New computer won't boot: PSU Problem?

Loafers

Junior Member
May 7, 2012
16
0
0
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155
Motherboard: ASRock B75M-DGS LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM
Graphics Card: SPARKLE 700010 GeForce 210 1GB 64-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card
Power Supply #1: Seasonic SS-460FL Active PFC F3, 460W Fanless ATX12V Fanless 80Plus PLATINUM Certified, Modular Power Supply
Power Supply #2: OCZ Fatal1ty 550W Modular Gaming Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandybridge Core i3 i5 i7 and AMD Phenom
Power Supply #3: Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
I just assembled my new computer and it won't boot. Luckily I have 3 power supplies to isolate the problem. Here are the results:

Power Supply #1: I press power button, absolutely nothing happens.
Power Supply #2: I press power button, it briefly has power for a second (the fans move) then it just dies.
Power Supply #3: I press power button, and it briefly has power then loses power, then goes back to full power. The second and subsequent boots have no problems whatsoever. Everything is running smoothly.

Power Supply #2 works fine on my older computer fine. I haven't tested Power Supply #1 on older computer yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if it works.

So then why don't they work on the new rig? Surely it couldn't be that it requires too much power?

Any advice, help, or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Last edited:

mikeymikec

Lifer
May 19, 2011
18,159
10,523
136
Is this a new build or has it worked before? If the latter, has anything been changed recently, or has anything unusual happened?
 

mikeymikec

Lifer
May 19, 2011
18,159
10,523
136
Try taking out the graphics card then try it with all three PSUs. With a system speaker connected you should get the beep sequence for no graphics detected (or does this board have onboard graphics, if so connect the monitor to that instead and see whether it boots).

The normal beep sequence for no graphics is one longer beep then two or three short rapid beeps. It may also be worth trying each PSU twice or three times to make sure you get consistent results.

Do you have a different graphics card to test with?

PS - I'm not saying it's the graphics card, but sometimes you have to definitely eliminate the other possibilities first.
 

Wreckdumb

Member
Mar 17, 2013
28
0
0
try replacing the CMOS battery. i recently bought a brand new board with a dead battery already installed. after replacing it booted right up. they are $5.00 at any walgreens type store.

Do you have a different graphics card to test with?
try removing the graphics card completly and useing the build in GPU in the processor.
 

Loafers

Junior Member
May 7, 2012
16
0
0
Try taking out the graphics card then try it with all three PSUs. With a system speaker connected you should get the beep sequence for no graphics detected (or does this board have onboard graphics, if so connect the monitor to that instead and see whether it boots).

The normal beep sequence for no graphics is one longer beep then two or three short rapid beeps. It may also be worth trying each PSU twice or three times to make sure you get consistent results.

Do you have a different graphics card to test with?

PS - I'm not saying it's the graphics card, but sometimes you have to definitely eliminate the other possibilities first.
Yes I do have another video card to test though it maybe difficult to get it to fit since the mobo is small and the cpu heatsink is rather massive. I shall try your suggestion when I get the chance tyvm!

try replacing the CMOS battery. i recently bought a brand new board with a dead battery already installed. after replacing it booted right up. they are $5.00 at any walgreens type store.

try removing the graphics card completly and useing the build in GPU in the processor.
ty for the suggestion. i shall try this as well.
 
Last edited:

Loafers

Junior Member
May 7, 2012
16
0
0
Ok so I removed the video card and tried all three power supplies. The results are identical: Power Supply #1 does nothing, Power Supply #2 briefly turns on before dying, and Power Supply #3 has no problems whatsoever and the computer runs smoothly.

While testing all three, I did not hear any beeps at all. I'm not even sure if my microatx ASROCK motherboard has a chirp to begin with.

I did not have time to use my other video card/cpu gpu, but I am hard pressed to believe it would work seeing how it can't even run without one.

I guess I'll try changing the CMOS battery once I acquire one even though it runs fine with power supply #3 :/

This whole ordeal is very puzzling. if the highest Watt PSU is the only one working, it would be safe to assume the components require a lot of power, but aside from my cpu, everything is extremely low end. I have 1 big case fan and 1 fan for cpu. I even disconnected the big case fan to see if they consumed too much power, but that didn't work either.

I shall try to do the other tests tomorrow, but assuming they don't work, what other tests could I do :(?
 

MeldarthX

Golden Member
May 8, 2010
1,026
0
76
Ok so you know its not a short as it runs with PSU number 3.....

How old are the other two psu? also are you using the same kettle cable on all three? aka power cable?

Nothing is overclocked......first one I do think might just be a little low to run it; that's why its not turning on at all..

Second PSU - sounds also like its running into power wall when trying to run things - Though it techinally should be fine to run the system.....

3rd runs everything fine........
 

Loafers

Junior Member
May 7, 2012
16
0
0
How old are the other two psu? also are you using the same kettle cable on all three? aka power cable?
Power Supply #1 is brand new.
Power Supply #2 is ~2-3 years old.
Power Supply #3 is ~1 year old but was left on the shelf.

I tried using a different power cable but that didn't help.

Nothing is overclocked......first one I do think might just be a little low to run it; that's why its not turning on at all..
My my very first computer had an i7 + gtx 460gtx + hard drive and ran fine with 550W. This new computer is just an i7 + passive cooling low end graphics card + ssd and can't even boot with 550W. This makes no sense :twisted:

I guess I'll have to return everything after all options have been exausted :(
 

Steltek

Diamond Member
Mar 29, 2001
3,072
774
136
Do you get any responses or beep codes if you try to boot it without the memory modules installed?
 

MeldarthX

Golden Member
May 8, 2010
1,026
0
76
Why return if it runs on the last PSU that's basically new but just sitting on a shelf?

460 - not been tested in another system - literally could be bad.......its been known to happen.

PSU number 2 - runs old system but; doesn't have enough juice to run the new system - *reason......2-3 years old - its power effecticy has dropped - from continous use to the point it can't power the new system. Old OCZ PSUs that are not cert 80+ or more were not greatly built.

PSU number 3 - Antect 620w - basically brand new PSU that's works - use it......

Test PSU 1 in other system - if works you should still be able to send back stating the system you're using on it won't boot.....They have to test it in a similar system usually it won't boot and you'll get the refund or store credit.....
 

Loafers

Junior Member
May 7, 2012
16
0
0
Why return if it runs on the last PSU that's basically new but just sitting on a shelf?
Because it's not modular :(

460 - not been tested in another system - literally could be bad.......its been known to happen.
I did an RMA and got a replacement. Same problem: won't turn on nor boot.

PSU number 2 - runs old system but; doesn't have enough juice to run the new system - *reason......2-3 years old - its power effecticy has dropped - from continous use to the point it can't power the new system. Old OCZ PSUs that are not cert 80+ or more were not greatly built.
I am very satisfied with this explanation.

PSU number 3 - Antect 620w - basically brand new PSU that's works - use it......
My case is micro-atx and I was going for a clutterfree interior. PSU #3 is like an giant squid in there XD

Test PSU 1 in other system - if works you should still be able to send back stating the system you're using on it won't boot.....They have to test it in a similar system usually it won't boot and you'll get the refund or store credit.....
Well, the replacement is also a dud. The chances of this happening twice are virtually nill. Could it be the cables themselves? Would it be possible to test them (Note: I don't have spare cables)?
 
Last edited:

Ketchup

Elite Member
Sep 1, 2002
14,546
238
106
Upon first overlooking this thread, it sounds like a possible grounding issue. I would be half-tempted to leave the OCZ out of the equation. They use a very cheap build for most of the units they slap their name on (they don't make their own), plus it's the oldest one you have.

Once you get to where you are sure it is not a grounding issue, I would clear the CMOS and make sure the BIOS settings are correct before proceeding further. My Gigabyte does the same thing if I change the clock or if it automatically changes a setting it didn't like.
 

styrafoam

Platinum Member
Jun 18, 2002
2,684
0
0
Assuming that your power supplies are all in working order they should all be more than enough to power the system. The fact that all three behave similarly says the problem is somewhere else to me.

When you can't boot on a new rig after clearing the cmos always try rotating combinations of single sticks of ram in different slots and see if you can make any progress. My money is on a bad stick of ram, or a bad slot on the motherboard.
 

Loafers

Junior Member
May 7, 2012
16
0
0
RMA sent me a new PSU and MB PSU Cable, I got a new motherboard, and it still doesn't boot.

RAM: I removed the RAM and tested it with PSU #3. It ran fine, but didn't make any beeping sounds. PSU #1 didn't boot with or without the RAM.

CMOS: I cleared it by moving the cap thingy from 1_2 to 2_3 then back. Upon boot, it showed stuff was reset so I guess I did it right. Tried to boot again with PSU #1 but no luck.

Grounding Issue: I have never heard of this before so I read up on this. I noted that it says to check the IO backplate, which I did not even bother to install in the first place, but my other computer runs fine without one so this is probably a non-factor. I should also mention I recently moved to a new place which exhibits the same problems I previously had. A surge protector outlet is used so I don't think it's the wall outlet either.

Pin Header: When I originally did all of this testing, I only had the power switch header plugged in. I noticed there were GND lpins, but after googling what exactly that was, I figured it might be important to plug them all in so I did, but that didn't help either.

Another thing to note: Each time I reinstall PSU #3 I notice that it boots (psu fan moves full speed), then kinda dies a little bit (fan dies down), then goes back to full life. Subsequent boots never have the hiccups again. This problem only happens when I completely remove and reinstall the PSU. Could this be indicative of something?

Any ideas or suggestions? I'm just about ready to raise the white flag :(
 

Ketchup

Elite Member
Sep 1, 2002
14,546
238
106
The main thing I was referring to is the screws on the motherboard, to the case. I have also run without the backplate in the past without issue.
 

Steltek

Diamond Member
Mar 29, 2001
3,072
774
136
You can also have grounding issues related to the standoffs and screws mounting the motherboard to the case, which is what ketchup79 was referring to.

To test it, pull the motherboard out of the case and place it on a non-conductive surface (i.e. cardboard, or an anti-static bag). Plug in the power supply cables, the video card, and a single memory module. Hook up the case speaker for beep codes in case of a problem. Use a screwdriver to short the power switch headers, and see if the system boots normally. If it boots normally and you can repeat the normal boot several times, you have a grounding problem.
 
Last edited:

Loafers

Junior Member
May 7, 2012
16
0
0
Ok, it looks like I do have a grounding issue.

I removed everything out of the case and turned it on. Nothing happened. So I disconnected the SSD and it turned on!

I replaced the sata cable and now it turns on, but my mb doesn't detect the SSD. In my bios i have the following settings:

SATA CONTROLLERS: ENABLED
SATA MODE SELECTION: AHCI
SATA AGGRESSIVE LIK POWER MANAGEMENT: ENABLED
HARD DISK S.M.A.R.T: DISABLED

I also changed the sata device type from hard disk driver to solid state drive, but that didn't work either.

What should I do :(?
 

Steltek

Diamond Member
Mar 29, 2001
3,072
774
136
That doesn't seem like a grounding issue, but more like possibly a defective SSD. Does the system post consistently with the SSD disconnected? Also, if you have a regular hard drive you can test with, does the system post consistently if you replace the SSD with the hard drive?

Your motherboard should have four onboard SATA connectors, three black SATA2 connectors and one gray SATA3 connector. The one that you need to plug the SSD in to is the gray connector. Is that where you have it plugged in?
 

Loafers

Junior Member
May 7, 2012
16
0
0
Ok so it works with my old HDD. Frankly I'm surprised since PSU #3 worked with the SSD in the past (installed OS and everything), but now it doesn't even work. I guess I'll RMA it.

Also, worth mentioning is that PSU #1 still doesn't even turn on even with almost everything disconnected and removed from the case. The original nor the RMA replacement doesn't work and yet I believe it isn't defective because I can hear the electrical current go through it. I guess I'm just unlucky...

I also bought a new PSU (Corsair 650W) to test and it turns on the computer, but the fans don't spin. Is that normal?
 

Ketchup

Elite Member
Sep 1, 2002
14,546
238
106
I didn't think an SSD would cause something like that, but if you have tried other cables and other ports with the same result, it would lead me to the same conclusion. Now that you know what works and what doesn't, it may be time to put it back in the same and make sure the grounding issue is knocked out.

I have never had an Asrock board, so this could just be some behavior I am not familiar with.