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Need some advice on staining, varnishing and sealing a door.

B

BooGiMaN

Diamond Member
I recently got a brand new door for the living room for free but its an unfinished door.

Its one of those expensive solid wood doors with heavy glass in the middle but i have no idea how to stain and finish it..i have never done anything like this before

The guys at home depot said id have to apply like 10 coats on it and the whole process would take a week or two?!?

your expertise, and advice is appreciated.
 
Get some thick rubber gloves (made for staining). Use an old lintless rag to rub the stain on uniformly. A rag usually works better than a brush. I'd lay it flat and do one side, let it sit for an hour or two, then do the other side and the edges. (on saw horses, or even on the floor, but use a sheet of plastic to protect the floor.)

For varnish, get a quality brush for varnish, and do one side of the door at a time, following the directions on the can. Personally, I've used polyurethane in the past... there's a type that doesn't require light sanding between coats, as long as successive coats are applied within 24 hours (but after 4 hours drying time).

Don't be tempted by the stain/polyurethane all in one products. It's much more difficult to be consistent with the color IMHO. Plus, successive coats darken the color.

edit: Since it doesn't sound like you've done a lot of home projects before, listen to this advice or learn the hard way... you get what you pay for. Buy a cheap quality brush or cheap varnish, and it'll either look like crap when you're done, or you'll have to re-varnish it within just a couple of years, or other problems may occur. The first time I completely sanded my hardwood floors, stained them, and put on 4 coats of polyurethane, I spent about 30-40 hours doing the work. But, I used bargain brand polyurethane. The result was having to redo *ALL* of the work in only 4 years. The 2nd time, I used the best polyurethane I could find. It's holding up much better to wear. I regret that I learned the hard way.
 
I've used polyurethane in the past... there's a type that doesn't require light sanding between coats, as long as successive coats are applied within 24 hours (but after 4 hours drying time).
Click to expand...
Actually, that would be a product from Minwax. They also have a "Super fast drying" version of poly that runs $29.00 for a gallon, but dries in less time than 4 hours. The 4-hour stuff is the "fast drying" version of the poly.

 
Just got some info from a painter about this last week. He finished some commercial doors that had oak veneer on them. They came out beautifully, and he didn't put too much time into them. First, a sanding sealer was applied with a short nap roller. Within a couple hours, he sanded them with what I would call a sanding sponge, with fine grit. After that (I assume he wiped 'em with a tack cloth, but didn't see him do that), he applied varnish, not polyurethane, with the roller again. The finish was perfect! I suppose you would apply stain after the sanding sealer, then the varnish.

I applied almost the same finish to our porch ceiling 17 years ago. I just shot this picture, and this close up of the ceiling. Damn! With the bright light of the flash, I notice I missed some spots! never saw that before 😱

Anyway, I used Minwax products to do it while the lumber was still on the ground. I did each board individually, which allowed the finish to get in the tongue and grooves thoroughly. I used a sealer, but didn't sand it. That allows it to take the stain evenly. Then I applied the stain within 20 minutes or so. After that dried, I applied Spar Varnish. The guy who sold it to me said that's what they use on boats, so it should be fine for the ceiling. Seems to be holding up OK.

The point is, do use a sealer. The painter last week, told me that it raised the grain, which would be sanded down, and not rise again after the varnish was applied. Believe me, these oak doors ended up furniture grade perfect!
 
These guys have given ya good advice. I would suggest you not use a water based poly. They are tempting though, the cans say you can do 120 coats in day or whatever.. It just doesn't look as good, or hold up as well as an oil based varnish or polyurathane.
 
Oh man, what L vis said times ten! I used some of that stuff on a pine paneled door. Looks like crap. I'll have to redo them next summer. God, I hope furniture refinisher will take it off now... :disgust:
 
thanks guys for the advice i have done a lot of home improvemnt stuff but never anything like this...🙂
 
yep ... stay away from the waterbased poly.
What kind of wood is it? If it's pine, you definitely want to use a "pre-stain" product first ... NOT a sealer. This will help avoid blotching, etc.

Be carefull not to drip stain down onto the other side, or allow drips or runs on the current side without quickly brushing them out, or you'll see it in the finished product.

For a "fast drying" poly, thin it with about 1/4 to 1/3 paint thinner. I always do this with the first coat, and ussually with all coats (2 or 3 depending how much wear it will get) ... it raises the grain better to sand down between coats, which gives you a better final finish. Sand with that black wet/dry paper ... probably start at 300 unless its really rough on the first coat. Remember, when using poly or varnish, a good brush is important, and dust or insects are your worst enemy!

I always use minwax poly ... tried Bear once and wasn't happy with it.
 
Originally posted by: ergeorge
yep ... stay away from the waterbased poly.
What kind of wood is it? If it's pine, you definitely want to use a "pre-stain" product first ... NOT a sealer. This will help avoid blotching, etc.

Be carefull not to drip stain down onto the other side, or allow drips or runs on the current side without quickly brushing them out, or you'll see it in the finished product.

For a "fast drying" poly, thin it with about 1/4 to 1/3 paint thinner. I always do this with the first coat, and ussually with all coats (2 or 3 depending how much wear it will get) ... it raises the grain better to sand down between coats, which gives you a better final finish. Sand with that black wet/dry paper ... probably start at 300 unless its really rough on the first coat. Remember, when using poly or varnish, a good brush is important, and dust or insects are your worst enemy!

I always use minwax poly ... tried Bear once and wasn't happy with it.
Click to expand...

what do i do about insects getting caught in the stuff when its drying?
 
Originally posted by: BooGiMaN
Originally posted by: ergeorge
yep ... stay away from the waterbased poly.
What kind of wood is it? If it's pine, you definitely want to use a "pre-stain" product first ... NOT a sealer. This will help avoid blotching, etc.

Be carefull not to drip stain down onto the other side, or allow drips or runs on the current side without quickly brushing them out, or you'll see it in the finished product.

For a "fast drying" poly, thin it with about 1/4 to 1/3 paint thinner. I always do this with the first coat, and ussually with all coats (2 or 3 depending how much wear it will get) ... it raises the grain better to sand down between coats, which gives you a better final finish. Sand with that black wet/dry paper ... probably start at 300 unless its really rough on the first coat. Remember, when using poly or varnish, a good brush is important, and dust or insects are your worst enemy!

I always use minwax poly ... tried Bear once and wasn't happy with it.
Click to expand...

what do i do about insects getting caught in the stuff when its drying?
Click to expand...

depends how wet the stuff still is. If its wet enough you can sometimes pick them off & brush it out ... otherwise, let it dry, sand it out, and do another coat.
 
I just now figured it out, thank you. I don't have the cans left from when I did the job, but the conditioner is probably what I was given. Conditioner for staining. Sanding sealer for straight varnish or poly... got it!

Edit: Hmmm, that Minwax sanding sealer doesn't say it can be used under varnish, it just mentions Polyurethane.
 
Originally posted by: Ornery
Oh man, what L vis said times ten! I used some of that stuff on a pine paneled door. Looks like crap. I'll have to redo them next summer. God, I hope furniture refinisher will take it off now... :disgust:
Click to expand...


I worked on a boat that had this crap used on it. The entire interior of 37ft yacht. It was reacting poorly to the teak, it was spotting due to the oils in the wood.

We got the guys that made the stuff to come and take a look at the boat. They had no answers. We asked them the best way to remove it, and they told us to SAND it off.

Paint stripper turns the stuff to snot... really hard to deal with. Rather like rubber cement on every thing. I never tried a heat gun, though. That may do it.

Good luck

 
I just referred back to this topic, because I have a shelf to stain. Couldn't remember whether to seal it, or what. CONDITIONER is what I want! I hope I don't have to make another trip to the hardware store...

Thanks again, ergeorge!
 
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