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no antiseize, will it be ok?

A

alphatarget1

Diamond Member
the first scheduled tune-up for one of our cars was at 105k miles. We did it just now at a little less than 100k with the same type of spark plugs, so the next one should be around 200k. I didn't have any anti-seize compound around so I just put that in. Do you think it'll be a problem? It's an aluminum block engine, 1.8L, in CA.
 
Did you use anything at all on the threads? I've never used anti-seize on spark plugs, just a little bit of motor oil. I don't think I've ever put them in dry, but the plugs I use appear to have some lubricant on the threads right out of the box.

You'll have to defer to the experts as to whether you should pull them now and lube.
 
You have an aluminum engine block. You need to use it or you will have a hard time and maybe damage the spark plug hole threads when you remove them again in 100K miles. If they are easy to get to, remove them and apply a small amount.
Also, on aluminum heads, do not over tighten the plugs. Use a torque wrench if it fits or go about 1/4 turn or so past when the plug seats without force.
 
sjwaste said:
Did you use anything at all on the threads? I've never used anti-seize on spark plugs, just a little bit of motor oil. I don't think I've ever put them in dry, but the plugs I use appear to have some lubricant on the threads right out of the box.

You'll have to defer to the experts as to whether you should pull them now and lube.
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I never put lube on threads because it'll affect torquing the bolt as I understand it. I'll pull them out and put some antiseize on it. It's pretty easy, and I4 engine with easy to get to plugs.
 
bruceb said:
You have an aluminum engine block. You need to use it or you will have a hard time and maybe damage the spark plug hole threads when you remove them again in 100K miles. If they are easy to get to, remove them and apply a small amount.
Also, on aluminum heads, do not over tighten the plugs. Use a torque wrench if it fits or go about 1/4 turn or so past when the plug seats without force.
Click to expand...


Spark plugs don't screw into the block. 😉
 
Now that I read some stuff online people are saying NOT to use antiseize for plugs coated with nickel on an aluminum block due to not able to apply the right torque. Maybe I'll just leave them in. I'll let y'all know when this sentra has 200k miles whether I will have trouble removing the plugs
 
imagoon said:
Expect to possibly strip the threads out of the head. Anti-seize is there for a reason.
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Depends on the engine. I hear people swear both ways (using it will destroy your head / not using it will destroy your head) for the modular ford V8 in my car. I haven't been using it and it hasn't been an issue.
 
You are correct, I meant to type heads. But either way, anti seize should still be used on aluminum heads.
 
LordMorpheus said:
Depends on the engine. I hear people swear both ways (using it will destroy your head / not using it will destroy your head) for the modular ford V8 in my car. I haven't been using it and it hasn't been an issue.
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I have had to work on an I4 where the plugs were seized. We tried numerous things to break them free like headtng the area around the plug hole, running the engine till hot then trying, letting it half cool etc. When the most temperamental one finally "broke," it took about 1/2 the threads with it. Aluminum head Ford Escort.
 
I've been replacing the plugs in my aluminum head for about 100k miles without any anti-seize, never had a plug rip the threads out. I changed the plugs about 6 times since purchasing the car.

More anecdotal evidence that ultimately doesn't help you. If you're concerned about it put some oil or anti-seize on the plugs, if you're concerned about fouling the plugs then take a gamble and leave the threads dry.
 
Buy quality plugs and many of their manufacturers recommend you do NOT use anti-seize.

Then again, Ford had a HUGE problem with their V-8's breaking seized plugs off in the head.

The techs at the dealerships use a special tool to get the broken part out, and anti-seize on the threads to install the new plugs.


But honestly, NOBODY I know of, other than dweebs with foreign cars, a manual and too much time on their hands, actually torque spark plugs with anything other than their wrist.

I guess if you've never done it before, or you're just the anal type, fine....but people who do it all the time typically do not torque plugs.

And for the record, anti seize definitely does change the torque spec. You should never use it on bolts where torque REALLY matters, like head bolts.

But for plugs, if you've done many, you know how to snug them down correctly without screwing them up.
 
kornphlake said:
I've been replacing the plugs in my aluminum head for about 100k miles without any anti-seize, never had a plug rip the threads out. I changed the plugs about 6 times since purchasing the car.

More anecdotal evidence that ultimately doesn't help you. If you're concerned about it put some oil or anti-seize on the plugs, if you're concerned about fouling the plugs then take a gamble and leave the threads dry.
Click to expand...

You have 600K miles on the engine? We are talking about plugs that have been left in for 100K miles. If you change them every 20K miles, there is obviously nothing to worry about. It's the 100K mile change interval that can result in seized plugs.
 
I can't remember his name but one of the old timers who always opined on this stuff said NOT to use anti-seize on spark plugs.

Personally, though, I use it, as do most people.

I know it's not "right" but my torque wrench for plugs is always my hand. I just do them snug 😉

When it doubt go with service manual. I remember in this debate a few years ago somebody broke it out for a Ford or something like that and it did say to use anti-seize. That was only for one specific engine, though.
 
I'm guessing that this varies by mfg and engine and the spark plug itself. There are also different types of anti-seize compounds like copper versions.
 
LordMorpheus said:
Depends on the engine. I hear people swear both ways (using it will destroy your head / not using it will destroy your head) for the modular ford V8 in my car. I haven't been using it and it hasn't been an issue.
Click to expand...

Absolutely DO NOT put plugs in your Ford Modular V8 engines without anti-seize.

P.S. - I work for Ford.
 
In my old CRX years ago I'd go ~30k miles between sparkplug changes, and never had any problems. Then around 120k I cleaned up one of the holes with carb cleaner (it had gotten some oil on it from a leaky valvecover gasket). When I went to change them 30k miles later the spark plug I had cleaned the threads on was stuck solid. I tried all sorts of different things to get it out, until finally the ceramic portion broke off leaving the metal portion of the sparkplug in the head.

I had to pull the head, have the sparkplug sleeve drilled out, and the hole re-tapped. From now on for cheap insurance I'll always use anti-seize on mine...

My anecdotal $0.02
 
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