Need help with choosing parts for my new build

[JonFX01]

This is what I've come up with so far:

MB: GIGABYTE Z170-HD3P
(€123)
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K
(€265)
CPU COOLER: SCYTHE Ninja 3 Rev. B
(€43)
RAM: undecided, either
2x Kingston 8GB DDR4 2666MHz CL15 HyperX Fury Black Series
(€115)
GPU: Old GPU for now, high-end 14/16nm Nvidia or AMD GPU next year
HDD: Toshiba 3.5" 3TB SATA DT01ACA30
(€92)
Case: Thermaltake VM30001W2Z V4
(€38)
PSU: Zalman ZM600-LX
(€55)
Monitor: Philips 273V5QHAB/00
(€202)

=€929

Intended use: gaming, CAD, internet browsing, video and image editing.

No SSD yet because I need at least 1TB and those are still too expensive.
The CPU stays. As for everything else, I'm all ears. So would you replace something here? And which RAM option of the two is better?

 

[Chaosblade02]

Do you plan on overclocking that K model CPU? If not then you don't need a K model. If so, then you'll need an aftermarket CPU cooler. A cooler master hyper 212+ evo is the best aftermarket CPU cooler at the lower end. Considerably better than a stock cooler. I'm not sure what they run for in Euros, but in US dollars, they're about $25-$30. I doubt that would break your budget. For a little better performance on the cooler, you can buy another fan and have one fan pull air through the radiator while the other pushes air out, etc a push/pull setup. Fans aren't too expensive.

 

[Ketchup]

We have been seeing that the faster DDR4 makes a noticeable difference, especially when running integrated video. You mentioned "old" card for now. Depending on how old, you may be satisfied with the integrated video.

And I know you are holding out for a larger SSD, but I would recommend you go ahead and get an SSD you can afford, and a fast hard drive, like a WD Black, for the extra space you need. SSDs are great for the OS and apps you use on a daily basis (and when I say great, I mean GREAT), but a good hard drive will suffice for programs you don't use every day, and other data (app files, pics, videos, etc).

 

[eton975]

Change that PSU to something decent.

 

[Ketchup]

Change that PSU to something decent.

Good catch, missed that one.

Hint: anything drastically cheaper than good brands (Antec, Corsair, Cooler Master, etc) is going to bite you.

 

[eton975]

Good catch, missed that one.

Hint: anything drastically cheaper than good brands (Antec, Corsair, Cooler Master, etc) is going to bite you.

Still gotta watch out for relatively shitty PSUs from 'good' brands coasting on their reputation though. eg. the original Corsair RM series and the CoolerMaster GXs.

 

[JonFX01]

Hello again and thanks for your replies!

Do you plan on overclocking that K model CPU? If not then you don't need a K model. If so, then you'll need an aftermarket CPU cooler. A cooler master hyper 212+ evo is the best aftermarket CPU cooler at the lower end. Considerably better than a stock cooler. I'm not sure what they run for in Euros, but in US dollars, they're about $25-$30. I doubt that would break your budget. For a little better performance on the cooler, you can buy another fan and have one fan pull air through the radiator while the other pushes air out, etc a push/pull setup. Fans aren't too expensive.

I did not forget, I just forgot to list it. For the same money, I can have the SCYTHE Katana 4 or the Zalman CNPS10X Performa, both of which performed better than the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ EVO in the tests I read.

I will overclock the CPU as soon as its warranty period is over. Is the mobo good for overclocking?

We have been seeing that the faster DDR4 makes a noticeable difference, especially when running integrated video.

Seeing how crappy the Skylake desktop iGPU's are, I don't intend to use one.

You mentioned "old" card for now. Depending on how old, you may be satisfied with the integrated video.

Radeon HD6850

And I know you are holding out for a larger SSD, but I would recommend you go ahead and get an SSD you can afford, and a fast hard drive, like a WD Black, for the extra space you need. SSDs are great for the OS and apps you use on a daily basis (and when I say great, I mean GREAT), but a good hard drive will suffice for programs you don't use every day, and other data (app files, pics, videos, etc).

I will consider a SSD depening on how the system performs.

Change that PSU to something decent.

Good catch, missed that one.

Hint: anything drastically cheaper than good brands (Antec, Corsair, Cooler Master, etc) is going to bite you.

It's a budget build. I've always used the cheapest PSUs I could find, never had a problem. This is why I don't believe in the overglorification of the expensive ones.
I will admit the linkedin page of this one is a bit funny, though.

 

[VirtualLarry]

It's a budget build. I've always used the cheapest PSUs I could find, never had a problem. This is why I don't believe in the overglorification of the expensive ones.

Ehh, suit yourself, I guess. But those of us with more experience, have learned the hard way about cheap PSUs. (I used to think the same as you, more or less, and decided to roll the dice with a PSU that came in a Xion ATX case. Well, it failed while testing, and damaged the mobo and killed the SSD.)

I'm tempting fate again (perhaps, perhaps not) by building some A4-6300 APU builds, with SSDs, in cases (Apex / Allied / SuperCase) with 300W PSUs included. One thing that I've noticed, though, is that the Apex cases with PSU included, at Newegg, have surprisingly decent reviews, compared to, say, Logisys or Raidmax cases w/PSUs.

I wouldn't skimp on a PSU, in a build that uses a discrete GPU, though. They tend to draw quite a bit more power than builds with just an IGP and an SSD, like mine, and therefore are much more likely to burn out / burn up a "cheap" PSU.

 

[eton975]

Ehh, suit yourself, I guess. But those of us with more experience, have learned the hard way about cheap PSUs. (I used to think the same as you, more or less, and decided to roll the dice with a PSU that came in a Xion ATX case. Well, it failed while testing, and damaged the mobo and killed the SSD.)

I'm tempting fate again (perhaps, perhaps not) by building some A4-6300 APU builds, with SSDs, in cases (Apex / Allied / SuperCase) with 300W PSUs included. One thing that I've noticed, though, is that the Apex cases with PSU included, at Newegg, have surprisingly decent reviews, compared to, say, Logisys or Raidmax cases w/PSUs.

I wouldn't skimp on a PSU, in a build that uses a discrete GPU, though. They tend to draw quite a bit more power than builds with just an IGP and an SSD, like mine, and therefore are much more likely to burn out / burn up a "cheap" PSU.

^^THIS.

There's a reason we recommend quality PSUs rather than case bundles. Low ripple meaning way less stress on Mobo/graphics card/HDD VRMs, good voltage regulation, power surge protection, etc.

I bet it's because MOST people go with relatively low-power builds, so the case mofos think, 'ah well, I'll take this generic unit from this unknown manufacturer, slap 400W!!!!!!! on it, and call it a day. I bet most people that buy this case bundle ain't gonna stress it out...'

But watch what happens when a real gutless wonder actually gets taxed...

You wouldn't want something like THAT anywhere near your PC parts would you? You have no idea what could be inside that case-bundled PSU... *shudder*

 

[VirtualLarry]

^^THIS.

There's a reason we recommend quality PSUs rather than case bundles. Low ripple meaning way less stress on Mobo/graphics card/HDD VRMs, good voltage regulation, power surge protection, etc.

I bet it's because MOST people go with relatively low-power builds, so the case mofos think, 'ah well, I'll take this generic unit from this unknown manufacturer, slap 400W!!!!!!! on it, and call it a day. I bet most people that buy this case bundle ain't gonna stress it out...'

But watch what happens when a real gutless wonder actually gets taxed...

The takeaway from that review:

Either this unit is being overrated by Coolmax or by their OEM. It's an acceptable quality 400 watt unit. It is NOT a 500 watt unit in any way.

How long do I figure this unit would hold up for you? Keep it below 400 watts, keep it cool, and you're looking at probably a good three years or more. 500 watts? A day if you're lucky.

So even overrated PSUs can last quite a while... as long as you don't actually put much of a load on them.

 

[eton975]

The takeaway from that review:



So even overrated PSUs can last quite a while... as long as you don't actually put much of a load on them.

You could end up with stuff like this tho...

 

[dave_the_nerd]

You could end up with stuff like this tho...

Entertaining read, thanks for posting it.

Heheh. "Sparky."

 

[JonFX01]

OK, point taken.

How powerful should the PSU be for this build anyway?

And what do you think of the CPU+mobo+memory setup?

Would you consider waiting for Skylake Xeons as a cheap way to get a quad-core with HT?

 

[MongGrel]

It's a budget build. I've always used the cheapest PSUs I could find, never had a problem.

Just don't.

 

[MongGrel]

A good 600W would probably cover it easily.

Just don't go cheap.

You could always get a good small Crucial BX-100 or similar SSD just for the OS, and stick a decent WD Black or something in for storage.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148945

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148944

 

[JonFX01]

Are these good enough?

CoolerMaster RS600-ACAB-M4 - €44,04
Coolermaster Thunder 600W - €44,04
CoolerMaster RS600-ACABM4-WB - €46,20
Zalman ZM600-GSII - €46,63
Zalman ZM600-LX - €47,33

 

[Ketchup]

Are these good enough?

CoolerMaster RS600-ACAB-M4 - €44,04
Coolermaster Thunder 600W - €44,04
CoolerMaster RS600-ACABM4-WB - €46,20
Zalman ZM600-GSII - €46,63
Zalman ZM600-LX - €47,33

All would be fine for now. If you plan on upgrading to a better GPU later (and only one), go at least 100 watts over what the manufacturer suggests, in which case 600 would be enough.

 

[eton975]

All would be fine for now. If you plan on upgrading to a better GPU later (and only one), go at least 100 watts over what the manufacturer suggests, in which case 600 would be enough.

Ehh... Those are still pretty low tier... would go for at least an EVGA 500B/600B as the minimum.

If I HAD to pick a PSU out of those, it'd be the ZM600-LX, because people on youtube have tested it.

But is it possible to stretch the budget a little more and get something like this?

 

[Ketchup]

Ehh... Those are still pretty low tier... would go for at least an EVGA 500B/600B as the minimum.

If I HAD to pick a PSU out of those, it'd be the ZM600-LX, because people on youtube have tested it.

But is it possible to stretch the budget a little more and get something like this?

The 80+ are more efficient, but not necessary, to define a good power supply.

 

[JonFX01]

Ehh... Those are still pretty low tier... would go for at least an EVGA 500B/600B as the minimum.

If I HAD to pick a PSU out of those, it'd be the ZM600-LX, because people on youtube have tested it.

But is it possible to stretch the budget a little more and get something like this?

But 500W won't be enough for a high-end GPU, will it?

Not sure about the case either. What are the advantages of a bottom mounted PSU? For a little more, I can have the Zalman Z1 Midi Tower or the Thermaltake VL80001W2ZD V3 Black Edition which I like a lot because it has holes everywhere for better air flow.

 

[westom]

How powerful should the PSU be for this build anyway?

Most computer consume mostly closer to 100 watts. And only peak at 350 watts. Watts is a mostly useless number. Some supplies are even at less strain when near highest load. Greatest strain can even be a 700 watts supply only providing 350 watts. But since that strain is completely irrelevant, then myths live on. Only speculation automatically assume watts are relevant and what causes maximum strain is destructive. Even high ripple voltage does not harm hardware. But myths live on.

Since most who recommend supplies do not know what is relevent, then computer assemblers are told to get a 700 watt supply for their maximum 350 watt computer. Tier is another vague and ballpark number for computer assemblers to recommend what is otherwise not understood. If your computer is consuming anywhere near to 700 watts, then it can also toast bread. Since most only understand watts, then they are told to get a supply that is double what is really needed.

Relevant is current for each DC voltage. Most have no idea what numbers are relevant and do not know how to measure that. So we tell computer assemblers to buy a supply that is double what a computer really needs.

Top or bottom mounted makes little different. Relevant is an airflow across the system that is too gentle to even feel. Only one 60 mm fan is sufficient. Cables located / routed to not block that tiniest airflow across the chassis. Then the computer should be pigs-heaven happy even in a 100 degree F room - a normal temperature for computers.

A good supply will come with a long list of specifications. Few to no one who recommend a PSU understand those numbers. But a PSU manufacturer can lie everywhere except in those spec numbers. Those spec numbers are withheld in many supplies that are missing required functions such as AC line filters, power factor correction, and circuit that make motherboard and disk damage from a failed power supply impossible.

A supply that comes with a chassis typically has no spec numbers. That says much.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

But 500W won't be enough for a high-end GPU, will it?

The highest-end GPUs only eat ~300w in a worst-case scenario. Maaaaaybe 350w. Those PSU recommendations come from the GPU vendor because 1) they don't know what else you have in your system, 2) overclocking components can quickly consume a LOT more power than they're rated for, 3) they are assuming you might have a cheap PSU that can only supply half its labelled wattage before it lights itself on fire.

So, somebody with a stock i5, a single SSD, and that's it? If they have a good 500w PSU, they can basically drop in any GPU they'd like. ~80% load is the "happy zone" for most PSUs in terms of efficiency, so loading a 500w PSU at 400w is great.

But somebody with a lousy 1000-but-really-only-600w) PSU, a heavily overclocked AMD FX CPU (You can get those up above 200w) with a watercooling rig and 6 hard drives? They're risking fireworks if they install that same 300w GPU.

So, those recommendations are very conservative (I'd say they're complete BS, but they protect people from breaking their computers, so there is a purpose), and it's really very context-sensitive.

 

[Ketchup]

What are the advantages of a bottom mounted PSU?

Bottom-mount is great for a PSU. It keeps it from absorbing heat from the hot equipment in the case, so it greatly-extending the life of the unit, and keeps it quieter due to the temperature-driven fan controller.

 

[MongGrel]

http://www.jonnyguru.com/index.php

OklahomaWolf seems to like this one, but I'd have to look at the list.

I used to gab with him now and then.

He gave this one all 10's.

Must be good not sure have seen that much before, but haven't looked at the page in awhile.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=440

$75 with a rebate atm.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ption=+EVGA+Supernova+G2+550W&N=-1&isNodeId=1

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...yMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo

 

[JonFX01]

So I updated the components a bit based on your advice, guys. Unfortunately, I can't get that Zalman ZM600-LX for the price I listed above where I'm shopping. It costs €55 and that puts right next to the Corsair VS550, Fortron Hyper 600 and Fractal Design Design Essence 600W. These are my options if 550W is the limit.

As for the monitor, I was told to get something more reputable (like an ASUS monitor in that price range), but why get a TN panel when I can have this AMVA? Btw. this is the cheapest AMVA monitor available afaik:
http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?slg=en&scy=gb&ctn=273V5QHAB/00
Surely, it can't be bad, right?