Okay to use foam sealant for this?

[spacejamz]

I just replaced the insulation on the pipe that runs from my a/c unit into the house...

Is it okay to shoot that foam where it runs into the brick? Or is there a better method to do this?



this stuff:

 

[Greenman]

It says UV resistant on the can. Maybe throw a coat of paint over it as well.

 

[spacejamz]

I'm gonna go with this option:

Amazon.com

 

[Greenman]

You will still need to cover it with something, that stuff rusts.

 

[spacejamz]

I have a can of this stuff...hope it works...

 

[deadlyapp]

Maybe not a bad idea to put a wall cap on there to just help around the entrance. The below is one for a duct (which is more than you need) but there should be something simpler. I know I have one for my AC penetration.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Broan-NuTone-6-in-Round-Duct-Aluminum-Wall-Cap-641/202905908

 

[BoomerD]

I have a can of this stuff...hope it works...

View attachment 103554

CorrosionX is wonderful stuff. I've used it for at least 20 years. Not sure it's right for that job though.

 

[Steltek]

I presume the copper line is still insulated inside the wall into the house? If it isn't, don't put the steel wool in there as it might cause galvanic corrosion (plus, it will rust due to the copper line sweating). If it is insulated, it shouldn't be a problem if the steel wool is treated with the CorrosionX.

Were it me, I'd just mix up some thick sanded grout and fill the outside of the hole in the wall around the line (just where it goes into the house from the outside) and call it a day. Easy to remove in the future by chipping it out with a screwdriver if the copper line ever has to be re-run for any reason.

And, if I wanted to get really fancy, I'd create a 2 piece color matched brick fascia cover with a hole in the middle the size of the copper line passing through and use either the grout to attach it to the brick or by mounting the plate to the brick with a couple of thin masonry tapcon screws.

 

[Sukhoi]

I used Bondo and painted it. Looks better than foam

 

[snoopy7548]

You could also try patching it up with peanut butter.

 

[evident]

I would use a product called Lexel. comes in a caulk gun format. it's not the same as silicone and it works way better to seal gaps.

Sashco Lexel Clear Synthetic Rubber All Purpose Caulk 10.5 oz Mfr# 13010 - Ace Hardware

Lexel is the Tough Elastic Sealant for Every Job. Super-elastic. Superior adhesion. Paintable. It seals around anything: tubs and shower stalls, sinks and countertops, window frames and door frames, PVC, and metal drain pipes. Apply to wet or dry surfaces, indoors and outdoors. It is tough and...

www.acehardware.com

another good option is gardner bender putty. it's easy to apply and remove but not as permanent as the lexel stuff.

 

[Sukhoi]

Lexel is rated to use that thick?

 

[evident]

Lexel is rated to use that thick?

Hmm... i'm not sure but i don't see why it wouldnt. It goes on thick and is durable. A previous contractor used it on a pretty big gap in my vinyl siding before. I've used it around the perimeters of outdoor outlet boxes and shut off switches but never in an application like this. Duct seal like that gardener bender stuff would be great too. or use the spray foam.

 

[BoomerD]

I used the clear Lexel to seal gaps when I built my greenhouse a few years ago. No complaints about its durability…but it’s a PITA to clean up tools and hands…as compared to latex caulks.

 

[jmagg]

I'd use gardner bender putty. I used it for a gas line penetration 8 yrs ago, and it hasnt moved/changed on a southern elevation.