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P0125 OBDII Code

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Hey Guys:

1995 Toyota Tacoma Regular Cab 4x4
2.7L 3RZ-FE I4 Engine
155,500 Miles

I got this error when I pulled the OBD II code from my car last night. I had gotten it 2x before (Probably a month apart or so each time).

In my research, since it isn't accompanied by any other codes, I should be looking at replacing the thermostat. Despite this, given that they are about a month apart each time it throws this error, is there something else that could be going wrong that I should look at before I drain my radiator and replace a thermostat (<-Admittedly not hard, but still)

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As for my other questions:
1. I just changed oil. I was using Mobile1 5W-30 Synthetic Oil with a PureOne oil filter. I changed oil after 10,000 miles given that it was synthetic. The car was still running fine and the oil still came out absolutely fine - but I just wanted to see what peoples opinions on 10K Miles/Oil Change on synthetic were.

2. I used 5W-30 and nearly bought 0W-30 instead. I live in Virginia (Winters are in Blacksburg in the mountains for College), I wouldn't benefit from the 0W in the cold start sense, but would there be any other minor benefits or restrictions to using such a light weight oil? Perhaps, since it is an old car, leaking, for instance?

3. A/C obviously saps a car for power. With mine on; however, when starting out from a stop, there are times when, even at WOT, the car sits there for about 2 seconds and then starts to rev up when trying to go. Anyone have any suggestions into what I might look into for this? There have been no codes thrown or anything, but it can be slightly aggravating all the same.

Thanks,
-Kevin
 
ODBII trouble codes can be sporadic and aren't 100%. There are a lot of factors to when the ODBII system may try to check this value. It could be your driving time was longer the previous times that you got the error.

I'm showing it could be these issues:
Insufficient warm up time
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Faulty coolant temperature sensor


Check the coolant, then change the thermostat next. Those should be the easiest things to do first.


As far as the other questions

1. I think 10K is fine for synthetic
2. I always recommend using the oil the owners manual calls for.
3. I'm not sure... it's an automatic I suppose? Most cars will cut the A/C at WOT... I'm wondering if the tacoma does not.
 
Originally posted by: joutlaw
ODBII trouble codes can be sporadic and aren't 100%. There are a lot of factors to when the ODBII system may try to check this value. It could be your driving time was longer the previous times that you got the error.

I'm showing it could be these issues:
Insufficient warm up time
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Faulty coolant temperature sensor


Check the coolant, then change the thermostat next. Those should be the easiest things to do first.


As far as the other questions

1. I think 10K is fine for synthetic
2. I always recommend using the oil the owners manual calls for.
3. I'm not sure... it's an automatic I suppose? Most cars will cut the A/C at WOT... I'm wondering if the tacoma does not.

I apologize - I completely forgot to mention that it was a Manual Transmission.

The only reason I go to WOT is when the car doesn't move off the line but drops to idle when I try to go. WOT is my response to see if there is something wrong - like I said the engine eventually figures out that I am hitting the gas.

I checked the butterfly valve and the throttle-body and the intake for anything abnormal, but all seemed normal to me. I may take some compressed air and spray around the MAF Sensor just in case something isn't welcome over there.

The coolant level is fine (I even cleaned the resevoir from all this weird junk that was floating in there). I guess I can change the thermostat tonight given that it is only ~$12.

-Kevin
 
Originally posted by: LTC8K6
I'd say maybe your TPS is going but I think that would generate a code...

I thought of that as well, but the problem is only an occasional issue when the A/C is on. When it is off, the car operates normally.

-Kevin
 
You are stopped with the A/C on.

You step on the gas as if to leave, but the engine stays at idle, and you can't go anywhere.

After a bit, it begins to rev normally and you can drive off.

Is that what's happening? But only if the A/C is on?

Seems strange.
 
Originally posted by: LTC8K6
You are stopped with the A/C on.

You step on the gas as if to leave, but the engine stays at idle, and you can't go anywhere.

After a bit, it begins to rev normally and you can drive off.

Is that what's happening? But only if the A/C is on?

Seems strange.

That is almost exactly what is happening except the engine drops a little below idle. Yes you have the idea though.

Also it happens randomly - most of the time it is fine, but sometimes not so much.

I don't understand it either 🙁 - I keep thinking up new ideas and then eliminating them for some reason.

-Kevin
 
Well, the idle speed is usually kicked up slightly when the A/C is on. Wonder if it's related to how that is accomplished on your Toyota?

Back in the day, it was a solenoid that bumped the idle up a bit.
 
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