New to PC, HELP!

[jackswallen]

1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.

Mostly for gaming. I play things like GW2 and CS:GO. Nothing next gen really but i would love to play at max settings for most games (if possible)

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
850-900 and i can maybe do up to 950. It all depends what you guys can really do for me

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.

Most likely USA

5. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.

Dont really prefer anything. Not to familiar with AMD and INT because i am new to PC. Whichever you think is best for me i will take.

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.

I dont have any current parts.

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.

Not to sure about this one. I am afraid i might mess up my CPU by doing this so if you think i should/shouldn't please let me know

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?

Will most likely be buying an ASUS 24 inch. If you have any monitors you recommend please let me know! i am very nooby to stuff like this

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
Note that it is usually not cost or time effective to choose your build more than a month before you actually plan to be using it.

I have no clue really. i am trying to get a base right now and it all depends on if my parents end up letting me order the parts. It's my own money but they think it is a waste :/.

X. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?

an OS would be needed but you can leave it out of the build because that 80 dollars could end up sacrificing something good.

Thanks in advance! -Jack

 

[OlyAR15]

Well, if you are going pre-built, there is no point in us providing a build since you would be limited by whatever company that you choose provides as options. So first thing is to choose which company you wish to go with, look at their options, then provide us a link to whatever computer you are considering. Then we can give you an opinion.

BTW, there is nothing wrong with pre-built computers as long as they are from a reputable builder. You are usually limited in the choice of components, and you may be able to build a computer yourself for a bit less money, but if you feel uncomfortable about building then prebuilt is a viable option.

 

[jackswallen]

Well, if you are going pre-built, there is no point in us providing a build since you would be limited by whatever company that you choose provides as options. So first thing is to choose which company you wish to go with, look at their options, then provide us a link to whatever computer you are considering. Then we can give you an opinion.

BTW, there is nothing wrong with pre-built computers as long as they are from a reputable builder. You are usually limited in the choice of components, and you may be able to build a computer yourself for a bit less money, but if you feel uncomfortable about building then prebuilt is a viable option.

NO I NEED A BUILD FROM YOU! sorry I didn't specify

 

[VirtualLarry]

Fill out the questions in the sticky (copy and paste them into this thread). Then we can proceed with a build.

 

[Cerb]

Hi. I am switching over from console gaming and I need a PC. I know that prebuilts are very bad

Not entirely. Just a bit more expensive, for a good one. Often-times, you can take a big vendor box and add a video card easily, and be set, as well.

but I am scared to build one myself. what if I mess up and ruin a part?

Be careful. Read Mechbgon's building guide (Google it). I don't think it's up to date on parts, but all the procedures are still the same.

what if it doesn't work when I turn it on and I freak out?

Then you'll freak out. It's rare, but it happens. Then calm down, and see if we can help.

what if I install the cpu wrong and I mess up the little prongs?

Hard to do, today. Put it in with the notches in the right place, and it will all fit fine.

can you guys give me a BEAST pc build for around that area? if it includes OS that would be awesome too! thanks in advance -jack

No, but you should be able to do alright for that money, especially without the need for high performance in the latest demanding games.

Like was said, check this subforum's stickies, and fill ther questionaire one out, either editing the OP, or as a new reply.

 

[jackswallen]

Not entirely. Just a bit more expensive, for a good one. Often-times, you can take a big vendor box and add a video card easily, and be set, as well.

Be careful. Read Mechbgon's building guide (Google it). I don't think it's up to date on parts, but all the procedures are still the same.

Then you'll freak out. It's rare, but it happens. Then calm down, and see if we can help.

Hard to do, today. Put it in with the notches in the right place, and it will all fit fine.

No, but you should be able to do alright for that money, especially without the need for high performance in the latest demanding games.

Like was said, check this subforum's stickies, and fill ther questionaire one out, either editing the OP, or as a new reply.

Just did!

 

[Ken g6]

Your budget is very similar to mfenn's midrange build. You could drop to a regular 290 and/ or a 128GB SSD to save some money.

 

[VirtualLarry]

1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.

Mostly for gaming. I play things like GW2 and CS:GO. Nothing next gen really but i would love to play at max settings for most games (if possible)

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
850-900 and i can maybe do up to 950. It all depends what you guys can really do for me

I'm not greatly familiar with particular PC games anymore, so I don't know if those games are CPU-heavy (MMOs often are), or GPU-heavy.

I would start with the newest build in the Mid-Range builders thread here:
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2192841

(copy start)
11/02/2014 update:
i5 4690K $240
ASRock Z97 Pro3 $90 AR
Pareema DDR3 1600 8GB $73
XFX R9 290X $320 AR
Crucial MX100 256GB $113
Seagate 7200RPM 1TB $55
ASUS DVD Burner $15 AP
Antec Neo ECO 620C $45 AR
Corsair 200R $35 AR
Total: $986 AR AP

- For multi-tasking and productivity applications, you might want to also upgrade to 16GB of RAM for $129 aP.
- There is an R9 280 3GB for $140 AR AP and an R9 280X 3GB for $240 AR AP if you want to spend less but still get good gaming performance. If you'd like performance equivalent to the main recommendation but don't mind spending more for lower power/heat output, the GTX 970 4GB is $350.
- If you intend to OC (the system is capable) grab an aftermarket HSF like the Zalman CNPS10X for $15 AR.
(copy end)

And consider trimming the GPU down from the R9 290X down to an R9 280 (there was one in the Hot Deals forum for $150 AR, not sure if that's still available).

Could also consider trimming the SSD down from a 256GB to a 128GB SSD, although 256GB is the sweet-spot as far as price and performance go nowadays in SSDs.

Edit: TigerDirect has a daily deal, for $49.99 FS after a $10 off promo code, for a 1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM HDD. Might want to grab that if you're going with a 1TB HDD.

Do you have a Microcenter nearby? (Within a half-hour's drive?)

 

[crashtech]

Leaving the SSD out puts the midrange build right into the OP's budget with no sacrifice to frame times. For better all-around performance the CPU could be dropped down to an i3-4150 and leave the SSD in, but this will have a negative impact on frame rate in some games.

 

[Yuriman]

@VirtualLarry, without overclocking, OP may be better off with an H97 board and a cheaper i5.

 

[crashtech]

A non-K, maybe, but still keep the speed and get a 4690. You are right about GW2 being a CPU hog. An i3 would definitely cause a performance hit in that, so my i3 recommendation is probably not the best way to go.

 

[Yuriman]

An i3 would be fine in Guild Wars as it only uses 2 threads, but in his budget, he can afford an i5.

 

[crashtech]

The info I saw at Tom's made it look like GW2 likes 4 cores.

 

[mfenn]

I'm not greatly familiar with particular PC games anymore, so I don't know if those games are CPU-heavy (MMOs often are), or GPU-heavy.

I would start with the newest build in the Mid-Range builders thread here:
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2192841

(copy start)
11/02/2014 update:
i5 4690K $240
ASRock Z97 Pro3 $90 AR
Pareema DDR3 1600 8GB $73
XFX R9 290X $320 AR
Crucial MX100 256GB $113
Seagate 7200RPM 1TB $55
ASUS DVD Burner $15 AP
Antec Neo ECO 620C $45 AR
Corsair 200R $35 AR
Total: $986 AR AP

- For multi-tasking and productivity applications, you might want to also upgrade to 16GB of RAM for $129 aP.
- There is an R9 280 3GB for $140 AR AP and an R9 280X 3GB for $240 AR AP if you want to spend less but still get good gaming performance. If you'd like performance equivalent to the main recommendation but don't mind spending more for lower power/heat output, the GTX 970 4GB is $350.
- If you intend to OC (the system is capable) grab an aftermarket HSF like the Zalman CNPS10X for $15 AR.
(copy end)

And consider trimming the GPU down from the R9 290X down to an R9 280 (there was one in the Hot Deals forum for $150 AR, not sure if that's still available).

Could also consider trimming the SSD down from a 256GB to a 128GB SSD, although 256GB is the sweet-spot as far as price and performance go nowadays in SSDs.

Edit: TigerDirect has a daily deal, for $49.99 FS after a $10 off promo code, for a 1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM HDD. Might want to grab that if you're going with a 1TB HDD.

Do you have a Microcenter nearby? (Within a half-hour's drive?)

:thumbsup: to this. The $150 R9 280 is still available, it's the alternative GPU I have listed in the second bullet.

Though this is assuming that the budget is for the PC itself. OP, do you need to include monitor, mouse, and keyboard into the $850-900?

 

[jackswallen]

:thumbsup: to this. The $150 R9 280 is still available, it's the alternative GPU I have listed in the second bullet.

Though this is assuming that the budget is for the PC itself. OP, do you need to include monitor, mouse, and keyboard into the $850-900?

before I edited the post, I had put I needed and OS but you can leave it out if you have to sacrifice something. Also, thank you so much to everyone who has left comments and have helped me out. I am extremely grateful.

 

[Ken g6]

Here's a $900AR build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: *Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: *ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: *Team Zeus Yellow 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.93 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: *PowerColor Radeon R9 280 3GB TurboDuo Video Card ($140.00 @ Newegg)
Case: *Antec GX500 ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: *Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: *Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($13.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: *Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: *Acer G246HLAbd 60Hz 24.0" Monitor ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $902.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-06 09:20 EST-0500

Before rebates it's about $1000, so maybe wait to get the SSD until some rebates come back. I picked a low-end Z mobo because it's only $10 more than H, and so that someday you could pick up a then-used K chip and overclock.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Not a big fan of rebates myself, but Ken G6's build looks great to me.

Edit: Except for perhaps that cheap Hitachi HDD on Amazon.com. I looked it up (as I was interested in a few for myself at that price), and the reviews weren't good. Some people reported getting drives dated 2009, well outside of mfg's warranty.

So if you don't want to gamble on getting a dodgy out-of-warranty, get a cheap Seagate 1TB 7200RPM HDD somewhere. They've been as low as $49.99 after promo code at TigerDirect lately.

Edit: WD Blue 1TB OEM at Newegg for $49.99 with 2-year warranty.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339

 

[jackswallen]

Here's a $900AR build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: *Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: *ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: *Team Zeus Yellow 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.93 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: *PowerColor Radeon R9 280 3GB TurboDuo Video Card ($140.00 @ Newegg)
Case: *Antec GX500 ATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: *Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: *Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($13.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: *Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: *Acer G246HLAbd 60Hz 24.0" Monitor ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $902.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-06 09:20 EST-0500

Before rebates it's about $1000, so maybe wait to get the SSD until some rebates come back. I picked a low-end Z mobo because it's only $10 more than H, and so that someday you could pick up a then-used K chip and overclock.

this build is actually really nice for the price range! I was just wondering if that graphics card will hold up in the long run. I get kind of scared around the gpu because everyone tells me to spend the most money on that and when I see it for 140 I think it isn't that good (noob instinct). Also, what exactly is the SSD? memory right? I'm just a tad confused. also, you can upgrade the graphics card if you'd like to replace the monitor. I might be able to get some help from my parents with parts like that. other than that thanks!

 

[Cerb]

GPUs lose their value quickly. The best GPU around is never a good value. But, while the GPU is losing value, you are making use of it. If you get low-end one, it won't lose its value as quickly, but mainly because it's close to the price floor that they are willing to sell any gaming video card for.

The best bang/buck has creeped upwards over the years, but you can usually find something quite good between $200 and $400.

The R9 280-290X are currently being discounted to (a) compete with the GTX 970 and 980, and (b) make room for the new cards, to come out in the not so distant future, because there is a lot of inventory. This is an occasional occurrence, and not likely to last long.

 

[Cerb]

Also, what exactly is the SSD? memory right?

Yes, replacing hard drives.

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/182?vs=736

It's hard to find comparisons to HDDs, because the difference is so striking. That's around the fastest SATA HDD out there, compared to a fairly slow SSD (probably around the speed of the MX100). The random read and write performance differences between them are night and day.

 

[mfenn]

Edit: Except for perhaps that cheap Hitachi HDD on Amazon.com. I looked it up (as I was interested in a few for myself at that price), and the reviews weren't good. Some people reported getting drives dated 2009, well outside of mfg's warranty.

That's not how manufacturer's warranties work for products which are sold as new. The clock starts ticking when you buy the product, not on the date it was built.

 

[jackswallen]

GPUs lose their value quickly. The best GPU around is never a good value. But, while the GPU is losing value, you are making use of it. If you get low-end one, it won't lose its value as quickly, but mainly because it's close to the price floor that they are willing to sell any gaming video card for.

The best bang/buck has creeped upwards over the years, but you can usually find something quite good between $200 and $400.

The R9 280-290X are currently being discounted to (a) compete with the GTX 970 and 980, and (b) make room for the new cards, to come out in the not so distant future, because there is a lot of inventory. This is an occasional occurrence, and not likely to last long.

so your saying the 280 wont last long? and when i want to upgrade my card, wont it not be compatible with the board? than wont i have to upgrade EVERYTHING?

 

[VirtualLarry]

That's not how manufacturer's warranties work for products which are sold as new. The clock starts ticking when you buy the product, not on the date it was built.

If you think HDDs with a mfg date of 2009 are legitimate new stock, then I've got a bridge I would like to sell you... "new".

 

[Cerb]

so your saying the 280 wont last long? and when i want to upgrade my card, wont it not be compatible with the board? than wont i have to upgrade EVERYTHING?

I'm saying the prices on the 280 to 290X cards are likely not to last long, as AMD has refreshes and new GPUs in the pipe. The specific timing, and depth of discount might be from the GTX 970/980 cards, but it's not going to last forever.

A new video card will be compatible with your motherboard, and if you keep your CPU for more than a couple years, you'll probably want to upgrade the video card once, along the way.

 

[jackswallen]

I'm saying the prices on the 280 to 290X cards are likely not to last long, as AMD has refreshes and new GPUs in the pipe. The specific timing, and depth of diccount might be from the GTX 970/980 cards, but it's not going to last forever.

A new video card will be compatible with your motherboard, and if you keep your CPU for more than a couple years, you'll probably want to upgrade the video card once, along the way.

ahhh I see. the build is perfect that I saw before but my problem now is assembling it. I have spent hours watching on how to install and I know how to do most things easily. my biggest problems? plugging in every wire/cable, installing the aftermarket cooler plate (don't know how to really do it), routing the cables itself and have good airflow and lastly the whole anti static thing. I'm supposed to wear a wrist thing but how does that help? I just wish there was a service where you can have the parts and someone does it for you, that would be the dream.