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Need to replace Driver's side half shaft (CV's)
- Thread starter Analog
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boomerang
Lifer
I'd replace it too versus replacing the boot. It's not really cost-effective to just replace the boot at that price - IMO.
There's a big nut retaining the shaft to the hub and bearing assembly. It may be 34mm, I'm not sure of the size though. I remove them with a 1/2" impact and they come off fairly easy. I wire brush the threads on the shaft and lube it so as not to destroy the nut and allow it to come off easier.
You'll have to pop the lower ball joint out of the knuckle. Sometimes, it's necessary to pop the tie rod out of the knuckle to get enough free play to get the CV shaft completely free of the knuckle. Usually though, you can turn the wheel and manipulate everything and get it clear without removing the tie rod. You may need to remove the caliper to help with this.
You'll want to gently pry the CV shaft out of the trans. There is a snap ring on the stub that retains it.
When reassembling, the only thing to really be concerned about is the inner joint. It is possible to separate that joint if you allow the shaft to extend too much. I've never had a problem with it, I just tell you so you know that it's something to be aware of. Get that big nut as tight as you can get it. You should be able to handle this job without a problem.
I have not done this on your specific vehicle. These are generic instructions, but I think you'll find that they are pretty much spot on.
There's a big nut retaining the shaft to the hub and bearing assembly. It may be 34mm, I'm not sure of the size though. I remove them with a 1/2" impact and they come off fairly easy. I wire brush the threads on the shaft and lube it so as not to destroy the nut and allow it to come off easier.
You'll have to pop the lower ball joint out of the knuckle. Sometimes, it's necessary to pop the tie rod out of the knuckle to get enough free play to get the CV shaft completely free of the knuckle. Usually though, you can turn the wheel and manipulate everything and get it clear without removing the tie rod. You may need to remove the caliper to help with this.
You'll want to gently pry the CV shaft out of the trans. There is a snap ring on the stub that retains it.
When reassembling, the only thing to really be concerned about is the inner joint. It is possible to separate that joint if you allow the shaft to extend too much. I've never had a problem with it, I just tell you so you know that it's something to be aware of. Get that big nut as tight as you can get it. You should be able to handle this job without a problem.
I have not done this on your specific vehicle. These are generic instructions, but I think you'll find that they are pretty much spot on.
thedarkwolf
Diamond Member
Is it clicking yet? If not just leave it alone. They can last a long time before needing replaced due to the cracked boot and even after it starts clicking its not something you need to freak out about.
Analog
Lifer
The shaft is not clicking yet, but the ball joint on that side is worn, so since I'll have that off, I thought I'd do this too.
boomerang:
Even though you haven't done it on this vehicle, everything seems correct as you've described it. Once question though - once the nut is off the hub, how do I get the shaft off the hub? Will it just slide out, or will I have to hammer on the end of it or something? And should it come out the tranny side first, or the hub side? Thanks for your thoughts.
boomerang:
Even though you haven't done it on this vehicle, everything seems correct as you've described it. Once question though - once the nut is off the hub, how do I get the shaft off the hub? Will it just slide out, or will I have to hammer on the end of it or something? And should it come out the tranny side first, or the hub side? Thanks for your thoughts.
boomerang
Lifer
The shaft will slide out of the hub. I have had people tell me they've had them stick, but I've never experienced it. It's splined and not an interference fit, it should slide right out. If it sticks, thread the nut back on and beat on it a little. You might want to give it a tap before breaking the ball joint loose.
As far as which end first, I find that the hub first works the best although it appears to be the more awkward way to do it. You have to analyze the situation. The spline going into the trans is far shorter that the hub end, but there is often less room to maneuver it if you pop that end out first. Especially on the side where the pan on the trans is extended under the shaft.
There's no right or wrong way, whichever works best. Just keep the area around the trans clean in case you need to pop it back in and work from the hub end first.
You'll get all done and realize it was an easy job, but kind of a PITA to do.
As far as which end first, I find that the hub first works the best although it appears to be the more awkward way to do it. You have to analyze the situation. The spline going into the trans is far shorter that the hub end, but there is often less room to maneuver it if you pop that end out first. Especially on the side where the pan on the trans is extended under the shaft.
There's no right or wrong way, whichever works best. Just keep the area around the trans clean in case you need to pop it back in and work from the hub end first.
You'll get all done and realize it was an easy job, but kind of a PITA to do.
StageLeft
No Lifer
I second replacing it instead of worrying about trying to do the boot. It's a real pain in the ass to take the shaft apart and put it back together, let alone the filth involved with thoroughly cleaning out the joint, not to mention it's now been running for some unknown period of time without lots of lubricant.
I've done three of these on maximas. The only unexpected problem I had was on the passenger side of an 00 max. The axle is held in place by a bracket and for the life of me I could NOT get the damn thing out of the bracket. I finally had to actually remove the bracket and take it out attached to the shaft, then hammer the bracket off. Putting it back in was similarly difficult, but this is a unique problem to the car, I think. Normally when you undo everything and start yanking the shaft will pop out.
I've done three of these on maximas. The only unexpected problem I had was on the passenger side of an 00 max. The axle is held in place by a bracket and for the life of me I could NOT get the damn thing out of the bracket. I finally had to actually remove the bracket and take it out attached to the shaft, then hammer the bracket off. Putting it back in was similarly difficult, but this is a unique problem to the car, I think. Normally when you undo everything and start yanking the shaft will pop out.
Demon-Xanth
Lifer
If you have the hub already off, it's really easy. You just need to pry it off the transmission, but be careful not to damage the seal. It'll just "pop" and slide out easily.
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