Part of wheel bearing assembly stuck on...

[acole1]

Re: this post (http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2056034).

I decided to replace the left rear bearing and I got all the way down to the bearing assembly. It was stuck on pretty hard so I tapped the back of it with a hammer and it came right off the spindle.

The problem is that the bearing assembly separated when it came off, and part of the casing is still suck on the spindle. (http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/tim/512179/image/8/) The inner part that you see in the picture there is still suck on the spindle. I tried prying and wedging it away from the spindle, but it's stuck solid.

Are there any recommendations as to how to get it off?

 

[Meghan54]

That's the inner race of the bearing that's stuck on your spindle.

But now that you've got it down to that, the car's sort of stuck that way until you get the race off. I've had that happen once before, took a heating from a torch to get it loose enough to get off, and that was after trying pullers, hammers, you name it. Still have quite a scar left from that escapade in repair work. Didn't help we were working in snow and freezing temps.

Anyway, the race has become stuck by overheating while the bearing was in use and failing, and will probably take heat to remove it.

 

[allanon1965]

thats the inner race, two ways it can be done..if you have an oxy/acetelyne torch, heat it up red hot and tap it off with a hammer and punch or cold chisel...

other way would be to use a small 4 inch electric grinder and CAREFULLY grind a slot in the race so it can be split with a few hits of the hammer and cold chisel...try not to nick the spindle if you can help it...small nicks wont hurt anything, but a large gouge will...

 

[helpme]

I think the easiest way to remove it is with a bearing seperator and a press... You could also just get a new hub

Last time I replaced the front wheel bearings on my SRT-4, the inner races got stuck on, but I was replacing the hubs at the same time, so I didn't even bother to get them off.

 

[brblx]

that's obviously not a bolt-on bearing assembly. you really should be using a hub kit ($$$), i have no idea how you'll install the new bearing without one.

to get the old race off, you can probably use a three jaw puller.

edit: wait, nm, that bearing assembly is just held onto a spindle with a nut, no?

also, did you do what i recommended in the other thread to locate the noise?

 

[exdeath]

Press and bearing jaw/step plate kit. Make sure there isn't a grove and lock ring hidden under some crud.

Also make sure the bearing is serviceable. Sometimes you can get the hub, bearing, and ABS ring as an assembly for not much more than a plain bearing. It's also 10x easier to change since you don't need a press or puller tools; just pull the hub nut, pop the hub off and replace it, and torque down the hub nut.

 

[exdeath]

other way would be to use a small 4 inch electric grinder and CAREFULLY grind a slot in the race so it can be split with a few hits of the hammer and cold chisel...try not to nick the spindle if you can help it...small nicks wont hurt anything, but a large gouge will...

Use safety glasses for something like that and do it away from anything you care about getting nicked. That is some very hard metal and it will not bend, it will shatter violently.

 

[acole1]

The replacement is the whole hub and bearing assembly unit. In theory, the whole thing is supposed to slide off the spindle in one piece, then the new assembly slides on.

When I took the wheel off and spun the rotor/hub/bearing remains, I heard the grinding/whirring noise, and when the race stayed on it was easy to see all the exposed dirt and grime that was inside the bearing. So, I'm sure this is the right one.

I don't have a grinder or torch, but my father-in-law thinks he has a three jaw puller, so if he does I will try that.

Any thoughts on the risk of putting it all back together and driving the 10-15mi to my mechanic to have him finish it off?

Thanks for the help!

 

[helpme]

If the race is stuck on the knuckle's spindle, I'm not sure how you can put it back together enough to drive to your mechanic?

btw, you can go down to your local kragen and rent the puller for free. Autozone probably does the same thing, but I haven't rented anything from them before.

 

[acole1]

I'm not sure if it was the whole race. It was just one piece.... Well, anyways, I got it put back together and dropped it off at the mechanic's for him to fix. I'll see what they can do tomorrow.

 

[LookDadICanDoIt]

I have removed the siezed bearing from the spindel and need to know if there are torche measurements for the replacements of the rotor and bearings? please and thank you... I need help on this one.

 

[5150MyU]

I don't believe there are any torche measurements.
, but there may be some torque specs.
I know some fords and gms(trucks) say torque to # and back off to achieve .00x clearence.
Cars they just say torque to xxx foot lbs. or xxx newton metres.
In other words if you want an answer-post year,make ,model,sex,hair color etc.
Not like you'll be back.