Questions about unfinished wood and IKEA

thirtythree

Diamond Member
Aug 7, 2001
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1. Is it necessary to finish unfinished wood furniture? Specifically a dining table/chairs, and an end table. They are solid pine.

2. Is IKEA's lower-end furniture decent quality?

Thanks, man.
 

burntfish

Senior member
Jun 28, 2006
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1. i personally dont put any finishing varnish on my cabinets. they're been ok so far.

2. they're not bad, they're not great but you do get what you paid for.
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
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I suggest sealing it. I have wood counters and use tung oil to keep it foodsafe. I'd use that on a table, as well.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
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Finish will impart some surface hardness that keep soft woods from denting. It will also keep wood from staining either through food spills or hand oils. Any water spilled on unfinished wood will raise the grain.

There is a big difference between the abuse a picture frame, a cabinet, and a kitchen table get in everyday use.

 

Kaspian

Golden Member
Aug 30, 2004
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Originally posted by: thirtythree
1. Is it necessary to finish unfinished wood furniture? Specifically a dining table/chairs, and an end table. They are solid pine.

Its not necessary. However, if you spill something on it, more than likely it will be absorbed (depending on the substance) by the wood. Pine being a soft wood will be more than prone to those problems.

 

thirtythree

Diamond Member
Aug 7, 2001
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Okay, so it sounds like I would want to finish the furniture. Based on a quick google search, I assume I just need to sand it first, then apply some sort of oil or varnish. Any advice on what type of finish to use? I don't want the color to get much darker, but I would like to protect from stains/water/scratches...

Will it be necessary to refinish the furniture regularly?

EDIT: I also don't want it to be too shiny afterwards. I like the look of natural wood.
 

KB

Diamond Member
Nov 8, 1999
5,406
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1. I would definitely finish it. IKEA actually sells their stain/finish in the store if you want to match something.

2. IKEA has decent furniture if you buy their sold wood stuff. Never buy compressed board furniture from anyone.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Originally posted by: thirtythree
Okay, so it sounds like I would want to finish the furniture. Based on a quick google search, I assume I just need to sand it first, then apply some sort of oil or varnish. Any advice on what type of finish to use? I don't want the color to get much darker, but I would like to protect from stains/water/scratches...

Will it be necessary to refinish the furniture regularly?

EDIT: I also don't want it to be too shiny afterwards. I like the look of natural wood.

The most idiot proof durable finish that will keep it looking natural would be a water based poly-urethane. Sand lightly between coats, but especially between the first and second coats because pine will probably have some grain raising.

 

thirtythree

Diamond Member
Aug 7, 2001
8,680
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Originally posted by: KB
1. I would definitely finish it. IKEA actually sells their stain/finish in the store if you want to match something.
I want to match the finished birch on another piece of furniture. The pine seems to have darker grain (if that's what it's called... the patterns in the wood), so I'm not sure how well they will go together.
 

thirtythree

Diamond Member
Aug 7, 2001
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Originally posted by: Squisher
Originally posted by: thirtythree
Okay, so it sounds like I would want to finish the furniture. Based on a quick google search, I assume I just need to sand it first, then apply some sort of oil or varnish. Any advice on what type of finish to use? I don't want the color to get much darker, but I would like to protect from stains/water/scratches...

Will it be necessary to refinish the furniture regularly?

EDIT: I also don't want it to be too shiny afterwards. I like the look of natural wood.

The most idiot proof durable finish that will keep it looking natural would be a water based poly-urethane. Sand lightly between coats, but especially between the first and second coats because pine will probably have some grain raising.
Thanks. I'll look into that.
 

So

Lifer
Jul 2, 2001
25,923
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Originally posted by: KB
1. I would definitely finish it. IKEA actually sells their stain/finish in the store if you want to match something.

2. IKEA has decent furniture if you buy their sold wood stuff. Never buy compressed board furniture from anyone.

Fiberboard furniture has a place if you know what you're getting and aren't pretending that it's quality furniture that will last your family generations...
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
91
Originally posted by: Fike
another thing to consider is wax. Idiot-proof to apply. Easy to cleanup. Looks good.
http://www.minwax.com/products...alty/finishing-wax.cfm

The only problem with waxes is their tendacy to turn milky white went subjected to water (white cirlcles under a glass you left there) even on top of a varish. This is something that is fixable, but why have to keep chasing after people who forget to use coasters? On finished woods that might see a beverage container set down upon them I prefer a product like Doozy for just this reason.
 

Syrch

Diamond Member
May 21, 2004
3,382
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Originally posted by: burntfish
1. no. I would put a sealer on the table though

2. they're not bad, they're not great but you do get what you paid for.

Fixed to fit what i'd write :)
 

Kaspian

Golden Member
Aug 30, 2004
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Originally posted by: thirtythree
Okay, so it sounds like I would want to finish the furniture. Based on a quick google search, I assume I just need to sand it first, then apply some sort of oil or varnish. Any advice on what type of finish to use?

For a dinning table and chairs I would advise to go with a good quality oil base polyurathane. Although, there has been a big improvent with the acrylic resins formulas, I would still use an oil base poly. Specially on furniture that will be use often. After the curing process the oil will have a harder finish.

Dont forget to sand before you apply your first coat. Also light sand in between coats. The number of coats depends on the finish desired and the method of application. Normally two to three coats should be sufficient.

Now, if for some reason you have got to use a water based (100%acrylic) poly, make sure that you DO NOT use steel wool for sanding. Thats a common mistake some people do.




I don't want the color to get much darker, but I would like to protect from stains/water/scratches...



There is something called "ambering" process that takes place with oil based materials. The oil base poly is no exception. The finish will "amber" overtime but it wont change the color much. If you were finishing a wood that has been stained with a white stain, I would go a different route other wise stick with the oil based.

Whats the color of the wood right now?



Will it be necessary to refinish the furniture regularly?

NO. If you take your time doing everything right and use good quality products, then NO. After you apply your finish let the furniture "cure" for a few days or weeks before putting it to normal use. The longer you let it cure the better.



EDIT: I also don't want it to be too shiny afterwards. I like the look of natural wood.

You could get a flat finish, "rubbed effect", or satin finish. Now the first two finishes (flat and rubbed effect) will be hard to find at a local store. More than likely they will have to order it. They just dont sell that much. So for a local store to stock it, its just not worth it. I love the satin finish myself. It gives the wood just enough sheen but wont be as shiny as a semi gloss or gloss finish.

Now, the sheen level is measured in units @ an angle (normaly 80* or 60*). Just because a poly says Satin on the label, the product may be "duller" or "shinier" than a different brand.


So, you go to the store and you have a few different choices of GOOD QUALITY satin finish polyurathanes. How do you know which one will have the level of sheen that will please you? Simple, bring a piece of wood to the store and ask someone if they can run a few samples on it. Let them dry for a day or two and make your call. Or you could ask for data sheets on those products. In it you'll find the units of sheen. The more units of sheen level the "shinier" the finish. Now, make sure the units have been measured at the same angle, either 60* or 80*. Other wise you may want to run some samples.


I think I'll stop now. I can ramble about this sort of thing all day long. Sorry if thats a little to much "input." Let me know if you have any questions.
 

thirtythree

Diamond Member
Aug 7, 2001
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Thanks for the overview, Kaspian. I decided I'm just going to get the dining table now, and the finish doesn't need to match any wood (so I don't care if it gets a bit darker). I'm not actually getting the furniture for a couple weeks, so I might have questions then.
 

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,391
1,780
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Look into the water-based polys too. I used some on a table and it turned out pretty good. I don't believe you have to do as much work on them up front, but they need to be reapplied more frequently.