- Jun 30, 2004
- 15,699
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OK. You know it's my Trooper. YOu know that I fuss over it. You know, that of the four some-odd things that occupy my senior retired life, one of them is . . . my Trooper. I'm essentially making educated gambles based on the probabilities, statistics, mileages and expected lifespans of components, as I defer buying a newer used or brand-new vehicle. I count on the Trooper being a viable ride for another ten years. IF not ten, then five.
I've thumped my chest about my GM engine. At what is now 192,000 miles, I cite as my reasons: no oil consumption; very little in the way of oil leakage from the mainseal -- if any, stellar smog-test results every time, plenty of power -- but for detractors who call the Trooper a "Pooper". Then, there is the following intelligence I've received from a peanut gallery of successive mechanics:
1st solid-gold mechanic from 2005 to 2018:
2007 -- "Damn! That's a good engine!"
2009 [after broken timing belt, damaged water-pump and radiator and a tow from AAA to his shop -- and following his repairs for same]: "Damn! That's a good engine!"
2017 -- "Damn! that's a good engine!"
Smog-test station owner/operator:
2018 -- "Don't do ANY-thing with this engine! It's perfect!"
Let me take you back to 2005, three years after I purchased the car used. I went to my aunt's wake across town. My cousin had been a mechanic, then he got into the smog-test business for the state. I remarked that there seemed to be a sticking valve lifter -- "Tick-tick tick tick tick . . . . . . . . . tick tick tick tick tick . . . . . . . " Cousin had told me "Why don't you get some 'Murican Iron to drive?" Well -- it IS American Iron: the engine and tranny are GM. As for the noisy lifter, he told me "Eventually, it will get worse . . . " That was 56,000 miles ago. And -- No -- it never got worse.
In 2007, the 1st solid gold mechanic had put a can of engine flush in the crankcase before an oil change, and didn't mention why, but I simply assumed it was a good idea. Other than that, when he didn't "say anything", he always said "the same thing".
In 2018, I was trying out an alternate repair-shop because 1st solid gold mechanic had retired. The proprietor told me "If the noisy valve lifter annoys -- just add a bit more oil."
And I tried that -- with an extra 16 oz or half-quart on top of the full mark. He was right -- more or less.
But I soon began to wonder how I might reduce the noise more or just eliminate it. Here and there, a little reading among internet offerings.
Supposedly, the sticking lifter could be the result of crud build-up in the engine, with a slightly-obstructed oil channel. So, beginning last year, I've done more than required oil changes -- easy with my Valvo-Max drain valve. I started putting in a half-bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil (~ 20W) mixed with a half-quart of 10W/40 -- 10W/30 for the remainder, hoping it would dissolve some of the crud and varnish.
More or less -- it did. Status of the symptom? If I start the engine cold, it exhibits the valve-lifter noise. By the time it warms up to operating temperature, most of it goes away. A muffled, barely detectable ticking occurs in cycles -- 20 seconds without, then returning for a few seconds, etc. etc.
I've decided to use a "real" engine flush instead of Marvel, so I ordered a can of Liqui-Moly flush.
Now suppose I can't entirely resolve this entirely with additives and oil changes?
If I went 54,000 miles after my Cousin's presumptuous pronouncements, can I get another 30,000 without having any significant engine work done? And if I want to just fix and replace the lifters -- all the noise seems to be coming from the drivers-side of the V6 -- the mechanic will need to: 1) remove the common chamber or intake manifold, making various hose and wire disconnections, 2) remove the valve cover -- at minimum on the driver's side, and 3) service the valves and valve-lifters. I understand parts for this are inexpensive. The preparatory actions of (1) and (2) are more time-consuming.
So I could ask "how much am I likely to spend on such an action?" and I might add -- if you remove the common chamber, then might as well pull the passenger-side valve cover off and service all of the valves and lifters.
Or -- suppose I just "let it go", and apply additives?
The other morning -- a cold morning indeed for a So-Cal Cinqo de Mayo -- I went out to start the car and it didn't go through the ticking ritual before it warmed up. It was absent the lifter noise from the minute I turned the key.
I suppose anyone can see how an obsessive car-owner can become familiar with noises and progressively more sensitive to them.
In the end, I just want the car to last another ten years without significant repair. These last three years have been extraordinary for higher-than-average outlays, but I can't really count the new tires I ordered and installed three weeks ago.
I've thumped my chest about my GM engine. At what is now 192,000 miles, I cite as my reasons: no oil consumption; very little in the way of oil leakage from the mainseal -- if any, stellar smog-test results every time, plenty of power -- but for detractors who call the Trooper a "Pooper". Then, there is the following intelligence I've received from a peanut gallery of successive mechanics:
1st solid-gold mechanic from 2005 to 2018:
2007 -- "Damn! That's a good engine!"
2009 [after broken timing belt, damaged water-pump and radiator and a tow from AAA to his shop -- and following his repairs for same]: "Damn! That's a good engine!"
2017 -- "Damn! that's a good engine!"
Smog-test station owner/operator:
2018 -- "Don't do ANY-thing with this engine! It's perfect!"
Let me take you back to 2005, three years after I purchased the car used. I went to my aunt's wake across town. My cousin had been a mechanic, then he got into the smog-test business for the state. I remarked that there seemed to be a sticking valve lifter -- "Tick-tick tick tick tick . . . . . . . . . tick tick tick tick tick . . . . . . . " Cousin had told me "Why don't you get some 'Murican Iron to drive?" Well -- it IS American Iron: the engine and tranny are GM. As for the noisy lifter, he told me "Eventually, it will get worse . . . " That was 56,000 miles ago. And -- No -- it never got worse.
In 2007, the 1st solid gold mechanic had put a can of engine flush in the crankcase before an oil change, and didn't mention why, but I simply assumed it was a good idea. Other than that, when he didn't "say anything", he always said "the same thing".
In 2018, I was trying out an alternate repair-shop because 1st solid gold mechanic had retired. The proprietor told me "If the noisy valve lifter annoys -- just add a bit more oil."
And I tried that -- with an extra 16 oz or half-quart on top of the full mark. He was right -- more or less.
But I soon began to wonder how I might reduce the noise more or just eliminate it. Here and there, a little reading among internet offerings.
Supposedly, the sticking lifter could be the result of crud build-up in the engine, with a slightly-obstructed oil channel. So, beginning last year, I've done more than required oil changes -- easy with my Valvo-Max drain valve. I started putting in a half-bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil (~ 20W) mixed with a half-quart of 10W/40 -- 10W/30 for the remainder, hoping it would dissolve some of the crud and varnish.
More or less -- it did. Status of the symptom? If I start the engine cold, it exhibits the valve-lifter noise. By the time it warms up to operating temperature, most of it goes away. A muffled, barely detectable ticking occurs in cycles -- 20 seconds without, then returning for a few seconds, etc. etc.
I've decided to use a "real" engine flush instead of Marvel, so I ordered a can of Liqui-Moly flush.
Now suppose I can't entirely resolve this entirely with additives and oil changes?
If I went 54,000 miles after my Cousin's presumptuous pronouncements, can I get another 30,000 without having any significant engine work done? And if I want to just fix and replace the lifters -- all the noise seems to be coming from the drivers-side of the V6 -- the mechanic will need to: 1) remove the common chamber or intake manifold, making various hose and wire disconnections, 2) remove the valve cover -- at minimum on the driver's side, and 3) service the valves and valve-lifters. I understand parts for this are inexpensive. The preparatory actions of (1) and (2) are more time-consuming.
So I could ask "how much am I likely to spend on such an action?" and I might add -- if you remove the common chamber, then might as well pull the passenger-side valve cover off and service all of the valves and lifters.
Or -- suppose I just "let it go", and apply additives?
The other morning -- a cold morning indeed for a So-Cal Cinqo de Mayo -- I went out to start the car and it didn't go through the ticking ritual before it warmed up. It was absent the lifter noise from the minute I turned the key.
I suppose anyone can see how an obsessive car-owner can become familiar with noises and progressively more sensitive to them.
In the end, I just want the car to last another ten years without significant repair. These last three years have been extraordinary for higher-than-average outlays, but I can't really count the new tires I ordered and installed three weeks ago.