Need help with the X-Clamp fix!

[hans030390]

I decided I'd try to fix a RRODed 360, considering the success rate is very high, and I could potentially save myself $250.

I've been reading about the X-clamp fix, and it looks pretty simple. I've noticed two main guides (Lawdawg0931's method and RBJtech's method), and they both seem similar. I like Lawdawg's, as it seems to be much simpler/easier while still providing excellent results.

I've also seen minor variations, where people would do slight alterations to those.

Has anyone had any experience with the x-clamp mod? Any success, tips?

I'll be getting the 360 in a few days, and I want to be prepared to hopefully fix it in the best possible way.

Any help, advice, etc is greatly appreciated!

 

[bob4432]

i did a mix of the two. since my 360 is always horizontal, i didn't attach the heatsinks to the inner metal case, just the backside of the pcb. the screws i got had larger heads on them and they basically allow the board to sit flat w/ no sagging.

also i did mine on a non rrod 360 (before the 3yr warranty was released) so who knows hot it will go.

will also be doing the "paco freeze" here in a bit w/ a 70mm fan upfront blowing under the rom to get more air over the gpu heatsink.

 

[RaiderJ]

I used pan head machine screws that when installed rest on the metal case. Works great. Go to Home Depot and get:

4x pan head machine screws
4x nylon washers
4x lock washers
4x regular washers

When you install them, do them in this order:

Heatsink
Washer
Nylon Washer
--------------
Mainboard
--------------
Lock Washer
Pan Head Screw
--------------
Metal Case


Also replace the thermal paste since you're there anyway. Once you have all the bolts/washers in place, tighten everything down with small amount of force. Then, go in a cross pattern and tighten down everything even more. The idea here is to keep the pressure equal on the heatsink/GPU. After that, put the motherboard back into the metal case and tighten down the rest of the screws. Connect everything else up EXCEPT the fans. Turn the system on, let it overheat, turn it off, and let everything cool down. After that, it should work on the next power on.

I also extend the fan shroud over the GPU heatsink with some aluminum tape. That way you know that air is flowing across the entire heatsink. Also worthwhile to install aftermarket fans, as they are quieter and move more air.

 

[hans030390]

Could you be more specific about the sizes/lengths of the screws and other parts that you bought? I have a HD within a minute of my house, and I want to know exactly (and I mean exactly) what I need.

How are my chances at fixing it? How long has your system(s) been running like this? What should I do if the RROD pops back up?

I have read answers to these already, but I want to see what you guys have to say.

I'm just hoping that the money I spend will be well invested.

 

[hans030390]

Originally posted by: bob4432
i did a mix of the two. since my 360 is always horizontal, i didn't attach the heatsinks to the inner metal case, just the backside of the pcb. the screws i got had larger heads on them and they basically allow the board to sit flat w/ no sagging.

also i did mine on a non rrod 360 (before the 3yr warranty was released) so who knows hot it will go.

will also be doing the "paco freeze" here in a bit w/ a 70mm fan upfront blowing under the rom to get more air over the gpu heatsink.

I've heard of people doing this, using the screw heads as support against the metal casing. I'd be interested in doing that, if it might help fix the problem any more (or help keep it more stable, keeping it from coming back). What were the specifics of the screws you used?

 

[RaiderJ]

I don't remember the exact part numbers... one of those guides you mentioned did have a list of numbers. I used those except for the bolts - I used pan head instead of the regular bolts as they were too thick. What you can do is bring in the heatsink, and use that to test bolt threads. M5.8x10mm or something like that, but I had to use the imperial measurement equivalent since there weren't any metric pan head screws.

 

[hans030390]

Originally posted by: RaiderJ
I don't remember the exact part numbers... one of those guides you mentioned did have a list of numbers. I used those except for the bolts - I used pan head instead of the regular bolts as they were too thick. What you can do is bring in the heatsink, and use that to test bolt threads. M5.8x10mm or something like that, but I had to use the imperial measurement equivalent since there weren't any metric pan head screws.

I should probably go into HD knowing what to look for in both metric and imperial. Anyway to convert those measurements?

 

[RaiderJ]

Originally posted by: hans030390

Originally posted by: RaiderJ
I don't remember the exact part numbers... one of those guides you mentioned did have a list of numbers. I used those except for the bolts - I used pan head instead of the regular bolts as they were too thick. What you can do is bring in the heatsink, and use that to test bolt threads. M5.8x10mm or something like that, but I had to use the imperial measurement equivalent since there weren't any metric pan head screws.

I should probably go into HD knowing what to look for in both metric and imperial. Anyway to convert those measurements?

Not that I know of. If you just bring in your heatsink, you can easily check the threads on it. That's what I did.

The fix has worked great for me. I left the one system on for 24 hours straight without problems, and it has been working for over a month now.

 

[hans030390]

Ok, so that will work with the width, but what about length? How long would the screw need to be? What about the width (or "thickness") of the washers and such?

 

[RaiderJ]

The washers should all be 1mm thick, that's all that's available really. The screws should be around 1/2" in length.

Start off by getting the screws, then match the washers and such to make sure they fit.

 

[Jhill]

Are some people getting broken xboxes and fixing them with this method?
Money is tight for me right now, so I maytry this. Where is the best place to get a RRODed xbox?

 

[dmw16]

If money is tight for you, why would you risk buying a bricked Xbox and MAYBE being able to fix it? Or MAYBE not and being out more money?

On another note, with MS extending everyone's warranty to 3 years, why bother fixing them?

 

[hans030390]

Originally posted by: dmw16
If money is tight for you, why would you risk buying a bricked Xbox and MAYBE being able to fix it? Or MAYBE not and being out more money?

On another note, with MS extending everyone's warranty to 3 years, why bother fixing them?

It's not bricked, it's the 3 red lights problem. The fix for it is really pretty simple. If you don't know about it, look up the x-clamp fix for the 360.

The rate of successfully fixing a red-light system with that method is around 90% (on the xbox scene "success thread"). So, if you get a 360 for $100 with that particular problem, and you end up fixing it, you just saved yourself $250.

If it doesn't fix it, just sell it back on ebay. People will buy them.

 

[gorcorps]

Originally posted by: dmw16
If money is tight for you, why would you risk buying a bricked Xbox and MAYBE being able to fix it? Or MAYBE not and being out more money?

On another note, with MS extending everyone's warranty to 3 years, why bother fixing them?

For those that have already cracked it open and voided the warranty. Or if you would rather deal with it yourself than wait 5 or more weeks.

 

[RaiderJ]

And some of us just have to mod our stuff! My perfectly functioning Wii lasted maybe 1/2 hour before it was pulled apart and modded.

 

[hans030390]

Ok, I bought all of the parts I should need. I still have one question. The layout you posted (RaiderJ, the one that went mobo, screw, washer, etc), was that just for the GPU? I'm planning on doing it for both the CPU and GPU. Is there any difference between the amount of washers I would need to put on either side for the CPU and GPU?

RBJTech's guide said the CPU heatsink only has one washer under it, while the GPU has two. Is this true? Or is it the same layout for both?

 

[RaiderJ]

I don't remember if the CPU needs a different amount of washers, but it would be easy to check. I myself didn't do the CPU heatsink, as it doesn't get nearly as hot and therefore it works fine the way it is. Wouldn't be bad to replace the thermal paste and extend the fan shroud on it however.

 

[hans030390]

Originally posted by: RaiderJ
I don't remember if the CPU needs a different amount of washers, but it would be easy to check. I myself didn't do the CPU heatsink, as it doesn't get nearly as hot and therefore it works fine the way it is. Wouldn't be bad to replace the thermal paste and extend the fan shroud on it however.

Ah, I see. I still plan on doing it anyways, however. How would I check to see if it's any different?

 

[RaiderJ]

When you pull the xclamp off, you should be able to see what part of it is between the heatsink and the surface of the motherboard. Just compare that part to a couple washers and see if it matches up.

 

[hans030390]

Originally posted by: RaiderJ
When you pull the xclamp off, you should be able to see what part of it is between the heatsink and the surface of the motherboard. Just compare that part to a couple washers and see if it matches up.

Ok, thanks. I'll do that. I'm also asking on the xbox scene forums to see what others have to say.

 

[bob4432]

Originally posted by: hans030390
Ok, I bought all of the parts I should need. I still have one question. The layout you posted (RaiderJ, the one that went mobo, screw, washer, etc), was that just for the GPU? I'm planning on doing it for both the CPU and GPU. Is there any difference between the amount of washers I would need to put on either side for the CPU and GPU?

RBJTech's guide said the CPU heatsink only has one washer under it, while the GPU has two. Is this true? Or is it the same layout for both?

i used 2 washers under each area for both cpu and gpu. AS5 contact patch looks good. and these were the washer from lowes which are 1mm each according to my caliper.

 

[RaiderJ]

Another option if you want to be sure you have the right parts is to spend $15 and have everything shipped to you. I did this (more of an experiment), and the "kit" they send you works great.

I wouldn't buy another, as I'd just go to the store. Depending on your situation, however, paying $15 to have everything shipped to your door isn't bad. Saves you a trip and potentially getting the wrong items.

 

[hans030390]

Ok, so I got the 360 in today. Someone had already tried the x clamp fix on it, and the guy sold it to me as a RROD system. I haven't checked it (No power cord) yet to confirm it, however.

Should I just go ahead and try to redo the fix? I'm wondering if there's something different/extra I should do considering someone has already tried it.

Maybe they just did it wrong.

 

[RaiderJ]

Just make sure you have the proper parts for the clamp replacement and give it a go. No way to tell what all they did previously. If it is still getting the RRoD, then it's probably fixable.

 

[hans030390]

Originally posted by: RaiderJ
Just make sure you have the proper parts for the clamp replacement and give it a go. No way to tell what all they did previously. If it is still getting the RRoD, then it's probably fixable.

Perhaps they didn't get it on the first few tries and gave up?

I'm doing it all tomorrow...didn't have the power supply tonight.