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Newbie Overclocking MP Processors QuEsTiOns... AKK!

mastertech01

mastertech01

Moderator Emeritus Elite Member
I have an urge to do something Ive never tried, and that is to overclock my MP 1600 processors on a non overclocking MP board. I am thinking Im probably way out there in my thinking, but hopefully you kind peeps can offer some advice.

From what I have been able to find on the web, since I cant use the bios to help me out here I will have to do all by manipulating the bridges on the processor. By checking the overclockers.com site I have seen a number of peeps running XP1600s dating way back to the 1663 or so range with adequate cooling, and Im presuming with a good overclockers board.

If I were to join the appropriate 2 L4s and cut the other 2, leaving the L3 as they are I should be able to get a 12.5X multiplier, and by doing the same to the L11 I should be able to get the appropriate voltage and end up at 1663.....thats if I am looking at this in the correct perspective.

Am I way off base on this, or am I hoping for too much? I sure wouldnt want to destroy a couple good MP processors without at least asking around a bit.

Oh and I plan on using water cooling with this when completed.

Thanks
 
BUMPs for you, and hope you find the answer to your questions.

I would lend a hand, but sadly only know about XPs not a thing about MPs

🙂🙂🙂🙂
 
Thanks 🙂 Essentially these are the same as the XP, just come certified as SMP and unlocked from the factory AFAIK.. 🙂
 
Originally posted by: mastertech01
Thanks 🙂 Essentially these are the same as the XP, just come certified as SMP and unlocked from the factory AFAIK.. 🙂
Click to expand...

That is correct. And you're right about cutting the bridges to overclock. Since your mobo doesn't allow you to overclock, you've got to fool the MP into thinking it's an XP with a fixed multiplier. But do you really want to cut bridges and reconnect to overclock? It's a big enough pain to unlock an XP; I'd hate to have to cut and reconnect bridges at various points to overclock. If you set the multiplier too high, you've got to go back and recut and reconnect. But I'm sure you knew that. Have you ever unlocked an XP?

Anyway, I don't want to discourage you if you want to do it. What's the stepping of your MP? Let's figure out what the potential is for oc'ing.

jaybee
 
Thanks Jaybee for your reply.. 🙂 These are MP1600 AGKGA and Ive had them since January.

Im just trying to maximize time of use to go thru the rest of the year, and this was an option I was considering. If Im going to have to butcher them up too much I might as well just forget it and continue using them as they are. I was hoping for a 12.5X multiplier to make it even worth the effort but I realize that may be just hoping for too much.

One thing I was not clear in understanding is whether Im going to have to cut all the L1 bridges to lock the processor or leave them attached and just change the L4 and L3. Actually for 12.5X I would only have to reverse the cut and closed bridges on the L4 as the 1600 uses the same configuration for the L3. And I figured I would have to bridge the open voltage pin to make it 1.85V to hope for that much higher clock.

Its all a big gamble though, I realize that.
 
Originally posted by: mastertech01
Thanks Jaybee for your reply.. 🙂 These are MP1600 AGKGA and Ive had them since January.
<snip>
One thing I was not clear in understanding is whether Im going to have to cut all the L1 bridges to lock the processor or leave them attached and just change the L4 and L3. Actually for 12.5X I would only have to reverse the cut and closed bridges on the L4 as the 1600 uses the same configuration for the L3. And I figured I would have to bridge the open voltage pin to make it 1.85V to hope for that much higher clock.
Click to expand...
Good point. I was probably wrong about fooling the board into thinking it's an XP -- you should just have to change the multiplier bridges. Do you have the info on which bridges you'd need to set? I'd leave L1 connected at first go. I wish I had more info for you, but I did manage to dig up a little data on AGKGA overclocking (feeling a little useless here 😉 ):
>1600 ( 1400mhz) 5 tested
>AGKGA Y
>Average 1740Mhz highest 1810Mhz

More data (on different cores) here.

Anyway, if you have the info on which bridges to connect/cut, it sounds like it might be worth a go. What questions do you have besides cutting the L1 (as I said, I'd leave 'em connected)?

jaybee

PS There is some MP-specific info on the page, but I can't read Dutch & don't have a translator 🙁

PPS Try putting this page through Altavista's Japanese to English translator. Tough to follow but the pics should be helpful.
 
Oh man, you have been very helpfull in finding that information.. 🙂 Looks like this core is a pretty good bet, and mine also have the Y code on the third line which that article seems to suggest is preferred for that stepping.. 😀

If those averages could be achieved I may possibly be able to make this work after all. It appears on that last site you are linked to that they indeed cut the L1 bridges. That is really the main question I have on it. I was just trying to make sense of why the MP processor is unlocked with its current bridge setup, yet it would be necessary to lock it by cutting the bridges to reconfigure the bridges? Unfortunately as you have found, information on overclocking in this manner with MP processors is slim pickings compared to XP processor overclocking. I am presuming that is primarily due to the fact that so many single processor boards are avaliable which give you the option to adjust the clock in bios. Unfortunately the dually boards have not been so generous.

Im really just trying to get the most I can with the least financial outlay. I would like to keep my Thunder till next year, and if its possible not have to purchase a new set of processors just to gain a few hundred MHZ. (and because its a wee little bit of a symbolic victory to actually accomplish something new on my own.. LOL 🙂 )

Your information gives me a lot more confidence that this is possible now and I truly appreciate your time and efforts to help out. 🙂

John

EDIT.. yes I have also found all the necessary jumper configs for the L3,L4,L10 and the L11 for the various clock settings and voltage.. 🙂
 
Have you seen this page? I'm not sure it has the info you need re: the L1 bridges, but you can try emailing the author listed at the bottom. Or you might luck out and find what you need to know on the page or one of the links.

jaybee
 
I am not the authority on this topic, but I have read quite a bit on MP athlon systems and overclocking these. Your best bet to OC on the MP/MPX chipset is by multipliers, but I would not take the chance. The best MPX FSB overclocking board (Asus A7M266-D) can only hit 141, and the other good MPX boards (Tyan, MSI) can hit 140 and remain stable. Go any higher than that and lose all stability. I suggest you really read into this before you do anything.
Hope this is worth something 🙂
 
Originally posted by: Technonut
goodsense has a pair of Golden Sockets that he is selling. Link
Click to expand...

Those look pretty cool at first glance. But how do you clip the Golden Slocket to the mobo? From the picture, it looks like it could pull out if you don't have a vertical hsf installation (i.e. a tower). Or does the ZIF socket hold it in?

Oh, almost forgot: the sale link only works for subscribers. Here's a fixed link.

jaybee
 
Originally posted by: KingofFah
I am not the authority on this topic, but I have read quite a bit on MP athlon systems and overclocking these. Your best bet to OC on the MP/MPX chipset is by multipliers, but I would not take the chance. The best MPX FSB overclocking board (Asus A7M266-D) can only hit 141, and the other good MPX boards (Tyan, MSI) can hit 140 and remain stable. Go any higher than that and lose all stability. I suggest you really read into this before you do anything.
Hope this is worth something 🙂
Click to expand...

John's board doesn't support fsb overclocking, so that's not an option for him. All he can do is change the multiplier. Since the XP and MP cores are the same, and his core stepping has gotten some pretty good oc'ing results (see my 2nd post in this thread), he should be able to get a good bump if he can change the multiplier.

jaybee
 
[
Those look pretty cool at first glance. But how do you clip the Golden Slocket to the mobo? From the picture, it looks like it could pull out if you don't have a vertical hsf installation (i.e. a tower). Or does the ZIF socket hold it in?
Click to expand...
I had a couple of the Golden Sockets myself that I purchased for the K7S5A mobos. The device installs just like a processor in the socket, with the lever locking it into place. They do work well, but are a PITA to pull and reset the switches if you do not hit the multplier that you are wanting at first. 😉

If John is planning to watercool, the waterblock(s) mounting hardware will also help to hold everything together nice and snug if the Golden Sockets are used.
 
Hi Sonny, thanks very much for the links and I am going to see if I can procure those sockets if I can. This would allow me to do what I am shooting for and leave the processors intact for later resale. And also can be used again with others... If I cant get them then I will proceed with the sutures.. 🙂

Thanks to all for your input and Ill update my progress. 🙂

BTW that is a good point about the water cooling, as it should allow a little more clearance for the water blocks.. 🙂 Im using swiftech MCW462-BTEC which are designed for pelt use but I dont intend on using the pelts so these will fit in about the same area the pelts would take up with the adaptor plates. 🙂

What I intend to do either way is to pull the mobo out of my tower completely, and test each processor individually with air coolers, and when I hit the best muliplier then Ill setup the water cooling system. 🙂
 
Darn it John.... This post had me looking around my stuff. Let's see... 2 Maze 2 waterblocks, an 1140GPH Quiet One Pump, an original Black Ice radiator, another cube radiator, a full tower case already modded with a 120mm intake/top blow hole, and 2 XP 1800 MPs. So, I just HAD to check Newegg's refurb section and found a:

REFURBISHED: MSI K7D Master (MS-6501 6501-010) AMD760MPX Dual Athlon 266MHz USB 2.0 AGP Pro Socket A ATX MOTHERBOARD For $125.00 bones shipped. 😛 My Wife is gonna kill me, but I ordered it. Now I will have to trade some of my PC2700 RAM for some ECC.. 😉 I now have a dually project in my head on top of my watercooled AT7 and a few others. See whatcha did... 😀 LOL!!

Anyhow, good luck with your project. Just hope that I'm not living in a tent in the backyard (extention cord and power strip for the dually project in tow 🙂) when my Wife sees the FedX guy again. :Q
 
DOH! 🙂 Hehehe.. well I wish you the best of luck with your new project! Even if you have to enjoy it out in the rain.. 🙂

I can pretty much guess she expects these kind of impulses from you by now... LOL!

Well you ARE recycling a lot of stuff that was just sitting around.. 🙂 Cool, now we both have a new project.... I hear that MSI is one fine board!

I just got too much invested in this Ole Thunder SCSI board to make a change there. 🙁
 
Well my Golden Sockets were supposedly shipped yesterday, so crossing fingers and hoping for some good results soon. 🙂 If all else fails I have some Rear Window defogger kit materials locked and loaded..
 
I'm glad that you were able to get the Golden Sockets. They should make the project go smoothly. 😉 Keep us updated....
 
WEll so far so good. I am typing this message with one processor installed with one golden socket at 12.5X and 1.85V jumped on the L11 bridges.. 🙂 MP2000+ processor 😀 I am just running a temp setup with an old Alpha PEP66T doing the cooling... 46C

More to come.. 🙂
 
Glad things are going well so far John. 🙂 Wow.. Those Golden Sockets arrived quickly. I have been reading up at 2CPU.com, and noticed that you post there also. Small net world huh? 😉 Which radiator will you be using with your setup? Is it case contained or external? Anyhow, keep us posted on your results.

EDIT: I just noticed that you are air cooling to get things rolling. I was just wondering about your final watercooled config.
 
Hi Sonny, I may have to back off to 12X.. I had one spontaneous reboot(actually blue screen and dump) and it took a couple trys to get back up. I dont know if I should keep it here and try with water where she sits or just back off to be safe. The Temp monitor was only showing about 46C so Im thinking its more due to processor limitation than temp. The only question is am I getting proper temp reading with the Golden socket installed or is this thermal diode reading? Now Im hearing hard drive messing up so maybe its the hard drive giving me problems. It failed on me the other day so maybe its a problem with this old standby hard drive.. Ill have to check this out thoroughly.

My radiator is cube shaped and can be mounted on the back of the tower or elsewhere..
Yes, I visit 2cpu and AMDMB.com quite often.. 🙂

HDD is making all kinds of noise .. gonna try a different drive.
 
I put a new LVD cable on the HDD and ran check disk and defragged. It found bad clusters so this drive is going down .. I hate Quantum SCSI drives. My only other backup drive is full of data, so Im going to have to transfer that all to Jaz disks and install the other drive as primary till the project is finished. So. for now anyway still running at 2000+ Gonna download Sandra and see how it holds up to that.

EDIT.. Sisoft tests went off without a hitch.. still maintaining 46C with Tyan System Monitor.

Edit2.. I ran Sisoft burning wizard at 100 percent load for over an hour.. no hicups.. 🙂 Temps averaged 48C under full load. Hmm this Pep66 is doing much better than my original coolers. Im having problems fitting the large Swiftech blocks on this Tyan board. I may have to get the newer series blocks or just can the whole idea of water cooling..
 
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