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Random check engine light for an EGR Valve
- Thread starter murphy55d
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radioouman
Diamond Member
Sure, but this is literally two bolts and an electrical connector.
radioouman
Diamond Member
Which engine does your Dakota have?
I've tried cleaning EGR valves in the past, but I haven't had much luck with that. Sometimes they work but usually the check engine light comes back on.
I've tried cleaning EGR valves in the past, but I haven't had much luck with that. Sometimes they work but usually the check engine light comes back on.
radioouman
Diamond Member
On a 2005 Dakota with 4.7 liter engine (non-HO), the EGR valve is located near the intake manifold on the driver's side right up against the firewall. It's hard to spot as it sits lower than the intake manifold.
To change it, remove the electrical connector. There's a red tab that needs to be pushed to one side and then you have to squeeze down on a tab to get it free. Using a 13 mm socket, remove the bolt that you can see. I had to use a 3 inch wobble extention and then a 8 inch extension with a deep well socket to reach it with my 3/8 inch ratchet.
There's a second bolt that you can't see between the EGR valve and the firewall. With a little trial and error and a lot more luck, you can reach the hidden bolt with the 3 inch wobble extension and a 13 mm deep well socket. Attach the ratchet after the socket is on and remove. This one isn't easy and if there's any Dodge engineers reading this one, a couple of extra inches of clearance between the valve and the firewall wouldn't have killed you no matter what the cost accountants said.
With both bolts removed, you should be able to pull out the metal pipe that connects the manifold to the EGR valve out of the manifold (Pull to the right) and then you can lift the valve out.
For assembly, the metal pipe connecting the intake manifold the EGR valve has to be removed and reinstalled on the new valve. It's held on with 2 5/16th" bolts. You should put the rear bolt on tight, but leave the front bold loose for the reinstall as some adjustment is necessary to get it put back together and the rear is a pain to tighten when installed.
Line up the bolts that attach the valve and get the rear 13 mm bolt (The one you couldn't see on disassembly) started. Do not start the other 13 mm bolt as you'll need to pivot the valve and pipe to the left in order to reinsert the pipe into the intake manifold. Once the pipe is in the intake manifold. Start the other 13 mm bolt and tighten both 13 mm bolts and then the 5/16" bolts holding the pipe onto the valve. Reinstall the electrical connection.
Took me and a good friend about 2 1/2 hours. With these instructions, you should be able to do it in about an hour or hour and half. It's a major pain to change because of the tight space that the valve fits into and the less than generous clearances around the firewall.
To change it, remove the electrical connector. There's a red tab that needs to be pushed to one side and then you have to squeeze down on a tab to get it free. Using a 13 mm socket, remove the bolt that you can see. I had to use a 3 inch wobble extention and then a 8 inch extension with a deep well socket to reach it with my 3/8 inch ratchet.
There's a second bolt that you can't see between the EGR valve and the firewall. With a little trial and error and a lot more luck, you can reach the hidden bolt with the 3 inch wobble extension and a 13 mm deep well socket. Attach the ratchet after the socket is on and remove. This one isn't easy and if there's any Dodge engineers reading this one, a couple of extra inches of clearance between the valve and the firewall wouldn't have killed you no matter what the cost accountants said.
With both bolts removed, you should be able to pull out the metal pipe that connects the manifold to the EGR valve out of the manifold (Pull to the right) and then you can lift the valve out.
For assembly, the metal pipe connecting the intake manifold the EGR valve has to be removed and reinstalled on the new valve. It's held on with 2 5/16th" bolts. You should put the rear bolt on tight, but leave the front bold loose for the reinstall as some adjustment is necessary to get it put back together and the rear is a pain to tighten when installed.
Line up the bolts that attach the valve and get the rear 13 mm bolt (The one you couldn't see on disassembly) started. Do not start the other 13 mm bolt as you'll need to pivot the valve and pipe to the left in order to reinsert the pipe into the intake manifold. Once the pipe is in the intake manifold. Start the other 13 mm bolt and tighten both 13 mm bolts and then the 5/16" bolts holding the pipe onto the valve. Reinstall the electrical connection.
Took me and a good friend about 2 1/2 hours. With these instructions, you should be able to do it in about an hour or hour and half. It's a major pain to change because of the tight space that the valve fits into and the less than generous clearances around the firewall.
hydroponik
Senior member
But then how are you going to pass inspection 😛
But seriously, this part is semi-useless and mostly used for emissions.
I also have the same codes (P0401/0402) but I haven't fixed my car yet.
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