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PSA: Kitchen cabinets

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I think he meant when installing cabinets like these. If thats the case then you would not need any of those tools to install these RTA cabinets.

yea if all you are doing is installing you need a drill a lvl and a friend to help you lift stuff

also beer
 
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I think he meant when installing cabinets like these. If thats the case then you would not need any of those tools to install these RTA cabinets.
I did need my Jigsaw for cutting the hole in the butcher block for the sink. And also for cutting the rail system for attaching the cabinets to. The rail system is what sold me on the cabs. Pop off the covers, unbolt the cabs, and simply put the new cabs onto the rails and bolt back on. We had dark wood cabs for 20yrs, tired of the look. Went white and stainless for most things. Ikea does have a warranty on them, but I have no idea what type of issues would not be covered.
 
I did need my Jigsaw for cutting the hole in the butcher block for the sink. And also for cutting the rail system for attaching the cabinets to. The rail system is what sold me on the cabs. Pop off the covers, unbolt the cabs, and simply put the new cabs onto the rails and bolt back on. We had dark wood cabs for 20yrs, tired of the look. Went white and stainless for most things. Ikea does have a warranty on them, but I have no idea what type of issues would not be covered.


I think Ikeas faces are built a little better than the chinese cabinets. But the chinese use plywood for the box and shelves so they have an advantage there.
 
I think Ikeas faces are built a little better than the chinese cabinets. But the chinese use plywood for the box and shelves so they have an advantage there.
Here is how I rationalized things. The box and backing cost almost nothing, all the money was in the faces. I could very quickly replace all of them for very little expense. Since I own my home, and self insure, that is a significant factor to me. That replacement costs for something be very manageable. And after doing the demo, I was also very certain I was not doing things the old school way myself. Modular just made more sense for my situation.
 
Biscuits for the faces or something like a kreg?
I am still working a face design. I may go with an overlay on the corner details that mimics the Shaker door, 1/4" high.
Then I can simply fir strip, glue and screw the ply, and glue on some 1/4" thick pieces of hardwood at the corners. I have to make a mock up to see.
 
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Are they solid wood or particle board?


What/which?

Ikea has some hardwood faced cabinets but the box's are pressed/particle board.

Most of the chinese ones are also hardwood faced with plywood box's.

Make sure to read any specs before ordering if you prefer one over the other. If it does not say and they will not tell you 100% then assume the worse. Also some plywood is 1/2" while others are 5/8" or even 3/4".
 
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