioned that carbon built up on the cylinders could be damaging your plugs. I think that's worth looking at more seriously.

Did you ever get around to de-carbon-ing your engine? You started all this to clean your TB, but have you tried seafoam or water cleaning the engine itself?
 
JCH13 said:
Someone mentioned that carbon built up on the cylinders could be damaging your plugs. I think that's worth looking at more seriously.

Did you ever get around to de-carbon-ing your engine? You started all this to clean your TB, but have you tried seafoam or water cleaning the engine itself?
Click to expand...

bought the seafoam.

now to figure out where's a vacuum tube I could use?
going to search youtube to see if there's a video on mazda3 and seafoam.

hm.. what if I just put seafoam in my gas tank?
 
Last edited:
NutBucket said:
brake booster is usually recommended.
Click to expand...

JEDI said:
yeah.. need to figure out where that is.
will look at youtube later today
Click to expand...

The brake booster line is the hose that connects... to the brake booster.

This is from an MS3, but I think it will be in about the same location on your car. It will connect to the drum-looking thing that has a brake fluid reservoir attached to it.

DSC00040.jpg
 
If there is a TSB to use colder plugs do so as that's there for a reason.

Brake booster is the best way to get seafoam in.
 
and pour it in slowly or you run the risk of hydrolocking your engine. Pour only 1/2 to 2/3 of the bottle and let it sit for 30min or an hour (the longer the better). Car may have trouble turning on at first. Rev the engine and hope no one in the area calls the fire department 😀
 
I've used seafoam and it will not fix OP's problem as he has at the very least an ignition problem....

Here is what OP needs to do:
1. Get colder plugs, all 4 of them so they all MATCH.
2. Monitor engine performance
3. If one of the plugs breaks off its electrode, go to an even colder plug on THAT cylinder.
4. While doing this testing, monitor for any CELs...
5. If you're getting a misfire code on one of the cylinders, likely the one you've consistently had problems with, swap coils with a cylinder that does not exhibit problems.
6. If the Misfire changes to a different cylinder, then you know you have a bad ignition coil.
7. .....
8. profit
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top