New Desktop System - what do you think?

[Justus_ch]

Hi there,
I plan to replace my old desktop system. It will be used for home office, no gaming, no video editing and stuff... I just read through the Sandy Bridge Buyer’s Guide and followed more or less the Budget Core i3-2100 System. Here is what I ended up with:

• Lian Li PC-A04B Micro-ATX Tower - black
• Asus P8H67-M PRO (B3), Intel H67 B3, LGA1155, CFX, mATX
• OCZ SSD Vertex 3 120GB, SATA-3, 2.5 Zoll
• Corsair CMX4GX3M2A1600C7, 2x2 GB, DDR3-1600, CL7@1.65V
• Intel Core i3 2105 BOX, 3.1GHz, LGA 1155, 2C/4T
• Seasonic X-400 Gold Modular Fanless - 400 Watt
• Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64bit, OEM, SP1
• LG GH22NS, 22x DVD±R Brenner, SATA, schwarz

Further comments and questions:

• I do not need the overclocking functionality, therefore I have choosen the H67 chipset.
• Especially with the memory I'm quite uncertain: does the choosen 2x2 GB, DDR3-1600 / PC3-12800, 7-8-7-20@1.65V, unbuffered, 240-pin DIMMs fit well? Or chould I get other ones? Is CL7 better than CL9?
• Is it worth to go with the Vertex 3 with SATA-3 than the 50$ cheaper Vertex 2 with SATA-II?
• Is the 400 Watt PSU sufficient? I guess so since I use no dedicated graphic card... By the way thats the reason for the i3 2105 chip with HD3000.

Last but not least: what about the form factor? are there any disadvantages from choosing the smaller micro-ATX than normal ATX? (Why are these smaller boards cheaper?? I expected them to be more expensive while smaller....)

Thats it. Any advice/critique/hint is highly appreciated!! Thanks in advance.

 

[Wizlem]

You should get standard 1333 memory with 1.5v for sandy bridge. It will save you 25 bucks, be easier on your chip, and have no noticable difference in almost everything but synthetic benchmarks.

I'd say you won't notice the difference between the Vertex 2 and Vertex 3. Personally I use an intel ssd and its plenty fast for me and supposedly quite a bit slower than sandforce based drives.

Your computer may pull a total of 100 watts maxed out. Not gonna max it out with office software.

Smaller boards are cheaper because PCB's make up a good amount of the cost of making the board.

Everything else I say really only has to do with cost for your level of performance. If you are ok with spending $1000 for the somewhat trivial tasks you sound like you are going to use the computer for then simply ignore this part. You could certainly shave quite a few bucks off your build by switching to some less expensive parts(e.g. Power supply and case are combined $250). Aside from being high end and quiet do little more for you than a good quality $40 supply and $50 case. You would probably notice little difference switching to a smaller SSD and if you need more space use an HDD for storage.

 

[fffblackmage]

Asus P8H67-M PRO (B3), Intel H67 B3, LGA1155, CFX, mATX

Save yourself a few bucks and get the non-Pro version.

Corsair CMX4GX3M2A1600C7, 2x2 GB, DDR3-1600, CL7@1.65V
Especially with the memory I'm quite uncertain: does the choosen 2x2 GB, DDR3-1600 / PC3-12800, 7-8-7-20@1.65V, unbuffered, 240-pin DIMMs fit well? Or chould I get other ones? Is CL7 better than CL9?

Get something that runs on 1.5V.

DDR3-1333 or DDR3-1600 will work, but just don't pay more than you have to, since the difference in performance between the two is very minimal outside of artificial memory benchmarks.

CL7 is "better," but it doesn't make enough difference to pay more than a $1 (if even that) over CL9.

Seasonic X-400 Gold Modular Fanless - 400 Watt

Good, but expensive choice. Most quality power supplies are decently quiet, such that you shouldn't have to pay so much more for a fanless PSU.

Cheap, quiet, and effective:
$45 ($35 AR) - CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 V2

Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64bit, OEM, SP1

Unless you really need Pro, just get Home Premium instead. Unless you already have it?

Is it worth to go with the Vertex 3 with SATA-3 than the 50$ cheaper Vertex 2 with SATA-II?

I don't think you'll notice the difference between the two either. Personally, I feel like it would be difficult to justify paying $50 more for the Vertex 3.

Is the 400 Watt PSU sufficient? I guess so since I use no dedicated graphic card... By the way thats the reason for the i3 2105 chip with HD3000.

More than sufficient.

Last but not least: what about the form factor? are there any disadvantages from choosing the smaller micro-ATX than normal ATX? (Why are these smaller boards cheaper?? I expected them to be more expensive while smaller....)

mATX usually has less features and less components (less space for them). Some only have 2 memory slots instead of 4, and they have less expansion options since they have fewer PCI/PCIe slots.

Thats it. Any advice/critique/hint is highly appreciated!! Thanks in advance.

No problem.

 

[Davidh373]

You should get standard 1333 memory with 1.5v for sandy bridge. It will save you 25 bucks, be easier on your chip, and have no noticable difference in almost everything but synthetic benchmarks.

:thumbsup:

1.65V is a no-no. If you REALLY want to you can find up to 1866Mhz at 1.5V, but they really are a waste of money. Just get GSkill value 1333Mhz and you'll be set.

Save yourself a few bucks and get the non-Pro version.

:thumbsup:

What is the use in spending $60 more for another PCI-E slot that will never be used? Believe me, CFX is not a good reason unless you are doing that RIGHT NOW, and you aren't even getting one card now...

Unless you really need Pro, just get Home Premium instead. Unless you already have it?

:thumbsup:

I have a machine running Pro and 3 running Home Premium. I have yet to notice a difference.

 

[Justus_ch]

Hi all. Thanks for all the very usefull responses!!

It sounds reasonable that there will not be that much difference from SATA-II to SATA-3. Then I can change to the olter SSD. My local supplier has to different versions available:

OCZ SSD Vertex 2 Extended Cap. 120GB, SATA-II, 2.5 Zoll
OCZ SSD Vertex 2 120GB, SATA-II, 3.5 Zoll, MLC

Is there any difference? they have the same price.... aahh I see, the size. but I guess they all come with a frame to put it into a 3.5 case...?

If I go for a SATA-II disk than I can even reduce to H61 chip set right? Apart from USB3 there is no other drawback right? Actually I see two options here:

Intel DH61CRB3, Intel H61 B3, LGA1155, mATX
Asus P8H61-M (B3), Intel H61, LGA1155, mATX

Any suggestions?

Since the GSkill's are not ready to deliver at my supplier I would go for these here: Corsair TW3X4G1333C9A, 2x2GB, DDR3-1333, CL9@1.5V
Thats ok, right?

The PSU I've chosen because of the energy efficiency (gold), but maybe the labelling is just good marketing?? I do not care much about the fan.

Thank you guys alot for your excellent support!

 

[mfenn]

Hi all. Thanks for all the very usefull responses!!

It sounds reasonable that there will not be that much difference from SATA-II to SATA-3. Then I can change to the olter SSD. My local supplier has to different versions available:

OCZ SSD Vertex 2 Extended Cap. 120GB, SATA-II, 2.5 Zoll
OCZ SSD Vertex 2 120GB, SATA-II, 3.5 Zoll, MLC

Is there any difference? they have the same price.... aahh I see, the size. but I guess they all come with a frame to put it into a 3.5 case...?

Yeah, the only difference is the form factor. I'd get the 2.5" version and use the included adapter. You never know when you might want to stick the drive into something smaller.

If I go for a SATA-II disk than I can even reduce to H61 chip set right? Apart from USB3 there is no other drawback right? Actually I see two options here:


Intel DH61CRB3, Intel H61 B3, LGA1155, mATX
Asus P8H61-M (B3), Intel H61, LGA1155, mATX

Any suggestions?

Yeah, you can do H61 if you are OK with the lack of USB3.0 I'd probably get the Intel board because they're rock solid and you're not overclocking.

Since the GSkill's are not ready to deliver at my supplier I would go for these here: Corsair TW3X4G1333C9A, 2x2GB, DDR3-1333, CL9@1.5V
Thats ok, right?

Looks good to me.

The PSU I've chosen because of the energy efficiency (gold), but maybe the labelling is just good marketing?? I do not care much about the fan.

The X-400 is a good PSU and very efficient. However, it costs twice to three times as much as a bronze efficiency unit and is only about 5% more efficient. The power savings will never make up for the increased purchase price. Your system will probably draw something like 35W at idle and 80W maxed out, so even a 400W PSU is way overkill. A PSU like the Seasonic SS-350ET will serve you well.

Thank you guys alot for your excellent support!

Glad to help.

 

[Davidh373]

The X-400 is a good PSU and very efficient. However, it costs twice to three times as much as a bronze efficiency unit and is only about 5% more efficient. The power savings will never make up for the increased purchase price. Your system will probably draw something like 35W at idle and 80W maxed out, so even a 400W PSU is way overkill. A PSU like the Seasonic SS-350ET will serve you well.

It really depends on WHY the user has a reason to enjoy energy efficiency. If he's doing it for the environment, it might be worth it to him.