Need some maintainence advice for my Camry

[statik213]

I have no knowledge of the cars previous maintenance record. Since I got it, i have had the timing belt changed, a bunch of suspension work, new pads & rotors and a new thermostat.

I'm planing on keeping this car for another 3 years and putting in at least 40k more miles on it. I don't mind spending a few hundred now to do some maintenance and save me pain later.

The car rides well but feels a little underpowered -- there is nothing wrong as far as i can tell.

How do I find out what work this car needs without being ripped off? I called a shop (they haven't seen it yet) and the guy wanted to sell me a transmission flush, a coolant flush and a full tune up with a fuel service. I'm not sure exactly what all that means (esp the fuel service).
He quoted me around $470 -- this is in the Nothern VA - DC area.
What should I do? Should I even bother spending this $$?

 

[CrackRabbit]

Don't go to that shop. Period.
The transmission flush is the only item I would reccomend having done at a shop. Should run about $70.
If you are worried about a tune up changing the plugs and wires can be done in less than an hour and much cheaper than the shop would want to charge you.

 

[Pliablemoose]

The BS in what they quoted you is the "Full Tune Up"

A tune up nowdays is new spark plugs, and inspect everything.

I would have the transmission fluid change done at a different shop, changing the coolant is a good idea too, plugs & wires I'd do myself but a shop should do them for you for not much money, just look for a special.

I'd suggest a fuel filter change too, and you should be done...

 

[GoatMonkey]

This is crazy. Everyone knows that Japanese cars never break down. So why bother with maintenance?

 

[statik213]

Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
Don't go to that shop. Period.
The transmission flush is the only item I would reccomend having done at a shop. Should run about $70.
If you are worried about a tune up changing the plugs and wires can be done in less than an hour and much cheaper than the shop would want to charge you.

How difficult is it to change the plugs and wires? What are the chance of me screwing it up?

 

[Pliablemoose]

http://autorepair.about.com/od...ss/plugs_replace_7.htm

How do I change spark plugs?

First, you'll need anti-seize compound (just a little!), and a spark plug wrench or a socket with at least one extension - six inches is usually a good length - because modern cars often have the spark plugs at the bottom of a tube. Spark plug sockets have a rubber gasket in them which helps to grip the plug, helping it to come out more easily. Spark plug wrenches are designed to get into hard to reach spots, but can't really be used for anything else, and may not be enough, so I'd recommend getting a good, small socket wrench set (Sears Craftsman often discounts their high-quality sets!) with an extension and spark plug wrench. It's expensive the first time but you can keep it and use it on more than one car or project.

On many new engines, there is a cover which blocks access to spark plugs, wires, etc. To replace them, you have to take off the cover; often, that makes the location of the plugs easy. For example, on the three-liter V6, you have to remove the plastic cover by taking out two Allen-head screws. At that point, you'll see the spark plugs going into the plugs. On V6 engines in general, the back plugs are hard to reach, and may require a swivel joint and another extension; on some, you have to move the coil-on-plug ignition coil out of the way. Front plugs and four-cylinders are generally easier!

Taking out the old plugs is fairly easy, though they generally require some torque to loosen up. (Not too much since the engines are made of aluminum!). First, unplug the wire - grasp it firmly by the boot, the thick and heavy part of the wire. Change just one at a time so you don't forget which wire goes where (if you do, never fear, a posting on the toyoland or corolland forums should get you an answer - as will a Hayne's or Chilton's manual or a call to a mechanic.) When putting in the new ones, put just a little anti-seize compound on the tip of the threads (screwing it in will distribute it) so the plug is easy to remove later, and follow the manufacturer's recommendations on tightness. Too tight, and you have serious problems when you try to take it out (thread-stripping is expensive!). Too loose, and they might work back out or might be too far away from the action. Some Toyotas actually have torque specifications for plugs, so you should probably get a manual (Hayne's or Chilton's, or Toyota if you have the money) before starting; you may need a torque wrench. (You certainly will need a torque wrench if you have to remove coils from the plugs first, because they have to be put on to a specific torque rating).

http://www.toyoland.com/faq.html

 

[skyking]

I drive a '98 camry with 150K miles. I have done two timing belts, an alternator, and damn little else aside from the normal brakes. No timing, only plugs to change, air and fuel filters. I suppose I should service the tranny soon.

 

[RU482]

Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
Don't go to that shop. Period.
The transmission flush is the only item I would reccomend having done at a shop. Should run about $70.
If you are worried about a tune up changing the plugs and wires can be done in less than an hour and much cheaper than the shop would want to charge you.

if you've got a 4cyl...plugs and wires are crazy easy on that car
Do a little reading, ask questions, save big money!!
You're off to a good start


Also run some high end fuel system cleaner in your next few tanks (techron or something of that caliber). Change the air and fuel filters....if it still seems sluggish, I dunno

 

[SearchMaster]

Originally posted by: skyking
I suppose I should service the tranny soon.

Sig-worthy?

 

[statik213]

Originally posted by: redly1

Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
Don't go to that shop. Period.
The transmission flush is the only item I would reccomend having done at a shop. Should run about $70.
If you are worried about a tune up changing the plugs and wires can be done in less than an hour and much cheaper than the shop would want to charge you.

if you've got a 4cyl...plugs and wires are crazy easy on that car
Do a little reading, ask questions, save big money!!
You're off to a good start


Also run some high end fuel system cleaner in your next few tanks (techron or something of that caliber). Change the air and fuel filters....if it still seems sluggish, I dunno

Yeah, I've been pretty much convinced to do the spark plugs and wires myself. I don't think i'll get to it today -- next weekend.
I already did the air filter last month. The fuel filter looks tough, i don't have the jacks and stuff to get under the car.

Thanks a lot guys.

 

[skyking]

Originally posted by: SearchMaster

Originally posted by: skyking
I suppose I should service the tranny soon.

Sig-worthy?

Yeah, you don't want the damn thing going out on you.........

 

[evident]

Originally posted by: statik213

Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
Don't go to that shop. Period.
The transmission flush is the only item I would reccomend having done at a shop. Should run about $70.
If you are worried about a tune up changing the plugs and wires can be done in less than an hour and much cheaper than the shop would want to charge you.

How difficult is it to change the plugs and wires? What are the chance of me screwing it up?

in my experience, changing the plugs and wires on my 96 camry were cake, but I think it also might be good to change the rotor cap when you change the plugs/wires as well. I've personally never done the cap before, but it seems fairly accessible on a gen 3 camry at least.

 

[BUTCH1]

If it's a V6 the rear plugs might be a pain to get at, depends on the car YMMV..also a good
idea to buy a can of compressed air and blow out the plug holes after you have removed
the wires, don't want any loose debris/sand falling into the hole!

 

[steppinthrax]

I bought a 99 Camry Last week. I just changed plugs (but no wires). It runs much smoother now at idle. The guy that owned it (92 year old man) never changed the plugs since he owned the car. When I removed the plugs the electrodes were worn down. They were the original NGK spark plugs.

 

[skyking]

Originally posted by: evident

Originally posted by: statik213

Originally posted by: CrackRabbit
Don't go to that shop. Period.
The transmission flush is the only item I would reccomend having done at a shop. Should run about $70.
If you are worried about a tune up changing the plugs and wires can be done in less than an hour and much cheaper than the shop would want to charge you.

How difficult is it to change the plugs and wires? What are the chance of me screwing it up?

in my experience, changing the plugs and wires on my 96 camry were cake, but I think it also might be good to change the rotor cap when you change the plugs/wires as well. I've personally never done the cap before, but it seems fairly accessible on a gen 3 camry at least.

98 camry has no distributor, and hence no cap/rotor. It really has no wire problems either.

 

[statik213]

OK, Finally got around to doing it. I replaced all the sparks, the old plugs had only a light layer of grey deposit on it. Not sure what this means (the manual says i should see a redish deposit) but the plugs looked pretty clean.

There were two things I wasn't sure about -- how much anti-seize compound to add and how tight to make the plugs. I put a light coat of the anti-seize so much that once it was rubbed into the thread u couldn't quite see it. I bought a $20 torque wrench from Advance Auto Parts and set it to 156 lb-Inces (13 lb-ft) and didn't tighten it all the way until the wrench "clicked" -- it seemed like I was applying a lot more force tightening it than when I was removing it. Should I go back and tighten the plugs up to the 13 lb-ft spec?

The car seems a little smoother now, but i haven't really driven it yet.
The trick with the rubber-tube to thread the new plug worked great -- AAP gave me a 3/8 " hose that fit the plug.


I didn't change the wires though --- should I do that next?

Thanks a bunch guys!

 

[cardiac]

Nice job. You do get a decent sense of pride doing your own repairs, don't you? Not only that, if you ever break down on the road, you will have a little knowledge to try and fix it.

Did you ever flush the radiator/replace the coolant? Also, the transmission? At least get a filter and fluid replacement on the trans. Also, check your serpentine belt for any cracks or wear......

Just did a complete front brake job on my E-150 van yesterday. It came out great!

Bob

 

[statik213]

Originally posted by: cardiac
Nice job. You do get a decent sense of pride doing your own repairs, don't you? Not only that, if you ever break down on the road, you will have a little knowledge to try and fix it.

Did you ever flush the radiator/replace the coolant? Also, the transmission? At least get a filter and fluid replacement on the trans. Also, check your serpentine belt for any cracks or wear......

Just did a complete front brake job on my E-150 van yesterday. It came out great!

Bob

Thanks, it does feel good that the tools and part cost less than paying for the tune-up.

I'm going to get a trans-flush next weekend. I guess I should do the coolant-change myself.
I had the timing belt changed last year -- I'm not sure if the serpentine belt was also changed. Is it standard to do the serpentine belt also? I remember paying extra (just in parts) to replace a few more belts.

 

[cardiac]

Originally posted by: statik213

Originally posted by: cardiac
Nice job. You do get a decent sense of pride doing your own repairs, don't you? Not only that, if you ever break down on the road, you will have a little knowledge to try and fix it.

Did you ever flush the radiator/replace the coolant? Also, the transmission? At least get a filter and fluid replacement on the trans. Also, check your serpentine belt for any cracks or wear......

Just did a complete front brake job on my E-150 van yesterday. It came out great!

Bob

Thanks, it does feel good that the tools and part cost less than paying for the tune-up.

I'm going to get a trans-flush next weekend. I guess I should do the coolant-change myself.
I had the timing belt changed last year -- I'm not sure if the serpentine belt was also changed. Is it standard to do the serpentine belt also? I remember paying extra (just in parts) to replace a few more belts.

Unless the belt looked real bad, or you requested it changed, it was probably left alone.
You should be able to look at the serpentine and tell if it's good or not.

When you change your coolant, make sure that after you do change it that you "burp" all of the air out of the system. Some folks have many ways of doing it, but I usually just put a 50-50 mixture in and run it without the radiator cap on until the level drops and then top it off. Give the hoses a squeeze or two and get the remaining air out of the system.

I did find this for you which was a pretty good read: Coolant Flush tutorial.

Have fun!!

Bob

 

[drpootums]

If you have an extra minute there's a really easy way to check out your engine seals and see if you have any blow-by (if you're doing other matenence anyways, it's nice to see what kind of shape the engine is in):

1. Pop the hood and unscrew your oil cap.
2. Turn your engine on.
3. Put a small piece of paper over the hole (bigger than the hole, but not too thick or too big)

If oil spits out or the paper is blown away, your seals are worn down and you have some blow-by. However, if the paper is held in place by your engine then the seals are in good shape and you can see that the previous driver didn't abuse the engine (or at least didn't abuse it too much).

Just takes a minute, but it's worth checking out.