Newbies guide to Chilled Liquid Cooling W/ Build log*CANCLED*

[DerwenArtos12]

Thanks WB. I may just yet, if for no other reason than to keep it clean. Were I to want a set of elbows that had 1/4 BSPP male threads on one end and female threads on the other, one taller on the male end by enough that it could rotate above the other so I could screw them straight into the block. What do you think?

 

[WoodButcher]

The threaded nipple is longer than the nipple on the barbs, see the last pic I posted, when I dry fitted them, no teflon tape to the swiftech 320 rad I have they almost bottomed out. As is there may be too much protrusion into the block, I'm not sure. If some of the threads were cut off and cleaned up I think it would be ok. Certainly using the elbow w/ the standard barb and tubing will work, in fact using the elbow w/ a longer pipe on one and the tubing as a coupling for both would work but for me, I would use just the tubing if it will make the radius w/o kinking. What is the ID of the tubing your using and does it stretch at all?

 

[WoodButcher]

It just dawned on me,,,,I can get longer threaded nipples, so yeah, it can be done fairly easily. It is just the thread depth question. Got a dremel? See here, the barbs protrude just "so far"? If they bottom too deep take them out and cut them shorter. The nipples I'm using are pipe thread that get larger the farther in they thread, it is the thread and teflon tape that make the seal. I can make them up and you cut the threaded end to length, trial and error thing.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: WoodButcher
The threaded nipple is longer than the nipple on the barbs, see the last pic I posted, when I dry fitted them, no teflon tape to the swiftech 320 rad I have they almost bottomed out. As is there may be too much protrusion into the block, I'm not sure. If some of the threads were cut off and cleaned up I think it would be ok. Certainly using the elbow w/ the standard barb and tubing will work, in fact using the elbow w/ a longer pipe on one and the tubing as a coupling for both would work but for me, I would use just the tubing if it will make the radius w/o kinking. What is the ID of the tubing your using and does it stretch at all?

I'm using Tygon Silver anti-microbial tubing because it's the cheapest rated to handle the temps I could be diving to and the chemicals I'm using. It's full 1/2" ID 3/4" OD with an ultimate elongation of 240%. Thats pretty low elongation so I'd say it does stretch but, not without some hot water and a bit of a fight.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Did my first liquid only pulldown today. 30 minutes to -28C and she could have kept going with time. That was with no load and no recirculation though. Also that was without any insulation on the suction line, I've got a pic of the ice buildup on the suction line that I'll get up in the morning along with a pic of the readout at -28C.

EDIT: Oh, and I've begun insulating the board but, don't have pictures of the progress up to this point, the cats got a hold of my microSD card and they're quite gone, grabbed a new one today and will have pictures of from here forward up soon.

 

[WoodButcher]

That tubing will slide right on, I like your idea of the different heights and might use it my self , this morning I'm going to search around town for assorted length brass nipples, but if I can't get the lengths i need I've a way to make them w/the pipe,
I fixed my link, sorry!
this The threaded ells I pictured for example, dimension A = 1 9/16", B = 1 9/16", C = 1 1/16" ID = 7/16" and the OD at the same location is 1/2".
That is what I linked to earlier, I didn't mark the dimensions I need from you to make the extended lengths. I need a number from the block out / up to the points you want to exit the case, centers will work. Closest center to center that would be comfortable I think is about 1", this gives a little room for tubing and clamps. Keep in mind you'll need to install the short one first, then the taller, so if the short one leaks you'll need to remove both.
If you like PM me the numbers w/ your address and I can get them out sometime the beginning of this week.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

I'm actually right in the middle of flow testing the block, lol. this thing is so amaizingly restrictive. My 375GPH 3m head pond pump is being cut down to about a gallon a minute, at room temperature, imagine whats going to happen when I'm pumping -20C alcohol through it. I may have to build a top for it, I'm going to see what I can do about modifying the existing barbs and mid-plate first to see where that gets me.

 

[WoodButcher]

Maybe the Dtek then?
With the chilled fluid restriction and accelerators really aren't needed are they? Seems to me all that engineering they do on the tops becomes a moot point if your coolant is sub ambient, I had a Thermaltake block 2 winters ago hooked up to a rad w/ cold outside air. The block had no pins just an S channel and my temps were 12c at idle. I didn't run it long because of the condensation but I had to see what I could do for OC. As I recall it wasn't great but when we get bored we do stupid stuff like build chillers,,,

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Flow testing the block, i've got to say, I'm thoroughly amazed. It's dropped my 6.25 gpm pump down to about 1gpm and the pressure at the outlet of the return tubing is non-existent and thats with ambient temp water! I can't imagine what -20C alcohol is going to do. Block modifications are now completely eminent.

UPDATE:Bored out the bards to true 3/8" ID all the way through, new flow numbers are just over 1.5gpm barbs were a biggie with this block, am still considering purchasing higher flowing barbs. that extra 1/16" up to 7/16" ID barbs may be worth it as the 3/64" from stock to 3/8" upped flow by just over 50%.

EDIT: Just to clarify on testing procedures, they're far from anything concrete. I simply ran the pump with the block inline about halfway through the output tubing with a total of 10ft tubing, 3 intake and 7 output(3 between pump and block and 4 from block out) and in order to test flow I simply filled a 1 gallon jug. For the 1gpm claim I used a standard sports stopwatch, ran 61 seconds to full. re-test with opened barbs was 39 seconds.

 

[Rebel44]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
On another note, some digging this morning has found a czech review that includes a modified top for the xwb-1 make by http://www.wroom.wz.cz/. I can't find it on their website but the review links them directly. I don't suppose anyone here can read Czech?

I speak Czech pretty well - if you need to translate something just send me link to that review - I will send you my email in PM

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Just a quicky update for those interested:

Insulation is taking a lot longer than expected. I'm overdoing the heck out of it as I want to kill this board from rediculous overclocks and stupid voltages, not condensation. I'm playing with an insulation method I'm kind of carrying over from automotive/aerospace that is distinct overkill but, extremely effective. I'm essentially gasketizing some closed cell foam with liquid electrical tape. This way I have the air-tight seal created by the liquid electrical tape without the residue. I'm at 7 total foam gaket layers and counting. I haven't done any tubing or suction line insulation at all as I still haven't settled on a final layout. As it stands right now, the chiller is just gargantuan but, without going through a lot more trouble than I'm willing to ATM I'm pretty much stuck with it like this. I'm also trying to optimize liquid flow, my pump doen't react especially well to back pressure so the shorter the runs on the output side the better, it's got plenty of suction on the inlet side to raise the fluid up a couple feet and it's got decent head not that I've opened up the barbs. I'm going to attempt to mount the pump as high as I can so that the feed line from the cooler to the pump will be about two feet and the run to the waterblock will be about a foot and the run back to the cooler from the block will be about 2.5fett max. Thats substantially shorter than testing to date so I'm hoping to get it up to the 2GPM mark with the shorter runs. Some unloaded pull downs without circulation have settled right in the -28C to -30C area pretty easily. Looks like this is going to bleed over and push back my custom D5 top but, hopefully not more than a couple days. The case should be out of the way on the 9th with final layout and bleeding on the 10th and final tubing insulation and hopefully a first loaded pulldown on the 11th.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

It's been a while but, I've got one last update to go with some sad news, I've had to shelve the project indefinately, along with all of my other projects. I've been completely out of commission for almost a month now and have been in and out of the hospital due to some fairly major health problems. I'll be getting back on here a little more often as I get healthier but, all my projects are on an indefinite hold and a lot of my computer stuff we be going up for sale here in a few weeks when I'm able to catalog it and get prices sorted out. Thats about it for today.

DA12

 

[Tim]

Wow... I'm sorry to hear this. I hope you make through all of this muck fine. I was just asking about you in a post today... Again, I hope you make it out okay sir.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
It's been a while but, I've got one last update to go with some sad news, I've had to shelve the project indefinately, along with all of my other projects. I've been completely out of commission for almost a month now and have been in and out of the hospital due to some fairly major health problems. I'll be getting back on here a little more often as I get healthier but, all my projects are on an indefinite hold and a lot of my computer stuff we be going up for sale here in a few weeks when I'm able to catalog it and get prices sorted out. Thats about it for today.

DA12

awww, i hope you recover quickly.

i hope you didnt get sick off the project. :\

 

[DSF]

Sorry to hear that DA. Always great to read your posts, so get better and come back soon!