Q6600+Striker Extreme Nightmare

[Bobbyfoo101]

Hello all, I'm new to the forum and could really use some help/advice with my new rig. I can't seem to get passed 2.8GHz and I know this processor has more balls than that, especially with this MOBO.

I've already tried to revert my BIOS back to older versions and I've tried numerous VCore/FSB/Multiplier configurations but with no success. I have tried to incrementally increase the VCore and NB/SB to push passed the 1260 FSB hump but it doesn't seem to be working. I know there are FSB holes on this board but I can't seem to get around them. Am I doing something wrong? I'm really new at this. Any help would be really appreciated.

These are my current hardware/BIOS settings.

Q6600 @2.4Ghz
C2D ASUS Striker Extreme 680i
4GB (4x1) A-DATA DDR2 800 RAM
250GB SATA II HDD
Windows Vista 32-bit OS
UltraChillTEC Thermo CPU Cooler
(2x) eVGA 8800 GT's
850w Coolermaster Real Pro SLI
3x Case Fans

BIOS: (v.1401)

AI Tuning= Manual
Memory Clock Mode=Unlinked
xFSB Memory Ratio= Auto
FSB (QDR)=1260
Memory= 850
Actual Memory (DDR)= 840

Memory Voltage=Auto
1.2V HT Voltage=Auto
NB Core Voltage=Auto
SB Core Voltage=Auto
CPV VTT Voltage=Auto
DDR II Controller Ref Voltage=Auto
DDR II Channel A ref Voltage=Auto
DDR II Channel B ref Voltage=Auto

CPU Multiplier 9x

Memory Timing
tCL=Auto
tRCD=Auto
tRD=Auto
tRAS=Auto
Command Per Clock=Auto

CPU Internal Thermal Control=Disabled
Limit CPUID MaxVal=Disabled
Enhanced C1=Disabled
Execute Disable Bit=Enabled
Virtualized Technology=Enabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedTec=Disabled
LDT Frequency=5x

Link to my CPU-Z in case needed.

Please let me know if more info is needed.

 

[GuitarDaddy]

Your problem is your memory settings. At your current settings(per cpuz) your overclocking your memory to ddr840, and 4 sticks are difficult to overclock and don't overclock very far.
You need to drop down from the 3:4 mem ratio to 1:1

Not familiar with your board, I see you have it set "unlinked" but CPUz shows otherwize. Maybe you need to take "xFSB memory ratio" off auto?

If you can get the unlinked feature working properly fix the speed at ddr800, otherwize make sure the mem ratio as shown in CPUz is 1:1 which would allow you to overclock FSB up to 400mhz without overclocking the ram

 

[ionoxx]

I'm having the same issues. I just can get it working at 3.0GHz. Fine up to 2.7GHz I have BIOS 1305 though. I can get it to POSt 50% of the time and windows will not load.

Sorry if i hijack your thread, but maybe someone can help us both!

AI Tuning= Manual
Memory Clock Mode=Linked
xFSB Memory Ratio= Auto
FSB (QDR)=1333
Memory= 888
Actual Memory (DDR)= 888

CPU Core Voltage=1.4V
Memory Voltage=2.1V
1.2V HT Voltage=1.3V
NB Core Voltage=1.4V
SB Core Voltage=1.5V
CPU VTT Voltage=1.5V
DDR II Controller Ref Voltage=Auto
DDR II Channel A ref Voltage=Auto
DDR II Channel B ref Voltage=Auto

CPU Multiplier 9x

Memory Timing
tCL=5
tRCD=5
tRD=5
tRAS=15
Command Per Clock=2T

CPU Internal Thermal Control=Disabled
Limit CPUID MaxVal=Disabled
Enhanced C1=Disabled
Execute Disable Bit=Disabled
Virtualized Technology=Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedTec=Disabled
LDT Frequency=5x

Spread Spectrums all diabled
SPP MCP clock set to 200MHz

 

[GuitarDaddy]

Originally posted by: ionoxx
I'm having the same issues. I just can get it working at 3.0GHz. Fine up to 2.7GHz I have BIOS 1305 though. I can get it to POSt 50% of the time and windows will not load.

Sorry if i hijack your thread, but maybe someone can help us both!

AI Tuning= Manual
Memory Clock Mode=Linked
xFSB Memory Ratio= Auto change this to 1:1
FSB (QDR)=1333
Memory= 888
Actual Memory (DDR)= 888

CPU Core Voltage=1.4V
Memory Voltage=2.1V
1.2V HT Voltage=1.3V
NB Core Voltage=1.4V
SB Core Voltage=1.5V
CPU VTT Voltage=1.5V
DDR II Controller Ref Voltage=Auto
DDR II Channel A ref Voltage=Auto
DDR II Channel B ref Voltage=Auto

CPU Multiplier 9x

Memory Timing
tCL=5
tRCD=5
tRD=5
tRAS=15
Command Per Clock=2T

CPU Internal Thermal Control=Disabled
Limit CPUID MaxVal=Disabled
Enhanced C1=Disabled
Execute Disable Bit=Disabled
Virtualized Technology=Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedTec=Disabled
LDT Frequency=5x

Spread Spectrums all diabled
SPP MCP clock set to 200MHz

Both of you guys are overclocking the ram and with 4gb thats not good. You just need to play with the different memory settings on this board (ch 4 page 20 in the manual)
until you understand the effects on the ramspeed. Change the settings and check the results by looking at the memory tab in CPUz, you want your memory speed 400mhz or lower in CPUz.

I would thinked the unlinked setting for ddr2-800 would look like this

AI Tuning= Manual
Memory Clock Mode=Unlinked
FSB (QDR)=1066
Memory= 800
Actual Memory (DDR)= 800

 

[ionoxx]

Doesnt work any more with unlinked... i tried that first...

 

[kb2114]

I'd go 400x8 with the ram at 800 1:1. At least on my 680i, 3.2ghz 1600FSB is 24 hour orthos stable.

 

[Mondoman]

Originally posted by: ionoxx
Doesnt work any more with unlinked... i tried that first...

What do you mean by that? Please list all your settings (we need the details).

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I'm guessing that this should be supported by members "Idontcare" and "coolamasta." We already been there, done that.

TO THE RESPONDENT WHO IS USING V.1305 OF THE BIOS: DUMP V.1305 until you buy a Penryn, and then try it again. In the meantime, use EZ-Flash to flash the BIOS to EITHER v.1301 or v.1303. V.1303 is harder to find at the ASUS web-site, but v.1301 seems to do everything that v.1303 does, and doesn't seem to have any bugs in it whatsoever. It may be that v.1303 works better with G0 Q6600 stepping. I have yet to find occasion to attempt trying, but I ran v.1303 with B3 stepping -- just fine -- for about six months.

TO THE ORIGINAL OP: FIND OUT THE MAXIMUM MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED WARRANTY VOLTAGE FOR YOUR RAM.

WITH THE RIGHT BIOS, AND EITHER B3 OR G0 STEPPING OF A Q6600 C2Q, THIS SHOULD WORK if your ram is CERTIFIED DDR2-667, DDR2-800, OR DDR2-1000:

[UNLINKED]
FSB = 1,334
MEMORY = 667
[This is 1:1 ratio that gets you to 3.0 Ghz]
VCORE = ~ 1.31875 to 1.32+V
1.2V_HT = 1.30V to 1.35V
NB-core = 1.30V to 1.35V
CPU_VHT = 1.30V to 1.35V

NOTE: You MAY be able to do fine with 1.2V_HT, NB, and CPU_VHT at "Auto," but it won't hurt to fix them at +0.05V above monitored "voltage monitor" reported values in BIOS when set to "Auto."

VDIMM = 2.10 to 2.150V for Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800 or higher depending on timings.

Set the VDIMM for your memory at 2.0V, and experiment in increments -- UP or DOWN. STAY WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED WARRANTY MAX. Loosen timings, x your fingers, and adjust voltage downward if that's your wish.

Then, bench-test with PRIME95 v.25.5

IF YOU DON'T WORRY ABOUT PUSHING VCORE BEYOND INTEL RETAIL-BOX MAXIMUM, A B3 STEPPING SHOULD WORK THIS WAY @ 1:1 ON STRIKER EXTREME:

3.2 gHZ:
FSB = 1424
MEMORY = 712
VCORE = ~1.418 TO 1.42+v
vDIMM = [PER YOUR MEMORY, looser timings mean lower voltage, 1T command rate means higher, 2T means lower, and typical voltage for your RAM may vary over or under 2.00V]

Expect to need 1.40V<= 1.2V_HT <= 1.45V; 1.40V<=NB-Core <= 1.45V; 1.40V<= CPU_VTT <= 1.45V.

In all these cases, you can set SB-core to "auto" (= 1.50V), 1.50V, or 1.55V

A G0 stepping may go beyond 3.2Ghz if VCORE(g0)< VCORE(b3)

Experiment with trimming the other voltages after you have it stable.


SLIGHT IMPROVEMENT IN (SYNTHETIC) BENCHMARK BANDWIDTH AT 4:5 RATIO -- EXAMPLE WITH 3.0 gHZ SETTING

KEEP ALL SETTINGS THAT ARE STABLE IN THE 1:1 CONFIGURATION FOR 3.0 gHZ.

SET FSB = 1,336
SET MEMORY = 835
USE TIMINGS AND VOLTAGE FOR YOUR MEMORY PER ITS SPECS.

If memory is comparable to Crucial Ballistix/Tracer RAM, you can probably set latencies to between 4,3,4,9, 1T and 4,4,4,10,2T with variants in between like 4,4,4,10,1T. Set tRC = tRP+tRAS, so in these resepective examples: 13 or 14. VDIMM needs to go up a notch for 1T command rate, and it needs to go up for 4,3,4,9 @ 835 Mhz.

With Crucial Ballistix or similar DDR2-800, you can set 4,4,4,10,1T,tRC = 14 @ 835 Mhz and VDIMM = 2.125V.

Thank me, and good night . . . .

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Bobbyfoo101 --

I can't help but ask this question. First, I'll say that I lived through a year of bad press on that board, and I stuck with it. The bad press wasn't because it was a bad board, but adding in the expense and "problems" people had with it, the critics would throw the price into the mix to exclaim "It's not only a piece-a-s***, it's a DOUBLE piece-a-s***!!"

But it works fine for me. I waited several months after it's release, analyzing customer reviews, looking at enthusiast forum posts, noting that the forum posts had a different "tone" than those of detractors in the customer reviews. Conclusion: unhappy-camper-customers didn't know what there were doing, or hadn't explored the forum posts.

If you buy a Cadillac automobile, you don't expect to do the tune-ups yourself, and quite to the contrary, you expect the dealership to provide EVERY-freakin'-THING. So the analogy doesn't fit all that well.

So my question: "Given the expense, given the customer reviews, given bad-press in those reviews and in these forums, [but good reviews at enthusiast review sites] -- WHAT . . . . ON EARTH . . . POSSESSED YOU . . . . TO BUY THE STRIKER EXTREME?"

Here, I'm not passing judgment, nor do I think that you "shouldna-shouldna dunnit," but . . . . I'm curious.

I'm holding on to mine for at least a while, you better believe-it.

 

[Idontcare]

@ Bobbyfoo101 and @ ionoxx

Hi, my name is idontcare and I am a recovering Asus Striker Extreme user.

Anyone who dares step up to this POS, er I mean ROG, motherboard needs to do a few things in the folllowing order:

1) Seek out and listen to BonzaiDuck. He be the sensei, you be the grasshopper.

2) Beware FSB holes! i680 chipsets (the one used on Striker Extreme) are notorious for FSB holes. FIRST thing to do (after doing whatever BonzaiDuck instructed) is to drop your CPU multiplier to 6X and go "play around" with the FSB settings in the neighborhood of where you think you ultimately are going to clock your multiplier.

This will ensure that if/when your system has posting/booting issues that you know it is your FSB (i680) having issues and NOT your CPU being incapable of handling the overclock.

For example, my striker would post but would not be orthos blend stable if the FSB was set to 300MHz or 317MHz but was rock stable at 266MHz and 333MHz. I blamed my CPU for a long time, then I underclocked it and walked up the FSB to get to stable "NB straps" and then re-overclocked my CPU at those stable FSB intervals.

Once you feel like you have figured out where FSB holes exist and where they don't exist, then go to step 3.

3) Now overclock the CPU by increasing FSB (and avoiding the problem areas), keep the memory timings loosey-goosey and "linked" and "sync". Doing Link and Sync will ensure the ram clocks are as low as they can go for any given FSB value.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

. . . . and lissen to Idontcare.

It is best to follow these time-consuming methodologies for finding the instabilities Idontcare mentioned.

You can short-cut in the meantime using "cook-book" prescriptions such as mine and those you will find in serious reviews of the Striker Extreme board. [One, of which I saw, took the board through its paces at every possible multiplier setting for an E6600 processor, providing all the details on voltage settings.]

But barring that, you're best to keep notes, and follow the methodology.

If you read the Anandtech article on the "Overclocking the QX9650" -- seemingly unrelated to your (my) configuration, it will even clarify further what Idontcare is saying here.

I'd like to provide a more thorough "bibliography" to some of the forum posts and reviews. The best review link is not at my fingertips, so you'll have to run some web-searches -- perhaps with keyword phrases like "over clocking Striker Extreme" -- sort through them for serious review articles while saving the "forum" links for later, and scroll through to see if the article "puts the board through its paces."

There is also an amazing "forum post" by an Australian who goes by the handle "EVA2000" at a forum URL "i4memory.com" or "i4memory.net." And actually, there are several such threads there. With pictures. With circles and arrows on the back of each one.

 

[ionoxx]

BonzaiDuck, Idontcare, thank you.

You guys seem to enjoy typing. Every single post i see from you guys are several paragraph long, and most of them enlightning.

I will attempt to load BIOS version 1301 or 1303, but first I would like to confirm something. I read from your posts that there were issues while flashing. I have 1305 right now. Is there a possibility that i'll scrap my board flashing 1301 or 1303 on it?

Thanks.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I've been flashing my BIOS's like eating cheap candy for about 17 years. At first, it was one of those focused, careful exercises like going to Holy Communion.

I never ran into trouble using the DOS-based flashing utilities, but I have recommendations below.

I started using "Asus Update" through Windows, and got too comfortable, expecting only to reboot uneventfully every time.

Even so, I've been over-clocking since around 2002. Even with the Windows program, I'd always been careful to set the BIOS back to default settings . . . . until . . . .

Until July, 2007. I forgot to set everything back to default. of course, the alternative operation would be to "CLR-CMOS" -- clear the CMOS according to the motherboard manual. In July, it would've been easy with the Striker: Shut-down; turn off PSU; remove power cable; enable the CLR-CMOS jumper; push the CLR-CMOS button on the motherboard; push the button again; optionally disable the CLR_CMOS jumper. [I've gotten comfortable leaving it enabled, because over-clock profiles in BIOS are not erased when the CMOS is cleared, for instance, by accident.]

So:

0) Make a note of all the custom settings in your BIOS screens that are not "default."
1) Always use a UPS/battery-backup system with your computer, or (please) make sure there's a minimal chance of power-outage while you're flashing the BIOS.
2) Either reset all BIOS parameters (involving voltages, speeds in Mhz, latency timings, etc.) to default, or CLR_CMOS.
3) Avoid using Windows-based BIOS flashing programs.
4) In order of ascending trouble and complexity, the best approach is to copy the BIOS file downloaded from the mobo-maker's web-site after unzipping it to a floppy disk, restarting the system, entering the BIOS, and using a built-in flashing program like ASUS' "EZ-FLASH." Even $60 Gigabyte boards have this feature in their BIOS setup. The next most reliable method involves making a DOS boot floppy disk, copying the flashing utility for DOS from the mobo maker's web-site to the floppy, and copying the BIOS update file to the floppy. Then, reboot to DOS with the floppy inserted, enter the name of the flash utility at the A:> command-prompt, and select the drive and BIOS file from within that program for flashing.
5) pay attention to the prompts on the screen, allow the system to reboot, and remove the floppy before the system post completes, while holding down the DEL key (for ASUS) or F2 key for INTEL boards to enter the BIOS.
6) If the system acts quirky, hit the reset button, or turn off the computer -- if necessary, turn off the power, remove the power-cord for 30 seconds, hook everything back up, and restart, following directions in (5). This isn't likely to happen, though.

If the system reports a check-sum error, it should prompt you to enter the BIOS setup anyway. But the indication that you've flashed properly is the indication in the flashing utility.

7) Reset your parameters to custom settings.

IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM, OR THE THOUGHT OF DOING THIS GIVES YOU THE JITTERS, USE THE SERVICES OF THESE PEOPLE FOR $27, and maybe pay the extra $10 for their little black-plastic chip removal tool:

BIOS Man

Those folks -- and there are other companies who do this equally well -- are good people. They'll mail you a PLCC chip flashed with your choice of a downloadable BIOS version, and you may have it in two days, otherwise three. Your initial purchase entitles you to a six-month "subscription" of an additional BIOS flash free with the return of your old PLCC chip.

If you have a BIOS flashing disaster, you could go forward with setting up an RMA with ASUS, but if you don't want to wait, it is highly likely -- nearly certain -- that you'll only need to order the BIOS PLCC chip from BIOSMan or elsewhere to replace the chip on your own -- and all will be well again.

 

[ionoxx]

Well, it's not the fact of flashing the BIOS that worries me. Is that I could swear I read somewhere that there were particular issues with flashing the 1303 BIOS on the Striker. Or was it going from 1303 to 1305... I don't remember.

I've been flashing motherboard BIOS' for years myself. I've never had a single issue. So far with ASUS Update, I've never had a complaint.

Cheers!

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I had no problem with version 1303. I bought a couple PLCCs pre-flashed with v.1305, holding them now for a Penryn change-over.

I suspect at this point that people who complained about flashing Striker BIOS's made the same mistake I did -- they didn't reset the CMOS.

 

[ionoxx]

I'll grab my USB floppy and give it a go sometime this week.

I tried to use the EZ flash in the bios yesterday but it didn't work. I would select EZ-flash in the BIOS, it asked me yes or no, and then when I selected yes, it would simply stay there frozen. I would have to reset the computer.

Any ideas?

 

[Bobbyfoo101]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone! Sorry I didn't post earlier, we had a freakin power outage for about 30+ hours!

Anyway, I'll try the suggestions posted here tonight when I get home from work, and I'll repost to let you guys know how everything is going.

P.S. BonziaDuck, I actually don't know why I got this board in particular. I saw mixed reviews on it from a couple of sources, but nothing downright damning, so I just went for it. It seemed like a really upgradeable board.

Thanks all!

 

[Bobbyfoo101]

OK, so I followed your advise BonzaiDuck, and I was successfully able to reach 3.0Ghz and keep it stable, I was not however able to get windows to load when going for 3.2Ghz. AT this point I'm just happy I broke 3.0. I think it had a lot to do with the RAM setting. Thanks agin for all the tips!

 

[ionoxx]

Ok... so i'm pissed.

1. ASUS update doesn't let you go back to older vertions.
2. EZ-Flash doesn't work... it fails to load out of the BIOS.
3. I use AWDFLASH to go from 1305 to 1303. Fails 10 seconds into the flash. Reboot... bios recovery, enter cd and voila... back to 0901.
4. AUS Update to 1303.
5. Reboot. And doesn't POST. All it does is turn on for 10 seconds and then cuts power for half a second and starts again.... and again and again.

I'm seriously pissed. Any suggestions before I RMA the board?

 

[ionoxx]

Aww hey.... now i get a bios screen... and that is it. its hangs after memory testing...

 

[Mozzie]

What revison of Striker do you guys have?

I have A2 and default Bios is 1301 shoud I change to 1305 or 1401?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I can't hardly believe it!! All these Striker aficionados!!

OK, Mozzie . . . . the question si "Which CPU are you running?" Maybe it's evident in earlier posts, and I'll scroll back through.

I went from v.1303 to 1305, and had the problems some others had getting above 2.8 Ghz when I'd had it OC'd for months at 3.2 Ghz with a B3 Q6600 stepping.

According to the ASUS web-site, v.1305 is supposed to "improve over-clocking for newer CPUs designed for 1,333 FSB." I can only guess that the processors referred to are G0-stepping 1,333 processors and Penryn Wolfdales. I flashed the BIOS back to v.1301, and my earlier OC settings are suddenly all viable again.

Three or four of us so far report the same, identical results. One member, whose handle is "Idontcare," was among those, but he apparently fried his Striker by shorting some solder-pins against the backplate for his phase-change cooling setup.

He moved on to a newer chipset and motherboard, saying he was a "recovering Striker addict." I'm not yet ready to join "Striker-Anonymous," myself.

I just wish I could get better performance out of these Crucial DDR2-1000 RMA replacements than was obvious from some DDR2-800 Tracers. Nothing to do with the board or the chipset: the 1000's need more voltage, and because of that, I haven't tested them at a 1T command-rate yet. The 800's were easy at 4,4,4,10,1T with VDIMM 2.125V.

Maybe I'll just run these RMA-replacements up to the max warranty VDIMM again. It took me two months before I got around to setting up the RMA.

 

[Mozzie]

"Striker-Anonymous" I like that lol

Sorry I didint provide you with any specs on my rig here you go:

ASUS Striker Extreme 680i A2
Q6600 G0
Gainward 8800GTX
2x1024Mb Corsair Dominator 1066Mhz
Thermaltake ToughPower 750W PSU
2x80Gb WD HDD RAID0
500Gb WD SATA
Zalman 9700 LED CPU Cooler
Gigabyte 3D Aurora 570 Case

Ok thats all lol I skip all external devices.

This is my second Striker so maybe im Striker Anonymus lol
First one I did fried still not sure why it burn I did overclocl (C2D E6600 to 3.8Ghz) I think my PSU burn and from there my CPU and Mothreboard my RAM and G/card survived.




Proof

No I'm runing my Q6600 on new Striker Rev A2 at 2.7Ghz but the big problem I have that my ram (2x1024Mb Corsair Dominator 1066Mhz) refuse to run at 1066Mhz.
What is the trick with 1066Mhz ram on this board I did try OCZ Reaper 1066Mhz same story BSOD when I want to run at 1066Mhz.

Thanx

 

[BonzaiDuck]

As i understand it, your best choices of CPU-to-RAM dividers (or RAM "multipliers") are 1:1, 4:5 and 1:2.

Against that, you choose how much you want to twist up voltages. If I had a G0 stepping, I wouldn't want to push the VCORE higher than 1.4 or 1.42V, but that's just my choice. So whatever CPU speed I could get that way, everything else would have to balance against it.

Same for the RAM. I'd rather not run my Crucials (either Tracer or Ballistix) over a VDIMM setting of 2.125 or 2.150V. I have good reason to think that the actual voltages for those settings is about 0.030V higher than the setting choices.

So, for me, the trick isn't getting my DDR2-1000's to run at 1000 Mhz [DDR speed]. The trick is to find the speed -- probably lower than 1000 Mhz -- where I have an optimal CPU-to-RAM ratio, tight latencies (and hopefully 1T command rate), and everything runs within those voltage preferences.

ABOUT THE DOMINATORS

Look for benchtest reviews on those suckers, or web-search for some forums showing whether people could get the CAS tCL = 3 at just above 800 Mhz. Don't try this until you've found some indication from others, but you might be able to run those things at 800 Mhz [DDR] with timings 3,4,4,9. If you twist up the memory FSB, then you might have to loosen the timings a bit.

 

[lopri]

question to OP & others: Is the issue occurring only when 4 sticks of RAM are used?