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Recommend a good battery

runzwithsizorz

runzwithsizorz

Diamond Member
Bought a bad battery at Walmart. They initially declined to honor their warranty because the battery they sold me was no longer in their inventory, even though the manufacturer was. After nearly 3 hours and 2 managers Walmart agreed to replace my bad battery with another bad battery for a fee of $18, which I paid. I now find out that Walmart's policy is they will only replace the first defective battery, but not the second if it is also defective.
So ATOT, price is no object, show me a battery I can trust, and a company that will back it!
 
A battery is a battery, they're all the same. I've never had one fail within 5 years and I've never had one last more than 10. Brand makes no difference whatsoever.
 
Most batteries at most stores are made by Johnson Controls. Of course, the possible subtle differences in engineering low end vs high end batteries is not something you can see.

Usually, there's always a basic, higher end, and and even higher end battery with differing warranty periods under the same brand name.
 
Costco has a no questions asked return policy and their batteries have 3 year free replacement warranty.
 
I like Sears... and they honor the warranty. I have also used (because there isn't a Sears convenient to me anymore) batteries from O'Reilly's and Auto Zone.

I do NOT like Interstate batteries... I went through 3 of them with the side terminals stripping out in about 6 months. They honored the warranty, but obviously there was a design deficiency.
 
Myg0t said:
Costco has a no questions asked return policy and their batteries have 3 year free replacement warranty.
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Costco all the way -

If you really want to go all out - Interstate & Sears Die Hard are expensive but highly rated.

Then of course, their is the Optima line.
 
runzwithsizorz said:
Bought a bad battery at Walmart. They initially declined to honor their warranty because the battery they sold me was no longer in their inventory, even though the manufacturer was. After nearly 3 hours and 2 managers Walmart agreed to replace my bad battery with another bad battery for a fee of $18, which I paid. I now find out that Walmart's policy is they will only replace the first defective battery, but not the second if it is also defective.
So ATOT, price is no object, show me a battery I can trust, and a company that will back it!
Click to expand...
here is a question... why do you blame walmart for the battery? have you tested your charging system? easiest way to test it is to start the car, keep everything off, then measure the voltage. Then, one at a time, start turning on accessories and checking the voltage each time with the last accessory to turn on is the rear defrost. If you turn everything on and the voltage exceeds 13.2v, your charging system is running properly. Though at 13.2v, if you're using these accessories all at once, and you do a lot of city driving and the distances are like less than 15 miles, your battery is going to run down. The reason for this is because you cannot make up for the lost charge with a charging voltage of only 13.2v.


as for the "best battery", it depends on your group size.
CR_Battery_Compare.png
 
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Blain said:
Consumer Reports: Beware: The best and worst replacement car batteries can be from the same brand

I love the idea of AGM batteries, but haven't taken the leap yet (batteries in my three vehicles are holding up).
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Most modern motorcycle batteries are AGM. The key to AGM longevity is recharging them... they require a particular charging cycle or it will destroy it. I used to recharge mine with an old car charger I had... destroyed every one in a year or so. Guy at AutoZone said I needed a charger that specifically charged AGM batteries... and now, no problems!
 
Charlie98 said:
What? Did you change your alternator to?

I've had no issues with AGM and regular chargers in my vehicles. My AGM's take the abuse alot better than wet lead acid batteries where they sit for periods of time. Such as winter beaters.

My dad has had short life span in his motorcyles with AGM and I have had bad luck with the AGM batteries from Batteries+ for UPS's.
Click to expand...
 
Here is a great tip in picking a battery. Quite often a battery will sit on the shelf for months and months, sometimes almost a year. Do you want this partially sulfated battery in your car? Of course not. Here is the battery code trick.

Every car battery has a code stamped on the battery (usually on the top edge) or a sticker on the top. Here is how you read the code. Keep in mind that the code is the manufacture date. When you go to a place like Sams Club, Costco or Walmart, check the date code and get the freshest battery. You should get a battery with a C6 code on it meaning it was manufactured in March of 2016. Can't get much fresher than that.

Keep in mind that just like the grocery stores, they move the old stock to the front. So the batteries in the front might have an H5 code meaning August 2015. Always purchase the freshest battery you can. See the code below. The first letter designates the month and the second digit designates the year. Below are some examples. It's a pretty easy code to figure out.

A1 = Jan 2011
A2 = Jan 2012
A3 = Jan 2013
B4 = Feb 2014
C5 = March 2015
C6 = March 2016
D6 = April 2016
 
tortillasoup said:
here is a question... why do you blame walmart for the battery? have you tested your charging system?
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I have the tools to thoroughly test. Was also tested by an auto parts store, and a auto repair shop. Batteries were tested in 2 cars, 1 with a rebuilt charging system. Both the original, and the replacement batteries show bad cell(s), and will not hold a charge, and both in about 1 year, on a 4 year warranty.
 
runzwithsizorz said:
I have the tools to thoroughly test. Was also tested by an auto parts store, and a auto repair shop. Batteries were tested in 2 cars, 1 with a rebuilt charging system. Both the original, and the replacement batteries show bad cell(s), and will not hold a charge, and both in about 1 year, on a 4 year warranty.
Click to expand...

what I'm saying is, you need to thoroughly check your charging system with a working battery so you don't repeat this.
 
Most batteries are made from recycled materials. I think they're always a huge YMMV these days. I've had some last 5-6 years....some last less than 2.

Walmart replaced my almost 3 year old battery when it failed a few years back without too much hassle. The worst part was that I tried to return it in the automotive area where I couldn't find an associate authorized to use the register, but was told to wait.....finally after waiting 15 minutes for someone to come help me (literal 15 minutes), they told me all returns had to be done up front at customer service...so I had waited for nothing and had to carry the battery through the store.

I'm not a huge fan of those 2 year batteries they sell. I'd probably suggest that Autozone has the best customer service, but maybe Duralast batteries aren't the best quality...I've just had decent luck with that company.
 
tortillasoup said:
what I'm saying is, you need to thoroughly check your charging system with a working battery so you don't repeat this.
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Both vehicles have been fully vetted, by myself, and our mechanic. Wife is driving around with my old truck battery, but it's on it's last leg, and also tests bad. Thankfully her old car doesn't have much of a shut down draw that my truck does, so she can park for more than 48 hours and still start, I cannot. Also I really can't complain for we at least got nearly 5 years with it.
I still remember the days when I could run an 8 track player with the doors open, and door, and dome lights on for 4 or 5 hours and still was able to start the car. What the hell happened?
 
having push button start is a major parasitic draw on the battery if the car has it. Alarms aren't nearly as bad but are still problematic. Computers + alarm/keyless entry = dead batteries.
 
mooseracing said:
What? Did you change your alternator to?

I've had no issues with AGM and regular chargers in my vehicles. My AGM's take the abuse alot better than wet lead acid batteries where they sit for periods of time. Such as winter beaters.

My dad has had short life span in his motorcyles with AGM and I have had bad luck with the AGM batteries from Batteries+ for UPS's.
Click to expand...

No, didn't change the alternator... all I can tell you is both my Battery Tender and my regular Schaurer [SP?] charger smoked about 5 different batteries across 2 different bikes in about 4 years. I've not had a problem since I've switched to a dedicated (switchable) AGM charger. My XR650L battery, which I had to replace every year prior, is now going on 4 years old since the switch.
 
Charlie98 said:
No, didn't change the alternator... all I can tell you is both my Battery Tender and my regular Schaurer [SP?] charger smoked about 5 different batteries across 2 different bikes in about 4 years. I've not had a problem since I've switched to a dedicated (switchable) AGM charger. My XR650L battery, which I had to replace every year prior, is now going on 4 years old since the switch.
Click to expand...

All motorcycle batteries should be charged with a 1 or 1.5 amp battery charger, not a 6 amp car charger. Has to do with the small size, and overheating the plates. Nothing to do with AGM.

My trickle charger is 30 years old. All my AGM's lasted at least 5 years in my motorcycles. The original in my ZX-11 lasted 11, and still worked when I replaced in out of paranoia.
 
I bought my last one at Costco. No issues.

Previously purchased batteries at NTB, AutoZone, and Sears. I don't recall the brands but I never had any issues with them.
 
tortillasoup said:
having push button start is a major parasitic draw on the battery if the car has it. Alarms aren't nearly as bad but are still problematic. Computers + alarm/keyless entry = dead batteries.
Click to expand...

I don't see why a push button be different than a key start?
 
eng2d2 said:
I don't see why a push button be different than a key start?
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to have a push button start, you probably have a 'smart key'. Smart Keys work by a variety of sensors throughout the car that lets the car know that the key is in the car and in which part of the car like the trunk. This takes a lot of power to do which is why I mention it.
 
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