New Home Network Question

[ch33zw1z]

Yes, but you shouldn't have any other active equipment on the line, ie, you should not plug it into a switch.

If the cabling is known to be good, you don't even need the toner--just plug up an ethernet device in the room and then keep patching until you get a link.

Oh yeah, agreed.

 

[Mloc33]

The toner finds the port on the patch panel for my room, but does not give me ethernet, but if I plug a patch cable from laptop into the switch, I get ethernet...even with a patch cable still in the port in the patch panel, I still have no ethernet in my room....

Here`s the only labels I can see for the patch panel...

I appreciate all your help and patience.....

 

[ch33zw1z]

Get pic for the top module model #...

the toner will only help identify what cables go where, it won't verify pinouts at the panel and room drops are good. you'll need a cable tester to test the infrastructure runs from panel to drop

use the toner to find another drop to test, keep track of which ones work and which ones don't. The ones that don't, start with a physical inspection of the drops to make sure the pinouts match the panel and are good.

 

[ch33zw1z]

http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/pdf/9085.pdf

Looks like the top module is a phone module for up to 8 phones.

i'm trying to find the instructions to make sure the ethernet modules are punched down in the correct order...

 

[SamirD]

The toner finds the port on the patch panel for my room, but does not give me ethernet, but if I plug a patch cable from laptop into the switch, I get ethernet...even with a patch cable still in the port in the patch panel, I still have no ethernet in my room....

Here`s the only labels I can see for the patch panel...

I appreciate all your help and patience.....

The above advice on checking the drops is dead-on as well as checking the punchdowns for correct order.

So it looks like a wiring issue now that you have tested a single port. One thing to do is to open up the port in the room and see if all 8 wires are punched down and in which order. There's two standards T568A and T568B and even if you have a mix of both, you should be okay as a T568A on one end and a T568B on the other end is actually a crossover cable:

How to Distinguish T568A and T568B of RJ45 Ethernet Cable Wiring?

How to Distinguish T568A and T568B of RJ45 Ethernet Cable Wiring? This article will tell the T568A and T568B standards of Ethernet cable jack wiring.

www.fiber-optic-equipment.com

But if your patch panels and ports in the rooms are not following either of these standards on either end, that would explain why it's not working.

 

[ch33zw1z]

@SamirD - yup. I had to go for a bit, the ICRDSDPA10 is discontinued, and I was having trouble finding which standard it follows. It's tough to tell, because you just punch them in and the integrated circuits map to the ports.

managed to find this link

ICC ICRDSDPA10 8 Port Cat5e Data Module for ICC Mini Distribution Center

The ICC ICRDSDPA10 8 Port Cat5e Data Module will support 8 data locations in a small office or residential data network installation!

www.cablingplus.com

So, assuming the cables are punch in correctly, as in the solid and striped pairs arent crossed, looks like the OP will want to make sure he uses 568A on the drop side

A couple other questions:

1. I know it sounds dumb, but after you located the drop in the patch panel, did you run a patch cable from the panel to the switch?

2. Have you already unplugged the Netgear device and move those drops to the other switch? And are they working?

 

[Mloc33]

Get pic for the top module model #...

the toner will only help identify what cables go where, it won't verify pinouts at the panel and room drops are good. you'll need a cable tester to test the infrastructure runs from panel to drop

use the toner to find another drop to test, keep track of which ones work and which ones don't. The ones that don't, start with a physical inspection of the drops to make sure the pinouts match the panel and are good.

This of the top module...

See if this makes any sense to you, I went around to every port in the house and tried to match them up..

 

[ch33zw1z]

Ok, so you used the toner function to trace out the patch panel drops to the rooms. That's a good start!

Move on to the 3 drop test pics. Are any of those 3 drops working? I kinda assume not based on the patch panel picture with the layout notes on it.

Here's the manual: https://www.elegiants.com/downfile.html?path=/elegiants/20171110/5a06681a4934c-ELEGIANT Bside FWT1 Product Manual.pdf

Below is the section to use, and it appears that you're doing it correctly. You have the receiver plugged into the corresponding drop at the other end of the run, using another patch cable, correct? It kinda looks like the lit up wire indicates it's "open" aka not punched down all the way.

For example, in picture 111555.jpg, the number "2" is lit up. Since it's laid out pin's 1 thru 8, I would automatically assume it's pin 2 that is open. In 568A, that would be the solid green cable..

BUT, the guide specifically says "open circuit: on the receiver, the corresponding line pair indicator will not turn on". We know there's 4 pairs, and only the number 2 is lit. Based on the guide, this may indicate pairs 1, 3, and 4 are OPEN.

As the tool is not from a known brand to me, I would suggest this:

To confirm you know how to use it properly (and for a sanity check, we all have to do it sometimes lol), I would just test a patch cable or 2 with the emitter/receiver without sending it thru the infrastructure. make sure you know what it should look like when it works 100% end to end.

After that, try again, if you get the same results, inspect a drop and ensure all the punch downs look ok. Once you're familiar with the tool, I would focus on one drop at a time, sanity check against known working cabling as needed.


edit: video of basic function

 

[MtnMan]

There will be a lot of cross talk with the sloppy termination where the cables are punched down. I wonder if you could ever achieve 1Gig connectivity.

 

[SamirD]

This of the top module...

See if this makes any sense to you, I went around to every port in the house and tried to match them up..

This helps tremendously! The top punch down block with an input and the kitchen is just for phone. I doubt it will work for ethernet at all.

The two punch down blocks below this one are for ethernet, but I don't think the ports in the rooms are punched down correctly. I think the patch panel should link at 100Mbit as we have some worse than that at my parents house--gigabit may be intermittent or not work correctly.

At this point I think it's just a matter of making sure the punching down at the panel and ports in the rooms is correct. The wire is there for sure.

 

[Mloc33]

There will be a lot of cross talk with the sloppy termination where the cables are punched down. I wonder if you could ever achieve 1Gig connectivity.

The best of all the ethernet speeds was around 90mb, I`m paying for 1gb and on wireless I get around 500-600ish on my phone...

 

[Mloc33]

At this point I think it's just a matter of making sure the punching down at the panel and ports in the rooms is correct. The wire is there for sure.

So I should just research what colored wire goes where on the patch panel and ethernet ports and once they are correct I`m good to go....

 

[SamirD]

The best of all the ethernet speeds was around 90mb, I`m paying for 1gb and on wireless I get around 500-600ish on my phone...

Yep, sounds like 100Mbps.

So I should just research what colored wire goes where on the patch panel and ethernet ports and once they are correct I`m good to go....

Yep, pretty much. You'll want to also read about correct termination techniques so you know how to fix some of the bad terminations in the patch panel. From the cursory glance that I can see, the unsheathed and untwisted sections are a bit too long.

 

[mxnerd]

Cat 6 cables (labled on cable casings from your pics) should let you run 1Gbps everywhere if they are terminated properly at the punch down panel & wall jacks.

 

[ch33zw1z]

Before the OP goes and starts repunching a bunch or drops at the panel, have we confirmed the cable is solid aka "riser" cable?

The panels in the box are legacy, if you're going to take it all apart and start from scratch, it may be a good idea to buy cat 6 panel(s) and keystones.

edit: found on the jacket "honeywell p/n 5092"

Honeywell 4-Pair 23 AWG CAT6 Plus Riser Cable (1000' Reel, White)

Buy Honeywell 4-Pair 23 AWG CAT6 Plus Riser Cable (1000' Reel, White) featuring 500 MHz Transmission Speed, UTP for Greater Flexibility, 300V Voltage Rating, PVC Jacket with Ripcord, UL Rated. Review Honeywell null

www.bhphotovideo.com

it's riser cable. punch down, no crimping!

edit: new patch panel?

Amazon.com: Cable Matters UL Listed 12-Port Cat6, Cat 6 Vertical Mini Patch Panel with 89D Bracket: Computers & Accessories

Buy Cable Matters UL Listed 12-Port Cat6, Cat 6 Vertical Mini Patch Panel with 89D Bracket: Cables & Interconnects - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I kinda like this one better though (*Note, the reviews says to be careful about which keystones you select):

Amazon.com: ICC Blank Wall Mount Patch Panel with 8 Ports and Zero-U for EZ and HD Style (IC107BP8VB): Gateway

Buy ICC Blank Wall Mount Patch Panel with 8 Ports and Zero-U for EZ and HD Style (IC107BP8VB): Distribution Panels - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

You can even get crazy and get your coax in the bottom laid out same way

Amazon.com: Cable Matters 5 Pack RG6 Keystone Jack Insert, Coaxial Keystone Jack Insert: Home Audio & Theater

Buy Cable Matters 5 Pack RG6 Keystone Jack Insert, Coaxial Keystone Jack Insert: Connectors & Adapters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[SamirD]

I wouldn't bother with replacing the panels at first, just re-punching what is necessary, which I suspect will be mainly the port side vs panel side. This is the same issue at my parent's house with the ports that are flaky or not working. It really sucks that there are so many 'expert installers' out there that still claim to be able to wire ethernet and instead leave a mess like this behind. The internet is full of stories that end just like this one.

 

[Mloc33]

I wouldn't bother with replacing the panels at first, just re-punching what is necessary, which I suspect will be mainly the port side vs panel side. This is the same issue at my parent's house with the ports that are flaky or not working. It really sucks that there are so many 'expert installers' out there that still claim to be able to wire ethernet and instead leave a mess like this behind. The internet is full of stories that end just like this one.

That sounds more like something I might tackle, removing the panel and doing new wires would be too much, I'd be happy if I could get all the ethernet ports working in all the rooms. I'm still on the fence at the speeds I got with the live ethernet ports...

So I need to get me a punch down tool.. Any brand in particular, or will any kind do the job?

 

[ch33zw1z]

That sounds more like something I might tackle, removing the panel and doing new wires would be too much, I'd be happy if I could get all the ethernet ports working in all the rooms. I'm still on the fence at the speeds I got with the live ethernet ports...

So I need to get me a punch down tool.. Any brand in particular, or will any kind do the job?

most popular name brand will do fine, needs to be 110. Inspect the keystones in the drops first, you don't always need a punch down tool, as "tool less" are popular.

 

[SamirD]

That sounds more like something I might tackle, removing the panel and doing new wires would be too much, I'd be happy if I could get all the ethernet ports working in all the rooms. I'm still on the fence at the speeds I got with the live ethernet ports...

So I need to get me a punch down tool.. Any brand in particular, or will any kind do the job?

The wires are good from what I can tell, and re-punching isn't that hard a job at all. In fact, it's more precision work since you're basically just fixing someone's existing work. You probably won't have to re-punch everything, except maybe on the port side.

most popular name brand will do fine, needs to be 110. Inspect the keystones in the drops first, you don't always need a punch down tool, as "tool less" are popular.

What he said.

 

[Mloc33]

You probably won't have to re-punch everything, except maybe on the port side.

The port side being the ethernet ports in each room?

 

[SamirD]

The port side being the ethernet ports in each room?

Yep that's correct. The patch panels should be okay if the wiring coding is correct for ethernet as they look punched decently well except for those few that have too much untwisted length.

 

[Mloc33]

Looks like a difficult task, you can check it asking the previous guy what he did in his house. You need time to find out what happens. This is

That's an understatement, lol. I've ordered a punch down tool, so waiting on that...

 

[SamirD]

Looks like a difficult task, you can check it asking the previous guy what he did in his house. You need time to find out what happens. This is

It's actually pretty dead simple. I did this in my apartment complex after the builders just punched it down for telephone. I even had to replace the patch panel and I was done in just a few hours (having never done anything like it before).

 

[ch33zw1z]

That's an understatement, lol. I've ordered a punch down tool, so waiting on that...

No worries, it just takes practice. It may be slow at first, but you'll get the hang of it. You can start inspecting the drops while you wait for the tool. Pick one drop you're having problems with a take a look at it.

 

[Mloc33]

No worries, it just takes practice. It may be slow at first, but you'll get the hang of it. You can start inspecting the drops while you wait for the tool. Pick one drop you're having problems with a take a look at it.

I was thinking of looking at the known working ports, then compare their wiring with the ones that are not working?

It's odd that in some rooms here, of the two ports in the rooms, only one would be "live", why would they do a half arsed job...