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Oil Pressue light coming on...

M

MikeMike

Lifer
believe it is the oil pressure light (little like can with a drop coming out of it)

this has happend once to me, well it happened a lot but it was weird, it was all during one occasion however.

I drove home for Thanksgiving 6.5 hours, freeway, did not have this problem

drove back.

6.5 hours freeway.

get off of highway and sit at a stop light for a second, i get a quick ding ding and look at the SID nothing, nothing on dash

start up move forward a stoplight

same thing, this time i catch a glimpse of the dash and see the red light flickering like it doesnt know what it wants to do.

get car washed at car washed, it does the dinging and the flickering, but only dings once but continues to sorta flicker but only occasionally coming on.

if i increse RPM's by like 100 it goes away.

i checked the oil when i got back here and it seemed full.

i did get something solid on the stick one the first pull out (i didnt like that) but the second dip didnt show anything of that sort. it ONLY does this at idle and only flickering. not a constant light. it deffinately does it when the compressor or something turns on and the rpm's drop slightly and then climb back up.

however i cant replicate this any more, i dont have another 6.5 hour trip for like 4 more weeks.

i know when i get home for winter break i will be changing oil and filter and everything.

i am currently running Mobil 1 syn. and Saab OEM filter. about 2k miles on this oil i would guestimate.

Turbo was replaced about 2.6k miles ago.

more recent info:

it has begun to happen now after only like 20 minutes of driving, but the temp seems to be at full operating temperature.

it still will only do it at super low rpms, like if i let the clutch out slightly past friction point and the rpms drop i will see it flicker real fast, but no SID ding because i push the clutch in rapidly, but it wont happen at cold, only hot.



any suggestions?
 
change yer oil now, also get the oil pan cleaned, if the saab is anything like my VW then it needs cleaning now


mine was a turbo model, and i blew the oil pump by ignoring the oil and cleaning
 
i have like 2000 miles on the oil, i think i will have about 1000 more before i actually change it, and at that time i think i will be doing an oil flush, pan drop and clean.

its mobil 1 synthetic.

and i dont want to pay to get it changed since i happen to have OEM oil filters at home
 
oil pump may be going bad? sine the pump is driven off of the motor, when you are idling, tat is the period of lowest oil pressure.

get you oil changed and look for any metal bits or shavings (you said there was a piece on the diptick?)

its either the oil pump that is failing (major problem)
or the oil pressure sensor failing
 
replaced turbo? how old is this car? sounds like you may have a residual oil pump problem that is the cause of your failed turbo.
 
If the oil pressure light is coming on, you've already let it go too far. Stop driving it unless you want an even bigger repair bill.
 
Originally posted by: scorpmatt
Originally posted by: puffpio
its either the oil pump that is failing (major problem)
or the oil pressure sensor failing
Click to expand...

I concur
Click to expand...

More than likely but the type/age/mileage on the car would be useful info. If revving the engine makes the light go off then it could be bearings also. Maybe the oil is simply too thin. You could try a heavier weight.

 
Put a mechanical REAL oil pressure gauge on it. The stock ones aren't worth anything. Probably just the sender is dying but you need a real gauge to find out.
 
Originally posted by: Triumph
replaced turbo? how old is this car? sounds like you may have a residual oil pump problem that is the cause of your failed turbo.
Click to expand...


its a 99 Saab 9-5. Turbo is typical, 70k miles.

revving the engine doesnt make it go away, leaving it at normal idling speed makes it go away.

if i turn the steering wheel all the way and the idle drops, it comes on.

if i let the clutch out and go past friction point and the idle drops, it comes on.

there is no oil pressure guage on the car that i can view, just an engine temp, fuel guage, speedo and tach.

its 5w40 Mobil 1.

so far other forums have suggested the following.

Worn/Dirty pump
Sludge
Oil is overheating at idle becuase oil thermometer is bad (same symptoms, just on a 9-3)
Faulty Oil Switch
Messed up engine internals.

they range from easy, to hard and costly
 
i say the oil pump. Stop driving before you make things even worse.

might wanna check the oil switch though; i doubt it's the sludge since you use syntec.
 
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: Triumph
replaced turbo? how old is this car? sounds like you may have a residual oil pump problem that is the cause of your failed turbo.
Click to expand...


its a 99 Saab 9-5. Turbo is typical, 70k miles.

revving the engine doesnt make it go away, leaving it at normal idling speed makes it go away.

if i turn the steering wheel all the way and the idle drops, it comes on.

if i let the clutch out and go past friction point and the idle drops, it comes on.

there is no oil pressure guage on the car that i can view, just an engine temp, fuel guage, speedo and tach.

its 5w40 Mobil 1.

so far other forums have suggested the following.

Worn/Dirty pump
Sludge
Oil is overheating at idle becuase oil thermometer is bad (same symptoms, just on a 9-3)
Faulty Oil Switch
Messed up engine internals.

they range from easy, to hard and costly
Click to expand...


Try the heavier Mobil 1,like 15-50?

Change the oil and filter as soon as possible.

Even "oem" filters can be defective.

Oil and filter even with Mobli one are less than $50 installed.

How much would a new Installed engine cost? 😉
 
Uh, lol.

If I saw my oil pressure light go on for even a moment, I would shut the engine down immediately.

Fortunately, I have an oil pressure gauge instead of an idiot light. 😛
 
Just had the turbo replace would leave me to believe 2 things.
Metal shavings from the old turbo have clogged the screen. You will have to have the pan removed and the screen replaced and the oil pump as well since it is apart.

It is the oil pump. Hence why idiot lights (not calling you one thats just what they are) suck and a real gague is always needed. See if a mechanic can install a universal one for you and get it checked.

Your idiot light is set up so that if there is NO, none, zip, zlich, nada damn bit of pressure it will go off. It doesnt go off if there is slight pressure, it goes off when there is NO oil pressure and your engine is running dry metal to metal.

If you own a saab then it shouldnt be that big a deal to get a rental and not dive the car. Low to no oil pressure will cause perminant damage.

Also just because the light goes off doesnt mean it all good. As long as there is 1 pound of pressure the light will go off. Your car need 30-50lbs of pressure to keep everying lubricated. Lower oil pressure at high rpm is just as bad as having none. Is that cars $6000 engine not worth getting checked out or you got money to burn when it locks up instead of paying a few hundred to get it fixed before the engine sustains per damage and locks up on you at 70 MPH on the highway? BTW your car is a clutch and sometimes a engine will lock up with no warning. You being in gear and your engine locking up on you suddenly at highway speeds will take out your transmission from the sudden lock up of all moving parts at that spped and chances of you dying or taking someone with you is very high.

Just food for thought 😀

OH and since you have full oil this IS what is going on and there is no other explination needed. But untill you get it to a mechanic for him to put on a manual oil pressure gague you wont know. There is a super, SUPER, slim chance your oil sending unit could be going bad or filled with shavings from the bad turbo you just had replaced but I doubt it.
 
Originally posted by: funboy42
Just had the turbo replace would leave me to believe 2 things.
Metal shavings from the old turbo have clogged the screen. You will have to have the pan removed and the screen replaced and the oil pump as well since it is apart.

It is the oil pump. Hence why idiot lights (not calling you one thats just what they are) suck and a real gague is always needed. See if a mechanic can install a universal one for you and get it checked.

Your idiot light is set up so that if there is NO, none, zip, zlich, nada damn bit of pressure it will go off. It doesnt go off if there is slight pressure, it goes off when there is NO oil pressure and your engine is running dry metal to metal.

If you own a saab then it shouldnt be that big a deal to get a rental and not dive the car. Low to no oil pressure will cause perminant damage.

Also just because the light goes off doesnt mean it all good. As long as there is 1 pound of pressure the light will go off. Your car need 30-50lbs of pressure to keep everying lubricated. Lower oil pressure at high rpm is just as bad as having none. Is that cars $6000 engine not worth getting checked out or you got money to burn when it locks up instead of paying a few hundred to get it fixed before the engine sustains per damage and locks up on you at 70 MPH on the highway? BTW your car is a clutch and sometimes a engine will lock up with no warning. You being in gear and your engine locking up on you suddenly at highway speeds will take out your transmission from the sudden lock up of all moving parts at that spped and chances of you dying or taking someone with you is very high.

Just food for thought 😀

OH and since you have full oil this IS what is going on and there is no other explination needed. But untill you get it to a mechanic for him to put on a manual oil pressure gague you wont know. There is a super, SUPER, slim chance your oil sending unit could be going bad or filled with shavings from the bad turbo you just had replaced but I doubt it.
Click to expand...


i love the fact that just because i own a saab i can afford stuff...

this car was under 10 grand when i bought it used....

damnit, this oil pressure thing isnt cool at all.

i have only one way to get home and thats with the car.

the turbo seals were all that failed, it wasnt like the impeller went byebye

damnit i dont even know of a good saab mechanic around here. and i dont know of any good mechanics in general.
 
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: funboy42
Just had the turbo replace would leave me to believe 2 things.
Metal shavings from the old turbo have clogged the screen. You will have to have the pan removed and the screen replaced and the oil pump as well since it is apart.

It is the oil pump. Hence why idiot lights (not calling you one thats just what they are) suck and a real gague is always needed. See if a mechanic can install a universal one for you and get it checked.

Your idiot light is set up so that if there is NO, none, zip, zlich, nada damn bit of pressure it will go off. It doesnt go off if there is slight pressure, it goes off when there is NO oil pressure and your engine is running dry metal to metal.

If you own a saab then it shouldnt be that big a deal to get a rental and not dive the car. Low to no oil pressure will cause perminant damage.

Also just because the light goes off doesnt mean it all good. As long as there is 1 pound of pressure the light will go off. Your car need 30-50lbs of pressure to keep everying lubricated. Lower oil pressure at high rpm is just as bad as having none. Is that cars $6000 engine not worth getting checked out or you got money to burn when it locks up instead of paying a few hundred to get it fixed before the engine sustains per damage and locks up on you at 70 MPH on the highway? BTW your car is a clutch and sometimes a engine will lock up with no warning. You being in gear and your engine locking up on you suddenly at highway speeds will take out your transmission from the sudden lock up of all moving parts at that spped and chances of you dying or taking someone with you is very high.

Just food for thought 😀

OH and since you have full oil this IS what is going on and there is no other explination needed. But untill you get it to a mechanic for him to put on a manual oil pressure gague you wont know. There is a super, SUPER, slim chance your oil sending unit could be going bad or filled with shavings from the bad turbo you just had replaced but I doubt it.
Click to expand...


i love the fact that just because i own a saab i can afford stuff...

this car was under 10 grand when i bought it used....
Click to expand...

Thats the choice you made, though. You can buy a 1.5 year old Taurus for $10,000 or a 6 year old Saab. The Saab WILL cost you more money.

Don't feel bad, I would normally pick a higher mileage, more luxurious car like a Saab, too. Repairs are part of wonership, though.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Thats the choice you made, though. You can buy a 1.5 year old Taurus for $10,000 or a 6 year old Saab. The Saab WILL cost you more money.
Click to expand...

Yup whether it was a conscious choice or not you're stuck dealing with it.

🙁

Viper GTS
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: funboy42
Just had the turbo replace would leave me to believe 2 things.
Metal shavings from the old turbo have clogged the screen. You will have to have the pan removed and the screen replaced and the oil pump as well since it is apart.

It is the oil pump. Hence why idiot lights (not calling you one thats just what they are) suck and a real gague is always needed. See if a mechanic can install a universal one for you and get it checked.

Your idiot light is set up so that if there is NO, none, zip, zlich, nada damn bit of pressure it will go off. It doesnt go off if there is slight pressure, it goes off when there is NO oil pressure and your engine is running dry metal to metal.

If you own a saab then it shouldnt be that big a deal to get a rental and not dive the car. Low to no oil pressure will cause perminant damage.

Also just because the light goes off doesnt mean it all good. As long as there is 1 pound of pressure the light will go off. Your car need 30-50lbs of pressure to keep everying lubricated. Lower oil pressure at high rpm is just as bad as having none. Is that cars $6000 engine not worth getting checked out or you got money to burn when it locks up instead of paying a few hundred to get it fixed before the engine sustains per damage and locks up on you at 70 MPH on the highway? BTW your car is a clutch and sometimes a engine will lock up with no warning. You being in gear and your engine locking up on you suddenly at highway speeds will take out your transmission from the sudden lock up of all moving parts at that spped and chances of you dying or taking someone with you is very high.

Just food for thought 😀

OH and since you have full oil this IS what is going on and there is no other explination needed. But untill you get it to a mechanic for him to put on a manual oil pressure gague you wont know. There is a super, SUPER, slim chance your oil sending unit could be going bad or filled with shavings from the bad turbo you just had replaced but I doubt it.
Click to expand...


i love the fact that just because i own a saab i can afford stuff...

this car was under 10 grand when i bought it used....
Click to expand...

Thats the choice you made, though. You can buy a 1.5 year old Taurus for $10,000 or a 6 year old Saab. The Saab WILL cost you more money.

Don't feel bad, I would normally pick a higher mileage, more luxurious car like a Saab, too. Repairs are part of wonership, though.
Click to expand...

yes i know this, although i need to get the oil pressure checked out, see if it is actually driveable.

if not i guess im gonna have my dad come down, put my car on the trailer we have, secure it somehow, and well, away we go.
 
Originally posted by: Eli
Uh, lol.

If I saw my oil pressure light go on for even a moment, I would shut the engine down immediately.

Fortunately, I have an oil pressure gauge instead of an idiot light. 😛
Click to expand...
It seems like a lot of new cars don't have real gauges on them anymore. Mine didn't, but I put one on because I want to know what the actual pressure is, and not just that it's at zero.
 
Sorry I generally buy a car I can afford to fix as well. I wasnt putting you down I just ASSumed that since you had a nice car you had the means to have it fixed. Just didnt want to see you keep driving it though and blow the engine 😱
Rich or not that would of been alot to come up with to have replaced.

If your mechanicaly inclined at all go to the part store, buy a chilltons manual find out where the oil pressure sending unit it is and put in the $15 univeral one yourself. The book will tell you how much you should have and may just find out it was the sending unit and dont need to fret at all 😉
 
Originally posted by: funboy42
Sorry I generally buy a car I can afford to fix as well. I wasnt putting you down I just ASSumed that since you had a nice car you had the means to have it fixed. Just didnt want to see you keep driving it though and blow the engine 😱
Rich or not that would of been alot to come up with to have replaced.

If your mechanicaly inclined at all go to the part store, buy a chilltons manual find out where the oil pressure sending unit it is and put in the $15 univeral one yourself. The book will tell you how much you should have and may just find out it was the sending unit and dont need to fret at all
Click to expand...


i have money to get it checked out, but i would prefer to do everything myself, i have the tools, the know how etc. im just not near home.

however i did find a saab specialist that i may call tomorrow and ask if they can check the oil pressure on my car, its about a 15 minute drive from here so it wont be THAT bad on the engine.


i have the haynes manual and should be able to find it, but im on a college campus and finding a spot to work on your car isnt easy.
 
Look into what an inexpensive oil pressure guage costs at some place like AutoZone. They might also have one in the tools they rent/loan.

Compare that to the price of the oil pressure sensors for your car. Buy whichever is less expensive, or just buy the pressure sensor(s) and make sure all your connectors look okay.

The oil pressure sensors went bad twice during the lifetime of my 1987 Chevy S10. It cost me about $15 total (in parts) each time to replace them. The oil pump in that truck required lifting the engine, and I was very happy not to do it.

I understand that a Chevy and a Saab are not the same animal, but it's a cheap way to start diagnosing your problem.


Are you saying you had a floater in your oil in the OP?? That can't be good. Are you sure the filter got changed out in your last oil change?
 
The oil is either running hot or the oil you're using is too thin. Make sure that you are using the correct viscosity for your temperature range and that you're not over-heating the oil somehow (Note: the oil can overheat without the engine overheating).

Since you have a turbo, you'll want to check on that as a potential cause. If the turbo is running too hot it can be dumping excessive heat into the oil.

ZV

EDIT: A turbo shouldn't fail at 70,000 miles... Modern turbos should last well over 100,000 miles...
 
Originally posted by: nourdmrolNMT1
Originally posted by: funboy42
Sorry I generally buy a car I can afford to fix as well. I wasnt putting you down I just ASSumed that since you had a nice car you had the means to have it fixed. Just didnt want to see you keep driving it though and blow the engine 😱
Rich or not that would of been alot to come up with to have replaced.

If your mechanicaly inclined at all go to the part store, buy a chilltons manual find out where the oil pressure sending unit it is and put in the $15 univeral one yourself. The book will tell you how much you should have and may just find out it was the sending unit and dont need to fret at all
Click to expand...


i have money to get it checked out, but i would prefer to do everything myself, i have the tools, the know how etc. im just not near home.

however i did find a saab specialist that i may call tomorrow and ask if they can check the oil pressure on my car, its about a 15 minute drive from here so it wont be THAT bad on the engine.


i have the haynes manual and should be able to find it, but im on a college campus and finding a spot to work on your car isnt easy.
Click to expand...

Do you have an update?

If the car needs 1/2 qt of oil,add a can/bottle of STP.This will thicken the oil slightly,
and help add some protection.

 
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