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Post but can't get into BIOS- PLS Help guys

L

lavagirl669

Diamond Member
Ok guys, this one is driving me nuts already....what will be next?.....aaargh!

:bawl:

I just installed a new LanParty 875ProB board with all specs below
except RAM sticks were either BAD or Incompatible (posted in Corsair compatibility forum on that one).

I hit start and get the Post screen which shows the following
Phoenix - Award BIOS v6.00PG, etc etc

Main Processor: Intel(R) P4CPU 2.80Ghz
Mem testing : 524288K OK
CPU Brand Name: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4CPU 2.80Ghz

Hyper-threading Technology CPU detected HT enabled
Cpu ID:
Mem Frequency 320MHZ
(Single Channel Dynamic Mode Enable) *has a temp Kingston 512MB/PC2700*
Current System temp: 30C/86F
CPU Temp: 35C/95F
Current CPU Fan Speed is: 2636 RPM
IDE Channel 0 Master: WDC (#'s)
IDE Channel 0 Slave: (not installed yet) Seagate below 120GB
IDE Channel 1 Master: Sony DVDRW DRU 530A 1.0d
IDE Channel 1 Slave: Sony CD_RW CRX320E NYK1

CMOS Checksum error - defaults loaded

Press F1 to continue, DEL to enter setup

****I get this Post Screen, then I tried pressing DEL screen goes black, then a few minutes and then monitor gets a "no signal" msg and that's it....nothing else
****Tried F1 - Same story - Nothing

***Tried clearing CMOS jumper and waiting 5 min and resetting -
Same story
***Tried clearing CMOS Jumper, removing CMOS battery, Ram, and Vid card
even ATX header then hitting PSwitch and holding down "Insert" and then tapping DEL to do a "hard clear"- same thing Nothing after POST 🙁

I can't get into BIOS or Setup! I don't know what is wrong, but I have reset everything on this system 3 times already first discovering Ram was bad and finally getting system to POST, but now this.

Help please......eternally grateful.....

Lavagirl 🙂
 
Another tactic. Pull you SATA drive (just disconnect them) and thier power leads. Attach your PATA 120 IDE Gig drive to IDE as master alone on primary IDE. Use only one optical as master IDE2. Just for giggles try a different video card if you can. Try clearing cmos, but no hard clear this time. Just clear with the jumper, and move back to retain. Sometimes you can get that blank screen and it will reset to "safe default speed" because your jumper was not moved back to the retain position. Possibly you could try this without unattatching your raptors first just to see if it will clear up the problem. If not try a regular PATA HDD alone like mentioned above. This is a 'minimal config basic' system, where you have only 1 stick of ram, one HDD (PATA), one optical. I see that your ram upon post is being downclocked to safe speeds - which suggests that the bios sees something it doesn't like. Could be that it's looking for your raid array with thee raptors too. Im not sure if that board has a jumper to have set on the board for raid, but that may be the case. Some boards require that you have to have it set up with a jumper as well as in the bios. SInce you are having a problem just being able to get into the bios - this is why if you have a regular pata IDE hdd it's good to use that to eliminate your board from looking for raid. A simple setup is best to use to try and troubleshoot a post problem of any kind. So try a minimal config setup if you can. This is how I would approach it-


1. Disconnect Raptors - connect IDE HDD as Primary master alone on IDE1, one optical alone on IDE2 as master. Check your manual for a hardware raid jumper on the motherboard. Perhaps someone here has the DFI LP Intel board and can shed some light on this.

2. Still not working, try another video card, and another ram slot .


*Got to get to work, will check in later today. Good luck. Im sure others here can also help - got to be people here with that mobo.
 
Thanks Hoot I'll keep you posted.

Guys? Anyone here with thoughts on this could you please help?

This thing is really getting to me and would appreciate ANY feedback, thanks.

Maybe I need to Flash the BIOS?
 
Have you tried different memory? The thing that throws me is reporting the memory to be at 320 MHz. Flashing the BIOS wouldn't hurt either- it should reset everything to defaults.
 
Originally posted by: Sideswipe001
Have you tried different memory? The thing that throws me is reporting the memory to be at 320 MHz. Flashing the BIOS wouldn't hurt either- it should reset everything to defaults.
Click to expand...

she has another thread wherein the cheapo psu(now since replaced with a quality part) *flashed* upon init boot..probably a short in either the now-replaced psu, or ? ..either way ..2 modules of Corsair got zapped..possibly other parts as well..
 
ok so a PSU problem?

I just found out from that those Corsair sticks are NOT compatible, so with my Kingston
single stick in there I at least get a POST screen and did not before.

I RMA'd the sticks, so now need to look for different sticks.

I have a backup 300w PSU, but don't think it is enough for all of my components, but
I could try a barebones boot from that.

But do you think my Kingston may have gotten "Zapped" too?

?

sigh.....
 
Originally posted by: lavagirl669
ok so a PSU problem?

I just found out from that those Corsair sticks are NOT compatible, so with my Kingston
single stick in there I at least get a POST screen and did not before.

I RMA'd the sticks, so now need to look for different sticks.

I have a backup 300w PSU, but don't think it is enough for all of my components, but
I could try a barebones boot from that.

But do you think my Kingston may have gotten "Zapped" too?

?

sigh.....
Click to expand...
the psu you had in the case that came with the case..that was the one that went *poof* ..which most likely nailed the Corsair..or possibly the Corsair was bad..either way..I'd rma the mobo if possible or test with a lower..cheaper proc..then hope the mobo doesn't nail the spare proc..
 
PSU didn't come with case.

I just bought the new Antec 510W True PSU.....

I think the Ram sticks were bad because my Kingston worked and at least got me a POST
screen even with that Flash....

any other ideas greatly appreciated, thanks man 🙂
 
Originally posted by: lavagirl669
PSU didn't come with case.

I just bought the new Antec 510W True PSU.....

I think the Ram sticks were bad because my Kingston worked and at least got me a POST
screen even with that Flash....

any other ideas greatly appreciated, thanks man 🙂
Click to expand...

You have a lot of threads running concurrently and my thought processes just went on that merrygoround..not even sure which thread apllies to which trouble you are working out at the moment..was the proc from the original *poof* mobo..the one that had a 480 watt psu..?
Originally posted by: lavagirl669
thanks waitman....

I believe that is the problem too....

One thing that happened, one of those tiny little barrel shaped metal pins on the MOBO
came off or was loose somehow, and now I'm a little worried that it might cause problems
or a short.

Any thoughts?

hmmmm.....
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
this isn't the mobo you are dealing with at the moment..?
 
No this isn't that board...this is a new LanParty Pro875B

I tried an alternate PSU 300W with bare component boot, and same thing.

I keep getting
"CMOS checksum error"

I'm thinking a couple things.....
RMA the Antec PSU because of the "flash"
RMA the board and go with either a new one (seems like a BAD board)
Or go with a different board completely
Already planning to RMA the Ram sticks because they are not only suspected BAD but
incompatible with board according to another forum more familiar with DFI stuff.

Jeez....how can I have such dam bad luck?

🙁
 
Don't be too hasty in replacing the power supply.
Bright, room filling electronic flashes, and/or large billowing plumes of white or black smoke are no reason to replace the PSU.

Only loud explosions that bulge out the sides of the case are possible cause for concern, but even these may prove to be false indicators.

I would try replacing various components into your system to see if you can reproduce the flash, just to be sure.
 
If you have time to wait, I'd get a refund for everything and start all over again. That's if there's no shipping/other charges you have to pay. Good Luck.
 
Originally posted by: 3LEMENT0
If you have time to wait, I'd get a refund for everything and start all over again. That's if there's no shipping/other charges you have to pay. Good Luck.
Click to expand...


I think the best thing to do is actually use, borrow, or just order a cheaper motherboard as a test board. Something that's about $50.00-$65.00. That way if the other board boots up you know that all of the other components are fine. One that will run the P4 chip. I would get this ECS motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=13-135-152&depa=0

-as a tester, and if it's not needed later after all is well just RMA it to newegg and get the money back. I always have test equipment to rule out bad parts. Works every time. Not a bad investment. The 865 ECS board will run the P4. If one can be borrowed that's great too. If the ECS board runs and the DFI won't then you could choose what board you really want to use (maybe another DFI board - or a Abit, or Soyo or Epox, or the Asus 875P) then send the ECS back for refund, or sell in in the traders forum.
 
Thanks guys....and my thoughts exactly Lemento

I RMA'd all of it back to NewEgg.

Got to wait about a week now for the replacement parts and that sucks, but oh well....

It is weird that so many components in one shipment could be bad...is this normal?
I know I did the install right, this is not my first....
 
I dont think they were all bad. Probably just one or two things possibly. But I guess if you want to be sure. What are you getting now?
 
Well because I ordered it all from NewEgg, unless I want to pay a restocking fee
I had to do a Repair/Replace RMA
and I did a Refund RMA for the Ram sticks.
I ended up RMA-ing everything including PSU because that "Flash" when hitting the Power switch on
the PSU was suspect.
PSU, CPU (just in case), Corsairs, and DFI board.
You're right, they were probably not ALL bad, but I suspect at least a couple were.
Just have to wait and see now.

What really gets me is I went to the forums that were suggested with the Corsair guy on them
and was told that the XMS Corsairs I had were NOT compatible with that board because they
were ECC Registered.
However, I had emailed DFI 2 days ago, and they just replied saying the sticks are totally
compatible!
They said those are the ones they use the most in their labs!
So instead of paying NewEgg the restock fee on the Ram, I could have had them replaced
as they were obviously BAD 🙁 Dam!

I do want to order a backup Mobo though, should I go with an Abit, or just a cheapo for testing
purposes?

*Edit*
If my Vid card is part of the problem why would I get a Post screen?
I got the ATI Radeon 9800Pro less than a month ago, and have not had any problems....
I bought it direct from CompUSA, would I have to go through ATI to RMA that if it is bad?
Geez....worse case scenario isn't it?
 
Well, I guess that's a call for you to make. If it were me. I would order another one that I liked with the RMA, and order a cheaper one that should work fine for backup just in case. Truth be told your new board and parts should work just fine. Abit is certainly a good choice. I don't like the active cooling fan though - because Im a big stiggler for silence. But the Abit's and Asus boards are really good (875p-865PE series). If you liked the DFI I would be willing to try another, but use some Kingston Hyper-X or Mushkin Level 1 or 2. IF I were to buy or use an Intel board it would probably be The Asus 875p, and I would have the ECS as backup (ECS 865 PE at newegg) just in case. That way if you just happnened to get two bad eggs in a row, before you went totally bezerk the ECS would probably work out just fine... for while anyway. and the chances if the ram working on somthing you had (either the DFI, Asus, or ECS board) would be greatly increased). If you really want to be sure that everything works you can buy a PC at ABS computers here

http://www.buyabs.com/

You would get basically the same price and it's ALL warrantied, and they get all of thier stuff with newegg (they are affiliated with newegg) and they also have very good ratings. You can fully customize it there too, and it's alot like as if you built it yourself, and you can tinker with it later as upgrades are easy (just like BYO). Since you have gone through so much already it might be a welcome relief for you. I can tell Roger Wong to look out for you too (He is in customer service there). If you want tot DFI LP they can do that for you.
 
Whenever I build a new system the first thing I do is test the motherboard. On the workbench power supply motherboard on the antistatic bag it came in, one stick of ram and the video card connected to the monitor. If the board boots and gets to bios then and only then do I mount the board in the case. The ten minutes you spend hear can save a lot of grief later on.


The Grump
 
Yep, that's the way to do it, and really - having a backup part or two is nice. I usually have parts.
 
Thanks again 🙂

Yes Grumpy that is the FIRST thing I'm going to do when I get the new board!!

As far as another PC Hoot, I'm not equipped $ wise right now for that...these parts have already
taken their toll on the wallet *yikes*!
But I will look into a backup board and your ideas are great.

Will keep you posted, thanks so much!

P.S. I do have backup PSU, CPU, Vid card, Sound card and Ram so all I really
need is the board! 😱)
 
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