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Quick question about struts

DVad3r

DVad3r

Diamond Member
Hey guys,

I need to replace the front set of struts in my car.

This is the strut I want.

Is that the only part I will need or do I need to get mounts etc or other pieces? Or does this one have everything that is needed?

The reason I'm asking is because my mechanic quoted me $ 300 per strut, and this one costs $ 140, so I was wondering if it's just the strut he has plus other pieces or is he just ripping me off?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monroe-Shoc...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item415ad9f707

Car is in sig.
 
You will not be happy with the Monroe, go with a KYB GR2 if you want to maintain a stock ride.

In any case, if he is putting on Monroe, should be about $75 cheaper per side, say $200 or so.
 
Yea but when replacing struts is it just the strut that needs to be replaced or other parts too like mounts etc? Or is that included in the eBay item I linked?
 
Are you installing them yourself or having someone else do it? The mechanic may have been quoting with installation.

Looks like it comes with everything you need though.
 
It pays 2.6hrs. to change both front struts(does not include alignment).
Where your buying fully loaded(quick) struts labor should be closer to 2hrs.
Also if you have electronic suspension the struts cost alot more.
 
Mechanics don't buy parts from eBay. They buy parts from their trusted source, and have warranty to back the parts, in case the parts goes bad.

You can buy the parts and bring to the mechanics, but be advise, they will be no warranty and will be an as-is job.
 
5150MyU said:
It pays 2.6hrs. to change both front struts(does not include alignment).
Where your buying fully loaded(quick) struts labor should be closer to 2hrs.
Also if you have electronic suspension the struts cost alot more.
Click to expand...

2 hours per strut? To take the old ones out and put new quick strut in?
 
HarryLui said:
Mechanics don't buy parts from eBay. They buy parts from their trusted source, and have warranty to back the parts, in case the parts goes bad.

You can buy the parts and bring to the mechanics, but be advise, they will be no warranty and will be an as-is job.
Click to expand...

Hmm that's true, the mechanic I went to said there's warranty on the struts if I get it from him.
 
I'd go KYB GR2 if you don't want to introduce new squeaking, clunking, etc. Those cheap struts are worth everything you pay for them. I wouldn't get Monroe unless it was the USA made SensaTrac. KYB is made in Japan. Everything else is a made in China knock off that everyone rebrands.

If you go components the breakdown is (some may or may not be reused depending on condition):

strut
spring
lower spring seat isolator
upper spring seat isolator
dust boot
bump stop
upper spring perch
bearing (torrington/needle bearing)
upper mount

Some of those come together (eg: upper iso, bump stop, and dust bellows might come together, upper spring perch and bearing might come together, etc).

Then you'll need to factor in proper tools and time. You'll need a good spring compressor, and either an impact or a special strut socket and allen key to tighten the middle nut. If you attempt to do this yourself, observe videos on strut and spring safety. There is still over 500 lbs of force in the spring even when the strut if fully extended. Do not remove the center nut without a spring compressor in place if you value your face, eyes, spinal cord, brain, internal organs, etc.
 
Last edited:
exdeath said:
Then you'll need to factor in proper tools and time. You'll need a good spring compressor, and either an impact or a special strut socket and allen key to tighten the middle nut. If you attempt to do this yourself, observe videos on strut and spring safety. There is still over 500 lbs of force in the spring even when the strut if fully extended. Do not remove the center nut without a spring compressor in place if you value your face, eyes, spinal cord, brain, internal organs, etc.
Click to expand...

While I agree, you are making it sound like a bomb squad type job (level of danger)
When I was swapping my springs on my Neon back in the day, I could just hold on the top mount and have someone else undo the nut while putting both hands on the mount. Not all cars are like this, but I never had an issue working with the springs because they were not under that much tension on that particular car. That being said, until you know tricks like that, always use a spring compressor.

And I agree with you on the KYB part. They are great struts.
 
CraigRT said:
While I agree, you are making it sound like a bomb squad type job (level of danger)
When I was swapping my springs on my Neon back in the day, I could just hold on the top mount and have someone else undo the nut while putting both hands on the mount. Not all cars are like this, but I never had an issue working with the springs because they were not under that much tension on that particular car. That being said, until you know tricks like that, always use a spring compressor.

And I agree with you on the KYB part. They are great struts.
Click to expand...

That really depends on the car - I wouldn't dream of trying that without knowing 100% ahead of time. I can do that with an MR2, but for my Tacoma I may have ended up with a top mount embedded in my skull.
 
exdeath said:
Then you'll need to factor in proper tools and time. You'll need a good spring compressor, and either an impact or a special strut socket and allen key to tighten the middle nut. If you attempt to do this yourself, observe videos on strut and spring safety. There is still over 500 lbs of force in the spring even when the strut if fully extended. Do not remove the center nut without a spring compressor in place if you value your face, eyes, spinal cord, brain, internal organs, etc.
Click to expand...

If he is buying a full complete strut assembly then this won't really be a problem. Take the old one out, put the new one in, go for an alignment. Probably won't have to deal with springs and etc.
 
I replaced all the springs on my Miata, which is the same labor as a full shock replacement. With a buddy helping me, we did all 4 corners in about 2.5 hours and it was my first time ever doing it. Just saying.

I know that your suspension is different, but a macpherson strut can't be any worse... I'm a complete noob and I was fine. It does help to have 4 hands, though. Afterwards, drive it for a day to let it settle, then get an alignment.

Edit: if you're buying the full assembly, then that's like cutting 25% of the labor, or even more.
 
jlee said:
That really depends on the car - I wouldn't dream of trying that without knowing 100% ahead of time. I can do that with an MR2, but for my Tacoma I may have ended up with a top mount embedded in my skull.
Click to expand...

Which is why I said not all cars are like that, and that I recommend a spring compressor for the first time always. 😀
 
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