Please review my PC Build and Give me some tips.

[Sherlockwing]

Hi, this is my first attempt at building a PC, the goal is for me to play Battlefield 3 with Ultra setting(AA off), I will also play a few less demanding games on it(SC2 for example). I will OC the CPU/GPU but nothing beyond moderate level(say 4.3-4.4 GHz).

The Built is set and I already ordered the PSU & Optical Drive, the rest of the parts I will order during the week before Labor Day:

Category Item Price(from newegg.com)

Processor Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz $229.99
Motherboard ASRock Z77 Extreme 4 $134.99
Memory G.Skill Ares F3-1600C8D-8GAB(2X4) 8G $54.99 (Low Profile)
Graphics EVGA GeForce GTX 670 FTW $407.99
Storage Samsung 830 256G $228.99
Seagate Baracuda 3TB $149.99
Optical Drive LG Black SATA 24X DVD Burner $14.39 (Purchased)
Enclosure NTZX Phantom 410 $99.99
Power supply Seasonic X650 Gold $118.99 (Purchased)
CPUFan COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO $34.99
Monitor ASUS VG236H 23” 120Hz $329.99
Total: $1805
Budget left: 105.5

Please review my build and point out any red flag issues, if there is any replacement part recommendations I am willing to listen if it is within my budget.

A few questions of mine:
1. I heard mounting Cooler Master Hyper Evo 212 on ASRock Z77 Extreme 4 blocks the the first Ram slot, is that true and if so what board should I upgrade to?

2.On first boot can you use a USB Keyboard/Mouse?

3. Any general tip regarding what to do on first boot after you put the computer together?

4.I plan on clean installing windows 7 pro 64 bit into this computer using either a DVD(I burned the upgrade ISO onto it) or a USB with the ISO, if anyone have done this before please give me some tips.

 

[Ken g6]

Well, first, let's see what [thread=80121]sticky questions[/thread] you've answered:

1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.

the goal is for me to play Battlefield 3 with Ultra setting(AA off), I will also play a few less demanding games on it(SC2 for example).

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
$1910.5

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
USA someplace, based on Labor Day comment.

4. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.
???

5. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.

Optical Drive LG Black SATA 24X DVD Burner $14.39 (Purchased)
Power supply Seasonic X650 Gold $118.99 (Purchased)

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.

I will OC the CPU/GPU but nothing beyond moderate level(say 4.3-4.4 GHz).

8. What resolution will you be using?
1920x1080, evidently

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Note that it is usually not cost or time effective to choose your build more than a month before you actually plan to be using it.

Labor Day is on Monday, September 3, 2012.

X. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?
I guess not.

You got most of them.


I don't know if the Extreme4 with Hyper 212 Evo blocks RAM slots, but it looks unlikely with low-profile RAM like yours unless you point the fan upwards. It doesn't look like you have to do that in your case enclosure.

As for red flags, I've heard that 3TB drives are less reliable than 2TB models. That could have changed, but I doubt it.

Your CAS level 8 RAM probably isn't any better than CL9, but it's not much more expensive either. Your PSU is overpriced - Bronze is fine - but you've already bought it. And I guess you want that expensive monitor for 3D gaming?

There's currently a $30-off bundle between your mobo and your SSD. It's not likely to be there next month, though. Do you happen to live near a Micro Center?

 

[Bryf50]

Can save a few bucks with this RAM. Low Profile and can be overvolted/clocked very well.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820147096

2)Yes
3)Go through the bios before OS install. Make sure drivers are set to AHCI rather than IDE.
4)Up to you. You can use this tool to write the iso to a flash drive.

 

[Sherlockwing]

My Apologies for not reading the sticky questions, that was my first post here. I will answer those in Red if you don't mind:

Well, first, let's see what [thread=80121]sticky questions[/thread] you've answered:

1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
$1910.5 (I have a $2K Budget and already spent $69.5 on Windows 7 Pro 64(student discount) and reserved the rest for keyboard)

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
USA someplace, based on Labor Day comment.(Indiana, USA, more than 1 hour from the nearest micro center in Indianapolis. I currently plan on getting all the parts from Newegg but will scan Amazon/Ebay/Bestbuy to see if they have better deals, I heard Tiger Direct rebate is troublesome so I will ignore them).

4. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.
???(Intel & Navidia is prefered mainly b/c I don't like AMD professors and my last ATI cards let me down, however I picked GTX670 b/c it have the best price/performance, not out of brand loyalty)

5. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
This one is built from scratch, except my current laptop mouse.

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
Overclock CPU moderately(not going over 4.5 most likely), not overclocking Ram(haven't reserached much into that), Will Overclock the GPU, not sure how far yet.

8. What resolution will you be using?
1920x1080, I need the 120Hz more than the resolution as from all the BF3 PC Gamer I asked about 120Hz vs IPS swear by 120Hz and from what I read it is useful in fast paced FPS like BF3

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Note that it is usually not cost or time effective to choose your build more than a month before you actually plan to be using it.
I like to get a list down first then change parts depend on any price changes, this build is set as in I am no longer considering SLI/BlueRay Drive/Extra parts but I am certainly free to switch components to a different model.

For Example: 1. Yesterday this build included a 18.99 ASUS 24X DVD burner, this morning I woke up to a $14.39 shell shocker deal from Newegg and jumped on it.
2. Yesterday someone suggested I should grab the Seasonic 650W Gold over Corsair HX650W(my original plan) because the former is on a 15% discount temporarily and offers less noise/more efficient. I asked around on Techreport & Tomshardware about whether I should grab the deal and got multiple YES and 0 No so I jumped on that as well.


X. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?
I guess not.

You got most of them. I got Window 7 Pro, this won't be my work computer as I have my laptop with Office 2010 so that's not needed, I already have games I want on Origin and Steam, all the drivers should come in with the hardware, I will download the newest version onto a USB drive just in case.


I don't know if the Extreme4 with Hyper 212 Evo blocks RAM slots, but it looks unlikely with low-profile RAM like yours unless you point the fan upwards. It doesn't look like you have to do that in your case enclosure.

Nvm this, I found a video on newegg.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHlqieM_bgc&feature=plcp This guy's build basically have the same core as I do (CPU/GPU/Mobo/Cooler) and his Hyper 212 Evo mounted on Extreme 4 just fine with low profile Ram(which I have too).

As for red flags, I've heard that 3TB drives are less reliable than 2TB models. That could have changed, but I doubt it. I will consider that and read more reviews on it, currently I have 3TB because it have better $/GB, I also heard that 3TB problem was remedied by Seagate's newest drivers.

Your CAS level 8 RAM probably isn't any better than CL9, but it's not much more expensive either. Hmm, I will read a bit on that, If so I might get 4X4G G.Skill Ares with CAS 9 in the $89ish range. Your PSU is overpriced - Bronze is fine - but you've already bought it. And I guess you want that expensive monitor for 3D gaming? (I see a lot people asking this, actually I want 120Hz for FPS gaming, where I see legions of youtubers and gamers on symthic.com swear that 120 is significantly better than both 60 and IPS)

There's currently a $30-off bundle (I will see about that, but I won't be able to budget that until the last week of August anyway so I will pass), though. Do you happen to live near a Micro Center?(Not really, I don't consider 45 miles near)

 

[T_Yamamoto]

....you bought a $100+ PSU that will break around the same time as a $60 PSU.

Yes its an amazing PSU but I doubt you need that kind of power saving. Too late now

 

[lehtv]

CPU i7-2600K $270 @ Amazon
BF3 likes threads and so does your budget! It also overclocks to 4.5 more easily than 3570K.

Mobo Asrock Z77 Extreme4 $135 @ Newegg

RAM Samsung DDR3-1600 CL11 $40 AP @ Newegg
CL8 RAM is not worth the extra cost. This RAM commonly overclocks to 2133 CL11 @ 1.5V. You won't find a better deal if you miss this one.

GPU Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce $400 @ Newegg
EVGA 670 FTW is not so quiet.

SSD Crucial M4 256GB $190 @ MC
You won't notice a difference to Samsung 830.

HDD Seagate Barracuda 3TB $150 @ Newegg
Very nice $/TB.

Optical OK $14

Case Fractal Design Define R4 $110 @ Newegg
I view Phantoms as plastic toys, not real mens and womens cases. This case is designed with for quiet operating so it goes well the rest of the components picked here.

PSU OK $119
X650 is a fantastic unit if not very good bang for buck. Most useful if you aim to make the rest of the build silent at idle as well.

CPU Fan Thermalright HR-02 Macho $53 @ Amazon
Nearly as good as Noctua D14 for $30 less. Very quiet and cool at all load levels, 4.5GHz is a piece of cake.

Monitor ASUS VG236H $330 AR @ Newegg
Awesome.

= $1811 AR AP + shipping

And the keyboard: Razer Blackwidow $60 @ Newegg or Corsair K90 $95 AR @ Newegg

 

[riversend]

OP, since you have time before completing your build, check out either the Operating Systems forum here on AT for install tips, or my personal favorite is this site http://www.sevenforums.com/installa...ck-reference-list-installing-windows-7-a.html They are dedicated to Win7, and the linked list is a guide with links to a large number of tutorials to tell you how to do exactly what you are asking.

On my last build I used a bootable USB with an image of Win 7 64 bit on it and it worked like magic. It went so much faster than I remembered before that I almost dorked it up not paying attention. The only real trick I found was that to create a 64 bit install/bootable I needed to use my 64 bit laptop, not a 32 bit. Obvious maybe, but if you need to borrow a friend's machine to do it better to know now.

 

[Sherlockwing]

OP, since you have time before completing your build, check out either the Operating Systems forum here on AT for install tips, or my personal favorite is this site http://www.sevenforums.com/installa...ck-reference-list-installing-windows-7-a.html They are dedicated to Win7, and the linked list is a guide with links to a large number of tutorials to tell you how to do exactly what you are asking.

On my last build I used a bootable USB with an image of Win 7 64 bit on it and it worked like magic. It went so much faster than I remembered before that I almost dorked it up not paying attention. The only real trick I found was that to create a 64 bit install/bootable I needed to use my 64 bit laptop, not a 32 bit. Obvious maybe, but if you need to borrow a friend's machine to do it better to know now.

Actually I already copied the Win 7 Pro 64 bit ISO onto a USB drive, it was originally downloaded onto my Wind 7 Pro 64 bit(another copy bought 2 year ago) old laptop.

Is standard copying fine or do I need a special software to move into onto the USB?

CPU i7-2600K $270 @ Amazon
BF3 likes threads and so does your budget! It also overclocks to 4.5 more easily than 3570K.

Hmm, I will ask around and do some research on that, I like Ivy's lower power consumption and it does beat Sandy Clock per Clock.

Mobo Asrock Z77 Extreme4 $135 @ Newegg

RAM Samsung DDR3-1600 CL11 $40 AP @ Newegg
CL8 RAM is not worth the extra cost. This RAM commonly overclocks to 2133 CL11 @ 1.5V. You won't find a better deal if you miss this one.

Granted CL8 is not worth the extra cost but going to CL11 I don't really like plus I prefer staying with G.Skill or Corsair

GPU Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce $400 @ Newegg
EVGA 670 FTW is not so quiet. Hmm, I heard nothing but good things about FTW but will read a bit into FTW /MSI's PE edition &Windforce, I wish I could get ASUS DC2T but those are sold out.

SSD Crucial M4 256GB $190 @ MC
You won't notice a difference to Samsung 830.
Reason I grabbed Samsung 830 is that I heard their controller is more reliable than Sandforce and reliablity is pretty important to me, my other choice would be Intel 520 for its 5 year warranty but its $/GB don't measure up Samsung.

HDD Seagate Barracuda 3TB $150 @ Newegg
Very nice $/TB.

Optical OK $14

Case Fractal Design Define R4 $110 @ Newegg
I view Phantoms as plastic toys, not real mens and womens cases. This case is designed with for quiet operating so it goes well the rest of the components picked here.

Phantom is Tom'shardware.com award winner with the best accoustic performance and cooling http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/mana-136-midgard-ii-phantom-410,review-32451.html , I could careless about it having plastic parts.You are not the first one that recommended Definte R4 to me so I will read a bit more on it.

PSU OK $119
X650 is a fantastic unit if not very good bang for buck. Most useful if you aim to make the rest of the build silent at idle as well.

True, Noise level is one of the main reason I grabbed X650.

CPU Fan Thermalright HR-02 Macho $53 @ Amazon
Nearly as good as Noctua D14 for $30 less. Very quiet and cool at all load levels, 4.5GHz is a piece of cake.

How much better is it compared to Hyper 212 Evo, http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/LGA-2011-i7-3960X-Air-Overclocking,review-32380-19.html, Evo scored pretty close to Noctua D14 for $50 less.
Monitor ASUS VG236H $330 AR @ Newegg
Awesome.

= $1811 AR AP + shipping

And the keyboard: Razer Blackwidow $60 @ Newegg or Corsair K90 $95 AR @ Newegg

I am not going expensive keyboard this time, so don't worry about that.

 

[DSF]

Being able to do 2133 CL11 at 1.5V is pretty spiffy. It's just as fast as RAM that claims lower CL at 1333 or 1600.

I have to wonder, if this is your first attempt at building a PC, how do you know how much CAS Latency matters to you?

Also, this is a pretty nice video walkthrough of the Define R4:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VS45Yhjj4bY
I'd definitely take that over the Phantom if I were you.

 

[lehtv]

-----

 

[Sherlockwing]

Being able to do 2133 CL11 at 1.5V is pretty spiffy. It's just as fast as RAM that claims lower CL at 1333 or 1600.

I have to wonder, if this is your first attempt at building a PC, how do you know how much CAS Latency matters to you? Well, I knew the lower CAS the better and the same G.Skill Ram was used in Tomshardware.com 2K Performance PC this June: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/core-i7-3770k-overclock-geforce-gtx-680,3212-2.html.

Also, this is a pretty nice video walkthrough of the Define R4:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VS45Yhjj4bY
I'd definitely take that over the Phantom if I were you.

Well, I have watched these http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoaK_jIXksk & http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTY4fD6cHss for 410 and have been impressed. But I will check the Define R4 video out.

Regarding the CPU, I doubt I will OC to high level (4.5Ghz and above) that much that it will matter, but I will read a bit more on bit before making a decision. Prefer not to waste power when I don't have to.

 

[lehtv]

Hmm, I will ask around and do some research on that, I like Ivy's lower power consumption and it does beat Sandy Clock per Clock.

The lower power consumption only counts for 20-30 watts, the value of that pales in comparison to the extra threads for a BF3 enthusiast.

Granted CL8 is not worth the extra cost but going to CL11 I don't really like plus I prefer staying with G.Skill or Corsair

It's CL11 only due to the low stock voltage, every single kit can easily handle 1600 CL9. Most even handle 1866 CL9, and as mentioned, most are also stable at 2133 CL11. This RAM is manufactured at a finer 30nm process which makes it very overclockable.

Also, Samsung makes G.Skill's and Corsair's RAM.

Reason I grabbed Samsung 830 is that I heard their controller is more reliable than Sandforce and reliablity is pretty important to me

Crucial M4 is not a Sandforce drive, it uses Micron's (whose retail face is Crucial) own controller and its reliability is an established fact.

my other choice would be Intel 520 for its 5 year warranty but its $/GB don't measure up Samsung.

Even less to M4. I would pay maybe 10-20% more for extra 2 years of warranty. Plextor M3 comes close, it uses the same controller as Crucial M4.

Phantom is Tom'shardware.com award winner with the best accoustic performance and cooling http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/mana-1...iew-32451.html , I could careless about it having plastic parts.You are not the first one that recommended Definte R4 to me so I will read a bit more on it.

If you find the design is for you, by all means :thumbsup:. It does also have an integrated fan controller which is nice

How much better is it compared to Hyper 212 Evo, http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/LGA-20...-32380-19.html, Evo scored pretty close to Noctua D14 for $50 less.

I can't find a direct comparison, but the results depend on what review you look at.

http://www.hardocp.com/images/articles/13093076611gND1FuyVG_3_2.png
http://www.xbitlabs.com/picture/?src=/images/coolers/thermalright-hr-02-macho/zchart_diagr_big.png
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.p...sk=view&id=779&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=4
http://www.overclockers.com/wp-cont...-Macho-stock-performance-comparison-chart.jpg

It should also be quieter at load. The noise factor is the main reason I picked it. It was originally designed for passive operation, you could couple it with a very slow fan e.g. constant 500rpm and still get good results and overclockability.

I am not going expensive keyboard this time, so don't worry about that.

I figured a BF3 player with a $2000 budget might like it, guess not

 

[mfenn]

Is standard copying fine or do I need a special software to move into onto the USB?

If you literally just copied the ISO file to the USB key, then no that will not work. An ISO file is an image of a DVD, by itself it is pretty useless to normal software. You need to use special software to extract the image onto your USB device and make that device bootable. There's lots of ways to do it, but Microsoft makes an easy tool.

 

[riversend]

Actually I already copied the Win 7 Pro 64 bit ISO onto a USB drive, it was originally downloaded onto my Wind 7 Pro 64 bit(another copy bought 2 year ago) old laptop.

Is standard copying fine or do I need a special software to move into onto the USB?

As mfenn said, you will need to do more than just make an ISO copy. The USB drive should be created to be bootable.

The links I gave above have all the info you need, or go to the Microsoft site mfenn listed.

Of note, do not install the HDD until after you do the Windows install on the SSD. This will ensure no errors with the Windows install across multiple drives.