Need suggestions for a table saw

[Leros]

I'm looking for table saw. Something towards the low-end. I'm no carpenter and it won't probably won't see too much use.

I want one with a stand. Preferably foldable.
(Will a non-foldable stand work with other devices (like a router table)? If so, that would be ok.)

I'll link to a few of the ones I've seen as I've looked around, but I'm open to any suggestions. Everything I've looked at is 10in 15Amp.

Ryobi RTS10 with rigid stand - $130 at Home Depot

Ryobi BTS16 with Collapsible Stand - $200 at Home Depot

Ryobi RTS20 with Collapsible Stand - $200 at Home Depot

Skil 3310-01 w rigid stand - $150 at Lowes

Skil 3410-01 with foldable stand - $200 at Lowes

Craftsman 28461 w/ rigid stand - $137 at Sears

Craftsman 21807 - $300 at Sears (way more expensive, but looks like a solid machine. Just a reference).

There used to be a decent amount of low end options at Amazon, but I can't find them anymore, which is a shame because I have $200 of credit with them.

Cheaper is better, but I'd rather spend more if it means not being disappointed with something junky (but remember, occasional use by a non-carpenter).
That being said, my goal was to pay $150, but I'm willing to go to $200 if it seems worth it. You're really going to have to convince me to spend more.

 

[Yzzim]

No idea on the others but I received the Craftsman 28461 as a birthday gift last year and it has suited me well for light use.
The rip fence (thing that you set the measurement at?) is a little questionable. There's a ruler on the front of the saw that you can set the fence at and lock it down but I always get the tape measure out to measure the back where there's no lock. Usually it's ok, just off a bit sometimes.
My wife purchased the 3 year warranty from Sears for an additional $20 or $30 just in case. Haven't had to use it yet.

 

[Zebo]

If in that budget I'd hit Craigs list or yards sales for a real saw. Construction has dropped to nil so guys have been hawking their professional tools for awhile. The most important thing is a good fence for safety and straight cuts which costs what those saws you are looking at costs. But you may be able to get whole shabang and a 3-5 HP motor at that price.

 

[Leros]

If in that budget I'd hit Craigs list or yards sales for a real saw. Construction has dropped to nil so guys have been hawking their professional tools for awhile. The most important thing is a good fence for safety and straight cuts which costs what those saws you are looking at costs. But you may be able to get whole shabang and a 3-5 HP motor at that price.

I've taken a look at craigslist. There is a lot of junk and a lot of stuff above my price range. As for the remaining stuff, it seems of questionable quality and I don't know enough to really tell. Considering its a dangerous tool, I'd rather just buy a new one so I can feel comfortable with it.

 

[Zebo]

I've taken a look at craigslist. There is a lot of junk and a lot of stuff above my price range. As for the remaining stuff, it seems of questionable quality and I don't know enough to really tell. Considering its a dangerous tool, I'd rather just buy a new one so I can feel comfortable with it.

That's cool. Looking at ones presented I'd say the carftsman for $299 seems to have best fence system. Just try them. Is it smooth moving. Does it lock and fence staying in place front and back if you hit it with your fist? Like I said a good fence is by far most important consideration to prevent injury and good cuts.

 

[Zebo]

I actuallu have an extra powermatic 3 horse 220V cabinet saw but has no fence I'd let go for $550. New was $2200. Slap a beismeier or vega pro fence on it and you're golden.

 

[Leros]

Zebo, your suggestions are too high end. Its like suggesting a $1000 laptop for somebody that needs to check their email.

 

[Kelvrick]

What are you going to be using it for? What is your real budget? Are you also thinking about new blades you probably will need? My freud blades were another 70 each. Of course, if you're just going to be rough cutting a bunch of stuff, the factory one will work.

Do you have harbor freights around you? If so, will Home Depot or Lowes take one of their many 20% off coupons? If so, you can move on up a little more.

 

[Leros]

What are you going to be using it for? What is your real budget? Are you also thinking about new blades you probably will need? My freud blades were another 70 each. Of course, if you're just going to be rough cutting a bunch of stuff, the factory one will work.

Do you have harbor freights around you? If so, will Home Depot or Lowes take one of their many 20% off coupons? If so, you can move on up a little more.

Cutting plywood and MDF for the occasional project. Nothing big. I'll probably use it a few times a year.

Considering how little I plan on using this, I really don't want to spend over $200.

 

[Bubbaleone]

......Cheaper is better, but I'd rather spend more if it means not being disappointed with something junky (but remember, occasional use by a non-carpenter).
That being said, my goal was to pay $150, but I'm willing to go to $200 if it seems worth it. You're really going to have to convince me to spend more.

All table saws under $500.00 (which is still a very cheaply constructed saw) get to that price by substituting plastic components (adjusters, fasteners, tensioners, etc.) for metal components. They are not in the least durable; roller bearings are replaced with cheap bushings wherever possible, and inherently inaccurate by virtue of the fact that nothing will stay locked in place (fence, blade-height, belts, etc.) as the result of all these "cost-cutting innovations". Where tools are concerned you get exactly what you pay for.

 

[Leros]

All table saws under $500.00 (which is still a very cheaply constructed saw) get to that price by substituting plastic components (adjusters, fasteners, tensioners, etc.) for metal components. They are not in the least durable; roller bearings are replaced with cheap bushings wherever possible, and inherently inaccurate by virtue of the fact that nothing will stay locked in place (fence, blade-height, belts, etc.) as the result of all these "cost-cutting innovations". Where tools are concerned you get exactly what you pay for.

I totally understand that. I've had $300+ soldering irons and absolutely loved them, but I would suggest a $50 or cheaper one to a friend who plans to use one occasionally.

 

[Away]

Something you want to consider is the safety on the cheaper saws. Kickback protection from a riving knife is almost essential in my opinion. The Craftsman 21807 does have a riving knife and Sears is currently running a discount on their site that knocks the price down to around $250.

 

[Dr. Zaus]

Just get the cheapest thing at Walmart.
It'll cut right?

Well hell, that'll do'r.

I put down that click-in-place flooring for 1k sqr ft worth of dome-floor with a circular saw and a saw horse made of end-tables and a fat man.

 

[highland145]

Cutting plywood and MDF for the occasional project. Nothing big. I'll probably use it a few times a year.

Considering how little I plan on using this, I really don't want to spend over $200.

If that's it, a circular saw, 2 saw horses and a guide rail that you clamp to the plywood.

Then you could buy a decent circular saw that'll last you many years.

 

[drnickriviera]

I was going to suggest the same as highland. Unless you have some good infeed and outfeed tables, it's going to be fun cutting sheet goods. When i'm going cabinetry, I cut the sheets into rough dimensions with the circular saw and a clamp on track. Then go to the table saw for clean cuts.

 

[highland145]

I was going to suggest the same as highland. Unless you have some good infeed and outfeed tables, it's going to be fun cutting sheet goods. When i'm going cabinetry, I cut the sheets into rough dimensions with the circular saw and a clamp on track. Then go to the table saw for clean cuts.

 

[velillen]

If that's it, a circular saw, 2 saw horses and a guide rail that you clamp to the plywood.

Then you could buy a decent circular saw that'll last you many years.

I've done quite a few projects that way. Though i have a "cheap" battery powered circular saw but it still does the job!

Another option is always to have Home Depot or Lowes just cut your wood for you. Even if its just cutting to rough sizes. Trying to cut a full sheet on those smaller table saws could be a challenge. But I have had Lowes do sheets for me so i didnt have to do the circ saw + guide method at home

 

[D1gger]

My suggestion for a table saw would be to suggest that you DON'T use your hand to stop the blade.

 

[Drako]

As others have suggested, just get a good circular saw. You'll save a lot of space in your garage/work area 🙂.

 

[BurnItDwn]

I have a SKIL circular saw, 7 and 1/4 inch with a laser guide that was like $70 or so. I've used it for OSB, plywood, moulding, 2x4s, 1x2 furring strips, and everything in between.)
I've ripped full 4x8 sheets of OSB and ply with it as well as smaller chunks.

Table saw would sometimes have been nice, but, to be honest, the next saw I'm looking to get will be a Miter saw, would have made cutting 2x4s and moulding so much easier!!!

 

[heymrdj]

I also agree that two really flexible saw horses (ones with all the clamp mounting points ect), with plywood clamps (they can span a whole sheet and lock it down) with a circular saw with a built in laser guide (or add on) and you'll be way ahead of fighting a table saw. You can easily get all that in your 200$ range.

Believe me I seem to be addicted to projects that use plywood (truck sand holding platform, server stand, 6 sets of shelving, shoe rack, box lid, blah blah), you'll be better with a circ than a table saw.

 

[Modelworks]

Ryobi and craftsman used to be good but now they are pretty poor in construction. I don't recommend the sub $300 models for anything but occasional usage.

As others said, get a good circular saw instead and make sure you buy a really heavy gauge extension cord to go with it, 12AWG for anything over 15 ft, small cords are the number one reason saws perform poorly or burn the motor out quickly.

 

[bguile]

A tablesaw is one of the most important tools in a workshop from my experience and not something I would go cheap on.

If your looking to go cheap, then this is one more vote to get a good circular saw over a cheap tablesaw.

 

[vi edit]

One problem with cheap table saws is their weight...or lack there of. If you are trying to feed even a 2' x 4' sheet of MDF through it then it's going to want to slide/rock on you. Now let me tell you that is a freaky experience and not the least bit fun.

 

[Doodoo]

Bought one of the collapsible ryobi ones from home depot to install some hardwood floors and found that when i turned it on, the movement of the motor caused the blade to angle 3-4 degrees. I ended up angling the blade 3-4 degrees and hoped that the motor would move it back after turning it on. Big pain in the ass..so i ended up returning it.