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New to me Mazda Miata, what should I look for?

Jeff7181

Lifer
I'm starting to think about buying a used Miata as a fun little car that doesn't get horrible gas mileage. Maybe even a summer only car.

Are there any issues I should be aware of when looking for a used one? Any undesirable years or configurations? Is a Mazdaspeed Miata worth the price premium over a regular Miata even if I'm willing to make some modifications myself?

At some point I'd probably want to do the V8 conversion. Any specific years or configurations that are easier to modify to fit a V8?
 
Something with a FMIC.

2226d1079820131-new-mazdaspeed-miata-turbo-speedmiata8.jpg


Go here when you get bored: http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept=68.
 
Wow 2 grand gets the Miata to 200hp to the wheel?

That's what the S2000 puts down but less torque and 400 lbs more to pull. Now I'm gonna look for these MSMs
 
Wow 2 grand gets the Miata to 200hp to the wheel?

That's what the S2000 puts down but less torque and 400 lbs more to pull. Now I'm gonna look for these MSMs

...and what does a used S2000 go for?

200hp at the wheels is like a 50-75% gain over stock, depending on the year.

That intercooler is hilarious, though. I would assume it was an oil cooler or something.
 
Modifying the MSM pretty much requires an aftermarket ECU. You will quickly experience why people ditch it otherwise due to the performance of the computer. IMHO the MSM tune was rushed and it shows.
 
Modifying the MSM pretty much requires an aftermarket ECU. You will quickly experience why people ditch it otherwise due to the performance of the computer. IMHO the MSM tune was rushed and it shows.

For a particular year or body style or universally?
 
yea i'd love a msm, haven't found a clean enough one by me yet or i'd snatch it up.

nice clean used s2k's are going to go for 20+ (i only want the 06+ since those respond well to hondata flashes the best)

used msm's i've found between 11-15k ish
 
Paging JCH13.

You rang?

...and what does a used S2000 go for?

200hp at the wheels is like a 50-75% gain over stock, depending on the year.

That intercooler is hilarious, though. I would assume it was an oil cooler or something.

It is an IC, and it is hilariously small for the MSM.

http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4536&parentid=0&stocknumber=22-35000

I'm starting to think about buying a used Miata as a fun little car that doesn't get horrible gas mileage. Maybe even a summer only car.

Are there any issues I should be aware of when looking for a used one? Any undesirable years or configurations? Is a Mazdaspeed Miata worth the price premium over a regular Miata even if I'm willing to make some modifications myself?

At some point I'd probably want to do the V8 conversion. Any specific years or configurations that are easier to modify to fit a V8?

Things to look for I cannot say better than the two used Miata articles: http://www.miata.net/garage/garagebuying.html

Some people will say "steer clear of 1990-early 1991 short-nose miatas" I say meh, the issue only causes failure if a timing belt job was botched. It's about a 1% failure rate.

For a V8 conversion you're good to go from a 1990-2005 Miata chassis. for a V8 I'd get something with a power steering rack. Find a trim level that you like, and buy that.

I like the 1990-1993 1.6L versions myself with no options and a de-powered rack. The engine is a little more rev-happy and I don't have to worry about any emissions issues or maintaining safety equipment (i.e. putting on a Momo steering wheel with no airbag).

NA is 1990-1997, NB is 1999-2005 (there was no 1998).

The Miata slowly added some weight over the years in the for of chassis bracing and options. NB suspension geometry is supposed to be a bit better in the front, but nothing earth-shattering.

The Mazdaspeed Miata isn't worth the premium IMO. A 1.6L w/ a FM turbo kit will be faster. Than a fully-bolted MSM.
 
Thanks for the input. Any mileage concerns? Like, if I don't want to get deep into the engine right at first, should I stay away from cars with over 80k or 150k or... any guidelines?

Also, any ideas how much power the stock short block can handle?
 
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Miles don't really mean too much.

I have had 4 Miatas (92 Spec-120K; 96-155K, 95-160K, 95, 175K)all high mileage and run great. One of them I got at 55K and drove it until it was totaled at 155k. That 100K consisted of 3 autocrosses monthly, very spirited driving, and daily bouncing off the rev limiter.

Just make sure you change out all of the fluids. (diff, tranny, coolant, oil)

I haven't really had many issues with any of them. The clutch slave cylinder likes to die when the weather fluctuates. It's a simple replacement though. You don't even have to jack the car up.

Common oil leaks are: Valve cover gasket, crank angle seal. Costs about $30 to fix and takes about an hour.

There is a great community at Miata.net. If there was ever a problem with your car, you will find the solution there.
 
Thanks for the input. Any mileage concerns? Like, if I don't want to get deep into the engine right at first, should I stay away from cars with over 80k or 150k or... any guidelines?

Also, any ideas how much power the stock short block can handle?

Mileage? Meh. I dropped in a used engine/transmission with over 200k on them and have been running 8-9psi through it for a bit over a year. That's enough to get me sideways with 225/45-15 RS3 tires...

1.6L shortblocks are good for around 230-250whp, but not certain 1.6L diffs. 1.8L short blocks are good for around 265whp. It's a little over these power levels that 5spd transmissions start exploding and you need to get into 6spd or custom transmissions.

So, it's very comfortable to more than double the stock HP on any NA/NB Miatas. FM turbo kits are basically the gold-standard for stock block Miatas.

I agree with TonyFreak215's assessment that mileage doesn't matter a whole lot if it's been well taken care of. My first Miata had 212k on it, every oil change came out crystal clear, got great mileage, and ran like a champ.

Edit: a complete timing belt and water pump job from FM costs about $200 in parts and took me 6-8 hours to do the first time. It's a bit of labor, but you replace every seal on the engine except for the rear main crank seal and one coolant fitting. You'll wind up changing the coolant too. It's a good "start from a known point" operation.
 
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What happens with diffs and transmissions?

I would figure that, like most cars with >factory power, as long as you aren't 'launching' it, the worst you'd see would be bearing wear on the trans. Probably output shaft before anything else.

Or is it less a shock thing, and more just that slow attrition leading to an eventual bearing failure of the 'catastrophic' variety?
 
http://louisville.craigslist.org/cto/3797545296.html

This is a MSM with matching hardtop and it also includes the flyin miata intercooler, and downpipe. To me I'd spend the extra grand for the intake/exhaust to get that 200 whp in a 2300-2400lb car. Get some new wheels and an ecu tune and call it a day.

However, I always yearn for the AP2 S2000. I've decided that the AP1 just isn't for me.
 
What happens with diffs and transmissions?

I would figure that, like most cars with >factory power, as long as you aren't 'launching' it, the worst you'd see would be bearing wear on the trans. Probably output shaft before anything else.

Or is it less a shock thing, and more just that slow attrition leading to an eventual bearing failure of the 'catastrophic' variety?

The 6-bolt 4.3 diffs just can't hold it all together from what I've read, but I don't know the failure mechanism. The 5spd transmission cases aren't stiff enough to keep the gears happy at very high power levels. Once one gear loses a tooth or cracks the whole shebang grenades.
 
my miata stuff is arriving next week:

hard dog hard core hard top roll bar
four wheel little big brake kit
FM stage 2.5 suspension package.

FUCK YES!
 
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