In the UK you pay only for 'Actual power' used (Electricity companies are not allowed to charge domestic customers penalties for low power factor). That means that you pay the same whether you use a PSU without PFC, passive PFC or active PFC. In fact, you may pay more for one with active PFC because the active PFC circuit can use up to 10 W [*], though improvements in other parts of the circuit may offset that.
[*Efficiencies of several active PFC designs are about 95%. I've seen several low-cost PSU manufacturers quote lower overall efficiency for their active PFC supplies, than their base models - e.g. 70% for standard model, 65% for active PFC model]
The EC requires that PSUs of more than a certain power (100 W I think) must have PFC (either passive or active), with plans to lower the limit to 30W or less. The electricity companies recognised the problems that low-PFC PSUs caused, and legislation was quickly put in place to help preserve their network capacity.
What are the specs of your machine BDSM?
As a comparison, my system Athlon XP 2500+, 2x 7200rpm drive, Radeon 9700 uses 130W idle and 180W load (200W peak during optical drive access)
An older Athlon 1000, 2x 5400 rpm drive, GF2 GTS, uses 90W idle and 120W load, with an old Celeron 766, 1x 5400rpm drive, i810 graphs uses 45W idle and 50W load.
The big power consumers are the CPU and the graphics card. Hard drives uses a small amount. Optical drives are largely irrelevant as they only use significant power when actively operating (and even then they take big loads when accelerating). Minor components e.g. most expansion cards, fans (apart from the impractical 'overclocking' grade fans), RAM, etc. use little power
To save power, I'm afraid it's a matter of changing to lower powered components. Unfortuantely, laptop power-saving components have not made it to the desktop - these technologies are expensive (mains electricity is cheap, but batteries are very expensive).
As a bit of a fudge, one option (if your motherboard supports it) is to 'underclock' your CPU and 'undervolt' it at periods when you don't need maximum performance - you should be able to achieve savings of up to 10-20W this way.
You may have a lot of accessories that individually use almost negligable power (e.g. speakers, network hubs, USB hubs, etc) - however, together these can be a substatial draw - particularly if they use low-efficiency transformer based power supplies. E.g. I have a USB digital radio (but it needs its own PSU to power it's electronics). The PSU is 5W - but at all times when plugged it it draws 5W. Under load testing with a resistor, it may draw as much as 15W under 5W load. I used to have about 8 similar peripherals before I rationalised things, amounting to about 40W of 'standby' load serving no useful purpose.