It would seem that I've got a bolt that's stuck and has no corners...short of sawing the damn thing off, is there any solution? I've got the standard tools but no torch...
Need to remove a bolt w/no corners. Any advice?
- Thread starter b0mbrman
- Start date
First some WD40 then you can try some clamping pliers, etc, or you could try to file a couple of parallel straight edges on it and use a crescent wrench. A lot depends on how big it is, how easy to get to, etc.
Don't forget to tap it with a hammer, etc after you use the WD 40 to loosen it and to help the oil to penetrate.
Don't forget to tap it with a hammer, etc after you use the WD 40 to loosen it and to help the oil to penetrate.
That's been the biggest problem so far...it's pretty small and hard to get to...damn that Toyota...
10mm, ah man is that foreign or something. I don't do foreign bolts. It could be French. What is 10mm in like English?
guyver01
Lifer
- Sep 25, 2000
- 22,135
- 5
- 61
Try the GatorGrip Socket
Another Link
i've seen them in Target Stores.. but not online...
The revolutionary socket design automatically adjusts to fit any nut or bolt from 1/4" to 3/4" , 7-18 mm! Works great on metric, standard, wing nuts, broken nuts, stripped nuts, eye bolts, square nuts, hexes and more! Save Time! Save Work! Save Hassles with GATOR GRIP!
Another Link
i've seen them in Target Stores.. but not online...
The revolutionary socket design automatically adjusts to fit any nut or bolt from 1/4" to 3/4" , 7-18 mm! Works great on metric, standard, wing nuts, broken nuts, stripped nuts, eye bolts, square nuts, hexes and more! Save Time! Save Work! Save Hassles with GATOR GRIP!
A) BOLT HEAD CLEARLY ACCESSIBLE
I have used the following emergency fix for several of the above situations, including CV joint bolts on two different 911s and a brake caliper bracket on my Audi. This works for the smaller size Allen head bolts in my experience (up to approx. 8 mm hex). Get a good quality 6" pipe wrench (mine is by Ridgid); this small size will allow you to get into relatively tight areas. Wrap it around the bolt and pull up the slack. Now, whack the end of the wrench with a good size hammer. The wrench head will bite into the bolts and provide a good grip; the hammer will help shock the bolt loose.
B) BOLT HEAD NOT TOTALLY ACCESSIBLE
I found this method when I stripped the 6 MM bolt heads holding the seat in place; these are buried inside a U-channel, and you only have access to about a 30 degree arc on the bolt head. With a quality center punch and a heavy hammer, knock a centering kink in the center of the side of the bolt head (right angles to shaft, parallel to mounting surface). Now, while holding the center punch in the indented hole, move the punch head to the right slightly so that the punch is at an angle to the bolt head. Give the punch a sharp wrap with the hammer; if you're lucky, should be able to break the bolt free with a few tries.
I have used the following emergency fix for several of the above situations, including CV joint bolts on two different 911s and a brake caliper bracket on my Audi. This works for the smaller size Allen head bolts in my experience (up to approx. 8 mm hex). Get a good quality 6" pipe wrench (mine is by Ridgid); this small size will allow you to get into relatively tight areas. Wrap it around the bolt and pull up the slack. Now, whack the end of the wrench with a good size hammer. The wrench head will bite into the bolts and provide a good grip; the hammer will help shock the bolt loose.
B) BOLT HEAD NOT TOTALLY ACCESSIBLE
I found this method when I stripped the 6 MM bolt heads holding the seat in place; these are buried inside a U-channel, and you only have access to about a 30 degree arc on the bolt head. With a quality center punch and a heavy hammer, knock a centering kink in the center of the side of the bolt head (right angles to shaft, parallel to mounting surface). Now, while holding the center punch in the indented hole, move the punch head to the right slightly so that the punch is at an angle to the bolt head. Give the punch a sharp wrap with the hammer; if you're lucky, should be able to break the bolt free with a few tries.
Just to ensure you're not overlooking the obvious: is there perhaps a nut on the other end of the bolt that you can remove, then slide the bolt out of its hole?
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