New project car: 1999 Ford Escort ZX2

[Kaido]

I honestly don't know what you're asking. ECM's never set DTC's 'because a part is broken.' They detect something that is considered a manfunction, which generally falls into one of two categories:

1) A circuit is broken. Basically, points A and B are not touching, even though they should be. This can be in regards to an input (sensor) or an output (usually a solenoid).
2) The ECM (or PCM or TCM) is receiving a signal from something, but it's not the signal that it wants or expects. This is pretty much all on the input side. This can be a signal that is totally out of range. Like, say, an ECT with a resistance that indicates the engine is currently running at 800* or something. Or it can be a good signal(s) that indicate a problem with another part. Like flagging misfires based on the input from the crank sensors, or setting an 'incorrect gear ratio' code based on the input and output shaft speeds of the trans.

Hopefully that kinda makes sense.

In this case, your code is for a low voltage from the rear O2. This could mean the ECM is seeing a voltage SLIGHTLY lower than it wants to see, which would likely be from a bad O2...or it could be seeing no voltage whatsoever. I can't remember if the circuit actually being open (failed continuity check) will generate a different code or not. P0136 is just 'low voltage.'

You should try and monitor the rear O2 voltage with your scan tool. Even though it will update really slowly, you'll be able to see if it's got any activity, or if it's just 'flat-lined' at 0v.

Either way, it's not indicative of a bad catalytic converter. I will correct myself and say that it COULD be an exhaust leak, though. Low voltage = lean = higher concentration of oxygen than it should be seeing. I had initially brainfarted and thought P0136 was indicating no continuity on the signal circuit instead of just low voltage.

But low voltage can also mean the O2 is just not able to generate a voltage in the proper range anymore.

No you got it, that's exactly what I was asking - whether that code was saying that the sensor itself was broken/malfunctioning, or that the thing the sensor was sensing was acting up (the oxygen). So it sounds like it could be a few things:

1. Bad sensor
2. Bad Cat
3. Exhaust leak

I have no experience working on cars, so all this stuff is very new to me and I appreciate the help! Got my Car Repair for Dummies book & my OBD-II scanner and I'm ready to rock & roll :biggrin:

 

[Kaido]

Bah - Valvoline won't do transmission fluids on cars with over 100,000 miles due to liability. They said take it to a transmission shop. Or I could go the DIY route:

http://www.feoa.net/threads/checking-changing-98-manual-tranny-fluid.74990/

And that's assuming that that is what is causing the shifting issue, and not faulty shift linkage or something else entirely.

Cars are fun :awe:

 

[Kaido]

Got one new tire on at the local uber-discount tire shop (so cheap they don't even have lifts - they use floor jacks :biggrin. $70 installed, whoohoo! Debating between upgrading to nice 15" rims with new tires or just getting 3 more of the cheap 14" tires and calling it done. I like these ones the most so far, although they might look pretty goofy:

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/d...99&pc=49238&counter=1&wd=15&rw=6.5&vid=011886

But the side profile looks nice:

http://i.imgur.com/eh4VbVr.png

 

[phucheneh]

LOL, they won't change the fluid on a manual trans? That line of thinking (don't touch something with high mileage) is for automatics.

The fluid is not your issue. And you can't 'flush' it, anyhow. You just drain it and fill it, and it's extremely simple to do.

Get the car in the air and have a friend move the shifter while you observe the linkage underneath it and at the transmission.

 

[Kaido]

LOL, they won't change the fluid on a manual trans? That line of thinking (don't touch something with high mileage) is for automatics.

The fluid is not your issue. And you can't 'flush' it, anyhow. You just drain it and fill it, and it's extremely simple to do.

Get the car in the air and have a friend move the shifter while you observe the linkage underneath it and at the transmission.

Yeah. Local transmission shop wants $100 just to look at it. So I think I'll just do the DIY route for transmission fluid & the shift linkage fix. It definitely seems to be mechanical, but it's probably lightyears overdue for fluids too.

 

[Kaido]

Very interesting side-view camera with embedded display: (VW XL1)

http://www.plugincars.com/sites/default/files/xl1-side-door-monitors-620.jpg

 

[Kaido]

Noticed an interesting trend for the A/C:

1. When the engine is cold (fresh start), I get no shake.

2. When it warms up (between C & H):

2a. I get no shake if the fan is off.
2b. If the fan is on, I get shake (visible vibration) in the shifter & steering wheel.
2c. If the A/C is on, I get mega-shake in the shifter & steering, and the engine "hiccups".

Hard to explain the hiccup with the A/C on. It's like the accelerator is pressed for a second and the engine jumps forward, then drops - every few seconds. It does better if I keep the RPM's high while driving (like 3000+) and jumps a lot more if I'm at say 2500 RPM. The car drives fine, it doesn't stall, it doesn't overheat, the RPM's are at normal when this happens - it's just annoying. This may be how it was designed (14-year-old 4-cylinder car) or it may just be because it's old, dunno. I drive with the windows down when I can because it kind of bugs me, but the A/C is cold enough to use when I need to, and it hasn't stalled or anything from having it on - just a lot of shake & minor jumpiness. It's not like the whole car pulls forward or anything, it's more of a feel in the car with the pedal & engine.

 

[NutBucket]

It sounds stupid but different fluids can definitely make a difference. This isn't to say that its the cause of your problem but it certainly couldn't hurt to use something better.

 

[Kaido]

It sounds stupid but different fluids can definitely make a difference. This isn't to say that its the cause of your problem but it certainly couldn't hurt to use something better.

Any fluids in particular? Here's my order of operations for July:

* Oil change
* New windshield wipers
* Interior detailing (professional)
* Exterior detailing (DIY polish & wax)
* Spark plugs (4 + wires)
* Shift linkage bearing (see if that fixes the sticky shifter issue)
* Quick struts (4)
* 3 new tires (already got 1 to fix the flat)
* 4-wheel alignment (after new tires & struts)
* Tighten emergency brake

I think I may add the transmission fluid to the DIY list. I'll probably have the timing belt done in August & get the brakes checked out when they do the alignment. Any other maintenance items I should be looking at?

 

[NutBucket]

Sorry, it was in regards to trans fluid. Some transmissions are just more sensitive than others. I tried running Redline in our Subarus and it was a disaster. It became hard to shift. Went back to OEM Subaru fluids and it was smooth as butter. Same as my old Honda actually. I used plain 5w-30 after I did clutch replacement and it sucked. Tried Synchromesh which worked OK but switching to OEM fluid made it work the way it should. Definitely something cheap and worth trying.

 

[NutBucket]

And you should try the timing belt yourself if you have a place to leave the car partially disassembled while working on it. Great learning experience.

 

[BUTCH1]

I had the previous gen Escort with the 1.9L engine, had the "valve seat drop" issue with it, what a mess, I wound up pulling the head to find a piston beat to crap so I had to replace that too, amazingly the crank and bearings survived the beating just fine and I drove her another 20K after the repair..

 

[Kaido]

28.8 MPG on the fillup today, dropped mostly due to A/C I think.

 

[BUTCH1]

28.8 MPG on the fillup today, dropped mostly due to A/C I think.

Yep the compressor hits the smaller engines harder IMO. Tell you what though, my '94 'scort had the coldest AC I've ever seen, felt like putting on the E-brake to the 88HP 1.9L engine though LOL, I used to turn it off going to an onramp..

 

[Kaido]

Yep the compressor hits the smaller engines harder IMO. Tell you what though, my '94 'scort had the coldest AC I've ever seen, felt like putting on the E-brake to the 88HP 1.9L engine though LOL, I used to turn it off going to an onramp..

Haha yeah, it's not too bad on this one, but on my wife's new 2013 Civic it's terrible, one of the worst I've driven. If we need to merge fast or pass quickly, we have to turn off the A/C. Pretty pathetic And it doesn't even get that cold...

 

[Kaido]

Whee, 150K officially!

http://telly.com/X7C3BG

:awe:

 

[Kaido]

Another oddball A/C issue - I thought the wind was blowing really hard when I was on the highway today, because the car kept pulling to the left & the right. I shut off the A/C, it stopped. Turned it back on - pulling. Well, it felt more like it was being pushed.

Weird.

 

[Kaido]

New record - 37.23 MPG with conservative driving! :awe:

 

[Kaido]

Rough day yesterday. Driving home and suddenly couldn't rev past 3000 RPM on the highway. Pulled into a parking lot to let it chill for a bit, then tried pulling out to a side road & it died - timing belt. Didn't snap, just stripped teeth. Towed it to a local shop; quoted me about $1150 for a new belt, valve cover gasket, and some other misc things needed to get it driving again. Going to check with a local mechanic to see if I can get that cut in half.

Bummer.

 

[Kaido]

I'll probably have the timing belt done in August & get the brakes checked out when they do the alignment. Any other maintenance items I should be looking at?

Well, looks like it got done a month early

Total installed cost was $400 :\ No garage or tools handy, so unfortunately having a shop do the job was the quickest route to get it up & running again. I'll do the rest of the stuff myself. Last big project of the month is detailing, got my polish & wax kit out for this weekend. I don't have time to paint it due to my work schedule, so this will be the next best thing.