Need help with a case mod

[blackrain]

I originally posted here:

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview...adid=1892082&STARTPAGE=2&enterthread=y

But the original issue has significantly changed. I'm not getting any responses with the latest issue which is related to cases and cooling. I thought perhaps I should move the question into here?

See my last post in the corresponding thread.

 

[GalvanizedYankee]

Your link doesn't really work...Zepper was trying to help you...The comment of Zepper's
you quoted is absolutely right.


...Galvanized

 

[blackrain]

Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
Your link doesn't really work...Zepper was trying to help you...The comment of Zepper's
you quoted is absolutely right.


...Galvanized

Link works fine for me.

I understand that Zepper was trying to help. I have no issue with that. Just wanted confirmation.

So is any psu with a fan a problem, unless I cut out a giant square in the back of the case? Or is it only a psu with a 120mm fan that is the problem?

It seems like getting a decent and reasonably priced power supply into this Dell is going to be impossible without a major mod to the case.

 

[Zepper]

Unless you are willing to cut your case, any PSU with a 120mm fan in the top will be a problem as they need pretty much a fully open back panel for exhaust. What I mean is the area DIRECTLY BEHIND THE PSU needs to be open, not anywhere else on the back of the case. Right now you only have an 80mm fan opening. You can get a nibbling tool at Radio Shlock or from jab-tech.com to cut out the back of your case as needed - not too expensive and it will strengthen your fingers and wrists (trade off hands for balance) .

Note how the back of most generic cases look these days. There is just enough metal there to hold the PSU mounting screws and all the rest is open. That allows you to use any type of PSU - one like you have now or one with a 120mm fan or other arrangement. If you're gonna cut, I suggest that's how you cut. Go to a friend's house who has a generic ATX PC. and trace the back of his PSU opening along with locations of the four PSU mounting screw positions and you'll have a template for your cutting.

All you need to do is find a PSU with an 80mm fan in the rear w/o a switch and you shouldn't need to do any cutting. I thought you had one located at ZZF or some such - didn't that FSP-350-60PLN work out? It looks like the 300W unit next to it has the same picture - or did you already check that ) or is it too weak) The buildtoorderservers link I gave you in the other thread does appear to have a lot of switchless PSUs like yours - check them out.

Another option (as was mentioned in the other thread) is to get a PSU that would otherwise work but for the switch (like the Sparkle at ZZF) and remove the switch. That is easy to do and is easily reversible when/if needed. Just cut the wires off the back of the switch and connect them together with a wire nut. Then push the switch out from the inside out. There are a couple of ears on the switch inside the psu case, just squeeze those against the sides of the switch and it should slide right out.

I have 25+ years experience with PCs, so generally you can rely on what I tell you. If I'm not 100% positive as to my advice, I usually qualify it.

.bh.

 

[blackrain]

Originally posted by: Zepper
All you need to do is find a PSU with an 80mm fan in the rear w/o a switch and you shouldn't need to do any cutting. I thought you had one located at ZZF or some such - didn't that FSP-350-60PLN work out? It looks like the 300W unit next to it has the same picture - or did you already check that ) or is it too weak) The buildtoorderservers link I gave you in the other thread does appear to have a lot of switchless PSUs like yours - check them out.
.bh.

That Sparkle/FSP psu didn't work out. The rep at Zipzoomfly called the warehouse and it turned out that the picture on the website was wrong. The psu had a rocker on/off switch even though its not shown in the picture on the website.

I'm really looking for a $40-50 psu and didn't see anything in that price range on that buildtoorder website.

At this point I only see 2 options
1) cut out the back of the case and get whatever psu I want
2) order a 300W OEM generic psu

Can you tell me more about how that nibbler tool works? Does it make even cuts? What shape is the cut?

I'm assuming this is what we are talking about?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index...ols&kw=nibbler+tools&parentPage=search

Edit:
I found this picture:
http://images.cyberguys.com/images/prod_main/P3434A.jpg

Based on that picture it appears that there is a cutter in the front that is used to clip the metal. So I guess I have to start off at the hole that's already there and work to the side, and then down on both sides. When I get down to the end on the sides, then I have to cut across again to finally cut out a giant square piece from the case, which will be the new hole. Is that basically right?

 

[Zepper]

Yup, it takes little bites out of the metal at a time by squeezing the handle. You should take all the guts out of the computer when cutting and sanding so no metal scraps get in the works. You just draw a line where you want to cut, cut out to the line from an existing hole and just follow your line with the side of the cutter head. When done, sand the edge smooth, wipe out the case with a tack cloth cover the bare edge of the metal with some Rustoleum (or similar) primer. Let that dry, put the guts back in and yer in bidness.
Hell, I didn't know that RS was selling them for $4. I'll have to look to see if they are doing the same at my store. Just a few months ago they were still selling them for $12...

.bh.

 

[blackrain]

I wish I had the time to do all of that. I'll think about it.

In the meantime, what do you think about hipro?

http://www.compumusic.com/Store/Forms/Item/Details.aspx?product=35346

 

[Zepper]

Hipro is a notch or two below Fortron, ChannelWell, Enhance, Enermax etc. Here is a good candidate for you: http://www.ewiz.com/detail.php?name=PS-E1136FA# - you'll just need to cut out enough to fit around the switch. I would suggest at least covering the bare metal edge with something to prevent rusting (unless it turns out to be aluminum), even clear nail polish would be better than nothing - I use the small bottles of Testor's model paint here.

If you are very careful when nibbling and make sure to account for each little piece of metal, you wouldn't have to remove the guts - though it's still recommended.

.bh.

 

[blackrain]

The Hipro may be an issue anyway because on other websites it is shown with a switch. This is a real issue...one website shows a switch and another doesn't.

I don't see a switch on the Enhance psu. I only see two plugs. What's the deal with the two plugs? Anyway, neither of the plugs is aligned with the hole that's currently in the back of the case, so i'll have to cut anyway.

Regarding the cutting, why are there metal pieces to worry about? I thought the cutting would just cut out a giant rectangular metal piece corresponding to the new opening?

Per this review, which I mentioned in my previous post, the chassis is steel.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article21-page1.html

As far as the anti-rust stuff, is that mostly sprays that you are suggesting? Another reason why I would probably need to take all of the components out?

Now I understand why PC Power and Cooling sells their 400W replacement/upgrade psu for $119. I'll give it some thought but due to a lack of time, i'll probably just save up for a few months and buy the PC Power and Cooling model then

 

[Zepper]

Each nibble is a small piece of metal about 1/8" by the width of the nibbler head - it would be nice if it could do it in a long strip. Of course, you could try a big pair of sheet-metal shears. If the metal isn't too thick, that would work if you could get it started thru the holes that are already there.

If it looks like two AC sockets, one male one female, then the other is to hook the monitor to. They used to do that a lot back in the days of 12-14" monochrome monitors. When color CRT monitors came in, the practice ended because they had a pretty high inrush current too. Now with the LCD monitors only sipping the power, the concept becomes practical again.

.bh.