RAM feedback on ASUS Z97-Pro Wi-fi and i7-7490K Combo

4n0nM3

Junior Member
Jun 2, 2015
4
0
0
Hi all.

To make the long story short, had a lot of problems with a new ASUS Z97-Pro Wi-fi ac USB 3.1 MoBo, after 2 weeks of fruitless troubleshooting had no choice but to return it.

Though I am 99.99% certain the motherboard was the problem, I want to reduce any possibility of RAM being a factor.

I am using RAM on the ASUS QVL, however I have read of people having problems with RAM and these boards despite their RAM being on the ASUS QVL.

I would appreciate your help in the way of feedback from ANYONE who has a stable running system using a Z97-Pro Wi-fi ac board and i7-4790K combo to tell me which RAM they are using and if possible the exact ID# for the RAM kit.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
15,730
1,457
126
Hi all.

To make the long story short, had a lot of problems with a new ASUS Z97-Pro Wi-fi ac USB 3.1 MoBo, after 2 weeks of fruitless troubleshooting had no choice but to return it.

Though I am 99.99% certain the motherboard was the problem, I want to reduce any possibility of RAM being a factor.

I am using RAM on the ASUS QVL, however I have read of people having problems with RAM and these boards despite their RAM being on the ASUS QVL.

I would appreciate your help in the way of feedback from ANYONE who has a stable running system using a Z97-Pro Wi-fi ac board and i7-4790K combo to tell me which RAM they are using and if possible the exact ID# for the RAM kit.

Thanks in advance for your help.

What symptoms?

There are all sorts of sources for "RAM compatibility." You could even check the customer-reviews at Newegg for your particular board: look only at the 4 and 5-egg reviews; someone will likely mention which RAM they also chose.

Ram-makers like G.SKILL will have a "configurator" link on their web-site, so you can specify the motherboard model and find all the various RAM kits that work.

There are a lot of puzzling snags that can occur in configuring a new motherboard. I went through a panic initially with my first LGA-1155 board, because I wanted to put the dGPU graphics card in right away, but the BIOS was set to post on the Intel 3000 iGPU. "Oh, no! Blank screen! Gotta send it back!"

Also -- you didn't mention which RAM kit you were currently attempting to configure to that board. Of course, the board-maker's QVL list is a place to start, but they can only test so many RAM kits. So -- common sense, configurators, thread-posts and customer-reviews -- are -- to make a rhyme -- useful clues.

Here are the results from the G.SKILL configurator for RAM kits that work with that motherboard:

http://www.gskill.com/en/configurator?manu=29&chip=2146&model=2161
 
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4n0nM3

Junior Member
Jun 2, 2015
4
0
0
Hi BonzaiDuck,

Thank you so much for your reply, time and information provided, it's greatly appreciated.

Everything you said is very sound, practical and can most certainly help find "presumed" compatible RAM. I have already done the things you mentioned.

However, as I'm sure you will agree, assumption and proven fact are two different things, and as I explained in my original post, I'm simply trying to get feedback from people that are actually running a "stable" compatible system with the said specs to take out the potential surprise and trial and error factor in as much as possible. I think of it this way, one can believe to know many things theoretically but when in need of a tested solution it cannot replace proven factual experience.

Again, thank you very much for your reply, time and information provided, it's greatly appreciated.

Please don't stop the feedback people, anyone else?

TIA!
 

4n0nM3

Junior Member
Jun 2, 2015
4
0
0
Hi BonzaiDuck,

Thanks for your interest and trying to help. However, it really makes no difference now since the MoBo was returned.

Like I said, it's a LONG story and frankly I don't want to relive it again. However, I posted the whole thing in grueling detail to the official ASUS forum, you can read all about it over at this link:

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20150526165854238&board_id=1&model=Z97-PRO%28Wi-Fi+ac%29%2fUSB+3.1&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

I warn you, it's a LONG post, but you did ask.

On a side note, it's hard to believe in a forum like this there hasn't been more feedback to my information request. Oh well, it is what it is.

Good crossing type with you BonzaiDuck, take care.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
15,730
1,457
126
Hi BonzaiDuck,

Thanks for your interest and trying to help. However, it really makes no difference now since the MoBo was returned.

Like I said, it's a LONG story and frankly I don't want to relive it again. However, I posted the whole thing in grueling detail to the official ASUS forum, you can read all about it over at this link:

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx...-PRO(Wi-Fi+ac)/USB+3.1&page=1&SLanguage=en-us

I warn you, it's a LONG post, but you did ask.

On a side note, it's hard to believe in a forum like this there hasn't been more feedback to my information request. Oh well, it is what it is.

Good crossing type with you BonzaiDuck, take care.

Always look at the "sieve of possibilities" -- a concept used to explain combinations and permutations in statistics.

I had been through troubles like this last year, and I'm an experienced computer builder. But all of my troubles stemmed from (a) an AsRock motherboard I bought and examined with a magnifying glass -- showing bent or "dis-com-booberated" socket pins -- RMA'd back to the reseller; and (b) a barely used, un-abused upper-tier motherboard I bought on EBay, for which I proceeded to thoughtlessly damage and even break the bent pin when I tried to repair it.

So (a) it is possible to order a new board in shrink-wrapped box from a reseller like the Egg, and have defective socket-pins before you even attempt to use it, and (b) if your hand slips and you "chunk" a pin or two with the sharp edge of the CPU PCB, you can do enough damage to render the socket unusable. Or -- the only way to fix that sort of thing involves following a Russian You-Tube video, have the advantage of great eye-sight and a better than average magnifier with a steady hand and keen soldering skills. And even then, you cannot assure that the board will behave as it would have with no damage or defect.

Retail Intel CPUs are tested electronically with thorough software diagnostic programs three times. They are then visually inspected, but even if a visual "blemish" is found, the three-pass test determines whether or not the processor is "good," and it is pretty much guaranteed that such a processor will work as well or last as long as any off the Intel assembly-line.

Most people couldn't detect a misaligned socket pin easily, or -- most people wouldn't think to put a light and a magnifier on the socket as soon as they've removed the anti-static wrap. 20+ years building Intel-based systems, and I never bothered to check the socket-pin array with a magnifier until last September, when I began building my system of sweat and tears. (It's just great now, but after one RMA-refund and a second board purchase which I personally damaged. Thank God for the high-value RAM and CPU in the bundle.)

I still think the advice you got in the ROG forum thread was good per the RAM.

I would start testing those Corsairs in pairs if you choose to use them with the new board. Check the board manual again to see which pair of sockets to use with only one pair of modules.

Then again, it could just be some QC defect on that model board. Hopefully, to get it sorted out properly, it will only cost you time, some sweat, and packing tape if you need to RMA anything else.

I HAVE to be interested in your troubles, though. I was considering a Z97-Pro board as an option for my next computer project.
 

4n0nM3

Junior Member
Jun 2, 2015
4
0
0
Always look at the "sieve of possibilities" -- a concept used to explain combinations and permutations in statistics.

Heh, couldn't agree more.

I had been through troubles like this last year, and I'm an experienced computer builder. But all of my troubles stemmed from (a) an AsRock motherboard I bought and examined with a magnifying glass -- showing bent or "dis-com-booberated" socket pins -- RMA'd back to the reseller; and (b) a barely used, un-abused upper-tier motherboard I bought on EBay, for which I proceeded to thoughtlessly damage and even break the bent pin when I tried to repair it.

Yeah, as usual I really prepared for this build and read a lot on the troubles others had with the Z97 series from ASUS and others and one of the first things I did was take the CPU socket cap off and examine the pins with a magnifier and a mini LED maglite .


So (a) it is possible to order a new board in shrink-wrapped box from a reseller like the Egg, and have defective socket-pins before you even attempt to use it, and (b) if your hand slips and you "chunk" a pin or two with the sharp edge of the CPU PCB, you can do enough damage to render the socket unusable. Or -- the only way to fix that sort of thing involves following a Russian You-Tube video, have the advantage of great eye-sight and a better than average magnifier with a steady hand and keen soldering skills. And even then, you cannot assure that the board will behave as it would have with no damage or defect.

There was a time I would have been inclined to go for that approach but these days (I too have been at this for over 20 years) I'll just return the sucker and if that's not an option trash it, get another and start fresh. Life is too short no sense in torturing yourself.


Retail Intel CPUs are tested electronically with thorough software diagnostic programs three times. They are then visually inspected, but even if a visual "blemish" is found, the three-pass test determines whether or not the processor is "good," and it is pretty much guaranteed that such a processor will work as well or last as long as any off the Intel assembly-line.

I would expect nothing less from Intel, that's why they collect premium prices for their chips. However, there is always going to be an exception and there will be that 1 in a million screwball chip that happens to land on your board just because Murphy's law needs to stay in play.


Most people couldn't detect a misaligned socket pin easily, or -- most people wouldn't think to put a light and a magnifier on the socket as soon as they've removed the anti-static wrap. 20+ years building Intel-based systems, and I never bothered to check the socket-pin array with a magnifier until last September, when I began building my system of sweat and tears. (It's just great now, but after one RMA-refund and a second board purchase which I personally damaged. Thank God for the high-value RAM and CPU in the bundle.)

I hear you, specially on the sweat and tears part, this sucker had been going in circles.


I still think the advice you got in the ROG forum thread was good per the RAM.

It's interesting you still think it's the RAM after having read my post and knowing everything I did to exclude that possibility.


I would start testing those Corsairs in pairs if you choose to use them with the new board. Check the board manual again to see which pair of sockets to use with only one pair of modules.

Well, as I always say anything is possible, but if you read my post you know I walked each stick of RAM by each slot with the same results each time and I also ran memtest86+ on it and since that wasn't enough for me, I tried my RAM in another stable non ASUS Z97 board and it had no problems at all, then I tried the RAM from the stable non ASUS Z97 board in the ASUS board and had the same troubles, made no difference.

Then again, it could just be some QC defect on that model board. Hopefully, to get it sorted out properly, it will only cost you time, some sweat, and packing tape if you need to RMA anything else.

After having worked on it for two weeks, believe you me, it was a QC problem, have no doubt about it, I sure don't.


I HAVE to be interested in your troubles, though. I was considering a Z97-Pro board as an option for my next computer project.

Heh, I did think you were being more curious than expected for just trying to be helpful.

I'm dropping the USB 3.1 board, it left a bad taste in my mouth, it's too new and has only 3 BIOS releases, I'm going for the wi-fi ac model instead which was the one I originally was going to get and changed my mind at the last minute, that board has been around longer, has at least 10 BIOS releases already and more people using it.

As soon as I get the new board, Amazon is out of stock right now, I'm not in a hurry and can use the break, I will start the build again and hopefully it will not be a nightmare this time around.

It goes without saying, I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have for when you get your build going.

It's been good talking shop with you BonzaiDuck, take care.

UPDATE: 06-11-2015

Just thought I should post an update on the final outcome in case it might help someone.

Got tired of waiting on the non USB 3.1 replacement board, it's still out of stock at Amazon.
So I decided to play the odds and roll the dice, figured the chances of hitting two bad boards in a row was high.
Long story short, got the NEW same type USB 3.1 board and used ALL the SAME stuff (CPU, RAM, etc) as with the previous board and the new board fired up without a hitch on the first shot and EVERYTHING works perfectly, even the two RAM kits are playing well together. Mystery/Problem solved, it was a bad motherboard.

Thanks to all who tried to help and/or contributed.


 
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