Pipe leaking. Easy way to fix? (pic)

[JEDI]

This pipe is the main water pipe to my house.

look at the rust on the metal tag. it's leaking somewhere around there.
what kind of valve is that?

and is there an easy fix that I can do myself?

 

[Greenman]

That's a pressure regulator. You can remove it by unscrewing the service union below it then unscrewing the device from the pipe above. Or you could buy a new one and just replace the guts without removing the old one.

The regulator might not be the problem. Look at the nail to the right of it. That big rust stain makes me think the seepage is coming from somewhere else and just landing on the steel tag.

 

[mindless1]

I can't tell from the pic, is it still dripping or do you just see evidence of prior leakage? Sometimes things like this drip for a short time then mineral deposits or corrosion seal them back up. Does the pressure seem acceptable like the regulator is doing its job?

If you just want to replace it, Greenman outlined the two options... don't know what to make of the nail as there is no discoloration or water visible above it.

With just that pic to go on, I would place a bowl under the tag and see how much water loss there is over the next few days.

 

[JEDI]

I can't tell from the pic, is it still dripping or do you just see evidence of prior leakage? Sometimes things like this drip for a short time then mineral deposits or corrosion seal them back up. Does the pressure seem acceptable like the regulator is doing its job?

If you just want to replace it, Greenman outlined the two options... don't know what to make of the nail as there is no discoloration or water visible above it.

With just that pic to go on, I would place a bowl under the tag and see how much water loss there is over the next few days.

yes, it's still leaking.
the metal tag is wet.

even if it's leaking a few droplets per day, I should get it fixed.

as for pressure, yes it seems the same.
if there's a problem with the regulator, does that mean water pressure will increase or decrease out of the faucet?

 

[JEDI]

That's a pressure regulator. You can remove it by unscrewing the service union below it then unscrewing the device from the pipe above. Or you could buy a new one and just replace the guts without removing the old one.

The regulator might not be the problem. Look at the nail to the right of it. That big rust stain makes me think the seepage is coming from somewhere else and just landing on the steel tag.

is replacing the guts as easy as taking off the 4 screws, removing the guts/faceplate, and popping in the new regulator guts/faceplate?

wished there was a youtube video on just replacing the guts instead of the whole regular.

 

[mindless1]

A regulator will usually get weaker and you'd be subject to higher pressure, but you can only get as much pressure as the incoming line so except for brief surges you might not even need one, or depending on the design it might stick shut too far and drop pressure. Any significant change you should notice at faucets.

Yes assuming a identical replacement you can just take the screws off and remove the guts, clean out any significant deposits (might require an acid cleaner and brush), clean off mating surface and reassemble. Areas where a gasket needs to seal, I'd use steel wool on to get as smooth a finish as possible. If they look corroded away like only copper is left of what is/was brass, a whole new valve will last longer but how many years vs cost and labor is up to you.

Depending on what is wrong you might be able to just use a rebuild kit instead, which should cost less. After locating a rebuild kit, and whole valve, both in stock at the local hardware store (confirmed stock) pick a time when water can be off for a few hours, take the old one apart and see if the parts that don't come in the rebuild kit are reusable. If they are then get the rebuild kit. If not get the whole valve. Some people would just buy both ahead of time and return to the store whichever they don't use.

There are some youtube videos for pressure valve rebuild.

If you wanted to be super cheap about it, there might even be only a single standard sized o-ring that needs replaced to stop that leak, minimal cost at a hardware or automotive parts store, though once you take it apart you might find the old gasket won't seal again but should be included in a rebuild kit.

If only using a washer, or you get a rebuild kit without any, put some silicone grease on the moving washer surfaces... not enough to glob off later, just a smear.

 

[Greenman]

is replacing the guts as easy as taking off the 4 screws, removing the guts/faceplate, and popping in the new regulator guts/faceplate?

wished there was a youtube video on just replacing the guts instead of the whole regular.

I've never taken one apart, I know there is at least one spring in there. Beyond that I got nothing. Also note that if you do rebuild it, you'll need to have a pressure gauge and a way to hook it up to a faucet so you can set the proper pressure, most likely 32psi.

 

[Humpy]

is replacing the guts as easy as taking off the 4 screws, removing the guts/faceplate, and popping in the new regulator guts/faceplate?

It never seems to work out that way. I wouldn't jump down that rabbit hole.

 

[feralkid]

It never seems to work out that way. I wouldn't jump down that rabbit hole.

Agreed; also it looks like it has been leaking at the threads on top and maybe also the sweated joint above.

Having the union just below makes it a fairly simple repair.

 

[JEDI]

my model seems to be watts 35b.
but it's beens discontinued and the website doesn't say what the replacement is.
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=5251
http://www.watts.com/pages/search.asp?keyword=pressure+reducing+valve&page=3

buy any 3/4" pressure regulator with female on top/male on bottom?

 

[Binky]

Replacing the regulator is a lot more complicated than rebuilding it - I would look for a rebuild kit first. I did a rebuild recently and it was relatively easy. Replacement is more of a plumber job, and the cost will probably shock you.

 

[feralkid]

Replacing the regulator is a lot more complicated than rebuilding it - I would look for a rebuild kit first. I did a rebuild recently and it was relatively easy. Replacement is more of a plumber job, and the cost will probably shock you.

Unscrewing a coupling is complicated?

 

[JEDI]

i read that LFN45B is the replacement for the 35B.
but has bad reviews on lowes + homedepot.

"makes the pipes HOWL when water flows"
"vibrations"

probably will buy the 35b off ebay

 

[JEDI]

ebay item seems like it's missing a union joint?

Can I reuse the union connection from my old 35B?

 

[Micrornd]

Yes, and it looks like you'll need to add a second.
That regulator appears to have male union halves on each end.

 

[Greenman]

I'd be sure you can find the other half of the unions before you buy that. I also wonder if it's worth buying a second hand part. Bite the bullet, put in a new regulator and forget about it for twenty years.
Edit: Just checked, a new 3/4" regulator is only $50. Even if you have to buy a copper cutter, a torch, solder, flux, and a few fittings, you'r still under a $150. It's a pretty elementary project.

Second edit: If you have to buy complete unions to get the nuts they're $27 each. More than the complete regulator. This just became a no brainer.

 

[JEDI]

I'd be sure you can find the other half of the unions before you buy that. I also wonder if it's worth buying a second hand part. Bite the bullet, put in a new regulator and forget about it for twenty years.
Edit: Just checked, a new 3/4" regulator is only $50. Even if you have to buy a copper cutter, a torch, solder, flux, and a few fittings, you'r still under a $150. It's a pretty elementary project.

Second edit: If you have to buy complete unions to get the nuts they're $27 each. More than the complete regulator. This just became a no brainer.

yeah but which 3/4" regulator?
reviews on the 35B replacement are horrible

don't want to go thru the process of buying any 3/4" regulator from Lowes, replace mine only to find a problem.
then undo what i did, return and buy another one.
want to avoid replace/return till one works without noise/problems.

 

[Greenman]

yeah but which 3/4" regulator?
reviews on the 35B replacement are horrible

don't want to go thru the process of buying any 3/4" regulator from Lowes, replace mine only to find a problem.
then undo what i did, return and buy another one.
want to avoid replace/return till one works without noise/problems.

I've never had an issue with a regulator. I tell the guy at the plumbing supply I want a 3/4" regulator and take whatever he hands me. I think everyone has been watts.

Looking at the home depot site, the one with 5 stars is only a hundred bucks.

 

[Humpy]

Yes, and it looks like you'll need to add a second.
That regulator appears to have male union halves on each end.

They are combo fittings, threaded on the inside for 3/4" NPT and threaded on the outside for a union.

The listing says it's new for $60. I'd buy it. It has the best chance of easily fitting the existing gap.

 

[JEDI]

They are combo fittings, threaded on the inside for 3/4" NPT and threaded on the outside for a union.

The listing says it's new for $60. I'd buy it. It has the best chance of easily fitting the existing gap.

so i just need to reuse the single union connector from my old 35B?
no need to buy anything extra?

 

[Humpy]

so i just need to reuse the single union connector from my old 35B?
no need to buy anything extra?

Shouldn't need much else.

There is a rubber gasket in the union that you will probably want to replace. The new regulator may or may not include one. The old one might even be reusable.

Some thread lube/sealant would be good to use on the male threaded copper fitting.

You'll want to have a decent 14" pipe wrench and a big adjustable wrench. The longer wrenches make it easier to control disassembly, but don't over do it putting it back together.

I'd expect the new one to be a drop in replacement for the old. It would be nice if there was a 1/4" or so of slack available in your pipes in case of any slight variances.

The biggest potential problem is probably the ebay purchase.

 

[JEDI]

the one on ebay got sold.
what happens if I don't do anything?
(it drips like a drop an hr)

 

[Greenman]

the one on ebay got sold.
what happens if I don't do anything?
(it drips like a drop an hr)

Most likely the leak will get worse until you're forced to take action. That could take quite a while though.
Or it could blow out and cause a flood. That will only happen when you're out of town or late Saturday evening.

 

[JEDI]

Watts 35bUS:

the model of my valve is 35bUS. (pic above, from my OP)
ebay has a watts 35bU-z3 model available. (pic below)

From https://www.fs.fed.us/fire/sdtdc/02511304/fig2.pdf:
35bUS = for solder union inlet x NPT female outlet connections
35bU = for NPT threaded female union inlet x NPT threaded female outlet.

the z3 is 'for sealed spring cage and corrosion resistant spring cage screws for water works pit installations.'

basically, Is the 35bU-z3 an easy replacement for my 35bUS?

pic:

also, the top part seems shorter than the top part on my valve?
if so, is there a way to extend it??