Are you doing the whole axle or just the joint? And do you mean CV joint or CV boot? Replacing and repacking grease in boots is cheaper than a whole axle, but labor involved is the same.
What you linked says axle assembly which means spline to spline so yeah that includes joints, boots, everything. Double check with a live person just to be sure.
If you are looking at a complete CV axle and don't know what a CV joint is or if what you linked has joints included (the pics show both inner and outer joints and boots BTW), you might want to have a professional auto shop do it for you.
Some real world tips that might not be obvious if you've never done it before and want to do it yourself:
-most wheel hub and suspension nuts are castle nuts and have bent back cotter pins or lock washers with bending tabs that need to come out before you can take the nut off. These may be hidden under old caked on grease, mud, or rust and may not be visible at first glance. Also look for dust caps and such that might obscure necessary nuts, such as the big axle nut at the center of the wheel.
-when you pull the inner joint out of the transmission, even slightly, it will leak gear oil all over the place; it will make quite a nasty mess if you aren't ready for it, and depending on how much is lost, you will need to top it off once you replace the axle. This is a big issue on a lift where the car is in the air level, but if you use a jack stand or drive on ramp to just lift that corner of the car, it shouldn't be bad, if any.
-if you are removing joints from the axle (even to replace a boot), you may need a press, or otherwise watch out for carbide snap rings riding in grooves inside the shaft under the joint hub. Sometimes you have to push or beat the joint ONTO the axle to expose the snap ring, remove then ring, then pull the joint off. Sometimes there are two snap rings and you have to go back and forth so you can expose one, then the other. I remember doing something like that on my Camry, I don't recall exactly how it was set up, suffice to say if you can't beat/tap the joint off the axle splines, you probably missed a snap ring. You'll have to do this even if just replacing boots. This is the most painful part IMO, if you are just replacing the entire axle assembly as one part, you can skip all this entirely.
-suspension work is mostly rugged and dirty work that often involves hammers and pry bars to break caked together muddy and rusty parts loose or pull mated splined surfaces apart after removing fasteners. you won't break or bend anything other than yourself under your own human power so don't be afraid to strong arm stuff if need be.
-depending on mileage, if it's manual you may consider doing the clutch at the same time since the cost of a clutch is low relative to the labor and cost of CV axles, and the short axle has to come out anyway, or at least drop out of the wheel hub, in order to be able to pull the transmission back far enough to get to the clutch. Again, gear oil spillage is in inevitable unless you free up both axles at the wheel hubs and ensure that the inner shafts don't slide out of the transmission/differential.
-if you have ABS, note the ABS indicator ring (the toothed sprocket on the outer joint next to the wheel hub) and the sensor location in the wheel hub. If you replace the whole axle, be sure you get the appropriate axle with or without the ABS ring. The second item down in your link is 'without ABS'
-doing suspension work will eat your knuckles and elbows so be cautious of what you are pulling on and where you knuckles and elbows will end up when it finally breaks free on that last forceful tug... and if you are doing it on a lift where you are standing up with the car above you, don't slip and fall on your ass when you give that axle/whatever a final tug and slip on gear oil 😉
