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oh look what Klasse did to my car!

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Originally posted by: Aharami
yea i am. i just got the bentley service manual for my car

doesnt seem TOO hard. any advice?

yes.

you're gonna need either a 6,7 or 8mm hex bit socket to take off the bolts from caliper carrier (most likely 8mm, cause thats what its on the A6). Torque spec for this is I belive 80-90nm for this bolt, should say in bentley manual.

For the caliper pin slide, you will need to counter hold the 15mm or 13mm bolt with a 13mm open end wrench (this is specified in the bentley), otherwise the bolts for the caliper will keep on spinning. (i think the rear brakes are similar from the A6 to the Golf, bolt sizes may be different). The bentley says to use new bolts, but, I'd just save some money and a trip to the dealer; use some blue threadlock instead on the threads when you put it back together. I think the idea behind using new ones is that the old bolts may stretch, but they are grade 10.9 to begine with, so blue threadlock is what I'd use.

You may need to ever so slighlty file some of the paint off the edges backing plate of the brake pads to make the pads fit better and not bind in the pad carrier.

You will also need a special caliper piston tool to push to piston back into the caliper to make for the thick new pads. The piston on the rear calipers of most modern VW/Audis need not only to be rotated back into place, but pressure must be put on the piston at the same time of rotation. Don't rotate the piston too far. You can either buy the $150 dollar VAG tool to do this, or go to harborfreight and pick up their caliper tool in the red plastic container. Regular price for the harborfreight tool is $39, but, sometimes it goes on sale, I got mine for $20 a while back.

As for anti-noise solutions, the stock/oem pads have a sticky stuff preapplied to the backing plates, the mintex do not, I'd pick up a can of permatex brake silencer stuff, its about $5 for a can of it, and spray a thin layer of it on the back of the pads.

The rear pads have "spring" mechanisms on the back sides that fit between the caliper and the pads. Make sure that these are in the corrrect position (inside of the caliper) when you put the caliper on. It is easy to get the end of the spring poking out of the hole in the caliper, so watch out for this.

Thats about all I can think of right now. Let me know if you run into any probs, or you can PM me.
 
Thanks technokid. rotors havent arrievd yet. probably wont arrive till next week. so i will attempt this weekend after next. between the bentley and what you said, i should be pretty much covered. i just gotta rent the tools from autozone or something (i dont have a torque wrench)

if i do run into some problems, i'll send u a PM
 
Originally posted by: cherrytwist
Nice looking Golf. Now you just need some clear corners 😉

haha those are fine for me. well im thinking of gettin smoked e-code headlights. IF i do get those, i'll get smoked side markers.

but i'd rather do performance mods over "looks" mods
 
Not sure if it's the case here, but sometimes new bolts are specified due to the stress of repeated installation at the required torque.

If it says buy new bolts, I'd buy the new bolts - It can't cost 'that' much, and brakes are one thing on a car you don't want fvcked up.
 
Originally posted by: nautique
you got to slam that thing man...still a gap there

and what...
scrape the bottom of my car everytime i hit a bump?
look like a bobblehead doll when im driving?
 
Nice, I love what a nice wash, clay, and wax job can do for the finish. I'm going to order some Zaino wax for the next time I wax my car.
 
Originally posted by: HiTek21
Nice, I love what a nice wash, clay, and wax job can do for the finish. I'm going to order some Zaino wax for the next time I wax my car.

zaino is nice (i hear)...but waaaaay too much $$ for me
 
Originally posted by: 3chordcharlie
Not sure if it's the case here, but sometimes new bolts are specified due to the stress of repeated installation at the required torque.

If it says buy new bolts, I'd buy the new bolts - It can't cost 'that' much, and brakes are one thing on a car you don't want fvcked up.

you need four of them for the rear caliper, they are M8x20 bolts, and cost like $1.13 each from the dealer. Grade 10.9 (or better, depending on who supplies the OEM) bolts, especially in an application for brake caliper guide pins, shouldn't strectch that much if at all, the torque spec is only 35nm. I've bought the new bolts from the VW dealer, and all I could tell different from the ones I took off is taht the new ones had some blue threadlock applied on.
 
wow rak! those rims look dope as hell!

nice job on the wash/wax too. i use zaino and i just finished washing my car this past weekend(it was horrendously dirty). i have to give it into the body shop to take care of a couple of scratches on the passenger side door and passenger side rocker panel. hopefully they'll also touch up the rock chips in each of the wheel wells and i also have a chip on the cover of the front license plate.

in order to avoid water spots you just keep hosing down the car. then when it comes time to dry, work quickly and start with the windows first (they will dry faster). after the car comes back repainted ill have to wash/wax it thoroughly (start with dawn dishwashing detergent, then a couple of coats of z2/z5). its such a PITA, but it looks beautiful.
 
LOL, one of you pics your front license plate is showing then on the other picture you rear license plate is blurred out. I just found that kind of funny.
 
Originally posted by: TechnoKid
Originally posted by: 3chordcharlie
Not sure if it's the case here, but sometimes new bolts are specified due to the stress of repeated installation at the required torque.

If it says buy new bolts, I'd buy the new bolts - It can't cost 'that' much, and brakes are one thing on a car you don't want fvcked up.

you need four of them for the rear caliper, they are M8x20 bolts, and cost like $1.13 each from the dealer. Grade 10.9 (or better, depending on who supplies the OEM) bolts, especially in an application for brake caliper guide pins, shouldn't strectch that much if at all, the torque spec is only 35nm. I've bought the new bolts from the VW dealer, and all I could tell different from the ones I took off is taht the new ones had some blue threadlock applied on.

so what you are suggesting is that i DONT need to buy any new bolts. well i guess i'd have to see what shape my current ones are in.
 
Originally posted by: maziwanka
wow rak! those rims look dope as hell!

nice job on the wash/wax too. i use zaino and i just finished washing my car this past weekend(it was horrendously dirty). i have to give it into the body shop to take care of a couple of scratches on the passenger side door and passenger side rocker panel. hopefully they'll also touch up the rock chips in each of the wheel wells and i also have a chip on the cover of the front license plate.

in order to avoid water spots you just keep hosing down the car. then when it comes time to dry, work quickly and start with the windows first (they will dry faster). after the car comes back repainted ill have to wash/wax it thoroughly (start with dawn dishwashing detergent, then a couple of coats of z2/z5). its such a PITA, but it looks beautiful.

thanks man! and btw, your Z06 would look beautiful even when its dirty!!

how long does the zaino process take? i was gonna go that route, but decided it was too much money.
 
Originally posted by: CraigRT
looks decent
always liked the looks of Golfs... :thumbsup:

thanks man! thats actually not the best pic...that pic was taken when the sun was going down. i'll have to take a pic when it still sunny. you can see a near mirror reflection off the side panels
 
Originally posted by: blazert40
LOL, one of you pics your front license plate is showing then on the other picture you rear license plate is blurred out. I just found that kind of funny.

yea i noticed that late last night. but was waay to sleepy by then and decided its not worth the effort to change/re-upload the pic
 
its the washing/drying that takes the longest. after i've hand dried the car, i usually let it sit for an hour or so so that all the water evaporates (some is still in the door handles or the rearview mirror, etc). then i apply the wax and let that sit for an hour or so. then it comes time to buff that sh!t off. im usually so tired by then that i dont bother applying another coat - if youre zealous enough, you can apply another coat.

it seriously takes me at least 4-5 hours (generally more) to do the complete job (and thats just one coat of wax). cleaning the rims (esp the front b/c of brake dust) and towel drying the car are the biggest PITA. its worth the time and effort, but i wonder how meguire's performs. i think ill try something cheaper after my zaino runs out.
 
Originally posted by: maziwanka
its the washing/drying that takes the longest. after i've hand dried the car, i usually let it sit for an hour or so so that all the water evaporates (some is still in the door handles or the rearview mirror, etc). then i apply the wax and let that sit for an hour or so. then it comes time to buff that sh!t off. im usually so tired by then that i dont bother applying another coat - if youre zealous enough, you can apply another coat.

it seriously takes me at least 4-5 hours (generally more) to do the complete job (and thats just one coat of wax). cleaning the rims (esp the front b/c of brake dust) and towel drying the car are the biggest PITA. its worth the time and effort, but i wonder how meguire's performs. i think ill try something cheaper after my zaino runs out.

ronnie, try klasse. its really awesome! and if u really want, top off Klasse SG with a layer of carnuba (sp?) wax. it will shine like those showroom cars!!! i have a ebook i can send u if you want. this book is like the detailer's heaven

Originally posted by: tarak
nice car, glad you have the sense not to drop it. looks great as it is

thanks dude. but the car is lowered 1.5". check up...i posted a couple pics comparing the ride height changes
 
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