question about UNDERclocking

soogiebro

Member
Mar 22, 2003
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hey everyone how are ya'll? i'm in college right now, and i just had a question.

i recently built my comp for college, 2500+ AMD XP, and was just wondering if i should UNDERCLOCK since the dorm rooms are so hot [no A/C]. my idle temps range from 44-50 C, 50 on hot days, 44 on rainy days. should i underclock for now while i'm at college to lower the temps? does underclocking for a long time mess up my CPU when i try to clock my CPU back to stock speed and maybe even overclock the CPU?

i was thinking since the comp CPU is so used to the underclocked speed, i would damage the CPU if i clocked the CPU back to normal.

i'm using the stock AMD heatsink and i might consider getting the SLK800 sometime soon, but for now, i may need to underclock...any comments?
 

sman789

Banned
May 6, 2003
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to be OT, whats ur dorms temp?
ours ranges between 84-90:(

but my p4c is going strong but at a high 48 idle
 

Soulkeeper

Diamond Member
Nov 23, 2001
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Originally posted by: soogiebro
hey everyone how are ya'll? i'm in college right now, and i just had a question.

i recently built my comp for college, 2500+ AMD XP, and was just wondering if i should UNDERCLOCK since the dorm rooms are so hot [no A/C]. my idle temps range from 44-50 C, 50 on hot days, 44 on rainy days. should i underclock for now while i'm at college to lower the temps? does underclocking for a long time mess up my CPU when i try to clock my CPU back to stock speed and maybe even overclock the CPU?

i was thinking since the comp CPU is so used to the underclocked speed, i would damage the CPU if i clocked the CPU back to normal.

i'm using the stock AMD heatsink and i might consider getting the SLK800 sometime soon, but for now, i may need to underclock...any comments?

yeah those temps are a bit toasty but i doubt it will do any harm
you could always try undervolting yur proc at it's default clock speed if it is fully stable at 1.6v or less you could see a good temp drop

the slk-800 is a nice heatsink with a good variable speed 80mm fan
also i've never know underclocking to damage the proc's potential to clock higher
good luck
 

soogiebro

Member
Mar 22, 2003
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Originally posted by: sman789
to be OT, whats ur dorms temp?
ours ranges between 84-90:(

but my p4c is going strong but at a high 48 idle


yeah our temps usually average about 88 F, so it's real hot up in herrrrre.

soulkeeper, i guess i'll try to underclock since it seems like there'll be no harm in underclocking....i'm just scared of those temps cuz at home my temps are about 41 C idle, but here, yesterday it was 50 C idle...tha'ts some people's full load temps. well, thanks for the help...any more feedback?
 

Soulkeeper

Diamond Member
Nov 23, 2001
6,739
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just try undervolting at first
sometimes the processors don't need all that voltage to even run at their rated speeds
undervolting should decrease temps more than underclocking
try 1.6 or 1.575
 

SinfulWeeper

Diamond Member
Sep 2, 2000
4,567
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Originally posted by: edmundoab
leave your casing open
in anycase, the temps seems fine ;) especially using stock cooling

My CPU temps always rose when I openned my case. Perhaps you should consider what's wrong with your cooling setup as a properly setup case cools better when closed.
 

soogiebro

Member
Mar 22, 2003
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my voltage minimum is at 1.65 for the asus a7n8x deluxe....is there any way i can get it lower?
 

MDE

Lifer
Jul 17, 2003
13,199
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You could try this and see if it works. I know the multiplier part of it works but haven't tried the vcore mod.
 

KF

Golden Member
Dec 3, 1999
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I think Bartons are rated to about 90 C, not that I would want to get anywhere near that. To damage it, it would be still higher.

> a properly setup case cools better when closed.

If this happens often, I would be surprised. Whenever I open a case, a blast of hot air hits me. No way it's as cool as it could be inside. The air circulation might be poorer past the CPU without the case side channeling the air, but the air that gets there is so much cooler that the net effect is a cooler CPU . IAC you could fix the air flow pretty easy and do even better with an open case.

People have unrealistic ideas about air flow. First of all they believe the fan rating. They believe that a fan with the same rating but from a different manufacturer is moving the same amount of air. They think a 40cfm fan is moving 40cfm of air in/out of their case. That 40 cfm is with no restriction, no back pressure. The slightest restriction will cut the movement drastically. They think a front fan will move about as much air with an array of little holes as an inlet and a plastic bezel in front of it is as if nothing were in the way. From the looks of it, the holes amount to maybe 1/4 the area, and the front bezel could not be over 1/20th. They think an air filter maintains about the same air flow. They should figure it is maybe 1/5 or 1/10. So they've got a 40cfm fan or two howling away and air barely drifting into the case. But all the things in the way do block the noise quite a bit.

Next, they think this air flow, whatever the amount, is getting to their CPU. A strong CPU fan sets up a recirculating current of hot air through itself blocking and diverting the general air flow around the area it dominates. A small amount of the general flow is caught in the CPU circulation to supply cooler air. What the case fans really do is reduce the temperature of the air that mixes into the CPU circulation. Almost all of the air entering and exiting the case is diverted around the CPU. What would be most effective is a strong current to inject a volume of cool air into the CPU pattern, and at the same time set up a flow exiting from the CPU. A high volume fan, with nothing in the way, directed at the CPU at a 45 degee angle inclined toward the rear case fan does this pretty well.

The engineers tell us that the main function of the CPU fan is to supply air turbulance to the HS fins. It scrubs away hot air sticking to the fins similar to the way the agitator in a washing machine scrubs away dirt sticking to clothes. I have noticed that very powerful CPU fans in addition cause a huge blast of air to exit near the base of the HS. Depending on what is in the way to block it, this blast is strong enough to enlarge the circulation pattern, so that it picks up more cool air. The style of HSs with lots of close-spaced fins does this less.

To enlarge a little on the illusory cfm rating of fans; fans without a baffle surrounding them have a large "short circuit" current going directly from the front to the back. That is counted in the cfm of the fan, inflating the number. More often than not, that short circuit flow is not useful. If you block that flow with a baffle, you immediately reduce the cfm, athough you probably get get more air where it is needed. Depending on the manufacturers design, there may be more or less short circuit flow. Deep fans should have a little less (38mm vs 25mm.) Centrifugal fans (blowers) do have baffles. So their cfm rating is way below a similar size axial fan even though they might move about the same amount of air in a real-life situation.
 

batmanuel

Platinum Member
Jan 15, 2003
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If you are not OC'ing your processor, you might want to give the Coolermaster Aero 7 Lite a try. I picked one up one a whim the other day because it was free after rebate at a Fry's grand opening in my area, and I just got around to putting it in last night (I wanted read a few reviews before I put it in to see if it was actually worth the slight risk of cracking my CPU if I used too much pressure trying to remove the old stock AMD HSF). It dropped both the temperature of my CPU (~ 10 degrees C) and the noise level of my computer when I used it to replace of my stock AMD heatsink.

It has a pretty neat design, using a blower mounted at a right angle to the heatsink rather than an axial fan. This allows you to get a lot more airflow with a lot less noise. Plus, if you have a windowed case, it looks pretty neat (the main reason I bought it, since I don't yet have the quality of RAM I need to do any worthwhile overclocking), since the blue plastic blower has a transparent plastic shroud around it. The retention mechanism is also quite nice, using a clip that latches on to all six of the plastic nubs on the side of the socket. It goes on really easy, and doesn't require a lot of force, so you don't have to worry about cracking your Athlon while installing it. The only downside is that there is a little thermal pad preinstalled, so you have to scape it off if you want to out on any of your own thermal compound like Artic silver. What I like most is that the blower is variable speed - and it even has the option of either mounting the speed control knob in a 3 1/2" bay or in an empty PCI slot opening (I put mine in the otherwise useless opening that my case has directly above the slot occupied by my AGP graphics cards). That way, you can crank up the blower when it is hot outside and then turn it down in the winter (on the lowest setting - about 1900 RPM - it is quieter than my case and PSU fans but still manages to cool better than my stock HSF).

IMHO, it is about the best HSF you can get for around $16-$19. Not as good as a SLK by a long shot, but if you are not trying to turn your 2500+ into a 3200+, then it should work just fine to keep your temps down. And, as I mentioned earlier, it looks a lot nicer than a normal HSF.

If you are going to take a look at the Aeros, I should warn you that they also make a more expensive version with an all copper heatsink, but from the reviews I've read this costlier version isn't worth getting because for some odd reason it doesn't cool as well as the Lite version. Also, the heatsink on the copper version is so bulky it winds up not being able to clear the capacitors around the CPU socket on a lot of common boards (the A7N8X that I have is one that comes to mind).
 

KF

Golden Member
Dec 3, 1999
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>from the reviews I've read this costlier version isn't worth getting because for some odd reason
> it doesn't cool as well as the Lite version

The tests on the Lite version have the newer, larger fan.