- Sep 13, 2001
- 53,549
- 6,375
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Since it seems that thread is getting kind of side tracked, and there seems to be quite some interest in people modding/building their own joysticks, I decided to create this thread.
My project was basically to make a joystick that would work on the PS3 and Xbox360 running from the same USB cable, and having a switch to tell the joystick which USB signals to send through the cable. So when playing xbox360, it's set one direction, and the PS3, the other direction.
I'll start with the exact parts list that I used.
- Street Fighter Anniversary Collection joystick (the casing)
- 1 Happ Competition 8 way joystick
- 6 Happ convex buttons
- 2 Happy button plugs
- 1 Mad Catz Xbox Arcade Joystick (comes with 3 XBLA games)
- 1 Cthulhu PCB
- 1 DPDT switch
- 1 12way terminal
(the 2 start/select buttons are the ones that came w/the original joystick)
Then the tools/stuff I used ...
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Flux
- A lot of 22awg wire (probably coulda used larger # awg but couldn't find any)
- Hot glue gun
- Heat shrink
- Screws/nails (used to secure the PCB's to the wood)
- Scissors
- A LOT OF TIME AND PATIENCE!
Okay I think that is literally everything I used when putting it together heh.
I bought the joystick, buttons, and cthulhu from Lizard Lick..
I got the mad catz controller from Gamestop but had to go in store as theyd on't sell em online, but every store in a 1 mile radius of me had em in stock.
Keep this in mind. The Mad Catz Joystick I listed is not 100% necessary for this mod, however it is very cheap, and most importantly, it has a common ground among the PCB. In order to do this mod, YOU MUST HAVE A CONTROLLER WITH A COMMON GROUND!. Previously I had a wired microsoft xbox360 controller, but it was the early version and did not have a common ground, so i had to get rid of it and get the new one. Here is a page that helped me out and has diagrams of the guts of a lot of controllers.
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/p...ring.html#PCB_DIAGRAMS
Then I got the other stuff at radio shack and the hardware store.
Since I already had the case I did not have to worry about building one. I simply had to gut my case since I was putting completely new parts in mine. I had to take it apart more than I actually wanted in order to put a new joystick in heh.
Well other than measuring wires and what not, the rest is basically just following a diagram. I created a diagram with the EXACT wiring I used. I did not wire up the last 2 buttons on my joystick and filled them in with button plugs instead. From personal experience with that stick, I found that having 4 buttons on each row would only do me harm, with me losing my position sometimes on the buttons, so I didn't bother. So when following my diagram, keep in mind I did not wire up the LT/RT buttons on the xbox360, nor L1 and L2 on the PS3 board.
Here is the (ghetto but it gets the point accross) diagram.
http://i39.tinypic.com/dw4akg.jpg
The "Xbox360 wire coming in" part is the wire coming to the Xbox360 PCB that plugs into the console. Right where the wire meets the PCB, bare wire is exposed. At that point, you have to cut the USB +/- data cables (the white and green ones) and then run that wire to the center of the DPDT switch. I had to attach additional wire to that green and white wire because you don't have much to work with once you but it from the PCB. THe green wire is the data +, and the white is the data -.
Then the USB wire running from the left side of the switch to the Xbox360 PCB is a wire I soldered to the +/- points on the other side of the PCB, opposite where the actual USB plug is connected to the PCB.
As I said, that is the EXACT TO THE T wiring schematic I used, so if you have any questions I can probably answer them. I am by no means an electronics expert at all, so some stuff may be over my head.
Also note, I did not expose the headset connector of my Xbox360 PCB (which I actually tucked under the PCB) because I use the wireless headset, so you may want to mount your Xbox360 PCB somewhere where you can expose the headset input.
So if you guys have any questions feel free to ask me about it and I'll let you know. I have attached some pics of my project below.
Cthulhu in pieces
Cthulhu built.
Joystick raped just to change the new joystick.
New buttons/joystick installed, ready to be wired up (notice the 2 button plugs for the last 2 buttons in the row)
Signal wires all installed.
Layout of where the PCB's will lie
Cthulhu wired up.
Mad Catz Xbox360 PCB wired up
Nasty looking when PCBs in case not wired up. (note the daisy chain of the ground wires is already done)
Cthulhu wired in
All wired up and ready to go!
Switch exposed. (I'm actually goign to put wood putty in there, then cover with a sticker w/xbox360 and ps3 on it on their corresponding sides, will update when finished)
Putty has been placed ...
Finished and ready to whoop some ass in SF4!
My project was basically to make a joystick that would work on the PS3 and Xbox360 running from the same USB cable, and having a switch to tell the joystick which USB signals to send through the cable. So when playing xbox360, it's set one direction, and the PS3, the other direction.
I'll start with the exact parts list that I used.
- Street Fighter Anniversary Collection joystick (the casing)
- 1 Happ Competition 8 way joystick
- 6 Happ convex buttons
- 2 Happy button plugs
- 1 Mad Catz Xbox Arcade Joystick (comes with 3 XBLA games)
- 1 Cthulhu PCB
- 1 DPDT switch
- 1 12way terminal
(the 2 start/select buttons are the ones that came w/the original joystick)
Then the tools/stuff I used ...
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Flux
- A lot of 22awg wire (probably coulda used larger # awg but couldn't find any)
- Hot glue gun
- Heat shrink
- Screws/nails (used to secure the PCB's to the wood)
- Scissors
- A LOT OF TIME AND PATIENCE!
Okay I think that is literally everything I used when putting it together heh.
I bought the joystick, buttons, and cthulhu from Lizard Lick..
I got the mad catz controller from Gamestop but had to go in store as theyd on't sell em online, but every store in a 1 mile radius of me had em in stock.
Keep this in mind. The Mad Catz Joystick I listed is not 100% necessary for this mod, however it is very cheap, and most importantly, it has a common ground among the PCB. In order to do this mod, YOU MUST HAVE A CONTROLLER WITH A COMMON GROUND!. Previously I had a wired microsoft xbox360 controller, but it was the early version and did not have a common ground, so i had to get rid of it and get the new one. Here is a page that helped me out and has diagrams of the guts of a lot of controllers.
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/p...ring.html#PCB_DIAGRAMS
Then I got the other stuff at radio shack and the hardware store.
Since I already had the case I did not have to worry about building one. I simply had to gut my case since I was putting completely new parts in mine. I had to take it apart more than I actually wanted in order to put a new joystick in heh.
Well other than measuring wires and what not, the rest is basically just following a diagram. I created a diagram with the EXACT wiring I used. I did not wire up the last 2 buttons on my joystick and filled them in with button plugs instead. From personal experience with that stick, I found that having 4 buttons on each row would only do me harm, with me losing my position sometimes on the buttons, so I didn't bother. So when following my diagram, keep in mind I did not wire up the LT/RT buttons on the xbox360, nor L1 and L2 on the PS3 board.
Here is the (ghetto but it gets the point accross) diagram.
http://i39.tinypic.com/dw4akg.jpg
The "Xbox360 wire coming in" part is the wire coming to the Xbox360 PCB that plugs into the console. Right where the wire meets the PCB, bare wire is exposed. At that point, you have to cut the USB +/- data cables (the white and green ones) and then run that wire to the center of the DPDT switch. I had to attach additional wire to that green and white wire because you don't have much to work with once you but it from the PCB. THe green wire is the data +, and the white is the data -.
Then the USB wire running from the left side of the switch to the Xbox360 PCB is a wire I soldered to the +/- points on the other side of the PCB, opposite where the actual USB plug is connected to the PCB.
As I said, that is the EXACT TO THE T wiring schematic I used, so if you have any questions I can probably answer them. I am by no means an electronics expert at all, so some stuff may be over my head.
Also note, I did not expose the headset connector of my Xbox360 PCB (which I actually tucked under the PCB) because I use the wireless headset, so you may want to mount your Xbox360 PCB somewhere where you can expose the headset input.
So if you guys have any questions feel free to ask me about it and I'll let you know. I have attached some pics of my project below.
Cthulhu in pieces
Cthulhu built.
Joystick raped just to change the new joystick.
New buttons/joystick installed, ready to be wired up (notice the 2 button plugs for the last 2 buttons in the row)
Signal wires all installed.
Layout of where the PCB's will lie
Cthulhu wired up.
Mad Catz Xbox360 PCB wired up
Nasty looking when PCBs in case not wired up. (note the daisy chain of the ground wires is already done)
Cthulhu wired in
All wired up and ready to go!
Switch exposed. (I'm actually goign to put wood putty in there, then cover with a sticker w/xbox360 and ps3 on it on their corresponding sides, will update when finished)
Putty has been placed ...
Finished and ready to whoop some ass in SF4!
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