I've never installed laminate myself, and am not sure where you're located. However, if your basement is still cold, I believe it's a good idea to allow the flooring to acclimate to the temperature before it's installed, to avoid chipping and other problems that can arise during installation due to temperature differences.
i stopped at my bathroom door and my bathroom doesnt have tile yet... i think the steam from the showers is goin under the door and hitting my floor... i gots mold growing... i have rip out some pieces and check the damage 
I put mine in about a year ago... was my first time doing it, and am impressed with myself... my friends told me to write a book or a list of dos/don'ts but i'm lazy PM for pics if you're curious...anyway, here's a short list from what i can remember (i had a whole bunch):
1. make sure your room is "exactly" a square/rectangle. Even a small angle could change things when you get to the other wall ...of course, my place wasn't a square/rectangle to begin with, but that's another story
2. draw all over the subfloor for measurements - I leveled out my floor w/ leveling compound and drew where i had to fill the "valleys" and how high (ie. 3/16")
3. woodplank <- tapping (rubber) block <- tapping (metal) bar ... use in this order to avoid chipping (ie. you're hammering the tapping bar into the taping block, which knocks the woods
4. use broken/unused/damaged wood as test pieces when making an odd cut
5. use broken/unused/damaged wood as the "template height" to cut out door jambs
I'll update this as I think of more...good luck!
PM for pics if you're curious...anyway, here's a short list from what i can remember (i had a whole bunch):1. make sure your room is "exactly" a square/rectangle. Even a small angle could change things when you get to the other wall
...of course, my place wasn't a square/rectangle to begin with, but that's another story2. draw all over the subfloor for measurements - I leveled out my floor w/ leveling compound and drew where i had to fill the "valleys" and how high (ie. 3/16")
3. woodplank <- tapping (rubber) block <- tapping (metal) bar ... use in this order to avoid chipping (ie. you're hammering the tapping bar into the taping block, which knocks the woods
4. use broken/unused/damaged wood as test pieces when making an odd cut
5. use broken/unused/damaged wood as the "template height" to cut out door jambs
I'll update this as I think of more...good luck!
Originally posted by: captains
i stopped at my bathroom door and my bathroom doesnt have tile yet... i think the steam from the showers is goin under the door and hitting my floor... i gots mold growing... i have rip out some pieces and check the damage
That sucks. Once you clean the mold, you should be able to correct the problem by caulking around the edge of the floor.
Originally posted by: Chewy
I put mine in about a year ago... was my first time doing it, and am impressed with myself... my friends told me to write a book or a list of dos/don'ts but i'm lazy
1. make sure your room is "exactly" a square/rectangle. Even a small angle could change things when you get to the other wall
2. draw all over the subfloor for measurements - I leveled out my floor w/ leveling compound and drew where i had to fill the "valleys" and how high (ie. 3/16")
3. woodplank <- tapping (rubber) block <- tapping (metal) bar ... use in this order to avoid chipping (ie. you're hammering the tapping bar into the taping block, which knocks the woods
4. use broken/unused/damaged wood as test pieces when making an odd cut
5. use broken/unused/damaged wood as the "template height" to cut out door jambs
I'll update this as I think of more...good luck!
How has the floor held up? Do you have dogs?
I have already laid down some laminate in a 12 X 12 area. It was a little off square and I accounted for the difference using a jig saw.
No dogs, but have dog sat and stuff...running all over the place. No noticeable scratches, but that's cuz I bought the stuff that's real hard to scratch. The guy at Home Depot sold me on that wood when he took out a quarter and told me to try and scratch the wood with it. I tried, it didn't, so I bought it
overall, still looks brand new imoNot sure what you mean by jigsaw, but I accounted for the difference by shifting the floor X" to the side so that i had half a plank at either wall so that I could just cut them diagonally to fit the space (ie. trapezoid shaped)
Kelemvor
Lifer
- May 23, 2002
- 16,928
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I just put a new floor in my kitchen last year. Wasn't too bad but took a while since I did it by myself. Just a lot of running up and down the stairs to cut the pieces to length. I didn't have a special tool to hit them into place, I just use a scrap piece of flooring as well.
Kitchen_Before.jpg
Kitchen_After.jpg
Also painted the cabinets and put on a new countertop...
EDIT: Another view with more floor.
Flooring.jpg
Kitchen_Before.jpg
Kitchen_After.jpg
Also painted the cabinets and put on a new countertop...
EDIT: Another view with more floor.
Flooring.jpg
Looks really good. Good work.
I am looking to do my entire basement and the stairs between the basement and the main level.
Well I got the floor down in the basement. I still have caulking, transitions and quarter round to do, but the laminate floor is done.
Has anyone done laminate on stairs?
Has anyone done laminate on stairs?
Officially no.
The seams between the planks are quite water resistant. The laminate covering is water proof (unless it has been damaged). The biggest exposure points are the edges of the floor. Standard caulking will lower that risk somewhat.
However, you may not want to use laminate in an area that has lots of exposure to liquids and moisture (bathroom, laundry room and kitchen). If you do choose to, then caulking is a must.
Buy a bunch of saw blades, I went through 2 good carbide blades in my mitre saw when I laid about 1500 sq. ft. of this stuff last year.
I am in the process of doing this myself. I bought a Dewalt 12 inch Miter saw. and 1 80 tooth blade. I also bought a table saw to make the rips easier, I can tell you, that the table saw is getting more of a work out that the miter saw.
Get Plenty of blades, as they will dull fast. I also laid roofing felt under mine, as an extra layer. I acts as a good insulater, and bugs hate it.
Get a good set of knee pads. your knees will thank you.
Use a good, WHITE, rubber mallet to knocknin the transition pieces, as a black one will leave marks, and a hammer will damage the pieces
Get Plenty of blades, as they will dull fast. I also laid roofing felt under mine, as an extra layer. I acts as a good insulater, and bugs hate it.
Get a good set of knee pads. your knees will thank you.
Use a good, WHITE, rubber mallet to knocknin the transition pieces, as a black one will leave marks, and a hammer will damage the pieces
-wear a mask, it is very dusty
-Mitre saw will make your life alot easier
-get some good laminate board, it make a diff
-Mitre saw will make your life alot easier
-get some good laminate board, it make a diff
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