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oh look what Klasse did to my car!

Klasse is a seriously good product. How did you apply it? Is this just the AIO, or did you apply the SG too? How many coats of the SG if you applied it?

Looks great!
 
Originally posted by: Descartes
Klasse is a seriously good product. How did you apply it? Is this just the AIO, or did you apply the SG too? How many coats of the SG if you applied it?

Looks great!

this was my first time detailing.

washed, clayed, washed, AIO using porter cable random orbital polisher, hand buff, SG using polisher, hand buff

only 1 coat of SG so far...will quick wash my car again next week and apply another coat of SG

oh btw, my car has 75K miles on the clock! and is a 2000 GTI
 
Yeah, did you use SG & AIO, or just AIO? And where'd you get the Klasse product? I'm not sure where to find it in my area.
 
Originally posted by: fivespeed5
still a little gap

yea. i'm using koni shocks with neuspeed springs. they dropped about 1.5" I dont want my car slammed to the ground. cant stand that look of wheels going inside wheel wells
 
Originally posted by: Aharami
it went from
this
to
this

i had no clue Klasse could change the look of my wheels so much!!! 😛

some more pics of my car...

front wheel..no more horrendous wheel gap
rear shot...a lot meaner stance!
rear wheel aah i need bigger rotors (they are on their way)
a dusk shot
Do me a favor... in warm weather, find a deserted stretch of dry, well-maintained road and get up to 60mph. Then stomp on the brakes (as hard as possible) until you stop. Does ABS engage?
 
Originally posted by: jumpr
Yeah, did you use SG & AIO, or just AIO? And where'd you get the Klasse product? I'm not sure where to find it in my area.

i got it from autopia. their customer service is top notch!!!! and you will find very helpful people on their forums.

but the best part is the detailing e-book u get the DL for free!
 
Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: Aharami
it went from
this
to
this

i had no clue Klasse could change the look of my wheels so much!!! 😛

some more pics of my car...

front wheel..no more horrendous wheel gap
rear shot...a lot meaner stance!
rear wheel aah i need bigger rotors (they are on their way)
a dusk shot
Do me a favor... in warm weather, find a deserted stretch of dry, well-maintained road and get up to 60mph. Then stomp on the brakes (as hard as possible) until you stop. Does ABS engage?


last i checked, ABS engaged...this was b4 i got the new wheels. why do u ask?
 
Nice car, nice job! Klasse is a great product. Did you know that it has been around for 35 years? Very, very, very few auto detailing products have been around that long. Most last 10 years, tops. Great stuff.
 
Originally posted by: Aharami
Originally posted by: Descartes
Klasse is a seriously good product. How did you apply it? Is this just the AIO, or did you apply the SG too? How many coats of the SG if you applied it?

Looks great!

this was my first time detailing.

washed, clayed, washed, AIO using porter cable random orbital polisher, hand buff, SG using polisher, hand buff

only 1 coat of SG so far...will quick wash my car again next week and apply another coat of SG

oh btw, my car has 75K miles on the clock! and is a 2000 GTI

That's precisely the same method I use minus the hand buff. Which pad did you use for the AIO, and which for the SG? 🙂 I haven't detailed my car in a while since it's so damn hot, and I can't keep my car wet for more than about 2 minutes.
 
Originally posted by: Triumph
Nice car, nice job! Klasse is a great product. Did you know that it has been around for 35 years? Very, very, very few auto detailing products have been around that long. Most last 10 years, tops. Great stuff.

yea im lovin this Klasse stuff. I wanna put on more this weekend...but no need for AIO until fall. just 2 more coats of SG
 
Originally posted by: Descartes
Originally posted by: Aharami
Originally posted by: Descartes
Klasse is a seriously good product. How did you apply it? Is this just the AIO, or did you apply the SG too? How many coats of the SG if you applied it?

Looks great!

this was my first time detailing.

washed, clayed, washed, AIO using porter cable random orbital polisher, hand buff, SG using polisher, hand buff

only 1 coat of SG so far...will quick wash my car again next week and apply another coat of SG

oh btw, my car has 75K miles on the clock! and is a 2000 GTI

That's precisely the same method I use minus the hand buff. Which pad did you use for the AIO, and which for the SG? 🙂 I haven't detailed my car in a while since it's so damn hot, and I can't keep my car wet for more than about 2 minutes.

ok i got this from a guy in autopia...he seems to know what he is talkin about. i had some trouble applying SG and buffing it so i posted some advice. here is what he had to say
In order to apply SG using wipe on, wipe off, you should do the following:

1. Take a terry covered foam applicator and spray it with water.

I initially recommended spraying the applicatior with a non-carnuba QD or water. I've changed my mind about this. Just stick to good old tap water. Too many different QD's out there that give different results.

Squeeze the applicator as much as you can so that most of the water is gone. All you should have is a slightly damp applicator. This will make the SG more pliable.

2. Apply a couple of drops of SG to your applicator and apply it to a section of your car (1/3 of the hood, half of the roof, etc) in a front to back motion. Once you have covered the whole section with SG, immediately wipe off the residue with a DRY charisma or MF towel in a front to back motion.

3. Repeat step 2 for every section until the whole car is done.


Notes:

- As mentioned before, wipe the SG off immediately, no dry time is necessary.

- The SG should wipe off very easily leaving behind a slick, smooth, and glossy finish.

- You should use no more than 1oz. of SG per coat on a regular size car (BMW 3 Series, Mercedes-Benz C-Class)

- Only perform step 1 one time, before applying SG to the first panel. You do NOT need to spritz your applicator with water before applying SG to each section. Once you apply SG to a couple of sections the applicator will be wet enough with SG, negating the need for more water.

-Do not use any water or QD to aid in removal of SG. This will just cause the klasse SG to develop an oily haze/film down the road. I've also experienced this.

-Wait AT LEAST 24 hours before applying another coat of SG. SG needs time to cure and bond to your paint surface. I would personally wait a week. If you've driven the car ANYWHERE, then wash it before applying the next layer, or else you will just re-swirl your car.

-Put on three coats of SG, and you will be good to go.

-If you desire more warmth and depth in your paint, then apply a pure carnuba wax (no cleaner waxes) a week after you?ve applied the third layer of SG. Make sure you wash before you wax. You may experience some streaking or ghosting of the wax. I did, but it wasn?t enough to bother me. This is because SG and carnuba (any carnuba) don?t entirely get along. Consider yourself warned.

That's it!
 
Originally posted by: Descartes
Originally posted by: Aharami
Originally posted by: Descartes
Klasse is a seriously good product. How did you apply it? Is this just the AIO, or did you apply the SG too? How many coats of the SG if you applied it?

Looks great!

this was my first time detailing.

washed, clayed, washed, AIO using porter cable random orbital polisher, hand buff, SG using polisher, hand buff

only 1 coat of SG so far...will quick wash my car again next week and apply another coat of SG

oh btw, my car has 75K miles on the clock! and is a 2000 GTI

That's precisely the same method I use minus the hand buff. Which pad did you use for the AIO, and which for the SG? 🙂 I haven't detailed my car in a while since it's so damn hot, and I can't keep my car wet for more than about 2 minutes.


hmm i just realized i didnt answer all your questions.

i used the white polishing foam pad (for the porter cable) for AIO and the grey finishing pad (PC) for the SG. but next time i'm not gonna use PC for SG again. im gonna try what that guy in autopia forums suggested

yea the heat is definately a problem. so what i did was wash the roof and upto the bottom of the windows first...dry it. then wash each panel and dry it...taking care not to splash too much water on already washed and dried panel...and wiping off splashes immediately. >>> NO water spots...

but i applied AIO and SG late in the afternoon when the car was under the house's shadow
 
Originally posted by: Aharami
Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: Aharami
it went from
this
to
this

i had no clue Klasse could change the look of my wheels so much!!! 😛

some more pics of my car...

front wheel..no more horrendous wheel gap
rear shot...a lot meaner stance!
rear wheel aah i need bigger rotors (they are on their way)
a dusk shot
Do me a favor... in warm weather, find a deserted stretch of dry, well-maintained road and get up to 60mph. Then stomp on the brakes (as hard as possible) until you stop. Does ABS engage?


last i checked, ABS engaged...this was b4 i got the new wheels. why do u ask?

hmmm...i can't fathom why ABS would engage on such a light car. I've done full-on 60-5 stops in my father's 1998 Audi A6 2.8 30v fwd (to bed in some new brake pads, mintex), and did not engaged ABS (if I did, it was not felt trough the pedal). Tires I had on at the time were BFGoodrich KDWS. I didn't lock up the wheels either, the KDWS must be some sticky tires. Right now there's 205/55/16 bridgestone RE950 on.

Oh, and a tip when you do do panic or full-on braking; make sure that your pads and rotors are warmed up, brakeing that hard with cold brakes can thermally shock the pads and rotors and create stress fractures in the rotor's surface, which is not good for the longevity of your brakes. If you do racing like auto-x, or scca road racing like at road atlanta or willow springs, you should do (about 3-5) medium stops from 60-45 to warm up the brakes. Dragging the brakes isn't a good idea to warm up the brakes.

To the OP, you might want to think twice about upgrading only the rear brakes to a bigger setup, most of the braking is done on the front brakes, so if you were to get a big brake kit just for the rear, you would surely upset the braking balance. I would suggest getting a bigger brake pacakge for the front and rear, or just for the front, and slotted rotors, upgraded pads for the rear. I believe stoptech makes full kits for your car, while stoptech is expensive, they sure are worth it. Pair that along with stainless steel lines, and ATE super blue or super 200 brake fluid and you have yourself a nice setup.
 
Originally posted by: TechnoKid
Originally posted by: Aharami
Originally posted by: Howard
Originally posted by: Aharami
it went from
this
to
this

i had no clue Klasse could change the look of my wheels so much!!! 😛

some more pics of my car...

front wheel..no more horrendous wheel gap
rear shot...a lot meaner stance!
rear wheel aah i need bigger rotors (they are on their way)
a dusk shot
Do me a favor... in warm weather, find a deserted stretch of dry, well-maintained road and get up to 60mph. Then stomp on the brakes (as hard as possible) until you stop. Does ABS engage?


last i checked, ABS engaged...this was b4 i got the new wheels. why do u ask?

hmmm...i can't fathom why ABS would engage on such a light car. I've done full-on 60-5 stops in my father's 1998 Audi A6 2.8 30v fwd (to bed in some new brake pads, mintex), and did not engaged ABS (if I did, it was not felt trough the pedal). Tires I had on at the time were BFGoodrich KDWS. I didn't lock up the wheels either, the KDWS must be some sticky tires. Right now there's 205/55/16 bridgestone RE950 on.

Oh, and a tip when you do do panic or full-on braking; make sure that your pads and rotors are warmed up, brakeing that hard with cold brakes can thermally shock the pads and rotors and create stress fractures in the rotor's surface, which is not good for the longevity of your brakes. If you do racing like auto-x, or scca road racing like at road atlanta or willow springs, you should do (about 3-5) medium stops from 60-45 to warm up the brakes. Dragging the brakes isn't a good idea to warm up the brakes.

To the OP, you might want to think twice about upgrading only the rear brakes to a bigger setup, most of the braking is done on the front brakes, so if you were to get a big brake kit just for the rear, you would surely upset the braking balance. I would suggest getting a bigger brake pacakge for the front and rear, or just for the front, and slotted rotors, upgraded pads for the rear. I believe stoptech makes full kits for your car, while stoptech is expensive, they sure are worth it. Pair that along with stainless steel lines, and ATE super blue or super 200 brake fluid and you have yourself a nice setup.

hmmm. well i never braked all out...but couple of times when it was snowing or raining, i had to brake hard cuz some moron cut me off or pulled in front of me...i definately felt the ABS thru the pedal!!

not sure about summer though. will have to try it out.

oh i didnt get bigger rotors per se....just better ones. when i was replacing the wheels, i noticed my rotors are all rusted out and probably wearing thinner than min specs. so i went over to ECStuning.com and ordered a set of OEM sized cross-drilled and slotted rotors with mintex red box brake pads. i cant afford $700+ on a big brake setup
 
Originally posted by: Aharami

hmmm. well i never braked all out...but couple of times when it was snowing or raining, i had to brake hard cuz some moron cut me off or pulled in front of me...i definately felt the ABS thru the pedal!!

not sure about summer though. will have to try it out.

oh i didnt get bigger rotors per se....just better ones. when i was replacing the wheels, i noticed my rotors are all rusted out and probably wearing thinner than min specs. so i went over to ECStuning.com and ordered a set of OEM sized cross-drilled and slotted rotors with mintex red box brake pads. i cant afford $700+ on a big brake setup

Maybe it was just the rotor hats that were rusted, but not a bad idea to replace the rotors at the same time to replace the pads (the rear rotors on Audis/VWs are kinda thin to begine with, and turning just makes them that mush more prone to warping). Me personally, I would have just went with slotted rotors or solid brembo rotors, cross drilled are more prone to cracking, and slotted/drilled rotors tend to wear pads a little faster than solid rotors. Also, solid rotors have more surface area to brake to. The mintex reds definately dust less than the stock pads; have em on the rear of my dad's A6.

Are you going to be replacing them yourself?
 
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