Parts for Battlefield 3 / workstation computer

[Zuallauz]

1. PC will be used for Battlefield 3, business work with graphics (logos, web development etc) so the color on the monitor needs to be as accurate as possible

2. Price limit is $2800 NZD for everything incl monitor which is $2200 USD plus or minus $100.

3. Buying from New Zealand (I'll lookup the cheapest part prices on pricespy.co.nz)

4. Brand preference is good name brands highly preferred for critical parts, e.g. they need to be reputable and "reliable". E.g. Asus for important things like the motherboard.

5. Intend on keeping my keyboard and mouse, a 2TB external USB 3 drive and an external Sound Blaster Digital Music HD soundcard.

6. Have read other threads and done some research. Bit out of the loop these days. Last time I built a PC was in 2004.

7. Will be running at default speeds and not overclocking (business machine needs to be reliable too)

8. Planning to game at 1080p minimum on BF3 at Ultra settings. Not too fussed about other games at the moment. Does this mean I need a faster video card?

9. Building ASAP i.e before Christmas.

10. Welcome all criticism and suggestions.

Here's my current build lineup:

At the moment I'm trying to bring the price down a bit any way I can without sacrificing too much speed or reliability.

Things I am not too sure on:
1) Monitor, currently the most expensive item, but I'm pairing it with a cheaper video card. Should I get a GTX 560 Ti which has DisplayPort? Is that going to improve quality over DVI dramatically? It's not a 10bit display so are we ok for bandwidth? Also are there any cheaper monitors that are really good for graphics e.g. have a really good colour gamut, ie 92%, 8-bit panel?

2) Any comments on the motherboard? Obviously I'm not keen on going too cheap for the most important part, is Gigabyte less reliable?

3) Is that RAM too cheap?

4) Any comments regarding a good flight stick? I like the dual hand controls of the Hotas X. I aim to fly in the jets or helis mainly.

5) Is thing going to play BF3 at ultra resolution?

Any comments much appreciated. If you suggest something I'll try respond by pricing it in. I've put the parts list on Google Docs if you wanted to edit, but comment here is fine. 🙂 Thank-you!

 

[coolpurplefan]

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1654043
Someone took the time to benchmark BF3 in real-world conditions. This is in 64 player maps online though.

It looks like a fairly competent list but with a list like that I might be tempted to go with G.Skill ripjaws but whatever...

 

[mfenn]

Your list looks pretty decent, but I'd make a few changes:

-I don't think that BF3's flight mechanics are complex enough to require spending over $100 on a joystick and throttle. This isn't Flight Simulator, it's much more arcadey.
- You've got a GTX 560 listed there, not the more popular and capable GTX 560 Ti. I'd say you'll probably GPU-limited at ultra with anything below a 6950 2GB or GTX 570.
- Don't plan to upgrade to SLI because 95% of the time you won't do it. It'd be better to spend $50 less on the mobo and $50 more on the GPU
- Make sure the RAM is 1.5V.
- There are plenty of less expensive monitors out there that are fine for games, but the U2410 is about as low as I would go for color-sensitive photo work.

Also, I think that the bottom right number in your spreadsheet is wrong. I calculated $1,037.

 

[Zuallauz]

Many thanks for the replies coolpurplefan and mfenn.

It looks like a fairly competent list but with a list like that I might be tempted to go with G.Skill ripjaws but whatever...

- Make sure the RAM is 1.5V.

Funnily enough the cheapest RAM at 1.5V is the G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3 PC12800/1600MHz CL9 2x4GB which is a bit more expensive but I've swapped that out, I'm guessing the CPU only supports 1.5v. Good catch thanks. :thumbsup:

-I don't think that BF3's flight mechanics are complex enough to require spending over $100 on a joystick and throttle. This isn't Flight Simulator, it's much more arcadey.

Probably quite true, though I'd like to play a few other flight combat sims like HAWX 1 & 2 though those are also arcadey, but it opens me up to that genre. Without the left hand control, how do you control the other jet turning and thrust, back to using the keyboard? Hmm

- You've got a GTX 560 listed there, not the more popular and capable GTX 560 Ti. I'd say you'll probably GPU-limited at ultra with anything below a 6950 2GB or GTX 570.
- Don't plan to upgrade to SLI because 95% of the time you won't do it. It'd be better to spend $50 less on the mobo and $50 more on the GPU

I think I could squeeze in the GTX 560 Ti, it's about $88 more. The 570 is pushing $150 to $200 more. If I dropped to a cheaper motherboard that doesn't require SLI, I'm having a hard time picking what model. Generally they start dropping off features and swapping out parts like the sound chip or the network card. I have no idea if the cheaper Asus models with a different Realtek chip are worse than the Intel ones.

- There are plenty of less expensive monitors out there that are fine for games, but the U2410 is about as low as I would go for color-sensitive photo work.

Well it doesn't have to be super perfect, I'm not a professional. Just would like it to be more accurate than your average 6-bit dithered panel. To be honest the U2410 might be over the top for what I'm doing. The next best option looks like the Dell UltraSharp U2312M at $343 (NZD). What do you reckon? 82% of NTSC color reproduction, still IPS panel, $453 cheaper. I suppose I'd be missing an extra 1" viewing on top of the screen but I can live with that. Color doesn't have to be super professional level, just good enough for general graphics, I think a true 8-bit panel will be fine?

One final question, do I need DisplayPort to watch Blu-Ray movies on my PC? That particular monitor doesn't support HDMI. So it's either HDCP over DVI (might work) or get a card that does DisplayPort as well.

Also, I think that the bottom right number in your spreadsheet is wrong. I calculated $1,037.

Yep, good catch!

 

[mike208]

Your list looks pretty decent, but I'd make a few changes:

-I don't think that BF3's flight mechanics are complex enough to require spending over $100 on a joystick and throttle. This isn't Flight Simulator, it's much more arcadey.
- You've got a GTX 560 listed there, not the more popular and capable GTX 560 Ti. I'd say you'll probably GPU-limited at ultra with anything below a 6950 2GB or GTX 570.
- Don't plan to upgrade to SLI because 95% of the time you won't do it. It'd be better to spend $50 less on the mobo and $50 more on the GPU
- Make sure the RAM is 1.5V.
- There are plenty of less expensive monitors out there that are fine for games, but the U2410 is about as low as I would go for color-sensitive photo work.

Also, I think that the bottom right number in your spreadsheet is wrong. I calculated $1,037.

Just curious, what is the significance of 1.5V ram? I am building a new rig soon, and was looking at some ram that is 1.65V so I am curious as to what the deal is?

 

[lehtv]

1.5V is the standard DDR3 voltage, and it is what SB is meant to use

 

[mfenn]

1.5V is the standard DDR3 voltage, and it is what SB is meant to use

Exactly.

 

[mfenn]

Probably quite true, though I'd like to play a few other flight combat sims like HAWX 1 & 2 though those are also arcadey, but it opens me up to that genre. Without the left hand control, how do you control the other jet turning and thrust, back to using the keyboard? Hmm

I'm not sure what you mean by "other jet turning". Are you talking about yaw? In that case, most joysticks have twistable grip that provides that axis. Also, most joysticks have a throttle control built into the base.

Not that you will want to use anything other than max thrust or max airbrake in BF3 or HAWX anyway. Their flight controls are optimized for nothing more complex than a gamepad. I bought a Saitek Cyborg 3D Gold USB (long name) for $50 like 6 or 7 years ago and it has served me well for games that benefit (Freespace!). I hardly ever break it out for modern AAA games though, they just aren't designed for it.

I think I could squeeze in the GTX 560 Ti, it's about $88 more. The 570 is pushing $150 to $200 more. If I dropped to a cheaper motherboard that doesn't require SLI, I'm having a hard time picking what model. Generally they start dropping off features and swapping out parts like the sound chip or the network card. I have no idea if the cheaper Asus models with a different Realtek chip are worse than the Intel ones.

You need something better than a GTX 560 to play BF3 on Ultra at 1080P. There's just no getting around that fact. Even a GTX 560 Ti is pushing it, ideally, I would like to see you get rid of the joystick altogether and get a 6950 2GB.

As for the mobo, there are plenty of good options out there:
ASRock Z68 Pro3
ASUS P8Z68-V LE
Gigabyte GA-Z68A-D3H

That's just off the top of my head, there are others.

Well it doesn't have to be super perfect, I'm not a professional. Just would like it to be more accurate than your average 6-bit dithered panel. To be honest the U2410 might be over the top for what I'm doing. The next best option looks like the Dell UltraSharp U2312M at $343 (NZD). What do you reckon? 82% of NTSC color reproduction, still IPS panel, $453 cheaper. I suppose I'd be missing an extra 1" viewing on top of the screen but I can live with that. Color doesn't have to be super professional level, just good enough for general graphics, I think a true 8-bit panel will be fine?

Well, A U2410 is hardly "super professional". I'd call it prosumer at best. A U2312M isn't as good as good as a U2410, but it is certainly a hell of a lot better than your typical TN panel. In the end, only you can be the true judge of your color needs.

One final question, do I need DisplayPort to watch Blu-Ray movies on my PC? That particular monitor doesn't support HDMI. So it's either HDCP over DVI (might work) or get a card that does DisplayPort as well.

My Blu-ray playing in the other window would like to let you know that DVI works great! :awe:

 

[Spikesoldier]

lots of good info in this thread. i would personally move up to a 560Ti or 6950 2GB at a minimum if you expect to play BF3 well.

 

[Zuallauz]

I'm not sure what you mean by "other jet turning". Are you talking about yaw? In that case, most joysticks have twistable grip that provides that axis. Also, most joysticks have a throttle control built into the base.

Yep, turning left and right e.g. using the pedals in a plane/helicopter.
I have opted for a cheap Logitech Extreme 3D Pro which has throttle, rudder and joystick all in one. I think that will be ok. I'm really keen to try a joystick out for BF3 and HAWX2 at any rate.

You need something better than a GTX 560 to play BF3 on Ultra at 1080P. There's just no getting around that fact. Even a GTX 560 Ti is pushing it, ideally, I would like to see you get rid of the joystick altogether and get a 6950 2GB.

lots of good info in this thread. i would personally move up to a 560Ti or 6950 2GB at a minimum if you expect to play BF3 well.

Have spotted a EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti SuperClocked HDMI Dual-DVI for pretty cheap and in some benchmarks it's even beating a 6970. I think it's got higher clock speeds than normal. Look alright? I can get an Asus one at normal speeds for a bit more. EVGA are reliable brand right?

As for the mobo, there are plenty of good options out there:
ASRock Z68 Pro3
ASUS P8Z68-V LE
Gigabyte GA-Z68A-D3H

I will drop the SLI support for now and go with the ASUS P8Z68-V LE. From what I can tell I lose SLI support and the Intel 82579 Gigabit LAN Controller which gets replaced by the Realtek 8111E. The realtek uses more CPU but gets better throughput. No tests on latency hmm.

My Blu-ray playing in the other window would like to let you know that DVI works great! :awe:

Ok I won't bother getting a DisplayPort capable card for now. It seems to add a $100 premium onto the price. And I'm unsure of the benefits at the moment for the general 8-bit monitors? 12-bit sure there might a difference.

Updated:

Alright, many thanks mfenn and Spikesoldier! If no changes, then I'm good to go!?

 

[mfenn]

Have spotted a EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti SuperClocked HDMI Dual-DVI for pretty cheap and in some benchmarks it's even beating a 6970. I think it's got higher clock speeds than normal. Look alright? I can get an Asus one at normal speeds for a bit more. EVGA are reliable brand right?

EVGA is a good brand, but I would not pay the equivalent of $300 USD for a factory overclocked card. Just get a stock speed card (GTX 560 Ti or 6950 2GB) and overclock it yourself. The EVGA card in particular doesn't look like it uses a special cooler or anything.

I will drop the SLI support for now and go with the ASUS P8Z68-V LE. From what I can tell I lose SLI support and the Intel 82579 Gigabit LAN Controller which gets replaced by the Realtek 8111E. The realtek uses more CPU but gets better throughput. No tests on latency hmm.

The LE is a good board. In normal desktop usage, you will never be able to tell a difference between and Intel NIC and a Realtek.

Ok I won't bother getting a DisplayPort capable card for now. It seems to add a $100 premium onto the price. And I'm unsure of the benefits at the moment for the general 8-bit monitors? 12-bit sure there might a difference.

There really isn't much of a benefit at all to DP at normal resolutions besides a thinner cable. It's the way of the future no doubt, but DVI will be around for a long time.

Updated:

Alright, many thanks mfenn and Spikesoldier! If no changes, then I'm good to go!?

Looks OK to me excepting what I mentioned above. I don't know what the New Zealand market looks like, but you can probably save some more money without sacrificing much (if any) performance by dropping the RAM to 8GB and getting a non-modular PSU.

 

[Zuallauz]

EVGA is a good brand, but I would not pay the equivalent of $300 USD for a factory overclocked card. Just get a stock speed card (GTX 560 Ti or 6950 2GB) and overclock it yourself. The EVGA card in particular doesn't look like it uses a special cooler or anything.

From what I can tell the MSI GeForce N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II/OC 1GB is the cheapest at $365 NZD, followed by the Asus GeForce ENGTX560 TI DCII/2DI/1GD5 1GB ($399 NZD) or EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti SC HDMI Dual-DVI ($399). The EVGA has the fastest clock speeds. Shame you can't get the 448 core version here in Aus or NZ. Probably won't be overclocking myself as from experience it seems to do permanent damage to the cards. After finding a stable overclock, gradually over a few months it starts artifacting, then you have to back off the overclock more and more.

Looks OK to me excepting what I mentioned above. I don't know what the New Zealand market looks like, but you can probably save some more money without sacrificing much (if any) performance by dropping the RAM to 8GB and getting a non-modular PSU.

Yep RAM is at 8GB. The next lower down PSU is the Antec Earthwatts 650W which is not modular and that would save me $35. However looking at the specs for it, it doesn't appear to have EPS12V? From the motherboard specs page it needs a 8-pin ATX 12V Power connector, which I'm guessing is the EPS12V one. The TruePower New Series has modular and EPS12V. Not sure if I'd be prepared to go with a cheaper brand than Antec.

 

[lehtv]

The next lower down PSU is the Antec Earthwatts 650W which is not modular and that would save me $35. However looking at the specs for it, it doesn't appear to have EPS12V?

It does have an EPS connector. Not sure what specs you're looking at

 

[mfenn]

From what I can tell the MSI GeForce N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II/OC 1GB is the cheapest at $365 NZD, followed by the Asus GeForce ENGTX560 TI DCII/2DI/1GD5 1GB ($399 NZD) or EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti SC HDMI Dual-DVI ($399). The EVGA has the fastest clock speeds. Shame you can't get the 448 core version here in Aus or NZ. Probably won't be overclocking myself as from experience it seems to do permanent damage to the cards. After finding a stable overclock, gradually over a few months it starts artifacting, then you have to back off the overclock more and more.

The factory overclocked cards are the exact same as overclocking it yourself. It's not like they test them for months on end at the factory. Worth saving $30 IMHO.

Yep RAM is at 8GB. The next lower down PSU is the Antec Earthwatts 650W which is not modular and that would save me $35. However looking at the specs for it, it doesn't appear to have EPS12V? From the motherboard specs page it needs a 8-pin ATX 12V Power connector, which I'm guessing is the EPS12V one. The TruePower New Series has modular and EPS12V. Not sure if I'd be prepared to go with a cheaper brand than Antec.

Check out the EA-650 pics on Newegg. There is a 4+4 ATX12V/EPS12V combo.

 

[Zuallauz]

The factory overclocked cards are the exact same as overclocking it yourself. It's not like they test them for months on end at the factory. Worth saving $30 IMHO.

Check out the EA-650 pics on Newegg. There is a 4+4 ATX12V/EPS12V combo.

It does have an EPS connector. Not sure what specs you're looking at

Thanks, yeah true. I agree it is probably worth the saving however for some reason the overclocked ones seem to be a boatload cheaper than the stock ones in NZ . For example the cheapest stock speed one I can see is a Palit one for $370 NZD. No idea who Palit is. Next 'reliable' brand at stock speed is the MSI one for $440. Meanwhile I can get the EVGA 560 Ti SuperClocked for $399 ($41 cheaper). I have no idea why the overclocked ones are cheaper.

I'll keep the EA-650 in mind as it will probably do the trick. I am a fan of the nice tidy cable sleeves offered by the True Power model though, also it's modular so less cables around the case if I don't need to use all of them.

 

[mfenn]

Well yeah, obviously you don't want to pay more for a non-overclocked one. 😉 I guess that is the penalty for living on a tiny island. :awe: