Plumbers - What parts do I need here?

[JM Aggie08]

TL;DR: My water softener is a piece of shit and I'm replacing it.

I'm struggling to determine what fittings I need to keep, remove, and purchase. The softener loop was installed at the time that I had the current softener installed:



Both the current POS and new softener I'm planning to get have 1" male inlet/outlets, the difference being that the connectors on the current softener are vertical and the new are horizontal.



At a minimum I'm going to get 2 metal hoses, but not sure what other fittings to get to plumb in the new softener. Halp plz.

Hugs and kisses.

Moved from OT.
admin allisolm

 

[waffleironhead]

It really depends on code where you are, but where I live im allowed to use flex lines to make the final connection.
Its hard to tell what your current pex line size is, but assuming its 3/4", you could cut out the existing fitting and use a push and go type hose.
SharkBite 24-in 3/4-in Push-to-Connect Inlet x 1-in FIP Outlet Corrugated Stainless Steel Water Softener Connector in the Appliance Supply Lines & Drain Hoses department at Lowes.com

alternatively, you could keep everything and get a short brass nipple and then use a fip to fip hose.(or a mip to fip hose if they have them) fip=female iron pipe thread mip=male iron pipe thread
EASTMAN 18-in 1-in FIP Inlet x 1-in FIP Outlet Corrugated Stainless Steel Water Heater Connector in the Appliance Supply Lines & Drain Hoses department at Lowes.com

EDIT: just saw that current is 1" as well, so just replace my suggestions with new 1" to 1" hoses.

 

[Captante]

It really depends on code where you are, but where I live im allowed to use flex lines to make the final connection.
Its hard to tell what your current pex line size is, but assuming its 3/4", you could cut out the existing fitting and use a push and go type hose.
SharkBite 24-in 3/4-in Push-to-Connect Inlet x 1-in FIP Outlet Corrugated Stainless Steel Water Softener Connector in the Appliance Supply Lines & Drain Hoses department at Lowes.com

alternatively, you could keep everything and get a short brass nipple and then use a fip to fip hose.(or a mip to fip hose if they have them) fip=female iron pipe thread mip=male iron pipe thread
EASTMAN 18-in 1-in FIP Inlet x 1-in FIP Outlet Corrugated Stainless Steel Water Heater Connector in the Appliance Supply Lines & Drain Hoses department at Lowes.com

EDIT: just saw that current is 1" as well, so just replace my suggestions with new 1" to 1" hoses.

I've used those hoses with success under sinks and to connect appliance water-supplies in the past although I always just assumed it was legal to do so! (maybe I should actually check next time?)

 

[waffleironhead]

I've used those hoses with success under sinks and to connect appliance water-supplies in the past although I always just assumed it was legal to do so! (maybe I should actually check next time?)

There are some locals that forbid flex lines(chicago for example) for water heaters, so I always advise on checking before hand if you have a picky locality. You are good to go for sinks, fridge and washing machines etc.
Alternatively, california iirc requires flex lines because of earthquakes.

 

[JM Aggie08]

Awesome!

For the shark bite option, I assume that I cut above both the brass and pex fittings?

 

[JM Aggie08]

Like this?

 

[waffleironhead]

Awesome!

For the shark bite option, I assume that I cut above both the brass and pex fittings?

Yeah, I'd just cut midway on the pex line and go with a 1" sharkbite to 1" ffip hose.

 

[JM Aggie08]

I might take it a step further and install a valve on the inlet and outlet before the hose. That way I can shut off the water at the loop if I ever need to fully disconnect the unit again.

Really appreciate your help, man!

 

[Captante]

Not to thread-hijack but while were on "plumbing issues" lol

My ancient apartment sink developed a really stubborn clog and in order to get my "drain-snake" past the trap I had to take the pipe apart.

THIS literal "hack job" was what I discovered.... any inexpensive suggestions to bridge the gap and still make a decent seal? (sink/trap is draining into a 5 gal bucket till I figure it out lol)

 

[skyking]

do you still have that trap nut? clean it up, take it to the store and get the right size pipe and extend it. You might need to do a little bit more hacking and paint scraping.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-1...slPNcgG_HE1rHIvuinhoCzH4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[skyking]

I would try that before I replaced the whole drain basket and pipe. That is a can 'o worms.

 

[Captante]

I would try that before I replaced the whole drain basket and pipe. That is a can 'o worms.

Yeah I was afraid of that... doesn't help any that apparently whoever "repaired" the drain last time SNAPPED the pipe off instead of making a clean cut with a hacksaw.

Price is certainly budget-friendly! Will report back.