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Overclocking 3770K on z77 Sabertooth

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imported_browsing

Senior member
Okay, so having never messed with a graphical BIOS or manual overclocking, I'm completely lost. I can't figure out what settings to tweak in this bios. How many different things do I need to be adjusting? It seems like no matter what I do, the CPU is throttling and I'm rarely seeing the full OC, so it also makes me nervous about temps. Any advice or help for a noob? I tried looking at a few guides and threads but sadly it still seemed to all be going over my head. D:
 
It's not throttling. It's dropping down at idle. When under load it speeds up. That's normal.

4.5Ghz should be easy, set multiplier at 45x and voltage around 1.2v See what happens. You might need to add voltage or you may be able to reduce. You'll have to test that as you go along.
 
Thanks! Looking good so far. I reset to the suggested settings and then put the multiplier at 44 and 1.2. Left everything else alone and ran IBT for a bit. Only got to 68C hottest core after 10 minutes. Now letting Prime95 run for a while. Thanks for the help. Anything else to tweak?
 
You have almost the exact same system that I just ordered: 3570, Sabertooth Z77, H100, 2X8GB Dominator 1600, Samsung 830 256gb, Asus GTX670 Top, Corsair 650 psu, Corsair 650 case. I will keep following your thread, so please post updates and results from the things you have tried. I will not get my system together until next week, but when I do we can compare and try to help each other.
 
Looks like it's stable with 4.4 and 1.2v. If I want to get to 4.5, I have to move mine up to at least 1.24 and I haven't done as much stability testing with it yet. Anything lower blue screens when I start playing with Prime. The H100 keeps the temps after an hour of IBT at a max of 75C for two of the cores. I've got it in a push/pull configuration in the top of my Arc Midi with the filter foam left on the honeycomb top. Preliminary playing with 4.5 moves the temperatures into the low 80s. Not sure how much hotter I want to let it get as a regular OC. 4.4 may be the easy spot for my chip.

This is using the stock TIM on the H100. I've got some IC Diamond but I don't know if I'll open it back up to apply it. Not positive how much effect it would have and I know the IC diamond is abrasive and I'm not sure if it would actually damage it over time if I had to RMA the H100 anytime soon. Also, I had to get another H100 because my first one suffered from the grinding noise. This second one still has a little pump sound, not sure how loud pumps should be as this is my first ever inclusion of any sort of liquid cooling, but it isn't noticeable when not stress testing with the case closed up. The first one sounded like someone was barely sticking a rubber eraser tip in a fan blade.
 
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imported_browsing said:
Looks like it's stable with 4.4 and 1.2v. If I want to get to 4.5, I have to move mine up to at least 1.24 and I haven't done as much stability testing with it yet. Anything lower blue screens when I start playing with Prime. The H100 keeps the temps after an hour of IBT at a max of 75C for two of the cores. I've got it in a push/pull configuration in the top of my Arc Midi with the filter foam left on the honeycomb top. Preliminary playing with 4.5 moves the temperatures into the low 80s. Not sure how much hotter I want to let it get as a regular OC. 4.4 may be the easy spot for my chip.

This is using the stock TIM on the H100. I've got some IC Diamond but I don't know if I'll open it back up to apply it. Not positive how much effect it would have and I know the IC diamond is abrasive and I'm not sure if it would actually damage it over time if I had to RMA the H100 anytime soon. Also, I had to get another H100 because my first one suffered from the grinding noise. This second one still has a little pump sound, not sure how loud pumps should be as this is my first ever inclusion of any sort of liquid cooling, but it isn't noticeable when not stress testing with the case closed up. The first one sounded like someone was barely sticking a rubber eraser tip in a fan blade.
Click to expand...

I can tell you're a little OCD over this computer thing.

These following statements may help you relax:



We have here a home computer, a tool.

This is not a space launch computer, it's very rough around the edges.

Even if the imperfections do not show up now, they're absolutely going to within a few months.

---- the fans will grind, the pump will become louder, and the capacitors may start to "coil whine"

No girl will ever think you're cool because you have a neat or fast computer. So don't waste money or time trying to doll it up. ^_^
 
borisvodofsky said:
No girl will ever think you're cool because you have a neat or fast computer. So don't waste money or time trying to doll it up. ^_^
Click to expand...

Not an issue, have a fiance with a rig of her own. Thanks for the pep talk though. :awe: The pump thing just bugged me because I splurged for cougar fans. I could've lived with it but since it's a known issue, I wanted to address it within the return window. I don't do anything that requires a 4.4 OC anyway, but it's fun.

Any other tips on the build?
 
imported_browsing said:
.......Also, I had to get another H100 because my first one suffered from the grinding noise. This second one still has a little pump sound, not sure how loud pumps should be as this is my first ever inclusion of any sort of liquid cooling, but it isn't noticeable when not stress testing with the case closed up. The first one sounded like someone was barely sticking a rubber eraser tip in a fan blade.
Click to expand...

From Corsairs Official Staff in this post:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/...inding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response/570


Good news, everyone.

Corsair has now tracked down and fixed a rare and hard to reproduce issue on some of our Hydro series coolers, specifically the H60, H80, and H100 when used in combination with certain power supplies in certain circumstances. The failure will present itself as a buzz or hum, similar to a hard drive seek noise, and may disappear and reappear at random times. This issue affects a very small number of units, and typically is more prevalent on power supplies that provide higher than +12.2V on the +12V rail, which explains why some users have experienced multiple units with the same issue – they’re plugging them into the same power supply.

Regardless, this has since been corrected and we are now shipping units that do not experience the issue. If you’ve got a noisy H100, H80, or H60 unit, and the noise is coming from the pump (not the fans), we’d like to offer you a selective RMA. Please email us at RMAservice@corsair.com with the subject line “Hydro Series Buzz” and include your name, phone number, shipping address, and email address. We will contact you to start a replacement with a known good unit.

Thank you, and we appreciate your patience as we corrected this issue.


There is also a fix in this post, I used it to remove the noise on a H60 the other day:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/...e-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response


I actually fixed the noise and fan speed on my H100 by simply putting one fan on each side of the 4-fan-conectors on the pump, not setting two fans beside each other. That way both my fans run at the same speed and the noise went away...

Hope some of it can help you to 🙂
 
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