I'm wondering what would be a reasonable voltage to see if the cells are top notch, under 100ohm load. I figure to at least test one of the cells tomorrow using such a resistor, that I intend to buy in the morning. If I don't like the result, I'll just send them back. But I'd like to know what reading would indicate that the batteries are AOK.https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...-circuit-voltage-is-considered-quot-dead-quot
Probably much ado about nothing.
I used to have a meter something like that. Went through my tool room the other day and couldn't find it. Have no idea how well it would have worked.I like the Panasonic ones.
You can get a cheap tester like this one:
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I'm sure it's just a simple, shitty movement with a series resistor so the 3V cells don't peg it. "Load" is probably 20k ohm or some high value not enough to cause drop so essentially it's an open terminal voltage tester. But I could be wrong, and as cheap as it is even with shipping, it would be easy to add a load resistor with a switch to see how much it drops under load. Compare that to a legit cell.
So, Amazon? What sources would you trust?Problem with batteries these days is you really can't trust anyone aside from known legit sources! So many fakes out there it's not funny.
Now, let me get this straight. You're not suggesting that I can use rechargable cells instead of CR2032 are you?OMG no! Amazon is horrible for stuff like that.
I don't buy that many primaries (non rechargeable) cells but li-ion (eg 18650) places like Lithium Ion Wholesale are my go tos.
I use Mouser and DigiKey for parts like capacitors, they may sell them. Of course it's going to be more expensive but you get what you pay for.
Not that I would completely discredit those sources, but there's so much crap going on with Amazon sellers, proxy reviewing, etc. Utterly ridiculous.
Now, let me get this straight. You're not suggesting that I can use rechargable cells instead of CR2032 are you?
You're misunderstanding the problem with Amazon. Yes, review shilling is a problem but you can either read the reviews carefully or use a 3rd party site that purports to analyze the reviews algorithmically (reviewmeta.com or fakespot.com). This helps you decide whether a product is worth buying.The reviews I'm seeing at Amazon are useless. Nobody can attest to the capacity of the cells. A few anecdotal references to long lasting, nothing convincing. I can't understand why most people bother reviewing when they have nothing to add to the discussion.
TBH, I'm leaning toward the cells that aren't known US brands, i.e. not Duracell, not Panasonic. I mean, who would bother to make a knock off for a brand that isn't recognizable? However, maybe those brands ARE recognizable elsewhere, i.e. in Asia where they are made, and surely there's a big market in Asia for them. Well, I'm going to test the cells I have before deciding to return them. Not sure how confident I'll be just seeing that the voltage doesn't drop much with a 100ohm load.
Those Panasonic at Digikey are cheap enough but the shipping is expensive, i.e. over $8 for 10 cells.
Although the listing said 4 year expiry date, as I said above in this thread, the cells' cardboard sleeve said PD 01/19 ED 2029. Still, it's an open question if the merchandise really is Panasonic in origin or is a knock off. TBH, I would have suspected nothing, wouldn't have given it a thought (I was that naive) if the open circuit voltage wasn't 3.20v with my Fluke 15B+ multimeter.I over-analyze my prospective purchases, but the OP appears to have spent hours to determine whether he was ripped off for $4 on TEN button cells! I get that it's a matter of principle, but the eBay seller has very high feedback marks and even the product itself is well-rated. I suspect those cells were fine.
The only thing that's a bit dodgy is that they expire in 4 years (despite 10 year shelf life), which means these are "overstock" items that had been sitting around somewhere for a while.
You can just walk into Walmart and easily buy CR2032 (could be either Duracell or Energizer branded) and at least you'll know they aren't counterfeit. They'll also cost a lot more than 35 cents each. Thanks Fir, we did learn a lot in this thread!
As for something like ReviewMeta, sometimes I don't have the patience to read a bunch of customer reviews on Amazon (esp. for cheap products). Often I just want to know at a glance if a product is being shilled or not.
This. I mean, don't get me wrong, the whole "quest to find PERFECT CR2032 cells" is amusing, in a sort of short-bus way, but really? That much time on your hands? And I thought I over-analyzed some things.but the OP appears to have spent hours to determine whether he was ripped off for $4 on TEN button cells!
It didn't start out as any kind of quest to find the perfect CR2032 cells. I just wanted to know if 3.20v open circuit tested new "Panasonic" CR2032 cells were gonna crap out on me way before they should. I suspected just that. This thread is an education. Honest, I knew next to nothing about the cells.This. I mean, don't get me wrong, the whole "quest to find PERFECT CR2032 cells" is amusing, in a sort of short-bus way, but really? That much time on your hands? And I thought I over-analyzed some things.
Edit: Then again, most of my threads are short-bus-worthy too, I suppose.
*snip*
The term short-bus is lost on me. Is that a reference to the movie? (I haven't seen it.)
Gotta admit I sometimes feel like I'm at the back of the short-bus.Since society is disgusted by people with disabilities they were often shipped off on their own. Since there are fewer of them, they often rode on smaller "short buses". Thus saying somebody rides the short bus is basically saying they're "retarded", which society also equates to "utterly stupid/incompetent".
I have a ~1.5 quart covered can in the refrigerator where I store all my cell type batteries... LR44, CR2016, CR2032, etc. I figure (probably right) that they hold a charge longer refrigerated. Also, of course, I know where they all are. A few I store in drawers, but most in that can. I also have some C and AAA alkalines in the fridge, Duracells I get at Costco. Mostly I use Eneloops for AA and AAA, which, of course, don't benefit from cooler storage (AFAIK). I have many Eneloops!Glad you got batteries that you like. Here's my testing protocol when I get new batteries. I install them, and if the thing that didn't work, now does, Good Batteries! If it doesn't work, I go hmm... and troubleshoot. Usually turns out it wasn't a battery issue in the first place. Some batteries last longer than others. If I gave it much thought, I'd be losing money. Use them up, and buy more when needed.