Q6600 overheats with Intel stock HSF !!!!

[rivbyte]

.... I have a MSI P-35 Platinum Mobo with a Q6600 high temps using a Stock intel fan....Huge heat problems..need to replace HSF...These temps are idle.

Tj.Max - 212 F / 100C
CORE #O 142 F / 60C
CORE #1 138 F / 59C
CORE #2 126 F / 52C
CORE #3 124 F / 51C

Just so you know...I am not a overclocker. I've heard that doing that sometimes unstabilizes the system..who needs that?

MSI=P-35/ Q6600 CPU/ Tried the intel Stock fan, created high temps, decided to try to find a Cooler with backplate to fit this board.

I know you all have lives other than helping me, and I could go to the geek squad....oh, jus kidding,but really, I never thought those push pins would be a royal pain in the B%TT!

Ok, This Bozo has had it.

Patience is wearing thin.
I tried to seat the Hyper TX2 Coolermaster HSF about a half dozen times and once I pushed down on two diagonal pins the other would pop out again, and I felt the board pushing down.

And if I have to use that much pressure for these pins..FAGITABOUT! Don't want to break the board!!

For the sake of not trying to double-post, So Sorry..I realized this after I posted to someones thread. I thought if i went into the mainstream, I'd get a lot more help. sorry bout dat'....




I almost went all the way through the small 3.5 Grm tube of Arctic5 Paste.

I should have listen, I know I should have, but this I wanted to be simple?.

I mentioned about replacing my stock Intel with a third party universal push pin type HSF. For all your newbies trying this at home?Install to Mobo BEFORE installing your Motherboard?WHAT? I hear some of you saying..? I told you so?..well. your absolutely right on! I have learned my lesson.


So, now the task of removing everything off the board. Pci-E GPU, a few PCI cards, memory,all the Sata,and IDE cables, case led/power/audio leads,etc.,etc.,etc.,.

My so called friend who helped me thre away the static bag for the Mobo, and worse, the protective plastic covers for the Q6600 cpu and the Mainboard cover.


Now that I?m ready to do this, is there any pother precautions? Is installing the backplate and the cooler hard to do for first timers?

I was told that Arctic freezer 7 pro or the Thermalright Ultra XP 120 are good choices. I know this is not rocket science, but I don't want to build a rocket with what little I know.

Here is my Mobo..

http://www.msicomputer.com/product/p_spec.asp?model=P35_Platinum&class=mb

Which HSF with the Backplate will fit this board? Any suggestions?
Most applications I see are for Intel CoreDuo2,...will this include the Q6600 Quad series as well?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[zero2dash]

1) You've almost went through a whole tube of AS5? Umm, too much I think? Applying too much is no better than applying too little; too much is a heat insulator and will give you heat issues just the same as not applying enough.

2) Freezer 7 for all intents and purposes is no better or worse than the TX2, it's about the same thing. Same push pins, same design, period.

3) If you want a better cooler with a backplate, get an Ultra 120, Ultra 120 Extreme, Tuniq Tower, or a Zalman 9700 (either one of them).

 

[myocardia]

Okay, before you do anything else, you need to know how to apply AS5. That 3.5 gram tube should last for 10-15 applications. Okay, now that you know how much to apply, and where to apply it, the rest is easy. Just remove your video card and any PCI cards, and lay them on the table/countertop next to your case, you do need not bags for them. That's all you remove from the motherboard, except for the case wires, SATA and IDE data cables, and power wires.

Now, remove all of the screws holding the motherboard down, and remove the motherboard from the case. Hold the board with one hand directly beneath the processor, and start applying massive amounts of pressure to each of the heatsinks pins, until they make a nice pop sound, which they almost always do, when they seat completely. Once you've got one pin seated completely, then seat the pin on the opposite corner, until they're all seated. If you don't see the white piece of plastic protruding through the pin (past it, in other words), push harder. The last pin usually requires about 35-40 pounds of pressure, though I'm sure it can be slightly different with each heatsink. Once they're all seated, put it all back together like you took it apart, and you'll have much lower temps.

BTW, the only reason you'll need/want to remove the heatsink is if you think you've applied too much AS5, the last time you attached the heatsink. If you used roughly the amount that Arctic Silver recommends, leave the heatsink attached to the board, and just seat the pins. Good luck, and welcome to anandtech.

 

[Quiksilver]

Originally posted by: myocardia
Okay, before you do anything else, you need to know how to apply AS5. That 3.5 gram tube should last for 10-15 applications. Okay, now that you know how much to apply, and where to apply it, the rest is easy. Just remove your video card and any PCI cards, and lay them on the table/countertop next to your case, you do need not bags for them. That's all you remove from the motherboard, except for the case wires, SATA and IDE data cables, and power wires.

Now, remove all of the screws holding the motherboard down, and remove the motherboard from the case. Hold the board with one hand directly beneath the processor, and start applying massive amounts of pressure to each of the heatsinks pins, until they make a nice pop sound, which they almost always do, when they seat completely. Once you've got one pin seated completely, then seat the pin on the opposite corner, until they're all seated. If you don't see the white piece of plastic protruding through the pin (past it, in other words), push harder. The last pin usually requires about 35-40 pounds of pressure, though I'm sure it can be slightly different with each heatsink. Once they're all seated, put it all back together like you took it apart, and you'll have much lower temps.

BTW, the only reason you'll need/want to remove the heatsink is if you think you've applied too much AS5, the last time you attached the heatsink. If you used roughly the amount that Arctic Silver recommends, leave the heatsink attached to the board, and just seat the pins. Good luck, and welcome to anandtech.

QFT.

Also to add, when you go to remove the heatsink to re-apply the AS5, don't just simply take off the heatsink and wipe the old AS5 off and re-apply new AS5. Instead using isopropyl alcohol (or Arctic Silver Arcti-Clean) and coffee filters to throughly clean the heatsink base and cpu before re-applying a new layer of AS5.

 

[hans007]

you probably dont have the heatsink install correctly.


the q6600 puts out less heat than the pentium D 820 . and it has a better heatsink in the retail box (it is more copper). i would say you have your heatsink installed incorrectly.

@ idle the q6600 is running at only 1.6 ghz at c1 halt assumign that is working correctly and shoudl only be putting out about 16 watts.

 

[Amaroque]

In my experience, the only negative problem with too much paste nowadays, is that it will squeeze out. The HSF has so much pressure on newer CPU's that it's kinda difficult to apply too much.

I know ppl will dissagree with me on that point, but try putting too much on, mount your HSF, run prime for 12 hrs, then take the HSF off. You'll have a milky white film, with any extra around the edges (that is as long as you mount the HSF correctly).

Of course, I don't reccomend putting too much on in the first place!

 

[Arkaign]

Well, forgetting the obvious (it *should* be workable with the stock heatsink), I have to say :

I *loathe* the pushpin design. Putting that much backpressure on the board actually causes it to flex. Doesn't make me comfortable. I greatly prefer the backplate design, as you get a solid and secure mount without flexing the board to hell and back. You also don't have to worry about the slim but real possibility of one of the tabs popping out, potentially damaging or disabling your processor (or heaven forbid, falling off completely and damaging your video card).

The best retail heatsinks I've ever seen were some for the AMD Opteron S939s. Stock w/copper + heatpipe FTW

 

[PolymerTim]

Originally posted by: Amaroque
In my experience, the only negative problem with too much paste nowadays, is that it will squeeze out. The HSF has so much pressure on newer CPU's that it's kinda difficult to apply too much.

I know ppl will dissagree with me on that point, but try putting too much on, mount your HSF, run prime for 12 hrs, then take the HSF off. You'll have a milky white film, with any extra around the edges (that is as long as you mount the HSF correctly).

Of course, I don't reccomend putting too much on in the first place!

That may be true with enough pressure and a thinner TIM. I've heard that the AS5 is much thinner than a lot of other pastes (like TX-2 or the waxy pads). The other thing to remember is that you still have to get the HS installed, which it sounds like the OP never did si I imagine he was left with a quite thick layer.

 

[Mondoman]

One key thing nobody has yet mentioned is that the little arrows on top of the push pins are for *removal* rather than for installation; thus, before installing, you need to make sure that each pin is turned completely in the direction *opposite* the arrow.
Here's a link to info on installing system components: http://www.tomshardware.com/fo...part-assembly#t1184072

 

[zero2dash]

Originally posted by: Arkaign
I *loathe* the pushpin design.

You & me both man.
Frickin' abomination of a heatsink assembly schematic.
I've said it before, I'll say it again - whomever came up with that crap needs to be handed his pink slip.

Even if running at stock I'd rather pay $40 for a backplate HSF or at least pay the $10 for the Thermalright backplate kit to use with a pushpin HSF.

 

[spacejamz]

you should take the fan off the TX2...it slides out pretty easy once you pop up the side clips...makes the installation much easier...

have a mild overclock on my Q6600 (2.7ghz)...my speedfan cpu temp w/ the stock HSF was around 48 at idle and with the TX2, speedfan shows 28 at idle...i did see somewhere where speedfan's temp sensor was 15 degrees off or something...

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Those idle temperatures, even for the stock cooler and fan, seem way, way too high. You know it; I know it; everybody probably agrees. There MUST be some shortcoming here per the installation of the stock cooling apparatus.

That being said, this should help:

Ultra-120-Extreme @ Heatsink Factory

Ultima 90 @ Heatsink Factory

Sunbeam Tuniq tower ranks about even with Ultima 90 in thermal resistance and performance.

Finally:

IC Diamond by Innovation Cooling -- micronized synthetic diamond T-I-M @ Heatsink Factory

I don't think I ever measured the improvement in cooling between stock cooler and any of these -- I only validated Anandtech's review results for the difference between the Ultra 120 original and the Extreme version -- a drop of about 7C in load temperatures.

The micronized synthetic diamond paste is worth about 2 to 3C degrees drop in CPU temperature over Arctic Silver 5 for a Q6600 OC'd to 3.2 Ghz.

 

[Gerr]

Try one of the Thermaltake Orbs or a similar Zalman designed HSF. They don't use pressure clips, but rather screw into the back plate. Makes mounting much easier. Not the best for high level overclocking, so you don't hear much about them. However they are much better than any stock HSF.

 

[SanDiegoPC]

Originally posted by: hans007
you probably don't have the heatsink install correctly.


the q6600 puts out less heat than the pentium D 820 . and it has a better heat sink in the retail box (it is more copper). i would say you have your heatsink installed incorrectly.

@ idle the q6600 is running at only 1.6 ghz at c1 halt assuming that is working correctly and should only be putting out about 16 watts.

I could NOT agree more. My Q6600 quad is overclocked - and it idles at 38-39 degrees C. Work it hard and it gets up to 50 or so. Prime95 is the only thing I have seen that will get mine to 60 - and it cools right down to the 40's immediately using the stock HSF and thermal paste that the chip came with.

Let it sit for a couple hours and it's back down to 38-39 degrees. If you're using the stock HSF and not overclocking, either you have the heat sink improperly installed, or voltage is not right.

 

[piasabird]

Might try one of these 7 reviews all 5 eggs. Cost = $12.00

Anyone else tried it?

Coolermaster

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16835103008

People are saying it works as good as a $50.00 cooler.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Originally posted by: piasabird
Might try one of these 7 reviews all 5 eggs. Cost = $12.00

Anyone else tried it?

Coolermaster

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16835103008

People are saying it works as good as a $50.00 cooler.

I make draconian pronouncements about these matters, so first, I'll say "that's probably what you heard, and that's what they're saying."

But barring compatibility with fans, inclusion of a fan in the bargain, ease of installation and appearance, the index of performance is "thermal resistance" (in conjunction with CFM through the heatsink fins, which can change that index.) For that, add noise as a factor.

I'm guessing many people make subjective judgments about cooler performance, but the only way to "know" involves taking sampled readings from CoreTemp (to file) under load conditions for an hour, dumping them into MS Excel (or other stat or spread SW), calculating the average and standard error, and comparing the results to other coolers on the same bench configuration.

Price is also a relevant decision-factor, and others have mentioned it while you imply it.

Cooling is more important for over-clocking performance, but highest over-clocking performance may require voltage settings that lead to electron migration and reduced longevity. For stability either at comparable over-clock settings or stock, temperatures within the processor spec and throttling spec can vary according to attention devoted to cooling, but they won't count too much. Obviously, consistently reduced temperatures will promote processor longevity if voltage settings and speed are within spec limits. Voltage within limit and speed beyond the limit with good cooling will still increase risk, or reduce longevity to some lesser degree.

Let me add something. Too little attention has been devoted to chipset cooling in these discussions, and I can submit my personal (air-cooling) experience that reducing temperatures significantly on the chipset may mean stable over-clocks on the processor with slightly reduced processor voltages. This would then reduce the CPU temperature somewhat or slightly.

So, like the "Hyman Roth" fictional prototype for Meyer Lansky in "Godfather II," I'll say this:

"We do dees tings becuz dat's . . . . da bidnis . . . . we're in!! Becuz . . dat's da bidnis we're in!!"

 

[Markfw]

Originally posted by: piasabird
Might try one of these 7 reviews all 5 eggs. Cost = $12.00

Anyone else tried it?

Coolermaster

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16835103008

People are saying it works as good as a $50.00 cooler.

Well, let put it this way, I think it's possible to coole like an ultra 120, just looking at it., and thats $42

 

[PhantomKnight]

Hello. I don't know if anyone here noticed my thread earlier, but it IS possible for the voltages to be way out. Mine where defaulting to v1.5, for a G0 Q6600!!! Anyway as someone suggested check the volts, because even the stock AUTO setting can cause this problem.

 

[rivbyte]

Hi all, and thank you for your two cents!

I bought a ZALMAN CNPS9500 > http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.asp?idx=193

Cookie Monster said, "Note: the fan of the 9500 is facing the memory, but it sucks in air so that it creates a "wind tunnel" effect. The air travels through the fins and then to the exhaust fan. "

So, the fan sucks in, and I was thinking it would blow towards the memory slots, but the fan is really reversed, sucks in and heated air blows out the back exhaust fan? (opposite the fan Prop blades)...In other words, install the prop fans facing the memory slots?

I really don't mean to seem stupid here, but when it comes to this, I do appreciate the help..BIG TIME. I did not know that the fan sucks in,,I thought it blew out?Thanks again!

 

[rivbyte]

From what I've heard, The HSF blades are facing towards the front case, (memory slots) and the warm air will exit from the front of the Fan towards the rear of the case exhaust fan.

 

[Amaroque]

If you don't like the way the fan is blowing, switch it backwards (180), and try that.