NEED ANSWER QUICK!: 240 electrical issue!

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
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I bought a cooktop, it has three wire, black, red, and ground. The wall has four wires, black red, white, and ground. How do I wire them?

 

Ornery

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
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There's supposed to be a plug on the cooktop, and outlet on the wall. Where are they?
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Originally posted by: Ornery
There's supposed to be a plug on the cooktop, and outlet on the wall. Where are they?

Never seen it like that, but I've only install 3-4 ranges/cooktops. They have always been bare wire.
 

Pliablemoose

Lifer
Oct 11, 1999
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Originally posted by: Ornery
There's supposed to be a plug on the cooktop, and outlet on the wall. Where are they?

I believe it's against code to use a plug most places...

 

Ornery

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
20,022
17
81
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Do I just run the ground and nuetral on the same wire?

That's exactly why there should be a plug. The manufacturer would tie that together in the unit. I just read where new code requires a four bladed plug and outlet.

WTF, the wire just disappears into the wall with no box? :confused:
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Originally posted by: Ornery
WTF, the wire just disappears into the wall with no box? :confused:

There is an electrical box with conduit on it's faceplate, I feed the wire through the conduit into the box.
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Wait, I'm an idiot, I dont need 120V since this range doesnt have a clock, the old one had a downdraft blower, which needed 120V.
 

Ornery

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
20,022
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Why not feed a ground wire from the box, through the armored cable (that's what's going to the cooktop, right?) to a good ground point in the cooktop? Maybe use the armored cable itself?
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
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I capped the white and matched the rest up. The white is necessary if I were to need 120 on the cooktop, but i don't. This is why it didn't come with one, but the old one did, it needed 120.
 

Eli

Super Moderator | Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
50,419
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Originally posted by: Pliablemoose
Originally posted by: Ornery
There's supposed to be a plug on the cooktop, and outlet on the wall. Where are they?

I believe it's against code to use a plug most places...
Huh?!?!?!?!

LOL
 

*kjm

Platinum Member
Oct 11, 1999
2,222
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"I capped the white and matched the rest up. The white is necessary if I were to need 120 on the cooktop, but i don't. This is why it didn't come with one, but the old one did, it needed 120. "


You are right with this statment. Enjoy the new stove!
 

Ornery

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
20,022
17
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Correct whatever is wrong with the following:
  • Black = Hot 110VAC (1st leg of 220VAC)
    Red = Hot 110VAC (2nd leg of 220VAC)
    White = Neutral leg of 220VAC
    Ground = Safety return leg of 220VAC
 

*kjm

Platinum Member
Oct 11, 1999
2,222
6
81
Your right also.... but from black to white=110V or from red to white=110V.
 

drnickriviera

Platinum Member
Jan 30, 2001
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I would have gone black/black, red/ red, bare copper/white. The 4th wire is for a chassis ground on the stove, find a screw on the stove and connect it to that
 

*kjm

Platinum Member
Oct 11, 1999
2,222
6
81
No he is using the ground as a ground wire. You only need the neutral if you are going to pull 110Vac off a 220Vac run. If you look at any 3 prong 220V tool for example a tablesaw they would be ran with red, black and green because they don't have a need for 110V.

All said and done they(ground and neutral) are tied together back at the box.
 

Ornery

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
20,022
17
81
Oh, I assumed it wouldn't even work without the neutral leg, but I do know they're joined at the bus bar in the breaker box.
 

grrl

Diamond Member
Jun 21, 2001
6,204
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Originally posted by: Eli
Originally posted by: Pliablemoose
Originally posted by: Ornery
There's supposed to be a plug on the cooktop, and outlet on the wall. Where are they?

I believe it's against code to use a plug most places...
Huh?!?!?!?!

LOL


You're probably right, but I remember doing refrigeration jobs where the compressors had to be hardwired. May have been local code, or more likely just spec'ed that way by some engineer.